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Dinner at Mei-San’s counter felt like witnessing a chef entering a new and very confident phase of her career. The technical foundations were always there, but what stood out this time was refinement, restraint, and a stronger sense of personal identity. The meal had a calm confidence throughout, never relying on excess or theatrics, but instead focusing on precision, balance, and emotion.
One of the most noticeable developments was the size and structure of the nigiri. The pieces have become smaller, more delicate, and more elegant, allowing the neta and shari to integrate more naturally in a single bite. This lighter touch gave the entire progression a wonderful rhythm. Rather than overwhelming the palate with richness, Mei-San built layers of nuance and subtlety course after course.
There is now also a distinctly feminine touch to her sushi that makes the experience feel deeply personal and separates her from many others in Tokyo today. The flavors are softer and more graceful, yet still very expressive. Nothing feels forced. Every piece seems designed to create harmony rather than impact alone.
The botan shrimp was outstanding, carrying deep sweetness while remaining incredibly clean. The series of tuna was beautifully judged, especially the medium fatty tuna, which had excellent texture and clarity without becoming heavy. The kohada showed remarkable balance, with acidity integrated carefully rather than dominating the fish. Even richer pieces such as the sea urchin and minced tuna ohagi retained elegance and precision.
The meal also had excellent pacing. Mei-San understands when to build intensity and when to pull back, giving the dinner a very natural flow. The smaller nigiri style contributes enormously to this, making it possible to appreciate the details of seasoning, temperature, and texture without fatigue.
What impressed me most is that Mei-San no longer feels like she is following an established Tokyo style. Her counter now has its own voice. In a city filled with technically excellent sushi chefs, individuality is increasingly rare. Mei-San’s evolution toward a more delicate, graceful, and highly personal expression of sushi is what makes this meal so memorable.
8 / 10
