Hijikata (土方) Nagoya

The legendary chef Akira Hijikata of Nagoya specializes in Japanese cuisine, showcasing seasonal ingredients with a refined seasoning that eliminates any unpleasant flavors, undoubtedly placing him at the top level in Nagoya.Though he may appear to be a stubborn and difficult craftsman, he is actually witty, and watching the banter between him and his wife feels like a delightful comedy routine. It adds to the enjoyment of visiting, beyond just the food.This is my fourth visit, and I’m gradually getting a clearer picture of Chef Hijikata.The ice vessels he personally creates are exceptional; I’ve experienced many renowned establishments, but the quality of Hijikata's ice vessels is the best I’ve ever encountered.He sources exquisite ingredients from across the country, including Ise lobster, simmered abalone, Ayu from the Waragawa River, sea urchin from Amakusa, eel, and white sweet sea bream.He is also known as a fruit enthusiast, featuring Kaga Hibiki, Koju (plum), Shine Muscat, and Nagano Purple.It was a great meal! (^^)Today's menu: JPY 48,000- Ise lobster, grilled with winter melon, Ise lobster miso, and seasoned vinegar- Suzuki (sea bass), dried overnight, with sudachi- Miwa somen, onsen egg, simmered abalone, mizuna, yuzu, in an ice vessel- Ayu from Waragawa, sashimi, ginger, with dipping soy sauce- Ichimi sea bream, Kensasiki squid, tsuru-murasaki- Mikawa natural sweet shrimp, Amakusa sea urchin- Eel, grilled white, with wasabi and seaweed salt- New ginkgo, Amela tomato, jelly- Grilled hamo, with plum and grated daikon- Anjo figs, fig syrup- Corn tofu, mini okra- Yawatahama white sweet sea bream, lotus root cake- Edamame and yukari rice- Ise potato, tororo rice- Ishikawa Kaga Hibiki, Koju (plum), Shine Muscat, Nagano Purple- Mizu yokan- Other drinks Less

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【土方】
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名古屋・丸の内の静謐な街並みに溶け込む『土方』。1992年創業、店主・土方章司氏が45年以上の料理人生を注ぎ込み辿り着いたのは、「引き算」という言葉では片付けきれない、素材との対話そのものだ。一言で表すなら、素材の純度を高める料理。余計な装飾を削ぎ落としながらも、決して単純化では終わらせない、その奥行きにこの店の個性が宿る。

アプローチは徹底している。例えば鮑一つとっても、蒸しによって旨味を内に閉じ込め、さらに餡でコーティングすることで温度と旨味を持続させる。「足す」のではなく、「引き出すための補助線」としての技法だ。昆布締め、葛打ち、幽庵焼き、どれも古典的な技法だが、その使い方は極めてストイックで、結果として現代的な輪郭を帯びる。器の中に季節を閉じ込めたような端正な佇まい、口に運べば素材の輪郭がくっきりと立ち上がり、その後に出汁や香味が静かに寄り添う。余韻は長く、それでいて重さは残らない。

「蒸し鮑と筍の餡掛け」は、蒸しによって引き出された鮑の凝縮した旨味に、大阪の筍の際立つ甘さが重なり合う一皿。餡は前に出ることなく、温度と余韻を支えるためだけに存在している。「白海老の昆布締めと寄せえんどう豆」は、ねっとりとした白海老の旨味にえんどう豆の青い甘さが重なり、春の輪郭をそのまま映し出す。「鮎魚女の葛打ちの御椀」は、葛の薄膜が生むなめらかな舌触りと出汁の奥行きが印象的で、木の芽の香りが全体を引き締める。

「白甘鯛の棒寿司」は炙った皮目の香ばしさが印象的で、酢橘の酸が後味を軽やかに整える。40年ぶりに作ったと笑うが、その歴史に圧倒される。「雲丹と本ミル貝のお造り」は、大間の雲丹の濃厚なコクに対してミル貝の食感と旨味が拮抗し、コシアブラのほろ苦さが味わいに立体感を与える。「虎河豚の幽庵焼き」は脂の乗りと香ばしさが同居し、アスパラの青さが余韻を整える。

「車海老とフルーツトマトの土佐酢ジュレがけ」は、甘味・酸味・食感が緻密に組み立てられ、口の中を一度リセットする役割も担う。「貝と山菜の和え物」は赤貝や鳥貝の食感の違いに、うるいや浜防風の青い香りが重なり、出汁の旨味と生姜のニュアンスが全体をまとめる。「牛鍋」は花山椒の痺れと山菜の苦味が脂の旨味に奥行きを与え、蕗や筍、タラの芽といった季節の要素が一体となる。

「食事」の一つ目は「のどぐろと干し椎茸のご飯」。脂と旨味の層が幾重にも重なり、締めでありながら箸が止まらなくなる。もう一つは「白飯とじゃこ」。極めてシンプルだが、その純度の高さが際立つ。「水菓子」はメロンや完熟紅ほっぺ、宮崎マンゴーといった果実そのものの完成度をそのまま届ける構成。「黒蜜のブランマンジェ」は滑らかな口当たりの中に黒蜜のコクが静かに広がり、最後まで一貫した余韻で締めくくる。

料理を通して感じるのは、素材に委ねる覚悟。その一点に、45年以上の積み重ねがそのまま表れている。だからこそ一皿ごとに迷いがなく、静かに力強い。積み上げてきた時間そのものを、料理として味わわせる店だ。ご馳走様でした。
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#土方
#名古屋 Less

I ended up having 7 servings! This is the pinnacle of Japanese cuisine! ✨I visited a Michelin three-star restaurant, Nihon Ryori Kata.What I ordered:⚫︎ Omakase Course from JPY 50,000*Please note that the information is based on my visit, and things may have changed since then.☑︎ On this day, it was a 15-dish course.Instead of adding flavors, the dishes brought out the essence of the ingredients through subtraction, and each one was exquisite! ✨This is truly the pinnacle of Japanese cuisine! ✨☑︎ The rice dishes were two types: oyster and nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch). The nodoguro was by far the best I’ve ever had among all the rice dishes I’ve tried! ✨It was incredibly delicious! (^^)I kept repeating how good it was, and the chef playfully asked, "Can I make your next serving a large one?" It turned into a fun "wanko kamameshi" (rice served in a pot) experience! ( ・∇・)Afterward, we had a lively discussion with the chef and other customers about wanko soba! ☑︎ The final fruits included some extremely rare varieties that are only air-freighted once or twice a year, and they were incredibly delicious! (^^)☑︎ The selection of Japanese sake was also impressive, featuring some rare options. The secretly served Junmai Daiginjo Juyondai Manko was a premium bottle among premium sakes! ✨It had a flavor reminiscent of dessert, and I would believe it if someone told me it was a dessert! (o^^o)Wow, it was delicious! ✨Like many top restaurants in Nagoya, they are currently not accepting new reservations.If you have a reservation, I highly recommend experiencing the pinnacle of Japanese cuisine! (^^)It was a great meal.Nihon Ryori Kata3-11-26 Marunouchi, Naka Ward, Nagoya City No parking available⏰ Business hours: 18:00 - 22:00Reservation only. Less

Course?1 Beer5 Japanese SakesTotal: JPY 55,480This Japanese restaurant is a 10-minute walk from Hisaya Odori Station.I made a reservation during my last visit.Starting with "Steamed Abalone," the course included 11 dishes, 2 types of rice, and 2 desserts.The quality of the soup, sashimi, and the classic "Shirakawa's Grilled Fish" was outstanding, and I enjoyed every bite.Hijikata offers 2 types of rice.Both "Iwagaki and Young Ginger Rice" and "Sea Bream and Edamame Rice" had a perfect balance of flavors, with the seafood essence beautifully infused into the rice.Finally, there are the signature fruits from Hijikata.This time, we had three varieties: peach, Shine Muscat grapes, and cherries.These are top-quality fruits that disregard cost.They are so delicious that I am amazed every time.It was a great meal.Course Menu:◯ Steamed Abalone with Corn◯ Junsai and Yam Puree with Vinegar Jelly◯ Hamo and Winter Melon Soup◯ Shirakawa's Grilled Fish◯ Mackerel and Honmirugai◯ Aori Squid and Red Sea Urchin◯ Isaki Grilled with Tree Buds◯ Kuruma Ebi with Kinpira Greens◯ Hokkigai with Somen Pumpkin◯ Ayu Dried Overnight◯ Kamo Eggplant and Grilled Shiitake◯ Iwagaki and Young Ginger Rice◯ Sea Bream and Edamame Rice◯ Peach, Shine Muscat, Cherry Less