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Our dinner at Amarante was a reminder of how deeply satisfying French bistro cooking can be when it is executed with conviction and honesty. Chef Christophe Philippe, known for his no-nonsense style and commitment to superb ingredients, delivered a meal that felt both rustic and refined.
We began with escargots sauvages, bathed in their classic parsley-garlic butter. The snails were tender, earthy, and vibrant, lifted by the herbaceous richness of the sauce and balanced with a fresh salad. A plate of charcuterie de porc Noir Gascon followed, showcasing the depth and nobility of this heritage breed — intensely flavored, with a pleasing balance of fat and lean. The foie gras de canard, smooth and luxurious, arrived with toasted pain de campagne, its richness complemented by the gentle smokiness of the bread. A velouté of lentils and spinach surprised us with its depth: silky and buttery, punctuated by shards of crispy pork belly, turning a humble soup into something decadent.
For the main courses, the sole rôtie au beurre was a highlight — impeccably filleted, delicate and buttery, while the accompanying accras made from the trimmings added a playful, textural contrast. Spinach and panisses rounded the plate with balance and substance. The ris de veau, roasted whole, came with a silky potato purée. It was a masterclass in texture: crisp exterior giving way to tender, creamy sweetbreads.
We ended with a slice of Snidre fermier, a raw ewe’s milk tome, rustic and complex, perfectly closing the meal.
Amarante delivers straightforward food with soul, and our evening proved why it remains a Paris insider’s gem.
