Il Ristorante Luca Fantin Tokyo

Something magical happens when Italians gather to cook. Delicious food is a given, but it’s the joy of sharing—stories, memories, and several glasses of wine—that makes these meals extraordinary. Such was the scene when @luca.fantin invited Chicco Cerea of 🌟🌟🌟 @davittorioristorante to celebrate @bvlgarilucafantintokyo’s 15th anniversary last month.

Both chefs were in top form. Da Vittorio’s signature Uovo a la uovo dazzled with its layers of apple compote, eggs, potato foam, and caviar. Luca’s chilled spaghetti with golden bottarga shone, as did the grouper with lettuce, white beans, and clams, and the crispy-skinned amadai with zucchini and sea urchin.

The showstopper? A giant pan of paccheri in tomato sauce, served tableside by the chefs
themselves. This enormous pot of luscious pasta epitomized Italian warmth and generosity. And what showmanship! It was surprising, spectacular, and fun – vibes for days and days. Less

Frankly speaking, collaborations can be hit or miss. But when they work, they really work.

I sensed a culinary kinship between @luca.fantin and @amaurybouhours of @lemeuricealainducasse, two chefs whose styles synch so well yet maintain their distinctiveness. Amaury’s punchy, bold dishes provided a deft counterpoint to the subtle finesse of Luca’s cuisine. A bright dish of raw scallops, broccoletti, and vegetable mole with citrus had muscle and verve, followed by diced tuna and beetroot in a scarlet sauce ringed with smoky pimenton oil.

Ravioli filled with fava beans in pecorino broth with housemade lard was a show stopper, while the asparagus-topped risotto flavored with sansai mountain vegetables and hamaguri clams displayed the green exuberance of spring.

There was lightly smoked akamutsu with saffron potato cream and a deeply flavorful pescatora sauce, then Amaury’s brilliant grilled veal, marinated in spices and white miso for two days and served with charred baby gem and green olives in mint sauce. The beautiful dessert of rhubarb and licorice with ginger crumble by @ariitea_rossigno provided a bracingly refreshing finish.

Pairings with @domperignonofficial 2013, Rose, 2008, and P2 2004 made this event extra special.

3 amazing chefs, 4 incredible wines, 1 unforgettable afternoon at @bulgarilucafantintokyo. Less

Why do we love truffles? One of the most compelling theories is that their enchanting, musky fragrance reminds us of, well, ourselves. This pheromone-like allure inspires us to go to crazy lengths in the pursuit of the diamonds of the forest.

Record-breaking heat has resulted in an exceedingly small yield for this time of year, what would normally be peak truffle season. Thankfully, I know a guy who knows a guy. ;)

@luca.fantin just returned from the heart of white truffle country in Piedmont with the mother lode. These precious specimens take center stage in the @bulgarilucafantintokyo truffle menu until late December.

And what a menu it is! An opening bite of matsutake, uni, truffles and a touch of hazelnut oil. Sweet scallops, redolent of the Hokkaido kombu forests from which they were plucked, are the perfect match with cauliflower cream and truffles. And I could eat an entire pot of the ravioli filled with 36-month-old @consorziovaccherosse Parmigiano, afloat in rich chicken consommé. With wonderful wine pairings by @yukio_oya.

Even the sweet courses were given the truffle treatment, generously scattered over Luca’s signature milk dessert and used to finish a dish of persimmon and vanilla ice cream. Such a treat! Less