Katatsumuri (かたつむり) Yamagata

Nestled quietly in the mountains of Yamagata City, Gifu Prefecture, lies "Tsukikusa Ryori Katatsumuri." This unique establishment focuses on seasonal ingredients sourced from the mountains, including natural mushrooms, wild vegetables, and game meats such as boar, deer, and bear. It is a rare gem that has consistently received accolades, including the Tabelog Award, and I had long wanted to visit.While it has a strong reputation as a "game meat specialty restaurant," experiencing the food firsthand reveals that it cannot be defined by that alone. Alongside robust dishes featuring boar, deer, and bear, the presence of vegetables, river fish, and natural mushrooms is significant. In particular, the mushroom dish that appeared towards the end left a lasting impression.■ Appetizers - Smoked Boar ◎ I started with the smoked boar. The smoky aroma paired beautifully with the rich flavor of the boar, offering a wild taste without any overwhelming gaminess. The addition of mustard lightened the dish, showcasing the chef's skill in handling game meat right from the start.- Deer Pancreas ◎+ With its unique creamy texture reminiscent of liver, this dish had a rich depth of flavor. Although the portion was small, it was memorable due to the rarity of this cut.- Matsutake Mushrooms ◎+ These had a tender texture, and as I chewed, the umami of the mushrooms gradually spread. This dish set the stage for the mushroom courses to come, allowing me to appreciate the intensity of the natural mushrooms' flavor even at this early point.- Pumpkin ◎ Sweet and simple, this dish conveyed the deliciousness of the ingredient itself.- Edamame ◎ The beans had a rich flavor, and their sweetness intensified with each bite. The fact that even these seemingly ordinary vegetables were so delicious is characteristic of this restaurant.■ Neho Sweetfish ◎+ A notably large sweetfish, it had a thick, plump texture that was satisfying to eat. The fish's characteristic aroma was present, allowing me to enjoy the essence of river fish.■ Boar with Green Peppers ◎ The combination of boar in a green pepper stir-fry was intriguing. The meat had a strong umami flavor, and it paired well with the aroma of the peppers. Rather than feeling like game meat, it was simply a delicious meat dish.■ Green Vegetable Konjac Sashimi with Vinegar Miso ◎ The refreshing konjac sashimi paired well with the tangy vinegar miso, providing a palate cleanser amidst the meat dishes.■ Corn ◎+ This was incredibly sweet, with the flavor bursting forth as soon as I bit into it.■ Cucumber ◎+ Not only was it refreshing, but it also had a vibrant aroma and flavor. Paired with the boar meat miso, it added depth and umami, transforming a simple cucumber into a substantial dish.■ Salad ◎+ A salad featuring broccoli, Japanese radish, leafy greens, tomatoes, and peaches. Each vegetable had a strong flavor, with the sweetness of the peach providing a delightful accent. I believe the deliciousness of the vegetables is a significant charm of this restaurant, alongside the game meats.■ Grilled Boar Spare Ribs ⭐️ This was my favorite meat dish of the evening. The boar, infused with the aroma of charcoal, had a firm texture that released its umami as I bit into it. The sweetness of the fat was particularly good, rich yet not heavy. The flavor of the lean meat near the bone was stronger, allowing me to enjoy the variations in cuts.■ Boar Ham and Sausage ◎+ The ham was moist, while the sausage was smoky and concentrated in flavor. The impression of boar can vary greatly depending on the cooking method, but even as processed meat, the strong umami was evident. It paired well with mustard.■ Deer Stomach (Mino) ◎+ With a crunchy texture typical of offal, there was hardly any unpleasant odor. It was my first experience with deer mino, and it was surprisingly easy to eat. After the meal, I was shown the actual deer that had been processed, providing a unique experience of seeing the source of the dish after enjoying it.■ Tempura - Young Sweetfish ◎+ The batter was light, and the slight bitterness of the young sweetfish was pleasant. Despite its small size, the flavor of the sweetfish was well pronounced.- Myoga ◎ The unique aroma of myoga spread from the batter, with its bitterness providing a nice accent.- Manganji Pepper ◎ This also had a moderate bitterness, making for a simple tempura that highlighted the ingredient's flavor.- White Eggplant ⭐️ The white eggplant inside the batter was astonishingly tender and creamy. The sweetness of the moisture-laden eggplant filled my mouth, making it particularly memorable among the vegetable dishes.- Boar Tatsuta Age ⭐️ This was a personal favorite. When I think of boar dishes, I imagine rustic mountain cuisine, but turning it into tatsuta age made it much more approachable. The rich seasoning, the aroma of the batter, and the umami of the boar combined to create a deliciously indulgent dish. Adding finger lime introduced a tangy note, lightening the aftertaste.■ Grilled Duck ◎+ Cooked to retain some red meat, the texture was tender. The rich flavor had a hint of iron reminiscent of liver, which paired well with the charcoal aroma.■ Akayamadoritake Mushroom Sushi ⭐️ One of the most surprising dishes of the evening. At first glance, it appeared to be a simple mushroom sushi, but the texture of the Akayamadoritake was unexpectedly smooth, melting in my mouth. The idea of using mushrooms in sushi was intriguing, and pairing it with rice made the umami and texture even more pronounced.■ Natural Mushroom Hot Pot ⭐️ This hot pot featured Yamaguchi mushrooms and boar meatballs, combining the animal umami from the boar with the aroma and broth of the natural mushrooms, resulting in a deeply flavorful dish. After enjoying various game meats, the presence of the mushrooms began to dominate.■ Bear Shabu-Shabu ◎+ This bear meat, sourced from Takayama, appeared quite rich due to the white fat, but it was surprisingly not as heavy as I had imagined. The meat had a firm texture, and the fat had a unique richness and sweetness. Eating it with vegetables like green onions, watercress, and mizuna created a good balance with the fat.■ Natural Mushroom Zosui ⭐️⭐️ The final dish that left the strongest impression was the zosui. Featuring natural mushrooms like Akayamadoritake, Yamaguchi mushrooms, and egg, it absorbed all the umami from the boar that had been simmering in the hot pot.What surprised me most was the intensity of the mushroom broth. Despite not being heavily seasoned, the moment it entered my mouth, the umami and aroma burst forth. The unique texture of the Tamagotake was delightful, making it a dish I could eat bowl after bowl.Despite having enjoyed such rare meats as boar, deer, duck, and bear, it was the mushroom zosui that captured my heart the most, which was quite interesting. It was a significant discovery to realize just how much of a starring role natural mushrooms can play in a dish.Eating the locally sourced ingredients while listening to the chef talk about them was a wonderful experience. After the meal, I was shown the deer, allowing me to enjoy not just the dishes but also the essence of Gifu's mountains.Located deep in the mountains of Yamagata City, it is not an easily accessible place, but it is undoubtedly worth the trip. I came for the game meat and left amazed by the greatness of the natural mushrooms. I look forward to visiting again in a different season. Less

■ Smoked Wild Boar with Green Vegetable Salad and Grilled Mushrooms, Sukuna Pumpkin, Edamame 5.0■ Grilled Sweetfish 4.5■ Wild Boar Stir-fried with Green Peppers, Aosa Seaweed Sashimi Konjac, Vinegar Miso, Minced Wild Boar, Cucumber, Corn 5.0■ Wild Boar Spare Ribs 4.8■ Salad 4.5■ Grilled Mallard Duck 4.5Burdock Genovese, Mustard■ Tempura 5.0Young SweetfishMyogaManganji PepperWhite EggplantWild Boar Tatsuta-age■ Venison Horumon 4.5Honeycomb Tripe and Omasum■ Wild Boar Sausage and Ham 4.5■ Matsutake Mushroom Nigiri 4.8■ Mushroom Hot Pot 5.0Yamabushitake and ChichitakeWild Boar Tsukune and Bone-in Meat■ Bear Shabu-shabu 5.0■ Zosui (Rice Soup) with Pickles 4.8■ Pineapple White Coco 4.5■ Plum Sumomo Gekkou 5.0■ Persimmon Early Variety 5.0■ Pear Tamamizu 4.8■ Densuke Watermelon 4.5■ Iced Coffee 4.5■ Watermelon Juice 4.5■ Non-Alcoholic Highball 4.5■ Homemade Ginger Ale 4.5■ Wild Grape 4.5■ Non-Alcoholic Sparkling 5.0■ Homemade Plum Juice Purple Queen 5.0■ Red Shiso Soda 4.5 Less

I finally visited Katatsumuri! I requested the same course for lunch that they offer for dinner.In addition to the course, we ordered natural eel, mushroom sushi, and fresh spring rolls, totaling around JPY 60,000 for two people. We enjoyed every bit of it for that price. Considering it’s like going to Disney, I actually prefer this over Disney. Though I haven’t been to Disney much.The meat varies by day, but on this occasion, we had three types: kogamo (young duck), bear, and boar. There were also some mushrooms I had never seen before.The meat was truly delicious and had no unpleasant odor, but what really impressed me were the mushrooms. Honestly, it was the best dish I’ve ever had in my life.They mentioned they hope to see us again around autumn, and I plan to return. Less