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Kyoto in Tokyo.
Chef Takao Fujiyama, a truly humble and very hospitable man, is one in the truly impressive lineage of Wakuden. Especially in Kyoto you find around every single corner a shop which was set up by one of its disciples, the most famous one being Ogata.
Chef Fujiyama succeded Ogata-san as head chef, but recently decided to strike out on his own. The increase the challenge he did so not in Kyoto but in Tokyo. He spent lots of time and surely money to select the wood for his small restaurant, he commissioned artists to create unique table ware for his food, no details was left unattended to. He thus created a truly special space which instantaneously transports you from the heart of Ginza into the Gion in Kyoto.
His food is beautifully plated and highly seasonal. The ingredients were of highest quality and the execution flawless. There are some truly great dishes like the torigai (鳥貝 / Japanese cockle) prepared as shabu shabu. His awabi ((鮑 / abalone) served with green and white asparagus in a light dashi soup was perfect. The texture of the awabi cannot get better, soft but still a little chewy.
However somehow the whole meal lacked inspiration. It felt a little robotic and lacked soul. I know this cannot be really put in taste and flavor notes. But at the end of the meal I did not feel compelled to ask for another reservation.
7 / 10
