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This latest visit to L’ÉTERRE offered another quietly confident, fire- and produce-driven meal that demonstrated Chef Tagomori’s refined touch and sensitivity to flavor.
The gougère was soft and cheesy—a classic but satisfying start. It was followed by a sweet corn cream paired with Thai coffee, a surprisingly effective combination: the bitterness of the coffee playing beautifully against the natural sweetness of the corn.
The beef tartare, made from mature dairy cow, had excellent texture and a deep umami release—showcasing the complexity of aged meat without heaviness.
A standout fish course was the Ishinagi, done in a tempura-like style, with strands of new ginger lending brightness and acidity. The inside was barely cooked, preserving a pleasing, sashimi-like texture.
The Fuefukidai (emperor snapper) was served raw with grilled eggplant and olive oil. Ikejime-handled and landed two days earlier in Yaizu, the fish had purity of flavor, though slightly chewy. The pairing with the smoky eggplant brought a nice contrast.
The hairy crab and Iwate shiitake course rounded out the savory portion—earthy and sweet, subtle but deeply comforting.
Once again, L’ÉTERRE delivered a thoughtful and elegant meal rooted in elemental technique and exceptional sourcing. A restaurant that never overreaches—and never misses.
8 / 10
