in shiga, japan (june’24)
last stop of my june road-trip was at hira sansou, a legendary spot slightly outer kyoto known for their bear, but also for their matsutake in autumn and ayu in summer. their ayu course was particularly special since most ayu of japan are located within the proximities of shiga, so its known to be one of the most famous places to try this summer fish.
the course began with a small sashimi platter of koi, unagi and grilled beef, followed by a junsai in dashi. next was a beautiful hassun with inoshishi, tenaga ebi from biwako, hanasansho zuke, ayuzushi (salted and aged ayu). before two rounds of ayu were served, from different lakes and streams, both grilled in salt. first one was a tennen one from lake biwa, grilled whole, followed by the one from ado-kawa, a small river leading from shiga where it is deboned, with its bones crisped up and made into senbei.
we next got an add on kuma nabe which was personally my favourite from the whole lunch, not as sweet and fatty compared to them at their prime, but loved the dashi so much that i would love to come back next winter or spring for them at their prime moments. before an ayu gohan was served, where the ayu were pre-deboned, then they remove the head and all its bitterness on the table mixing it into the rice. the final serving was made into ochazuke, i didn’t love this as they used a strong soba-cha which dominated the mellow fish flavour. ended with a sansho ice cream with anko which was interesting to eat.
a beautiful estate facing a gorgeous blossoming garden with a lake full of koi fish. can’t wait to return another season for their kuma nabe.
夏あゆのコース (¥33,000):
お造リ: 鯉、鰻、肉 koi unagi niku
旬菜のだし junsai dashi
✨八寸 hassun
天然琵琶湖の鮎 塩焼き biwako ayu
安曇川の鮎 塩焼き ado-kawa ayu
✨春の熊鍋、たけのこ bear hotpot
✨鮎ご飯、お茶漬け ayu gohan, ochazuke
山椒のアイス、あんこ sansho ice-cream
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would revisit: yes (for spring / winter)
introduction only
price range pp: ¥30,000-¥60,000
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📍比良山荘 HIRA SANSOU
location: 94 katsuragawabomuracho, otsu, shiga, japan
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