Feasting Pigs

in paris, france (july’24)

the main reason of our trip to paris, one of the most sought after new tables of europe, fully booked for a whole year in advance. needless to say we had sky high expectations, it was a solid meal but won’t say that our expectations were met and deserves the hype and waitlist it has.

the focus here was on sauces, thats what chef arnaud is known for. using ingredients as a vessel to complement the sauce, and supplying us with a whole bowl of the sauces used for each dish for refills and bread mopping. we opted for their tasting menu instead of a la carte to sample all the ‘signature courses.’

my favourite of the night was their sardine dish, each element was done well, complemented with a cold tomato base sauce which felt minimal and refreshing. another dish i liked was the lobster with artichoke, dual of sauces, one with lobster butter and coral, other one as a slightly acidic sabayon complemented by the plump french lobster. rest of the dishes were normal, expected executions of a 3 star, if that matters. they aim to present lighter courses and flavours than average french fine dining but i found some dishes like the turbot still pretty cloying. aesthetic presentation of the desserts but again, pretty average in flavour.

box is ticked, solid meal with no wow factors whatsoever. knew it was expensive from its location but thought they went a bit overboard, including the wine list. definitely pretentious, definitely a splurge. i’d say worth maybe 3 months maximum of waiting, definitely not a year.
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5 course tasting: (€460)
✨sardine, tomato, marigold
market gardener’s partition
turbot, seaweed, caviar
✨lobster, artichoke, coriander
veal, viroflay, bigarade
jeux de fragoria: strawberry, rhubarb, elderflower
+ cocoa pod flower
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would revisit: try once
reservations by phone
price range pp: €300-€600
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📍PLÉNITUDE
location: cheval blanc, 8 quai du louvre, paris
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in paris, france (july’24)

one of the few fine dining spots i enjoy in paris, given not a huge french fine-dine lover. somewhat casual, neighbourhood restaurant where you can choose to be sat along the counter facing an open kitchen.

loved the start, fresh vegetables salad with a bottarga dressing and vinegrette, followed by a trio of pigs ear, squid and tartlet of clams and taramasalata. my favourite dish of the evening was the crab and broad bean salad on grilled zucchini with a rich bisque like crab emulsion. super summery and super fresh. their signature dish is their clarified butter poached lobster, amazing technique allowing the lobster to slowly cook but still remaining semi-raw resulting in an amazing texture. but personally couldn’t stand how cloying this was, it felt like biting into a stick of butter. but their main of pigeon and olive was beautiful and really liked the desserts of their another signature caper infused chocolate caviar tart, and their petite fours.

a very solid fine-dining i would recommend for special occasions, albeit pricey but one of the most enjoyable and laid back experience which in general is what i prefer over white tablecloths.
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dinner tasting menu (€400)
✨salad, bottarga, vinaigrette
pigs ear and tomato gazpacho
cuttlefish in cucumber water
clam tartlet with taramasalata

✨grilled baby squid in fig leaf oil
✨crab and broad-bean salad, zucchini, crab emulsion
butter poached lobster, dragon tomato
red beetroot mousse, herb soup
scorpion fish, tomato, olive with ratatouille with poached langoustines
pigeon with seaweed and black olives
✨chocolate tart, osteria caviar
raspberry tart, madeleine in olive oil, pink praline ice cream
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would revisit: every so often
reservations online
price range pp: €300-€600
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📍TABLE BY BRUNO VERJUS
location: 3 rue de prague, paris
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in paris, france (july’24)

another one of my favourite bistros in paris, but more of a modern one with a wine focus. they recently re-established their chefs table seating at the back of their restaurant which serves a tasting menu style at a small kitchen separate from the main kitchen. compared to the main bistro its more hyper-seasonal and more of an interactive experience.

among the 3/5 course menu, we chose the 3 courses, where i thought was a very sufficient amount. began with two amazing mini tartlets, an eggplant puree with quail egg and a beef tartare with reduced beef stock and caviar. next was a lobster dish on a bed of summer salad. love how the meat and the claw were prepared slightly differently to bring out each of their characteristics, the meat was lightly seared so it was still half raw and claw was basted in butter.

next was a monkfish, not my favourite protein but love that it was half cooked and had a rich sauce made of french pea-crabs to complement the protein. served with a goat cheese and lobster stuffed zucchini flower which was beautiful. their meat dish is one of their signatures here, a fillet from a special charolais cattle from rhone which wanders across france to eat where the best grass are depending on the season. served with a beef jus and confit potatoes. ended with a dessert of our own choice from the main kitchen, and their chocolate mousse is one i can’t leave here without.

highly recommend both their chefs table and the main dining. lowkey enjoyed this meal more than the fancy dinings we had this trip.
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3 course tasting (€95)
amuse bouche
lobster with legumes summer salad
monkfish in pea-crab sauce, zucchini flower
roasted fillet, beef jus, confit potatoes
dessert: chocolate mousse
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would revisit: yes
reservations online
price range pp: €60-€100
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📍LE BON GEORGES
location: 45 rue st-georges, paris
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in paris, france

leveraging our dinner reservation at plenitude, made a sneaky reservation to cheval blanc’s famous breakfast to finally try the croissants i’ve been wanting to try for ages. tip would just be to call them to ask if you are travelling in a low season, you would most likely be given very early slots (7-8:30am) before the rush of hotel guests arrive.

their breakfast is basically somewhat buffet style, a set price of €60 which comes with complementary pac, croissant, baguette bread-sticks and yogurt, as well as a menu of items which you could order unlimited. was told by many they have the best croissant in paris and/or the world but sadly i would beg to differ. aesthetically, they were spot on, perfect honey comb interior and uniform shaping. but for me it felt super commercial, very light but not in a good way, lacking a homey touch and the rich buttery flavour i like in my croissants. they used a really good quality valroha chocolate in their pac which is worth mentioning, and the vanilla bean filled yogurt and fruits which was one of the best things of the breakfast along with their vanilla cream that comes with the waffles.

we opted for some more pastries like pain suisse which didn’t even feel freshly made on the day. their other sweet treats like crepes, waffles were extremely poor, relatively more decent french toast but a bit sweet for my liking. savouries could completely be skipped but i’m glad i got to somewhat finally tick their breakfast off my list.
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breakfast at cheval blanc (€60)
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would revisit: no
reservations by call
price range pp: €60-€100
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📍LE TOUT-PARIS AT THE CHEVAL BLANC
location: 8 quai de louvre, paris
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in paris, france (july’24)

continuing onto my (last) european summer post graduation, landed into paris just before the olympics. one of my favourites here has to be this small bistro around falguière, serving some of the heartiest and delicious french classics. not a long menu, but pretty much can’t go wrong with anything you order here but i do recommend trying their signatures.

i love their langoustines and morel mushroom starter, stuffed with a rich liver and sausage mince mixture. for mains, i highly recommend their ‘pigeon mille-feuille’, layers of thinly sliced nicely pink pigeon breast within fried potato roses before finished with two grilled legs. their beef bourignon is also the best rendition i’ve tried so far, comes with some slightly soggy and butter coated pasta but good enough to soak up all the sauce with the spoon cut tender beef. their duck confit is also one of my favourites here, they nail the balance of crispy skin and tender meat. portions sizes could also be halved on most dishes so you can max out on ordering just like we do every time.

their desserts here are very un-asian friendly as it feels like they use the whole pack of sugar for each dessert, but can’t fault their techniques as they make an amazing airy souffle. mille-feuille and apple tart are also very very good, even if you bring it home to have it the next day. highly recommended bistro that i genuinely enjoy over any fine-dining in paris, a must stop for me every trip.
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stuffed morel mushrooms (half: €28)
✨beef bourguignon with tagliatelle (€39)
✨pigeon mille-feuille with grilled legs (€48)
✨mille-feuille jean louis (€22)
tarte fine chaude aux pommes (€18)
soufflé with gran marnier (€19)

(not pictured but also recommend)
roast langoustines in lemon butter (€36)
✨homemade duck confit (€36)
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would revisit: yes
reservations online / phone call
price range pp: €30-€60
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📍JOSÉPHINE CHEZ DUOMONT
location: 117 rue du cherche-midi, paris
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in ilimanaq, greenland (july’24)

talking about destination restaurants, this experience exceeds most if not all the crazies i’ve done for food so far. flew all the way up north to greenland, with 2 flights and another boat ride before arriving to the restaurant i’ve been anticipating since their last season.

on top of the breathtaking scenic journey, was extremely impressed with the food from this small team originating from faroe islands. utilising and promoting greenlandic produce and culture, presenting unique flavours which were all simply mind-blowing in tastes as well as presentation.

began with a modernised inuit delicacy, muktak (whale blubber) beautifully braided with its skin and tendon with an immense depth of flavour. followed by a local fish capelin, almost resembling sardines, complemented with the gooseberry acidity. their tarts were the star of the show, from the sweet shrimp tart to the sea cucumber tart featured from head to tail. their signature ptarmigan served on a feather, comprised of layers and two sauces, the components just blend seamlessly, one of the best bites this year. the meal of constant highs, ended with unique desserts which didn’t disappoint either.

can’t wait to see where the koks team ventures to next, still stunned by their efforts and talent to turn a place which is rather isolated and barren to a full tasting menu of surprise. catch them before their season ends this september, truly worth the journey for your sight and tastebuds.
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tasting menu: (3200dkk)
+ ✨non alcoholic pairing
✨mattak
✨capelin, green gooseberries
halibut with sugar kelp and horseradish
squid with dulce & parsley
arctic char with fermented sweet potato
✨raw shrimps & burnt cream
✨snow crab & mushroom
✨sea cucumber & fermented leek
cod with scallop glaze
✨ptarmigan, black currant, reindeer fat
✨guillemot, reduced beetroot and mussel jus
reindeer with rhubarb, smoked bone marrow
✨bog labrador, angelica
bladderwrack seaweed & blackcurrant

limpet
mushroom with the brewery's spent grain
blue mussel candy
whale blubber with beetroot, currant leaf
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📍KOKS RESTAURANT
location: ilimanaq, greenland
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in copenhagen, denmark (july’24)

stopped by copenhagen early july on the way to greenland and was highly recommended this cozy restaurant inside a repurposed factory-esque space. sourcing basically all ingredients (except salt) locally around denmark, focusing on seasonal and organic ingredients, utilising fermentation techniques and using every component from head to tail. had my doubts on how such an idealistic concept could be brought to life whilst providing hearty and delicious food, but this was for sure one of the most memorable tasting menus and experience i’ve had in copenhagen amongst the plethora of famed restaurants in this small city.

some of my favourites included a sourdough batter ‘tempura’ zucchini flower which was perfectly fried, alongside a danish goat cheese and cream dip, the most incredible 884 day aged proscuitto from a danish pork leg made the same way as spanish jamon. the charcoal grilled shiitake with ‘katsuoboshi’ made of tuna from neighbouring coasts was pretty convincing, and the pork tongue, boiled in a broth then dried with an intense baby crab garum.

the meal wouldn’t be perfect without their homemade pastas as an italian focused bistro, really want to have their dry aged beef tortellini with a beef garum and chive sauce again, sososo good. followed by their ‘signature’ smoked mussel spaghetti alla chittara, a rich and heavenly sauce pairing oh so well with the perfectly al dente noodles which somewhat resembled udon. definitely a spot worth seeking out, and please try to somehow book for the chefs table (try emailing?) for this incredible tasting experience.
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chefs table tasting (1200dkk)
elderflower soda, sugar snaps
oyster no oyster
giardiniera
✨courgette blossom
✨mackerel
kohlrabi, celtus, mint
✨884 days aged proscuitto
✨danish shiitake
cod tonque, shiso
✨pork tongue, crab garum
summer vegetables
ravioli, pesto, yogurt
✨short rib tortellini
✨smoked mussel spaghetti
cod loin
tiramisú, stawberry & whey
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would revisit: yes
reservations online
price range pp: 1000dkk-3000dkk
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📍IL BUCO
location: njalsgade 19c, 2300 køvenhaven
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in copenhagen, denmark (april’24)

an enjoyable dinner here at jatak, i love the minimalistic ideology, focusing on one key ingredient per plate with asian inspired flavours. most the meal had a strong acidic profile, and had a lot of sichuan peppercorn numbingness making the meal overall flat in flavour profile so i guess i wish there could have been a bit more ups and downs. overall good dishes with solid cooking but no wows, i loved the kitchen counter view and would want to come back to see how the kitchen and menu has evolved.

began the meal with a fried celeriac topped with roe and some appetising raw seafood to open our palates. the squid cut like thin noodles was really tasty, followed by a small serving of the grilled tentacles. i really liked the homemade rice noodles, brightly acidic broth with strong notes from the grilled leek. the fried skate wing with a quince puree was also another favourite of the night, as well as the fried jerusalem artichoke which i normally can’t stand, paired well with a black bean miso and tomato sauce. the oyster chawanmushi had a bit too much going on for me, with a sichuan chilli and vinegar dressing, but the fjord shrimp with sambal fried rice i enjoyed. ended with a pork platter of different cuts and serving which i enjoyed, before using offcuts to make skewers and gyozas which was pretty cool. the chanterelle based cheesecake took a bit of adjusting but ended with some nice desserts overall.
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tasting menu: (1250dkk)
celtuce: whitebait roe, szechuan pepper
pike perch: salisfy, seabuckthorn
✨squid: agretti and nasturtium kosho
✨rice noodles: leek and ramson
✨skate wing: rosehip, blackpepper, quince
oysteer: heiderot potato, ancho chilli
✨fjord shrimps: koshihikari rice, cosne, sambal
sunchoke: green tomato, long pepper miso
hindsholm pork: endive and chinese mustard
lonquat sorbet: barley and ceylon cinnamon
japanese cheesecake: chanterelles, sotofte milk
milky oolong donut
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would revisit: yes
reservations online
price range pp: 1000dkk-3000dkk
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📍JATAK
location: rantzausgade 39, copenahahgen
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in copenhagen, denmark (april’24)

some (recovered) images from this years ocean season.

some hits & missed in terms of flavour as anticipated, but overall prefer this season over game and forest season. still one of the coolest experimental kitchens with out of the box thinking despite them getting lazier and more commercial. bookings aren’t impossible too, as long as you enter the site on time with a timeslot or two in mind + a registered tock account logged in and ready to go.
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ocean season menu (3995dkk)
+ juice pairing +1600dkk
✨whole cooked langoustine
mussel broth with bergamot
✨seaweed á la crème
✨blue mussel and golden beets
✨fresh sea urchin and hazelnuts
raw squid on grilled koji
cod roe waffle
hand dived scallop
cod head: tongue on the bone, eye pie
throat and young garlic
jaw with smoked pumpkin
barbequed burbot
hazelnut with kelp
✨sweet oyster
✨snobrod
clam gel
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📍NOMA 2.0
location: rejshalevej 96, copenhagen
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in copenhagen, denmark (april’24)

arriving back to copenhagen for a very anticipated dinner at koan, where chef kristiann draws from his korean heritage fused with danish ingredients to create a unique and awe inspiring meal. really love the space facing the waterfront, decorated with an oriental wooden interior in a sleek, high-ceiling space.

probably the most beautifully decorated plates, embellished with ample flowers and herbs, from the beginning showcasing a plate of bites that are almost too pretty to eat, brightening our palates before the meal. some very interesting and delicious bites, such as a lobster cold handmade noodles with local pomelo, the most beautiful pine nut tofu with preserved strawberry, langoustine and goji before coated in a layer of caviar. amazing korean donut, kkwabaegi with cream, very similar to the chinese style, 牛脷酥, so good to mop up all the amazing beef and lobster butter sauce from the bbq langoustines dish. the savouries were round up with a rice dish mixed with fjord shrimps, salmon roe with generous amounts of seasoning, and a caramelised rice which i preferred, with scallop and ample seaweed with a texture of a jok/congee. ending with one of the best souffles i’ve had with oolong tea paired with a seaweed ice cream and petite fours.

a very memorable dinner, and was further impressed with the team’s 4hands dinner the next month with london’s ikoyi. a highly recommended stop when in copenhagen.
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tasting menu (3300dkk)
✨seasonal bites
✨chilled lobster noodles
white kimchi
✨tofu & oscietra caviar
spring mandoo
the flavours of sundae
✨langoustine & rib eye
gamasot rice & fjord shrimps
langoustine claw salad
✨norwegian scallop & caramelised rice
✨oolong tea souffle, seaweed ice cream
petite fours
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would revisit: yes
reservations online
price range pp: over 3000dkk
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📍KOAN
location: langeliniekaj 5, 2100 københavn, denmark
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