PELLEGRINO Tokyo

A hidden Italian restaurant with only six seats. Since reservations can only be made for two or more, I invited another person to join me. The course costs JPY 120,000 and includes either an alcohol pairing or a non-alcohol pairing. The alcohol pairing mainly features Italian wines, while the non-alcohol pairing consists of tea. I opted for the alcohol pairing this time, but the non-alcohol pairing looked equally delicious, so I believe either choice would be a hit.The course is divided into two parts: the first part is a full Italian course without dessert, and the second part features a course with prosciutto and dessert. The total time spent is about four hours, but it didn't feel long at all; I thoroughly enjoyed it.Regarding the food, my honest opinion about the first part is that it was an overwhelming display of high-quality ingredients. Given the price of JPY 120,000, they generously used luxurious ingredients, and the dishes were structured to maximize the flavors of those ingredients, making them truly delicious. However, this might be a matter of personal preference, as there were several dishes where I felt they could have used a bit more salt, which was a slight disappointment.The second part, focusing on prosciutto, was an incredibly moving experience for someone like me who loves prosciutto. This section allows you to enjoy three types of prosciutto, all of which are delicious on their own. Additionally, each type of prosciutto is served with two recommended ways to enjoy it by the chef, providing a fresh experience until the end. The final dessert was also quite tasty, and overall, I felt a great sense of satisfaction from the entire experience.In summary, this is an Italian restaurant that I highly recommend visiting at least once. The course price is quite high, but strangely, I didn't feel it was poor value after finishing. I believe it offers a very unique experience, so if you can make a reservation, I would definitely recommend it. Less

Some may call a person with exceptional talent a genius, but this chef embodies a unique combination of remarkable skill and an intense pursuit of perfection, truly making him a "mastermind."There are various approaches to Italian cooking, but here, the focus is on highlighting the ingredients, using minimal seasoning and sauces for just the right touch of flavor.And yet, the result is incredibly delicious.This Italian cuisine thrives on the quality of its ingredients.This time, the standout dish was undoubtedly the filet steak. It was my favorite among all the meats I've tried, and as of today, it ranks as the best I've ever had!Reservations can be challenging, but I will definitely return! Less

I visited Pellegrino, an Italian restaurant in Ebisu. My friend regularly makes reservations, so I occasionally tag along, but this was my first visit in about a year, making it around my fifth time here. This place has the world’s best prosciutto slicer (probably the same one as at Aca and Fujinaga), and they serve the prosciutto on the back of your hand. Everything from the appetizers is delicious. It’s a restaurant worth trying at least once in your life, but since they operate with just one staff member, the meal takes over three hours from start to finish. Also, the prices have increased even more since my last visit; the tea course without alcohol was JPY 120,000. The recent price hikes at this hard-to-book restaurant are quite remarkable. But for us wealthy patrons, it’s actually a good thing since it makes it easier to get a reservation. Less

A unique Parma-style Italian restaurant in the Ebisu area. Although it operates for lunch and dinner, it only opens three days a week with just six seats, making reservations quite challenging. I managed to secure a spot, starting at 5 PM on a weekday. The owner has a warm and friendly aura. They use high-quality ingredients and offer a unique selection of wines. While enjoying the food and drinks, I searched for information about the ingredients and chatted with the neighboring table. It took about four hours, but it felt like only two. During the wine pairing, they served a tea with the fragrance of osmanthus, which reminded me of BVLGARI shampoo (laughs). I love that scent! Less

This Italian restaurant is located in Hiroo. Until last year, it was a highly acclaimed establishment, operating only four days a week with just six seats and a single seating per day. It felt like visiting someone’s kitchen, with a rather unique atmosphere as we sat side by side at the table. The wine cellar boasts top-level wines, akin to Italy's DRC, and Chef Takahashi expressed his desire to pair them all, leaving me pondering when I might get to enjoy them. The pairings we had today included Ulysse Collin, which had a floral aroma even more pronounced than Gewürztraminer (I quickly finished it and asked for a refill), and a remarkable wine called Dike, which poured a generous 70cc. With such incredible wines, I no longer felt that the total bill of JPY 120,000 was excessive. The vegetables were simply outstanding. The pureed pepper soup and corn soup are the best in Japan—there's no other place that can compare. It's astonishing; the richness of these ingredients can only be achieved through careful hand-straining. Even if someone claimed cream was added, I wouldn’t be surprised, but it’s purely from the ingredients. Additionally, the top-tier Berkel vintage, which costs tens of millions, is owned by only two in Japan, and it seems one was taken to Taiwan. Chef Takahashi skillfully operates it to create ultra-thin slices, with a texture so delicate it could be called almost ham-like, perfectly warmed by the temperature of the hand. The plates are all beautifully presented, and when you place that ham on fried bread, it looks stunning with its vibrant colors. Of course, it’s also delicious when wrapped around melon or sushi rice. Less

In 2023, the theme was "Surprise."In 2024, it will be "Understanding."And in 2026, it will be "Dialogue."After my third visit to Pellegrino, those words came to mind.During my first visit, I was overwhelmed."I became unsure of what I should eat for the rest of my life."That’s how shocking it was.By the second visit, I was a bit more composed.I was trying to understand what Chef Takahashi was thinking and aiming for, as well as the structure and intention behind his dishes.And now, this time.While enjoying the meal, I felt as if I was in dialogue with Chef Takahashi.Of course, it wasn’t just through words.The selection of ingredients.The cooking techniques.The wine.And the prosciutto.All of it felt like questions posed by Chef Takahashi.What impressed me most about this course was its focus on "subtraction."Hokkigai (surf clam)Princess paprikaMebaru (rockfish)Asparagus sauvageNone of the dishes flaunted complex sauces or techniques.Rather, they concentrated on how much of the natural aroma and umami of the ingredients could be drawn out.◆ First, the broth made from a whole Nagano Ina Gitaro chicken.The umami of the chicken is concentrated, yet it has an astonishing clarity.With each sip, I felt my body quietly awakening.I’ve had this every time, but once again, it was an important cup that indicated the direction of the course.◆ Hokkigai from Kamishihoro, Hokkaido.Italian zucchini TronbettaTaggiasca olivesThe combination of ingredients is simple, yet the sweetness and briny aroma of the hokkigai vividly stand out.◆ The dish featuring Princess paprika was also wonderful.I was once again surprised that such a common ingredient as paprika could possess such rich sweetness and aroma.Wild mushrooms (San Jorge) and burrata cheese accompanied it, but the star was undoubtedly the paprika.◆ Botan ebi (sweet shrimp) from Shimamaki, Hokkaido.ArtichokeFruit tomatoThe sweetness of the botan ebi is overwhelming.However, this time, the slight bitterness of the artichoke left a lasting impression.It enhances the sweetness while tightening the overall dish.◆ The dish featuring Mebaru was one of the highlights of this meal.A soup concentrated with seafood umamiAsparagus sauvageSalsa verdeAnd saffronAt first glance, it may seem like a strong combination for the fish, but due to the exquisite cooking, the Mebaru maintains its presence throughout.It was a dish that reaffirmed Chef Takahashi's cooking skills.◆ I was particularly impressed by the pasta dish.Right in front of me, the dough was rolled out, cut, and boiled.Vibrant pestoAnd Caluga caviarAt first, I thought it was a caviar dish.But it was different.The main focus was on the pasta, the pesto, and the wheat.The caviar existed to amplify the aroma and umami.What was even more intriguing was when Chef Takahashi mentioned, "I believe that currently, Chinese caviar is the best."Honestly, I was a bit surprised.I had my own preconceived notions that caviar came from Russia or Iran.But when I think about it, the entire course was like that.Choosing what is currently in the best condition, rather than focusing on brands or traditions.This episode beautifully illustrated that attitude.◆ The main dish, the fillet of Yazawa beef, was magnificent once again.The center was a glossy rose color.The cooking was in a unique realm that was neither rare nor medium.The accompanying Kamo eggplant was also wonderful, harmonizing beautifully with the strength of the meat.And then, part two.A massive Italian manual slicer sat prominently.This time, I was strongly drawn to the slicer itself.Where did it come from?Why was I so captivated by prosciutto?I pondered these questions as I gazed at it.◆ Breasaola made from Yazawa beef shikinbo.◆ Mortadella.◆ 48-month aged Jamón Ibérico de Bellota.The prosciutto, sliced to the extreme thinness, was a world where aroma was savored more than texture.When received in the palm of my hand, the warmth from my body melted the fat, releasing its fragrance.It felt less like eating and more like connecting with the ingredient of prosciutto.The wine was also wonderful.Starting with Ulysse Collin Champagne, followed by Aldo Conterno, Gravner, Giuseppe Rinaldi, Il Paradiso, and Conterno.It wasn’t just a showcase of high-end wines.It expressed the value of aging through the dishes.The presence of Gravner was particularly impressive.The complexity that transcended typical white wine beautifully resonated with the botan ebi and seafood dishes.If I were to summarize this visit to Pellegrino in one phrase,"A course of ingredients and aging."AromaCooking techniquesAgingAnd timeChef Takahashi is getting closer to the ingredients than ever before.And while savoring the dishes, I was contemplating where the chef is headed.My third visit was not only a time to enjoy the food but also a quiet dialogue with the chef.It was a great meal. Less

Nestled in a residential area of Ebisu, the intimate restaurant "PELLEGRINO" features just six seats. Established in Nishiazabu in 2009, it relocated to its current location in 2015. Chef Hayato Takahashi focuses on the traditional cuisine of Emilia-Romagna, which he studied in Parma. The kitchen and dining area are seamlessly integrated, allowing him to personally deliver each dish, ensuring that every plate captures its most delicious moment. This meticulous approach is the hallmark of the restaurant.The course menu is divided into two parts. The first part showcases seasonal ingredients and precise cooking techniques. The second part highlights the manual slicer, diving deep into the world of prosciutto and salumi. Rather than simply serving prosciutto as an appetizer, it is presented as an independent chapter. This bold structure embodies the unique world of Takahashi.The first part begins with "Brodo."A clear broth made from a whole Kanagawa Danza black chicken, simmered with just water. While it appears crystal clear, the depth of flavor is astonishingly rich. Instead of aggressively stimulating the palate, it quietly seeps into the body. By sharpening the contours of the ingredients without adding anything unnecessary, it sets the stage for a focused tasting experience."Paprika" features Shizuoka-grown paprika paired with Scamorza Dolce and French wild mushrooms, San Jorge. The slowly cooked paprika exudes a sweetness reminiscent of fruit rather than vegetables. This is complemented by a creamy dairy flavor and earthy aromas. The contrasting elements come together harmoniously in the mouth."Shiro Amadai" is served with flower zucchini and Taggiasca olives from the Bungo Suido region. The use of binchotan charcoal enhances the delicate sweetness of the fish. The slight bitterness of the flower zucchini and the saltiness of the olives provide a perfect accent, while the charcoal aroma elevates the fish's flavor without overpowering it."Botan Ebi" from Hokkaido's Furubira is rich and sweet, layered with the bitterness of artichokes and the acidity of fruit tomatoes. The sweetness is not overwhelming; instead, the bitterness and acidity enhance the shrimp's flavor, creating a multi-dimensional taste."Kitakuri Clam" from Hokkaido's Osakikamijima is cooked to a medium doneness, showcasing a pleasant elasticity upon biting, followed by a gradual release of sweetness. The fresh aroma of French asparagus sauvage and vibrant salsa verde intersect with the clam's sweetness, leaving a light, refreshing aftertaste."Tagliolini" features a combination of Karuga caviar and basil. With a simple yet bold composition of pine nuts, basil, and salt, the generously piled caviar delivers bursts of saltiness and umami. The fresh aroma of basil, the chewy texture of the pasta, and the sensual finish of the caviar create a delightful experience without feeling heavy."Yazawa Beef" is a fillet from Hokkaido's Biei, served with Kamo eggplant from Ayabe, Kyoto. The beautifully grilled red meat releases its juices and umami with each bite, while the Kamo eggplant complements it with its own sweetness.The "Amaama Musume Soup" that appeared in between is unforgettable. Made with just water and salt, it does not merely showcase the sweetness of corn but carefully extracts the underlying aromas. Despite its richness, the aftertaste is surprisingly light—a testament to the skill of a chef who fully trusts his ingredients.And now, the second part.The signal for the next course rings out, and the manual slicer in front of me begins to move quietly. This is Chef Hayato Takahashi's stage."Bresaola" is made from the Nakaniwa cut of Yazawa beef. Comparing different thicknesses reveals a surprising variety of expressions from the same ingredient. The ultra-thin slices dissolve instantly upon contact with the tongue, while slightly thicker pieces showcase the meat's fibers and aging aroma. When layered on bread spread with fermented butter, the dairy flavor and meat's umami create a new dimension. The act of slicing here becomes a form of cooking in itself."Mortadella" is sliced so thin that it is almost translucent. The moment it falls onto the back of my hand, the fat begins to react to my body temperature. Once in my mouth, the sweetness of the meat and the aroma of pistachios dissolve almost effortlessly. When layered on freshly fried "Torta Fritta," the heat, fat, and light texture combine, accelerating the deliciousness.And then, the "Kintoa Black Pig Prosciutto."Here, the experience speaks louder than words. The ultra-thin slice placed on my hand releases its aroma before I even eat it, and once on my tongue, the fat melts away, leaving a lingering taste of aging and salt. Paired with melon, the sweetness of the fruit and the saltiness of the prosciutto intersect, elevating the classic "prosciutto e melone" to another dimension. The combination with rice is equally surprising; the warmth of freshly cooked rice melts the fat, intertwining the sweetness of the rice with the aging aroma. This is a blissful handshake between Italy and Japan. If such "prosciutto e melone" or "prosciutto rice" exists, what have I been eating until now?Prosciutto has long been synonymous with this restaurant. However, with the two-part structure, its allure has become even more vivid. The first part showcases the precision of ingredients and cooking techniques, while the second part stirs the palate through the act of slicing alone. The subtle differences in thickness, temperature, and accompanying ingredients create entirely different experiences from the same meat. It feels less like dining and more like witnessing the thought process of Chef Hayato Takahashi up close. This is an experience everyone should have at least once in their lifetime. No, once is not enough. It was a great meal. Less