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Matsuyama, located in Kitakyushu, Northern Kyushu, stands as a cultural haven, immersing diners in Japanese traditions and culinary richness. Chef Shozo Matsuyama, a meticulous curator of local flavors, unveils a menu that transcends mere dining into a cultural journey. The restaurant, reborn in 2019 after renovations, holds the esteemed Michelin one-star rating for both 2014 and 2019.
Stepping into Matsuyama, one is greeted by a modern masonry exterior, a prelude to an intimate space adorned with Shikoku Aoishi stones, famed for bringing good fortune. The chef's keen sense of design is evident in every detail, from handcrafted Fukuoka wood chairs to walls reflecting Kitakyushu's coal mining history. With only six counter seats, Matsuyama offers an exclusive culinary experience, complemented by a private room featuring unique furnishings and an otherworldly ambiance.
The heart of Matsuyama's charm lies in Chef Matsuyama's seasonal and culturally rich courses, each meticulously curated. February's menu, for instance, unveils a symphony of flavors, from daikon radish with shiro miso to a captivating presentation of wild-caught local hirame sashimi. The chef's attention to detail extends to specially ordered vessels, such as the Setsubun Festival-themed hassun arrangement, a visual ode to tradition.
Matsuyama's commitment to local sourcing is palpable in each dish, with approximately 60% of the menu featuring Kitakyushu's finest ingredients. From the preferred Genki Tsukushi rice to locally caught seafood and unique turnips cultivated with slash-and-burn techniques, Matsuyama weaves a tapestry of local flavors.
Born in Fukuoka in 1981, Chef Matsuyama's culinary journey evolved from automotive engineering to the art of Japanese cuisine. A connoisseur of sake and sweets, he runs Kori Kashiya Komaru, an ice cream café adjacent to Matsuyama. His vision extends beyond his restaurant, aspiring to elevate Kitakyushu's culinary scene and educate future generations about Japanese food culture.
In essence, Matsuyama transcends the boundaries of a restaurant, offering an immersive experience where culinary artistry, cultural heritage, and a commitment to locality converge, creating a destination that beckons patrons to savor not just food but the essence of Japanese tradition.
Matsuyama's culinary prowess was on full display in yesterday's extraordinary Kaiseki meal. Chef Matsuyama's passion and exquisite sensitivity shone through each dish, starting with a captivating peanut tofu featuring just two peanuts—an introduction that balanced strong flavors without overwhelming the palate. The karasumi mochi followed, showcasing a generous portion of karasumi with a perfectly nuanced saltiness, paired harmoniously with a slightly warm sake.
The dashi for the soup course, crafted from maguro flakes instead of bonito, delivered a rich umami experience with a bolder flavor profile. The Hassum course, adorned with autumn leaves, offered a delectable fusion of autumn tastes, a feast for both the eyes and the palate. The main trio comprised a Toyama kobako, an Iwashi Nodoguro, and a chawanmushi crowned with shiitake and droplets of chicken oil, elevating it to new heights.
Concluding the culinary journey was a Kuri ice cream adorned with an abundance of kuri and served alongside a delightful kuri ale—a dessert pairing that added a perfect finishing touch. The entire experience unfolded in Matsuyama's intimate six-seat counter space, where casual yet impeccable hospitality reigned.
The reviewer expressed that the journey from Fukuoka to savor this exquisite culinary adventure was undeniably worth the effort, attesting to Matsuyama's status as a destination restaurant that transcends geographical boundaries.
9 / 10
