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travels for friends, food and wine - in exactly this order
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Tori Chataro remains one of Tokyo’s most compelling yakitori destinations, and this meal reaffirmed why it sits comfortably at the very top of its category. Tucked away in Shibuya’s Uguisudanicho, the restaurant offers a counter-only experience that feels closer to a meat omakase than a traditional yakitori-ya. The pace is generous, the portions... More
Tori Chataro remains one of Tokyo’s most compelling yakitori destinations, and this meal reaffirmed why it sits comfortably at the very top of its category. Tucked away in Shibuya’s Uguisudanicho, the restaurant offers a counter-only experience that feels closer to a meat omakase than a traditional yakitori-ya. The pace is generous, the portions are substantial, yet the entire progression remains remarkably balanced and refined.
At the helm is Chef Takuya Kaneko, a craftsman whose approach combines deep technical control with an almost obsessive respect for ingredients. Kaneko-san’s grilling is precise but never rigid; there is confidence in how each skewer is cooked, rested, and served. He reads the chicken, the heat, and the moment with ease, adjusting on the fly while maintaining a calm, almost understated rhythm behind the grill.
A defining feature of Tori Chataro is the range of chickens used, clearly displayed on the wooden boards above the counter. On this evening, multiple premium breeds were in play, each chosen for specific parts and applications. Hinai Jidori delivered deep umami and structure, Nagoya Cochin brought richness and fat where needed, and firmer, more muscular birds such as Shamo added intensity and bite. This multi-breed approach allows Kaneko-san to match cut to character, rather than forcing one bird to do everything.
The meal itself was abundant yet never heavy, a rare balance. There was a sense that the kitchen wanted to give generously, but only because every skewer earned its place. One of the most memorable moments was the thymus (タイム / taimu)—often misunderstood or mishandled elsewhere. Here it had a distinct bite and a deep, almost mineral flavor, showcasing both texture and intensity without tipping into toughness. It was thoughtful, confident cooking.
Equally outstanding was the liver, which stood out as one of the best examples in recent memory. Cooked with extraordinary precision, it was silky and rich, almost foie gras–like in texture, with none of the bitterness or graininess that so often plagues this cut. It was indulgent, refined, and deeply satisfying.
Overall, this was an exceptional meal: generous, focused, and executed at a very high level. Tori Chataro succeeds not by chasing novelty, but by mastering fundamentals and pushing them quietly to their limits. It is yakitori for those who care deeply about product, technique, and intent—and a place that continues to justify its reputation with every skewer. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Lunch at Numata at Numata
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Lunch at Mingles at Mingles
Mingles has long stood as one of the clearest expressions of modern Korean cuisine, not because it chases novelty, but because it understands identity. The restaurant operates at the intersection of tradition and contemporary technique, using Korean flavors as a foundation rather than something to be diluted or disguised. The result is food that feels... More
Mingles has long stood as one of the clearest expressions of modern Korean cuisine, not because it chases novelty, but because it understands identity. The restaurant operates at the intersection of tradition and contemporary technique, using Korean flavors as a foundation rather than something to be diluted or disguised. The result is food that feels deeply Korean in soul, yet international in execution and polish.
At the center of this vision is Chef Kang Mingoo. His cooking is thoughtful, precise, and quietly confident. Rather than relying on provocation or spectacle, he builds dishes through balance and layering — acidity against umami, fermentation against freshness, comfort against finesse. There is a strong sense of restraint throughout the menu; nothing feels forced, and nothing exists purely to impress. Each dish feels considered, as if it has been edited down to its most honest form.
An important influence on Chef Kang’s philosophy comes from his time training under Martín Berasategui. Kang has often spoken of his admiration for Martín, not just for his technical mastery, but for the spirit of generosity, consistency, and emotional clarity that defines Berasategui’s restaurants. Today, Kang describes Mingles as striving to emulate that same spirit — a place where excellence is delivered with warmth, depth, and a sense of continuity rather than ego.
This influence is evident in the structure of the meal and the precision of execution. Western techniques appear as quiet tools — in sauces, textures, and sequencing — but never overshadow the core identity of the food. Korean ingredients and seasonings such as doenjang, gochujang, jeotgal, grains, and seafood are treated with deep respect, refined without being sanitized, and allowed to express both intensity and subtlety.
Mingles is also a restaurant that rewards attention. Flavors unfold gradually, temperatures are carefully calibrated, and many dishes gain resonance in retrospect. It is not a place built on immediate shock, but on memory and reflection.
In a dining scene filled with ambition, Mingles stands out for its maturity. Guided by a chef who combines Korean heritage with European discipline and a deep admiration for Martín Berasategui’s ethos, Mingles offers a cuisine that is confident, composed, and enduring — a restaurant that knows exactly who it is, and why it exists.
Lunch 20th December 2025:
Horse mackerel · Chamnamul · Kimchi
Unbelievable start. I love blue fish when treated with precision, and this was excellent — pristine texture and beautiful layering of flavor, clean and expressive.
Jeju carrot · Burrata · Sesame oil · Uni
Silky and comforting, with natural sweetness from the carrot balanced by creaminess and marine salinity. Very polished.
Flounder · Caviar “jeotgal” · Perilla
Pure, clean flavors with a distinctly Korean accent. The seasoned caviar added depth without overpowering the fish.
Persimmon · Hanwoo “jamon” · Ginger
Wonderful combination. The acidity and sweetness of the persimmon worked perfectly with the umami of the beef. Fresh, elegant, and very well judged.
Gamtae roll · Geumtae
Playful and aromatic, driven by seaweed flavor and texture. Light, crisp, and very “Mingles” in spirit.
Hanwoo tartare · Eel · Plum gochujang
Another great combination. The richness of the eel paired beautifully with the beef, lifted by the sweet-tart plum gochujang.
Cabbage seon · Pear · Caviar · Omija · Cho-gochujang · Geoduck
Bright and refreshing, with layered acidity and crunch. Complex but very controlled.
Mingles pot
A comforting, seasonal interlude that brings together multiple textures and flavors in one harmonious bowl.
Seasonal grilled fish · Rice porridge elements
Carefully grilled with excellent texture, paired with a gentle, savory rice component that grounded the dish.
Grilled prawn · Tomato rice · Makgeolli bisque
Perfectly cooked prawn — glassy in the middle, warm on the outside. The tomato rice had high acidity and great balance. Excellent.
Chicken roulade · Ginseng-radish mandoo · Perilla
Succulent, slightly spicy, with deeply flavored chicken juices. Comforting yet refined.
Hanwoo & handon
Hanwoo is always top level here — tender, full of umami, and less fatty than wagyu, which I prefer. Excellent expression of the beef.
Sweet bibimbap
A clever and thoughtful transition into dessert, playing with texture and familiarity.
Ice hotteok
Nostalgic flavors reworked with finesse. Warm spice, gentle sweetness, and great contrast.
Jang trio
Bold and intellectual — fermentation used confidently in a dessert context.
Korean sweets
A gentle, elegant finish that stayed true to the identity of the menu.
A deeply satisfying meal from start to finish. Precise, confident cooking with a strong sense of identity. Everything felt composed and mature. Top level — three stars fully deserved.
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Zén at Zén
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Kurumasushi at Kurumasushi
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Saison at Saison
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Outstanding this time:
Kobako
Katsuo
Anago
Iwashi
Uni
Maguro Section
The master in great form.
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Suetomi (末冨) at Suetomi (末冨)
