Peter Verey

Have not had Portuguese food for a while so I made a maiden visit to Chiado . This is the first international outpost of 2 Michelin star chef Henrique Sa Pessoa .
There are two tasting menus as well as a la carte options and the menu is 90% seafood .

I chose the “entry level” tasting menu which showcases the chef’s signature dishes from early in his career . I won’t lie the dishes did appear a bit dated but one can hardly gripe about this when ordering a “historical” menu .

Kicking off was Tuna tataki with carrot escebeche and tomato concasse . Eating in Japan has spoilt me for Tuna quality but if you look past that this was a nice balanced dish .

Lobster was served with different textures of corn and almonds , this needed stronger seasoning imo .

Suckling pig confit was a triumph , paired with turnip top greens , pickled onions and lighter jus . This dish was all about the tender and smoky Iberian acorn fed pork . Will definitely order this a la carte in a future visit .

Wagyu strip loin came with intriguing garnishes , banana jam , parsnips and BBQ jus . Have to admit i loved the banana.

Razor clam rice was topped with barely set scallops and green curry oil . Having just cooked risotto the night before , I did come to the realisation that I do enjoy the starch in risotto more than the Portuguese rice which has very seperate grains .

Pre dessert was a fun combination of sea fennel , dashi and honeydew .

Finally an excellent Chocolate and caramel bomba with hazelnut sorbet , this looked super rich but delivered in flavour without murdering your stomach . Less

Back to Neighbourhood for more rustic and smashable dishes .

Started with a terrine of heirloom tomatoes with burrata - a great spin of a global appetiser staple . The tomato terrine was vibrant and had a great sweetness and acidity .
Beef tartare with Shima ebi , the prawn meat is served raw , the prawn oil seasons the beef and the prawn shells and head add texture . Sustainable and delicious .
Tough to avoid ordering the grilled baby squid , sizzling in garlic and perfect to mop up with bread .

Mussels were served with a light rockfish soup , again satisfying and addictive .

Local small fish were fried with a light dusting of flour and served with lemon and horseradish cream , the fish equivalent of eating popcorn .

Finally , the salt baked chicken - the 120 day old New Territories chicken is a great vehicle for this technique, the flesh is full of flavour and super tender. Chicken rice has plenty of chicken oil and soccarat . Plus a generous serve of Chicken offal is scattered thru the rice , I imagined chicken liver served this way would be dry and overcooked but that was certainly not the case , also chicken testicles are rather delicious . Less

With 32 years of experience in Kyoto Kaiseki it is no surprise that Nagomoto San delivers a faultless Kaiseki experience @nagamotohk .

Hyper seasonal menu which was solid throughout . Highlights were an outstanding Sashimi course with a perfectly textured duo of Ika , and excellent Kinmedai proving to be my favourites.
Surf clam with a refreshing grated apple sauce was vibrant and fresh .
Both the Wagyu and rice courses felt homely and nourishing.
Vibe is professional yet relaxed and both chefs and service team are having fun .
A fun experience !

Shirako / Maitake mushroom / Celery

Surimi with crabmeat / Turnip / Shitake mushroom

Selected sashimi

Mackerel Sushi / Turnip vinegar pickled

Sea urchin / Ebi-imo
Miso crab / Caviar / Lotus root rice cracker / Persimmon with salad pickled

Salt-grilled yellowtail / Shibazuke pickled

Surf clam / Grated apple vinegar

Wagyu beef sukiyaki

Grilled salmon pot rice / Salmon roe / Mushroom starchy sauce /
Miso soup / Pickled vegetables

Seasonal fruits / Japanese sweets / Matcha tea Less

Long overdue first visit to @cheftamsseasons , primarily a grazing dim sum lunch today but it did wet the appetite to return soon and try the tasting menus and the largest list of Chinese wines that I have seen so far , plenty of experiences to unearth !

All the dim sum were excellent today , a goose and celery spring roll was very crisp and satisfying.
The pork steamed bun leant traditional and was largely sugar free , the char Siu filling was excellent.
Lamb and fennel dumpling did not have the shape of Xiao long bao but did also have the piping hot liquid centre which was decidedly moorish .
Finally a crab and truffle tartlet which gave vol au vent vibes but all the ingredients stood out alongside the very short pastry .

The main dish for today is my fav winter preparation from the region , a lamb belly claypot with bamboo , mushroom, Chinese lettuce . While the weather is still too warm for this dish to be truly nourishing the soul , I could not resist ordering it . I make sure to order this at least 3-4 times over the “winter” months , love it ! Less

I booked Neigbourhood with the intention of having some heartier dishes as the weather was sure to be cooler . It was “cooler” but still a balmy 30 degrees so the order became fairly light , but it was certainly satisfying !

Abalone and porcini was the standout dish , the porcini was tender and slippery , the abalone ribbons beautifully yielding , a light emulsion , some espelette and some bitter greens gave this great balance .

Prior to this some quality Parma culatello, I used to be in the “don’t order charcuterie in restaurants because I can buy at home “ camp , but living in Asia getting quality charcuterie is easier said than done . This hit of salty pork is a great start to a menu .

Fried baby whiting with horseradish cream were crispy and addictive .

The lentil, coddled egg and caviar salad is a @davidtlai staple . The egg is the dressing and the backbone of the dish , the texture contrast between the al dente lentils and the caviar is fun too .

A complimentary dish of Japanese greens with amazing persimmon and Parmesan shavings was a terrific palate cleanser . Thanks to the kitchen for sending it out .

Finally a simplified Mille feuille rounded out the meal , the pastry was super crisp and lacquered , with cream and freeze dried raspberries adding points of interest .

Have booked Neighbourhood again in a couple of weeks , maybe it will be a couple of degrees cooler then ! Less

I was very curious when @mora_hongkong launched during the pandemic . A fine dining restaurant dedicated to Soy ..? I assumed it would be vegetarian, I was wrong . I assumed the range of flavours might be limited , I was wrong .
The multi course menu traverses across layers of textures and despite soy being featured in every dish there was no issue with any monotony. Rather it was a terrific and delicious education .

My favourite dish was a perfect scallop accompanied by a fermented tofu clam jus which had a nice restrained funk to it , beneath the scallop was a layer of fresh tofu skin and garlic and Shiso oils brought the aromatics .

A bean curd tartlet started the meal , the tart shell also made of tofu skin could easily fool anyone that they weren’t having pastry , the filling contrasted soy with pumpkin and chestnut along with a pumpkin seed pesto .

Deep fried tofu wasn’t at all oily , matched with a powerful sesame sauce and tender local baby squid .

Abalone noodle was also a standout , the broth here stood tall , a combination of soy milk and chicken bouillon it was beautifully thick and creamy . This was very reminiscent to the mouthfeel of a good carbonara .

A choice of Roasted Duck or Crispy Threadfin for main course , both proteins were perfectly cooked , the soy components were hard tofu and smoked soy beans respectively.

Lap Cheong Sausage rice was a homely savoury finale , soy bean paste gave it excellent length on the palate .

Cannot go wrong with Tofu pudding as dessert , alongside Black rice ice cream and persimmon compote , this rounded out a truly enjoyable meal . Less

A quiet dim sum lunch is one of Macau’s great pleasures .

Zi Yat Heen is a perfect spot for ordering all the classics .

Hairy crab Xiao long bao
Abalone puff with mixed mushrooms
Chaozhou style pork dumpling ( love these )
Har Gao

And for something clean to finish , tiger prawns with Gai lan and olive .

Some pu’er tea , an oaky Chardonnay and it’s a recipe for serene enjoyment . Less

Pleasure to return to @alainducasseatmorpheusmacau and catch up on what @cedricsatabin and his team are working toward . A slight rejig of the direction of the menu has them currently focusing on both Signature dishes from Mr.Ducasse portfolio and also slight twists on traditional French favourites.

The first adjustment occurred in the opening dish , the famous Gamberoni dish with crustacean gelee had been slightly altered . Scottish langoustine is now the hero ingredient , it is lightly marinated in olive oil and the heads are used to create a creamy emulsion , a light fish broth compliments along with the caviar . The dish looks the same at first glance but is noticeably lighter on the palate .

Foie Gras is steamed ( a new preparation for me , although apparently it is a little old school ) and paired with a terrific fig and duck ham tart , more fig garnish and duck jus round out the plate .

Hokkaido scallops are gently seared and armed with a scallop skirt beurre Blanc , elements of seaweed and watercress punctuate a dish full of classic flavours .

A superbly cooked Guinea fowl is the final savoury salvo , along with two chicken jus of different weight and taste which amalgamate beautifully .

The cheese course is unchanged and the Comte is always a sure bet .

An extra dessert from the team of @jonathanduranm and @dongniixu was gleefully accepted , especially as i am very fond of Apple desserts . This was a precise take on Tarte Tatin alongside an excellent buckwheat ice cream .

The final dessert was a myriad of Chocolate and coffee textures , the coffee using Ethiopian beans were fruity rather than overpowering .

Wine service was as usual outstanding with much joy found in a Single Vineyard Jaquesson Champagne of which only 2500 bottles are produced and my first Tango with Chateau Ausone was even more memorable. Less

Have not had Portuguese food for a while so I made a maiden visit to Chiado . This is the first international outpost of 2 Michelin star chef Henrique Sa Pessoa .
There are two tasting menus as well as a la carte options and the menu is 90% seafood .

I chose the “entry level” tasting menu which showcases the chef’s signature dishes from early in his career . I won’t lie the dishes did appear a bit dated but one can hardly gripe about this when ordering a “historical” menu .

Kicking off was Tuna tataki with carrot escebeche and tomato concasse . Eating in Japan has spoilt me for Tuna quality but if you look past that this was a nice balanced dish .

Lobster was served with different textures of corn and almonds , this needed stronger seasoning imo .

Suckling pig confit was a triumph , paired with turnip top greens , pickled onions and lighter jus . This dish was all about the tender and smoky Iberian acorn fed pork . Will definitely order this a la carte in a future visit .

Wagyu strip loin came with intriguing garnishes , banana jam , parsnips and BBQ jus . Have to admit i loved the banana.

Razor clam rice was topped with barely set scallops and green curry oil . Having just cooked risotto the night before , I did come to the realisation that I do enjoy the starch in risotto more than the Portuguese rice which has very seperate grains .

Pre dessert was a fun combination of sea fennel , dashi and honeydew .

Finally an excellent Chocolate and caramel bomba with hazelnut sorbet , this looked super rich but delivered in flavour without murdering your stomach . Less

After over a dozen visits to @ottoemezzobombana_macau , I was still surprised by a very different experience last night . A moment of undecidedness on my behalf propelled chef @riccardolaperna to offer to cook a tailored degustation menu . Over 10 courses , a kitchen tour ( which included tasting a ton of various sauces/ infusions ) , I developed a new found understanding of the backbone of the kitchen philosophy here . Flavour , lightness , respecting tradition , precision .

The menu started with Spanish tuna Akami and chutoro crudo with calamari, kaluga caviar and a Mediterranean inspired dashi. The seafood was delicate but it’s the “dashi “ that really took my attention . Smoked eggplant and dried seafood paste is used as the katsuobushi style ingredient and the balance of umami , smoke and acidity is spot on .

My questions then prompted the kitchen tour where I learned that all stocks and sauces are made here on the basis of infusion , usually from dehydrated ingredients . No stock is boiled and reduced . This was a definitive answer as to why the food here can be light yet still pack plenty of flavour .

Brittany lobster with puntarelle ,lobster consommé infusion and lobster bisque foam continued the menu . The lobster was soft and tender and the consommé very well rounded .

My favourite dish of the night followed. Deceptively simple, undeniably delicious. Fassone beef tenderloin “Milanese” style , the protein is not fried hard and is a perfectly set rare. The white truffle complimented the meat beautifully and then it turned out the green salad with herb dressing was so perfectly balanced and seasoned, that it somehow stole the show.

A liquified foie gras and Parmesan ravioli had amazing mouthfeel with the Parmesan luxuriously coating the palate , the accompanying beef and chicken infusion again had plenty of body .

The simplest dish followed , egg Taglioni with a touch of Parmesan cream and a generous amount of very fragrant white truffle . This simple dish was all about aroma .

Continued in the comments …. Less