Dining at Sushi Arai at the main counter on the second floor is an experience reserved for those fortunate enough to access Chef Arai’s personal domain. With just seven seats and an almost sacred quietude, the space feels like a temple to Edomae craft—restrained, reverent, and obsessively focused. Arai-san himself was behind the counter, conducting the meal with calm precision.

The otsumami portion was extraordinary—far more memorable than the nigiri that followed. Each dish was thoughtful, paced, and quietly inventive. One stood far above the rest: a single hamaguri, hand-warm, gently placed over rice with the faintest touch of olive oil. The addition of the oil—a seemingly modern flourish—was transformative. It elevated the dish from something already very good to something bordering on genius. The warmth, the softness of the clam, the fragrance of the oil, and the neutrality of the rice came together with startling harmony. It was among the best preparations of hamaguri I’ve ever encountered—unexpected, bold, and deeply satisfying.

When the meal transitioned to nigiri, expectations naturally rose. Arai-san’s reputation is built in large part on this part of the meal. The technique, the sourcing, the seasoning—all were faultless. And yet, somehow, the nigiri course felt slightly muted. The rice, seasoned assertively with a blend of vinegars, held its structure beautifully. The fish was top-quality, meticulously sliced. But where the otsumami had moments of ingenuity and emotion, the nigiri felt more clinical—precise, but without that same emotional impact.

There was, of course, one exception: the tuna. From akami to chutoro to ootoro, Arai-san delivered exactly what is expected at the highest level in Tokyo. These pieces had depth, texture, and a lingering umami that reminded you where you were—and who was making them.

In all, the meal at Sushi Arai’s main counter was a study in contrasts: a breathtaking otsumami sequence that flirted with brilliance, and a nigiri course that, while expertly crafted, stopped just short of magic. But to witness Arai-san at work, especially with dishes like that hamaguri, is still to glimpse the mind of a master.