Table - Bruno Verjus Paris

in paris, france (july’24)

one of the few fine dining spots i enjoy in paris, given not a huge french fine-dine lover. somewhat casual, neighbourhood restaurant where you can choose to be sat along the counter facing an open kitchen.

loved the start, fresh vegetables salad with a bottarga dressing and vinegrette, followed by a trio of pigs ear, squid and tartlet of clams and taramasalata. my favourite dish of the evening was the crab and broad bean salad on grilled zucchini with a rich bisque like crab emulsion. super summery and super fresh. their signature dish is their clarified butter poached lobster, amazing technique allowing the lobster to slowly cook but still remaining semi-raw resulting in an amazing texture. but personally couldn’t stand how cloying this was, it felt like biting into a stick of butter. but their main of pigeon and olive was beautiful and really liked the desserts of their another signature caper infused chocolate caviar tart, and their petite fours.

a very solid fine-dining i would recommend for special occasions, albeit pricey but one of the most enjoyable and laid back experience which in general is what i prefer over white tablecloths.
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dinner tasting menu (€400)
✨salad, bottarga, vinaigrette
pigs ear and tomato gazpacho
cuttlefish in cucumber water
clam tartlet with taramasalata

✨grilled baby squid in fig leaf oil
✨crab and broad-bean salad, zucchini, crab emulsion
butter poached lobster, dragon tomato
red beetroot mousse, herb soup
scorpion fish, tomato, olive with ratatouille with poached langoustines
pigeon with seaweed and black olives
✨chocolate tart, osteria caviar
raspberry tart, madeleine in olive oil, pink praline ice cream
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would revisit: every so often
reservations online
price range pp: €300-€600
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📍TABLE BY BRUNO VERJUS
location: 3 rue de prague, paris
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#2feastingpigs_paris
#2feastingpigs_france Less

Atelier Le Table de Bruno Verjus is a celebrated Parisian restaurant, renowned for its distinctive approach to cuisine under the guidance of its self-taught head chef, Bruno Verjus. Established in 2013, the restaurant quickly gained acclaim for its minimalist style and emphasis on high-quality ingredients, sourced directly from small farmers and artisans. Verjus, who previously had successful careers in medicine, business, and food writing, leverages his deep understanding of flavors to create dishes that allow the natural essence of ingredients to shine. This philosophy has earned the restaurant significant recognition, including two Michelin stars, the first awarded in 2015 and the second in 2022, solidifying its status as a top dining destination in Paris.

Known for its elegant yet unpretentious ambiance, Atelier Le Table offers a unique dining experience, with an open kitchen design that encourages interaction and transparency. Customers and critics alike appreciate the simplicity and purity of the dishes, which are consistently praised for their innovative yet comforting flavors. The restaurant also stands out for its commitment to sustainability, reflecting Verjus's dedication to using only the finest, sustainably sourced ingredients.

A personal touch from Verjus, who often engages directly with guests, adds to the restaurant's charm. Over the years, the menu has evolved, with a focus on seasonal ingredients and a curated wine list that complements the natural flavors of the dishes. The restaurant’s unwavering dedication to simplicity and the integrity of ingredients continues to make it a standout in the Paris dining scene.

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I've been a long-time admirer of Atelier Le Table de Bruno Verjus, a place that has consistently delivered memorable meals that linger in the mind long after the last bite. However, my most recent visit left me with a feeling I hadn't experienced before at this establishment: a sense of underwhelm.

The evening started on a promising note, as it always does, with the poetic ambiance and the tantalizing menu. The "Color of the Day" dish, typically a vibrant celebration of fresh vegetables and wild herbs, was indeed visually appealing and playful in flavor. However, something was missing—a certain vibrancy or depth that I’ve come to expect from this dish. It was good, but not great, and in a restaurant like this, “good” feels like a letdown.

The "Sea Wonder" tarteline was a solid dish with a nice structure and creamy shrimps that were enjoyable, but it didn't quite reach the heights of previous visits. The "Grail" dish of cockles, cucumber water, and cucumber was a particular disappointment—slightly salty and, frankly, rather forgettable. It lacked the finesse and surprise that usually define the restaurant's offerings.

There were still high points in the meal, such as "The Deep Blue," where the Atlantic anchovies were expertly prepared with a tempura-like texture that was both delicate and flavorful. This was a reminder of why I fell in love with Bruno Verjus's cuisine in the first place. Similarly, the "Cold Artifice" with perfectly cooked artichokes and a savory plum sauce was delicious, though it didn’t quite elevate the experience as I had hoped.

Then came the "On the Shore" crab dish, which, while good, was underseasoned and could have benefited from more acidity to brighten it up. The highlight of the meal was undoubtedly the "Neither Raw Nor Cooked" lobster, which was a masterpiece—succulent, sweet, and almost creamy. Yet, this was followed by a string of dishes that continued to disappoint, including the "Moussetage" cauliflower mousseline, which, while nice, was unremarkable, and the "On the Line" grilled red mullet, which lacked the structure and texture needed to stand out.

The final savory dish, "Beyond Steak," was particularly uninspired. The Atlantic bluefin tuna was half-raw, half-cooked, but the dish felt unbalanced and, frankly, boring. This was a stark contrast to the usual creativity and execution I've come to associate with this restaurant.

Fortunately, the meal ended on a sweeter note with an excellent selection of cheeses from Bernard Antony and Hervé Mons, paired perfectly with a vigorously seasoned green salad. The desserts, especially the "Chocolate Tartlet Peru" and the "Magneleine," were wonderful, bringing a bit of the magic back to the table.

Agnese Morandi, the sommelier, was a saving grace throughout the evening. Her wine selections were impeccable, with each bottle thoughtfully chosen to complement the dishes. Her expertise truly enhanced the meal, even when the food itself didn’t always live up to expectations.

In the end, this meal left me with mixed feelings. It wasn't bad—far from it. But compared to my previous experiences here, it was underwhelming. Perhaps it was an off night, or maybe my expectations have been set too high by past visits. Regardless, while this experience has somewhat dampened my enthusiasm, it hasn't dissuaded me from returning. I still believe in the brilliance of Bruno Verjus and his team, and I’m hopeful that my next visit will recapture the magic that has always drawn me back. Less

Revisiting a restaurant where you have had previously had an outstanding meal can be a little nerve wracking , if the experience doesn’t match your memories you can feel disappointed.
Thankfully this has little chance of occurring with return visits to @bruno_verjus Table restaurant .

Great produce , cerebral flavour combinations, terrific cuisson , it’s a case study of refined simplicity, oh and the work of the saucier is phenomenal!

Every meal starts with “Le couleur du Jour “ , an artistic composition of the days best vegetables. Beetroot was humming today , and also loved the okra .

A trio of seafood bites follows, an Utah beach oyster paired with wild herbs, Whelks with ginger and turmeric, and my favourite a tart shell filled with taramasalata and clams .

A handsome asparagus spear is served with a quenelle of caviar and all that is left to do is to spike it into the vivid green seaweed moussayon.

Vol- au - Vent gets pimped up with langoustine, morels and white asparagus , classics do shine !

The signature lobster was perhaps better this time than previously, raw lobster is bathed with a butter perfumed with roast lobster shells , this neither cooks nor leaves the lobster completely raw, it’s a culinary limbo which results on a very tender and beautiful product, little bursts of artichoke contrast beautifully with the sweet crustacean.

A soup duo maintains the harmony , eggplant with brown butter and herb soup .

Turbot is gently roasted, and served with an astonishing sauce made from grey shrimp and langoustine shells.

Guinea fowl is paired with morels , spinach and another terrific jus . It’s the kind of jus where you may think the reduction has been taken too far , yet it’s delightfully sticky and compliments the dish perfectly.

Cheese from Bernard Antony is served with a beautifully dressed green salad , and paired with a terrific house vermouth suggested by super somm Agnese Morandi.

A quartet of bites for dessert , the star is the tart that is being copied all over the world , chocolate, caper, caviar . A perfect praline ice cream, a sweet strawberry and pea tart and finally an excellent olive oil madeleine.

A memorable night ! Less