Dinner at Restaurant ES:SENZ

Dinner at Restaurant ES:SENZ

at ES:SENZ on 23 August 2024
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Atelier Es:Senz is a fine dining restaurant located at the Das Achental Resort in Grassau, Germany. Since its opening in 2021, Es:Senz has gained significant recognition under the leadership of Edip Sigl, its head chef. The restaurant has become known for its innovative cuisine and exceptional dining experience, earning multiple prestigious awards, including three Michelin stars in 2024.

Es:Senz was established as part of the luxurious Das Achental Resort, nestled in the scenic Chiemgau region of Bavaria. The name "Es:Senz" is derived from the initials of Edip Sigl, reflecting the personal connection and creativity he brings to the restaurant. Sigl, a German-Turkish chef, was born in Turkey and raised in Cologne. He trained at renowned establishments like Gut Lärchenhof and worked under celebrated chefs such as Juan Amador before taking the helm at Es:Senz in 2021.

Before his current role, Edip Sigl made a significant impact at Les Deux in Munich. He joined Les Deux in 2013 and was promoted to head chef in 2019. During his tenure, the restaurant achieved and maintained its two Michelin stars, further establishing Sigl’s reputation as a leading chef in Germany. His success at Les Deux paved the way for the remarkable achievements he would later accomplish at Es:Senz.

Edip Sigl's culinary prowess has been widely recognized. He was named "Chef of the Year 2023" by The Great Restaurant & Hotel Guide and has received numerous other accolades for his innovative approach to cuisine. Sigl's cooking is deeply influenced by the local Bavarian landscape, with a focus on sourcing ingredients from the Chiemgau region. His dishes are known for their sophisticated yet straightforward flavors, often enhanced by complex sauces and essences.

In an impressively short time, Es:Senz has been awarded two Michelin stars in 2022 and 2023, followed by the coveted third Michelin star in 2024. The restaurant is also highly rated by other prestigious guides, such as the Falstaff Restaurant Guide, where it received an "excellent" rating. Additionally, the restaurant's sommelier, Iiro Lutter, and its patissière, Desiree Nieder, have also received significant accolades for their contributions.

Es:Senz offers a unique and immersive dining experience that stands out in the German culinary scene. The restaurant specializes in multi-course tasting menus that showcase the finest regional ingredients, transformed into dishes that blend traditional Bavarian elements with modern techniques. The menu is known for its precision and balance, with highlights like Chiemsee whitefish with a tomato-Kombucha base and saddle of venison with raisin sauce. The dining experience is further enhanced by creative touches like the use of Szechuan buttons as palate cleansers, adding a surprising twist to the meal.

During a recent visit, the meal began with a series of appetizers, each one a small yet thoughtful creation. The APERO es:senz dishes, such as "Die Wolke" with its intriguing combination of vinegar, Wurzelspeck, and breadcrumbs, set the stage nicely, delivering a slightly salty but satisfying taste. "Mon Cherrie" was a standout, with the duck liver and Perigord truffle offering just the right amount of richness without overpowering the palate. However, not every dish was flawless. The Tartelette with shrimp, finger lime, and herbs felt a bit underwhelming, lacking the excitement I anticipated. In contrast, the Macaron with Renke, fennel, and sour cream was a delightful bite, showcasing a perfect balance of flavors. The Tomate dish with homemade cream cheese and chardonnay vinegar was another high note, offering a fresh and vibrant taste.

The Amuse Bouche course truly impressed, particularly the Bachforelle—a delicate combination of jelly with a hint of sweetness, balanced by the umami of chicken breast, caviar, and truffle. The Brathähnchen was another strong contender, with its intense soup and the luxurious texture of chicken fat melting into a broth enriched with celeriac.

As the meal progressed into the main courses, the culinary journey became even more exciting. The Gelbschwanzmakrele was a well-composed dish, though the ponzu could have used a touch more acidity. However, it is important to note that a dish with yellowtail mackerel has become unfortunately too common. I wish chefs would stop producing this dish. In Europe, the quality of this dish never reaches the level of Japanese standards, and it is getting rather boring. The Langostino stood out as one of the best dishes of the evening, with perfectly cooked langoustine, a delightfully crispy chicken skin, and a subtle yet impactful wasabi beurre blanc.

The Wildfang Steinbutt was a masterclass in texture and flavor, with grilled turbot that was both firm and tender, accompanied by contrasting tomato sauces that played beautifully off each other. The refreshing interlude of the Sezhuan Bud and lemon granite was an unexpected and delightful palate cleanser, both strong and unusual in its impact.

The Poltinger Lamm was perhaps the highlight of the meal, featuring lamb that was extraordinarily tender and flavorful. The rendered fat was crispy and packed with umami, complemented by a salad of lamb tongue that added depth to the dish. This was undoubtedly one of the finest lamb dishes I’ve had the pleasure of tasting.

The meal concluded with a series of desserts that were both creative and satisfying. The Ziegenkäse with apricot, olive, and aged balsamic was well-balanced, with the vinaigrette and accompanying garlic bread adding layers of flavor. The Safraneis and Früchte desserts provided a refreshing and sweet ending to the meal, with the final Petit Four selection rounding off the experience with finesse.

Es:Senz is distinct for its dedication to local ingredients and its innovative interpretation of Bavarian cuisine. The restaurant’s commitment to excellence is reflected not just in the quality of the food, but in the comprehensive dining experience it offers, from the setting at the luxurious Das Achental Resort to the personalized service. This, combined with its rapid ascent to three Michelin stars, places Es:Senz among the top dining establishments not only in Germany but also on the global stage. For anyone visiting Bavaria, particularly the Chiemgau region, Es:Senz offers a dining experience that blends the best of local tradition with cutting-edge culinary artistry, making it a standout in the world of fine dining.

Modern French
Modern Eruopean
9 / 10