Dinner at Clos des Sens

Dinner at Clos des Sens

at Clos des Sens on 19 June 2019
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On of the two new three stars in France. I have been there in 2009 and then again in 2017 when it was a two star restaurant. In my opinion it remains exactly that, a two star place. Why the Guide elevated it to the highest tier is not entirely clear to me.

The food is great, the dining room and location fantastic and the front of the house professional, polite, funny and patient.

However, the dishes although excellently conceived, fall too often down because of flaws in the execution. The Kohlrabi in a safran bouillabaisse, a dish which could have been phenomenal, was overcooked, watery and too soft. The wild trout was strangely without any taste by itself and clearly needed some more seasoning. The only really outstanding dish was the starting mushroom salad. Here everything was perfect, the presentation, the mushroom as the main ingredient and the shallots which added the necessary acidity to the dish.

I do hope that these execution flaws were just accidents and are indicative for the restaurant which showed tonight below its potential.

Modern French
7