Feasting Pigs

in fukuoka, japan (aug’24)

another sushiya i enjoyed a lot in fukuoka was kikuzushi. a slight distance away from the city, its located in a secluded residential district inside a beautiful traditional house. seguchi san was extremely friendly, even towards foreigners with good english knowledge as he worked overseas in monaco for a part of his career.

there was ample amounts of staff here helping and supporting the back kitchen, but assembly of tsumami and all preparations & cutting of netas were done by seguchi san himself. tsumami were simple but powerful, nigiri was more on the milder end of flavours with its delicate shari. some pieces i particularly enjoyed were the hamaguri, aji, hamo and tachiuo with nori shoyu nigiri.

considering how economical this lunch was, no longer they have such a long waitlist in reservations, mostly filled with extremely friendly regulars from around the area. definitely a great lunch spot when around kyushu.

ランチおまかせコース (¥24,200)
タコ octopus
甘鯛amadai
✨赤ウニ、蟹、赤酢のシャリaka uni, kani, akazu mixed shari
✨真魚鰹の海苔巻きmanagatsuo nori maki
みる貝、蓴菜mirugai, junsai
北寄貝hokkigai
キンキkinki
シャコの茶碗蒸しshako chawanmushi

✨アオリイカaori ika
白甘鯛shiro amadai
鯵aji
✨はも hamo
赤身漬け akami zuke
中トロ chutoro
✨蛤 hamaguri
鯖棒寿司 sababozushi
✨太刀魚、海苔醤油 tachiuo with nori shoyu
車海老 kuruma ebi
穴子 anago
紫ウニ murasaki uni
玉子 tamago
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would revisit: yes
reservations by phone/online
price range pp: ¥10,000-¥30,000
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📍菊鮨
location: 3-51-3 kasugakoen, kasuga, fukuoka
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in fukuoka, japan (aug’24)

hello fukuoka! first time exploring this charming city and can’t wait for more future visits. started the trip with a bang, at one of my best finds this trip. despite all controversy, i had a great time here but i definitely would be extremely cautious coming here if you cannot converse comfortably in japanese.

taisho trained for a bit in the notorious kappo kimoto, so his tsumami though simple was very nicely executed. from his signature katsuoboshi tkg, grilled iwashi to their fig in goma sauce. amazing cold chawanmushi with nagaimo as the first dish to cool us all down from the peak of fukuoka summer heat. whilst preparing the tsumami, it was really cute to see taisho’s father preparing and cutting the neta.

nigiri here are on the stronger side which is completely my cup of tea, relatively thick neta with a small shari but i found it still balanced really well especially with the ample shiromi we had today. wouldn’t say neta quality are top but he handled it really well and still made a very solid experience here especially given the cospa. after the course, there would be a list of tsuika items from kuruma ebi, second selection of uni etc. ended with a very solid cakey tamago.

great cospa, very nice team and dining experience for me here. i found the profile here also one of the most suited for my palate here in fukuoka after trying several sushiyas. definitely can’t be back. thank you!

おまかせコース (¥34,000)
冷たい長芋茶碗蒸しnagaimo cold chawanmushi
✨鰹干し卵かけご飯katsuoboshi tkg
✨焼きいわしgrilled iwashi
もずくmozuku
いちじく、ごまソースfig, sesame sauce
穴子の肝anago liver
はものマゴhamo eggs

✨赤身漬けakami zuke
中トロ chutoro
小肌 kohada
メイチダイmeichidai
✨カンパチkanpachi
✨春子鯛kasugo dai
鯵aji
黒ウニ kurouni
✨ヤライカyaraika
穴子 anago
干瓢巻き kanpyo maki

+ 赤ウニuni
+ ✨ホタテhotate
+ 車海老kuruma ebi
+ ✨昆布春子まきkombu kasugo maki
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would revisit: yes
introduction only
price range pp: ¥30,000-¥60,000
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📍鮨唐島
location: daito building ii, 3-1-2 akasaka, chuo-ku, fukuoka
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in kanazawa, japan (aug’24)

another notable yoshoku outpost of kanazawa, here specialising in spanish with a touch of japanese flair and a showcase of ingredients from noto peninsula. i really loved the ambience of the restaurant, staff here were also super friendly and extremely tourist friendly with several english speaking staff.

wouldn’t say the food here was exactly spanish, maybe apart from the paella which for me was the star of the meal. topped with a plump lightly poached ishigaki oyster, the paella itself was full of seafood brininess and flavour with perfectly textured arroz. if i was to compare, personally loved this version more than the famous joint in tokyo originally from kyoto. the rest of the meal had a rollercoaster of unique flavour combinations like an aged zucchini with a boar meatball, yomogi pudding. another two dishes i really enjoyed was the grilled local purple nasu on bear meat with smoked beurre blanc and the yellow tomato sauce with squid cut into ‘pasta.’ overall a pleasantly slow and enjoyable meal, an easy reservation and really like the way they highlight ingredients from this part of japan.
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tasting menu: (¥24,000)
✨impact shrimp 甘海老
pulpo 岩もずく/岩だこ/モロヘイヤ
calabacin ズッキーニ/よもぎ／七面腐
calamar 赤いか／黄色トマト
✨oso へた紫茄子/熊
zarzuela 白そい
carne 鹿
✨paella 牡蠣
cedro 能登杉
maizとうもろこし／マンゴー
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would revisit: try once
reservations online or call
price range pp: ¥10,000-¥30,000
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📍RESPIRACION
location: 67 hakurocho, kanazawa
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in kanazawa, japan (aug’24)

made it to kanazawa’s most famous yakitori-ya, headed by torishiki’s ikegawa san’s most respected disciple, whom also previously had a short stint in shanghai.

overall thought it was a solid meal, didn’t really have too many standout pieces and chicken quality also wasn’t the best. i really enjoyed the grill corn and tomato. but overall the char in the pieces weren’t distinct, and the level of doneness in the pieces fluctuated a lot. amount of food here was also not too much, ended with a choice of two gohans where almost everyone in the meal ordered oomori (large size). their rice course was probably the most enjoyble, their take on soboro don was unique and delicious with burdock and their smoky grilled yasai in oyako don - a bit on the soupy side but flavour was decent. ended with a nice and refreshing kiwi panna cotta with grand marnier jelly.

a nice try and decent yakitori outpost in kanazawa, for me not too memorable but glad i tried it out. still stand by the thought that ikegawa san’s disciples and him still stray some distance in terms of grill skills.
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おまかせコース: (¥13,500)
✨高坂鳥もろにく takasaka chicken
かしわ kashiwa
✨とうもろこし corn
ちょうちん chouchin
厚揚げ fried tofu
ささみ sasami
せせり seseri
✨白レバー white liver
✨トマト tomato
新生姜入りつくね ginger tsukune
ハツ heart
手羽先 chicken wing
✨そぼろ丼 soboro don
✨夏野菜の親子丼 vegetable oyako don
ブランマンジェ grand marnier pudding
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would revisit: try once
reservations online
price range pp: ¥10,000-¥30,000
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📍 蛤坂まえかわ
location: 1-1-9 nomachi, kanazawa
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in kanazawa, japan (aug’24)

there are a considerable number of soba spots in kanazawa, stopped by one of them and was super impressed. a really beautiful house hidden in the residential district behind the train station with discreet signs. started with a lovely soba miso with local zucchini, and a mixed tempura which were really enjoyable. opted for their duck soba, really loved the texture and pronounced wheat flavour in the soba. their texture was actually quite special, seems somewhat ‘al-dente’ and a little bit springy, and works really really well with the rich duck tare. the pieces of roast duck within were also really tasty, could imagine how satisfying this would be in winter times.

a lovely lunch spot that i’d love to come back when i’m next in kanazawa. really love the spacious house this soba-ya resides in and tatami seatings as well, a really great find.
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天ぷら盛り合わせ assorted tempura (¥1600)
✨そば味噌 soba miso (¥800)
✨鴨ざるそば hot duck broth with cold soba (¥2300)
そばの香プリン soba pudding (¥450)
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would revisit: yes, when in kanazawa
reservations by call
price range pp: ¥1000-¥3000
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📍手打蕎麦 こより
location: 2-20-13 nagata, kanazawa
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in kanazawa, japan (aug’24)

stayed a couple days in kanazawa to explore what else the city had to offer. as it was the peak of summer, it was perfect to explore yoshoku (western food) here. one of the most famous would be makino ncî, an innovative japanese french with very unimaginable combinations which surprisingly work well.

was impressed with the ayu and green tomato combo with an ayu cake which mellows out the bitterness well. potato chip with shiro ebi was also a favourite and was surprised by the cocoa on unagi with a refreshing pear narazuke in maki. we had to make our own eggyolk sauce for our fried amadai which was quite interactive and fun. prosciutto wrapped burrata with peach and eggplant was also quite interesting and tasty. ended with a laksa broth with an awabi rice, which was a bit too complicated especially with the addition of gorgonzola on the rice.

super friendly chef and team with fun interactive, unique but tasty courses. super foreigners friendly and easy to reserve. a good try in kanazawa.

ディナーコース dinner course: (¥28,000)
squid ink brioche, aka ika, roe いかといかすみおパン
uni, carrot mousse, consumme jelly うにじゅれ人参
meringue with chicken liver parfait 鶏レバーパフェのメレンゲ
ayu, green tomato, ayu cake 浅野川鮎、鮎ケーキ
botan ebi, soy ice cream 富山えび白ごま豆乳アイス
fried potato, shiro ebi, truffle 白海老トリュフ ポテトチップス
nodoguro steamed 氷見のどぐろ
unagi cacao maki with pear narazuke コーンめしうなぎチョコ幸水奈良づけ海苔巻き
egg yolk, anchovy cream, evoo, sudachi sauce with amadai アンチョビクリーム甘鯛
peach, eggplant, burrata in proscuitto 生ハム へた紫茄子、ブラッターチーズ桃
wagyu, red wine sauce, tomato orzo 池田牛ランプ
awabi gohan, laksa soup 鮑釜飯 トムアムクン
passion fruit パッションフルーツ
pineapple sorbet, chocolate cake パイナップルそるべチョコレートケーキ
chocolate dipped cherry tomato
makino nci cookie
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would revisit: try once
reservations online
price range pp: ¥30,000-¥60,000
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📍MAKINONCÎ
location: 25-18 yamanouemachi, kanazawa
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in kanazawa, japan (aug’24)

august visit to one of the temples of washoku, despite today’s menu not being very strong given the seasonal limitations, its always such a privilege to be back.

the style here is very clean but elegant, a tad more innovative with their menu this month, like the different ‘salads’ on chinese lantern (鬼灯) petals and their take on a zhong-zi. today’s owan featured a fluffy egg ball stuffed with okra (水玉) with amadai, a staple dish which is served from their dashi. pristine seafood from the ishikawa coast to be used for their otsukuri which is always one of the highlights here, featuring local flatfish and aka-ika, as well as katsuo and my favourite botan ebi. i loved the candied ginger on sticks that came with the grilled ayu, and wowed by the suppon jelly with ebi and okra. as always had tried all their shime of the day, first time having their tachiuo tendon which was mindblowingly good. their tkg is also my favourite rendition i’ve had so far.

very grateful and thankful for the invitations i’ve had to visit this place. i usually tend to prioritise new shops for my trips to japan, but this probably one of the only places in japan i’m not tired of revisiting, but rather ecstatic to try their monthly changing menus. a place i am more than happy to make the special journey for a meal here if invited again. looking forward to my next visit, and hopefully many more to come.
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8月のコース: (¥42,000)
ところてん cold tokoroten (agar noodles)
甘鯛と水玉オクラのお椀 amadai, egg ball with okra
✨お造り: 赤イカとマゴチ aka ika, flathead fish
鬼灯三種盛り: デラウェアみぞれ和え 芋茎胡麻和え ずん
だの白和え houzuki salad: delware grapes, taro stem, edamame
✨お造り2: ヒラソウダガツオと牡丹エビ katsuo, botan ebi
富山宮川の鮎 grilled ayu
蓮の実、新蓮根、梅肉の飯蒸し steamed rice
✨スッポンの煮凝り suppon jelly
✨長芋の座揚げと鮑の天ぷら chinese yam, abalone tenpura
ヘタ紫ナスの翡翠茄子 simmered eggplant
鮎のお刺身と胡瓜 ayu sashimi on cucumber salad
✨ご飯、味噌汁、お新香、牛肉の八幡巻き rice, condiments
✨鰹づけ丼 katsuo-zuke don
✨太刀魚の天丼 tachiuo tendon
✨卵かけご飯 tkg
梅干しのお茶漬け ume ochazuke
✨蓮根餅と抹茶 renkon mochi
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would revisit: yes
members only
price range pp: ¥30,000-¥60,000
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📍片折
location: 3-36 namikimachi, kanazawa
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in nagoya, japan (aug’24)

continued my trip for a quick dinner in nagoya, a highly sought after neighbourhood sushiya known for his kuruma ebis. overall really good cospa, and glad i ticked this place off my list but the rustic style and mild flavour in shari was not my preferred cup of tea.

tsumami was influenced with kaiseki preparations, contrasting nigiris and leaning on bolder flavours, like the very strong briny awabi kimo sauce udon and the teriyaki sauce grilled maguro. in the nigiri segment, kuruma ebi was served two ways as the first pieces, one which has been blanched for around 30 seconds so its mostly raw and one which is fully cooked. was quite an interesting comparison which is rarely served elsewhere. in between nigiris, some hot dishes were also served like the ‘shako miso’ which is like a miso meat sauce mix. these dishes had such strong flavour it contrasted so much with the nigiris causing a bit of palate confusion haha.

ended with 2 tamagoyakis, one as like a cooked sweet omelette, one as castella form, then another poached egg in the miso soup which completely stuffed me up. a good try and a semi-accessible sushiya when in nagoya.
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おまかせコース (¥22,000)
梅入り茶碗蒸し ume chawanmushi
先付: 雲丹、長芋の豆腐 uni, nagaimo tofu
鱧のお椀 hamo owan
鮑天麩羅稲庭うどん肝ソース abalone tempura udon
照り焼きマグロ teriyaki tuna
お口直しフルーツトマト シャインマスカット shine muscat & fruit tomato

✨車海老レア rare kuruma ebi
✨車海老 kuruma ebi
✨車海老頭焼き grilled kuruma ebi head
真鯛昆布締め madai
米茄子シャコ味噌 eggplant ‘shako miso’
縞鯵 shima-aji
✨新イカ shin-ika
新イカの下足焼き grilled shin-ika tenticles
干瓢山葵 kanpyo with wasabi
✨煮蛤 hamaguri
岩もずく mozuku
雲丹 uni
出汁玉子焼き dashimaki tamagoyaki
本鮪赤身 akami
中ト口 chutoro
山葵のお吸い物 wasabi soup
烏賊雲丹海苔巻き squid and uni maki
穴子 anago
とろたく手巻き torotaku
赤玉汁 miso soup and egg
カステラ卵 castella egg
ぷりん matcha pudding
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would revisit: try once
reservations online
price range pp: ¥10,000-¥30,000
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📍鮨旬美西川 SUSHI SHUNBI NISHIKAWA
location: 2-29-19 meieki, nakamura ward, nagoya
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in nagasaki, japan (aug’24)

after visiting pesceco, stopped by another notable italian restaurant in the area which is also worth visiting when in shimabara.

food here is a perfect crossbreed of italian cooking and skills supported by the unique ingredients of shimabara bay and its surrounding landscape. began with a homemade cheese topped with fermented onion and fresh onion that refreshed our palate. really enjoyed the potato batter in the fried kue (grouper), paired with a cumin infused vegetable dip. my favourite dishes of the evening were the fermented chicken jus sauce with a punchy cucumber salad and octopus, as well as the cold new onion sauce infused with small clams with local somen. full of umami flavour balanced with the sweetness of these baby onions, soso good. the pasta of the day was a boar meat ravioli with ooba, ginger and garlic which reminded me a lot of cantonese dumplings from home. local lamb was also delicious, and appreciated the changes and different servings of focaccia throughout the menu.

ended with a chilli and vinegar milk with a strawberry and orange granita, and a white chocolate mille-crepe cake. very solid cooking and cute restaurant run by a husband wife team.
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tasting menu: (¥20,570)
湧水パン spring water bread
新玉local onion
魚 raw fish
モリ突き海中神経締め ‘shinkeijime’ in the sea
初夏summer shell
素麺somen
汁river
粉物 pasta
肉local lamb
デザートdessert
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would revisit: if in the area
reservations online
price range pp: ¥10,000-¥30,000
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📍ヴィッラデルニード VILLA DEL NIDO
location: ko-313-2 kunimicho taira, unzen, nagasaki
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in shimabara, japan (aug’24)

made it to what feels like the edge of japan after a whole morning of travelling into shimabara, nagasaki. a city that feels like we were transported back in time. serving hyper-local ingredients in particular seafood around the shimabara bay, with ingredients straight from his father’s fish shop next door. with very clean cooking, highlighting and maximising the natural flavours with the most beautiful presentation to match its scenery.

started with an anchovy potato tart, uni and onion puff, and a natural kuruma ebi stuffed with a egg mayo salad. ‘shimabara salad’ with local rice, kelp and uni, with a light hint of sesame oil was interesting, really loved the broth made of ham, kelp and mushroom with a huge local rock oyster. the same ham of the broth was also served with fried hamo, before the signature dish of octopus tenticles and okra which was too pretty to eat. the next signature blue crab somen was one of my favourites of the lunch, as shimabara is known for their local somen, the texture and flavour of this was sososo good. was wow-ed by the cold brew niboshi broth which served with the unagi, made with anchovies abundant in this area. before ending with a seafood caldozo, and a anko, wasanbon sugar dessert with cheese ice-cream.

so far away but worthy of a trek, completely highlighting the seafood produce of this region of japan which is still somewhat undiscovered. simple cooking with so much depth of flavours, looking forward to his menus in other seasons, will be back the next time i’m around kyushu.
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tasting menu (¥32,670)
✨浜辺の散歩: anchovy tart
✨波紋のように: uni puff
✨余韻: kuruma ebi with egg salad, shimabara rice & kelp salad, rock oyster broth
「fish & ham」
タコの花束: octopus bouquet
✨ガネ素麺: blue crab somen
✨海鰻: unagi
菜園のなかで: steamed kue in fig leaves
ひとつの鍋: seafood rice
懷味: anko, wasanbon sugar, cheese ice cream
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would revisit: yes
introduction only
price range pp: ¥30,000-¥60,000
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📍PESCECO
location: 223-1 shinbabamachi, shimabara, nagasaki
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