Dinner at Ristorante Quattro Passi

Dinner at Ristorante Quattro Passi

at Quattro Passi on 19 August 2024
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Quattro Passi, located in the picturesque town of Nerano on Italy’s Amalfi Coast, is a dining establishment that embodies the essence of Italian coastal cuisine. Founded in 1984 by Antonio Mellino, the restaurant has a rich history that began over forty years ago. Initially, the Mellino family’s home in Marina del Cantone was known for selling home-raised chicken eggs, a nod to which is seen in the restaurant's recurring egg design element. Later, the family opened a pizzeria, named "Quattro Passi," meaning "four steps," reflecting its proximity to the sea. Although the walk to the sea actually takes about fifteen minutes, the pizzeria quickly gained popularity, attracting long lines of customers. Recognizing this success, Antonio Mellino decided to expand the menu beyond just pizza, introducing a variety of dishes that laid the foundation for what would become a world-class dining destination.

Over the years, Quattro Passi has evolved from a humble pizzeria into a prestigious fine dining restaurant, celebrated for its dedication to fresh, local ingredients and innovative culinary techniques. Antonio Mellino built the restaurant’s reputation by focusing on the rich culinary traditions of the Amalfi Coast while infusing them with his creative vision. Recently, Antonio passed the torch to his grandson, Fabrizio Mellino, who now serves as the head chef. Fabrizio, who trained under his father and gained experience in esteemed kitchens around the world, has continued the family legacy while bringing a fresh, modern perspective to the cuisine. Remarkably, Fabrizio was only 30 years old when his kitchen was awarded three Michelin stars in November of last year, a significant achievement that underscores his talent and dedication.

Fabrizio’s brother, Raffaele Mellino, plays a crucial role as the restaurant’s sommelier. He curates an extensive wine collection that features over 1,000 labels from Italy and beyond, carefully selected to complement the restaurant’s menu. Raffaele’s expertise in wine pairings enhances the overall dining experience, adding another layer of sophistication to Quattro Passi’s offerings.

The restaurant’s accolades include three Michelin stars, solidifying its status as one of the finest dining establishments not only in Italy but also on a global scale. This recognition reflects the exceptional quality, innovation, and comprehensive dining experience that Quattro Passi offers, with Fabrizio and Raffaele Mellino at the helm. The restaurant also enjoys praise from other esteemed culinary guides and organizations, such as Gambero Rosso and L’Espresso, further highlighting its excellence in cuisine, service, and ambiance.

Guests at Quattro Passi frequently commend the restaurant for its idyllic setting, perched above the stunning Amalfi Coast, offering breathtaking views that enhance the dining experience. The menu, which showcases the best of the region’s ingredients—such as fresh seafood and locally grown vegetables—is celebrated for its balance of flavors and artistic presentation. The expansion of the restaurant’s terrace has allowed more diners to enjoy these views, particularly during the warmer months.

Quattro Passi stands out for its farm-to-table philosophy, sourcing ingredients from its own gardens and local producers, ensuring that each dish is fresh and deeply connected to the region’s heritage. The restaurant’s blend of rustic charm and modern elegance creates an inviting atmosphere that, combined with its culinary excellence, makes Quattro Passi a must-visit destination for food lovers from around the world.

The dining experience at Quattro Passi began with an Amuse Bouche that set a refined and inviting tone for the meal. It offered a subtle yet tantalizing introduction to the flavors that would follow, preparing the palate with its delicate balance and thoughtful presentation.

The first course, "My Garden," was a celebration of simplicity and freshness, featuring tomato vegetation water, extra virgin olive oil, and a medley of basil and rocket flowers. This dish encapsulated the essence of a garden in full bloom, with the pure, unadulterated flavors of the ingredients shining through. The tomato water, in particular, provided a light, refreshing base that complemented the aromatic herbs beautifully.

Next was the intriguingly named "Lardo," a dish that played with expectations and textures. Although labeled as "Lardo," it actually featured cuttlefish, which had been transformed into a form reminiscent of thinly sliced bacon. The presentation was as artistic as it was appetizing, with the cuttlefish placed delicately on a plate decorated with floral motifs. The accompanying socca, a chickpea flour pancake popular in Nice, added a delightful, slightly crisp element to the dish, while a cool green soup made with broad beans and aromatic flowers provided a refreshing contrast. The use of spices to enhance the cuttlefish offered a more pronounced flavor profile than the previous course, creating a dish that was both visually stunning and deeply satisfying.

The "Squid Flower" followed, featuring a langoustine tartare topped with Oscietra caviar and green apple water. This dish unfolded its flavors gradually, beginning with a subtle introduction before revealing a complex and intriguing maritime profile. The tartare and caviar created a luxurious texture, while the green apple water contributed a crisp acidity that perfectly highlighted the sea's clean, salty essence. The dish's progression from neutrality to a fully realized oceanic experience was particularly impressive, showcasing the chef’s skill in balancing and layering flavors.

The "Red Mullet Wafer" offered a sophisticated interplay of potatoes, orange, and rosemary. This dish was light yet flavorful, with the citrus notes of the orange and the herbal rosemary complementing the rich taste of the red mullet. The wafer added a delightful crunch, making this dish a memorable highlight.

The extended pasta courses were the heart of the meal, each showcasing Quattro Passi’s mastery of this Italian staple. The "Linguine alla Nerano," with zucchini, basil, and black pepper, was a simple yet deeply satisfying dish, the perfectly al dente pasta allowing the flavors to meld harmoniously. The "Fusilli Pasta" with sea urchin and raw red prawns was an indulgent course, the rich, briny sea urchin balanced by the sweetness of the prawns.

The "Mezza Manica Pasta" combined yellowtail butter, pine nuts, and baby capers water, offering a wonderful combination of flavors that was both rich and subtly tangy. This was followed by a risotto made with pea sprouts and a concept intriguingly described as "the life cycle of vegetables." This risotto stood out for its fresh, high acidity, a perfect palate cleanser before the final savory courses.

The "Gnocco" stuffed with lamb shoulder and accompanied by raw San Marzano tomatoes and mozzarella was a dish of rich, deep flavors. The gnocco itself was pillowy and comforting, the lamb shoulder offering a satisfying, hearty bite, beautifully complemented by the freshness of the tomatoes and the creamy mozzarella.

The "Sea Bass" with wood sorrel and Amalfi lemon sauce was another standout, with the creamy, rich lemon sauce adding a bright, tangy counterpoint to the perfectly cooked fish. The final savory course, veal fillet in white wine sauce, was exceptional, the sauce itself being a masterclass in balance and depth, with herbs on top providing a fragrant finish.

The meal concluded with an elegant dessert and petit fours, both of which provided a sweet, satisfying end to a truly remarkable dining experience. The attention to detail, the progression of flavors, and the impeccable service all contributed to a meal that was as thoughtful as it was delicious, leaving a lasting impression of Quattro Passi’s culinary excellence.

Italian
Mediterranean cuisine
Modern Italian
10 / 10