Dinner at Frangente
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“Tradition never dies”.
Federico Sisti wears this slogan on his baseball cap which he wears during service in his open kitchen. Interesting, as he describes his cuisine as impulsive. Driven by instinct, creativity and top products, he also is entrenched in the long tradition of Romagna where he is from.
His new restaurant which opened in April 2021 features the kitchen right at the entrance with a big window to the street. This is by design, as he wanted to create an atmosphere of eating in the house of the Chef.
A casual recommendation from a friend I did not know what to expect, so I told the waiter that I wanted Frederico to just do his thing. And what a thing he did.
9 dishes and three “spoons” of desserts selected by the Chef made for an unbelievable meal ranging from classic pasta dishes to ovals. All of them are flavorful, full of umami and very tasty.
Tripe with cherry tomato and pecorino sauce has an incredible texture. The sweetness of the tripe was balanced by the acidity of the tomatoes and the saltiness of the pecorino.
I have rarely eaten a better sweetbread than this. Roasted and served with vegetables it melted in the mouth while the crispy outside gave it structure.
The “piece de resistance” however was the Meat Cappelletti. Cooked a little less than al dente with a rich flavor meat filling was just pure indulgence.
The wine list is interesting, full of natural wines, some funky stuff, but guided by the sommelier I could find some good choices to pair the food with.
The service is casual, but professional with the Chef serving a lot of dishes himself to the entire 40 seat dining room.
The end of the meal offers a pleasant surprise as the pricing is a complete steal.
I can see this place becoming a temple of pilgrimage like the Trippa across town.