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I recently found myself at Koharu, a newly opened sushi establishment with ties to the esteemed Harutaka, one of Tokyo's top sushi places. The restaurant, located at the original spot where Harutaka started 15 years ago, is now under the skilled hands of Hisayuki Kurita, who has worked alongside Harutaka for the past 15 years.
As a disciple of the legendary sushi Chef Jiro, Harutaka is renowned for always sourcing the finest fish. The transition to Koharu marked a significant change, with Kurita-san taking the helm and infusing his own uniqueness into the dining experience.
Upon entering, the atmosphere at Koharu feels distinct from its predecessor. The interior has been redecorated, with the only constant being the eight-seat counter. The restaurant initially started with two dinner seatings at 5:30 and 8:30, but as operations streamlined, the first seating now begins at 6 o'clock. Notably, the second seating has become more flexible, starting at 9 o'clock.
While maintaining the essence of Harutaka's style, Koharu presents its own unique touch. The quality remains at the renowned Harutaka level, offering a delightful alternative to Harutaka. What sets Koharu apart is its inclusion of steamed egg custard, fried delicacies like kamasu and oysters, and palate-cleansing pickles, a refreshing departure from the offerings at Harutaka.
Kurita-san's commitment to excellence is evident in his choice of rice for Shari, mirroring his master's blend of two different rice varieties. This versatile Shari complements an array of fresh and top-notch neta sourced from the same fishmongers as his former master. Some standout pieces during my visit were nothing short of sensational.
The restaurant's menu, while reminiscent of Harutaka, introduces distinctive elements. Noteworthy highlights include rare selections like Himekodai, ingenious preparations of boiled or broiled yellowtail, and Kuruma shrimp presented whole. A unique touch is the offering of sea urchin salmon roe bowls, a delightful surprise not found in Harutaka. Even the tuna, differing from Harutaka's offerings, showcases Koharu's commitment to diversity and quality.
To conclude the culinary journey, Koharu delights patrons with miso soup, seasonal bowls like hamo soup, rolls, and eggs. Unlike Harutaka, where these items are separate orders, Koharu seamlessly incorporates them into the Omakase course.
The meal consisted of 7 meticulously crafted otsumami dishes and 14 exquisite nigiri pieces. Each otsumami, from the perfectly steamed Abalone in a subtly acidic sauce to the fatty and flavorful Tuna Neck, showcased Chef Kurita's culinary prowess. The nigiri, including outstanding Tuna varieties, a standout Buri, and a harmoniously balanced Kohada, formed a symphony of flavors that danced on the palate.
In addition to the outstanding meal experience, the price of ¥34,000 offered exceptional value for the culinary journey provided. Koharu proves to be a haven for sushi enthusiasts, offering a culinary experience that seamlessly blends tradition with innovation. A visit to Koharu is not just a meal but a memorable journey through flavors, textures, and the artistry of Chef Kurita.
8 / 10
