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Bavel, the acclaimed Middle Eastern restaurant in Los Angeles’ Arts District, is known for its modern yet deeply rooted interpretations of dishes from Israel, Morocco, Turkey, and Egypt. With a lush, open interior and a thoughtful approach to flavor, the restaurant has garnered significant praise, including a James Beard nomination and a Los Angeles Times Best Restaurant of the Year accolade. Our recent visit showcased both the restaurant’s strengths and a few minor missteps.
The meal began with a selection of spreads and small plates. The Baba Ghanoush was a standout, offering a perfect balance of smokiness from the eggplant, subtle sweetness from the kabocha squash, and a rich, tangy depth from sheep’s milk and urfa. The Farm Cheese, paired with black sesame buckwheat toast, was another highlight, with za’atar and olive oil enhancing the fresh, creamy texture. The Chicken Liver Pâté was equally impressive, its velvety richness complemented by a honey pomegranate reduction and the surprising brightness of pickled blueberries. Unfortunately, the Hummus Avocado Tahini fell flat in comparison—it lacked the complexity and depth found in the other spreads, coming across as uninspired.
Moving into the heartier dishes, the Grilled Dates with aged lamb merguez and brown butter were a masterclass in balancing sweetness and spice. The Fried Artichoke & Kohlrabi delivered layers of texture and heat, while the Fried Quail was deeply flavorful, its combination of carob halva, chili oil, and sage za’atar elevating the dish to one of the meal’s best.
For mains, the Pomegranate Glazed Oxtail was exceptional. The meat slid effortlessly off the bone, its richness enhanced by cinnamon, fried shallots, and koshari rice. The Whole Lumina Lamb Rack, however, was a disappointment. Served rare, it had an unappealing texture and an odd bitterness that detracted from the dish’s potential.
Bavel’s strengths lie in its bold flavors, inventive pairings, and meticulous technique. While a few dishes missed the mark, the overall experience reaffirmed why this restaurant remains one of LA’s most celebrated Middle Eastern dining destinations.
6 / 10
