Dinner at Contrada Bricconi

Dinner at Contrada Bricconi

at Contrada Bricconi on 3 August 2025
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Contrada Bricconi is a remarkable project nestled in the Bergamasque Alps, blending a working farm, a restored hamlet, and one of Italy’s most sincere gastronomic experiences. Founded by a group of young visionaries committed to revitalising mountain life, the estate is both a living farm and a Michelin-starred restaurant. At the helm is Chef Michele Lazzarini, who returned to his native region after formative years alongside Norbert Niederkofler at the three-star St. Hubertus. His food expresses the clarity, discipline, and technical finesse of that experience, but through a language rooted in the land he calls home.
Here, vegetables, meats, and dairy come from just steps away; menus change with the rhythm of the farm. Dining at Contrada Bricconi isn’t just a meal—it’s a glimpse into a complete ecosystem of sustainability, flavour, and culture. The result is a refined, emotionally resonant cuisine, deeply connected to place without ever feeling nostalgic or heavy-handed.

This special menu combined house classics with seasonal novelties, showcasing the range and depth of Lazzarini’s technique. It opened with fresh, acidic notes—apple and sorrel, whitefish lardo, and char ceviche—before moving into deeper flavours. The snail skewer, done yakitori-style, was juicy and glazed with a house-made garum that lent it a rich, umami punch. The rabbit tartare was paired with sabayone in a dish titled simply “Egg & Rabbit,” full of finesse and great texture.

The pasta section—bottoni with rice and lovage, pappardelle with mushrooms and helichrysum, and fusilli with blackberries—showed consistent excellence. Cooked slightly beyond al dente, each was finished with sauces of depth and clarity.

The grilled trout was arguably the highlight: perfectly cooked with a sauce that lifted rather than masked. Desserts, too, impressed—especially one based on sunchokes and black garlic ice cream, likely Pacojet-spun, impossibly smooth and flavourful. Every dish reflected both intellectual rigor and heartfelt cooking.

Modern Italian
Mountain Food
9 / 10