Peter Verey

After many years of opening restaurants for Joel Robuchon in Japan and beyond , Chef Yosuke Suga opened up Sugalabo to universal acclaim . Now an invitation only restaurant , it is perhaps the most revered address for western dining in Japan .

Having eaten at many Robuchon around the world , it is clear that Suga has his own distinct style . Some nods to classics permeate the menu but foremost the cooking is confident and personal .

Despite having around 7-8 staff , Chef is extremely hands on , doing the majority of the cooking , plating and diner dish descriptions himself .
Instructions are given on how to eat each dish and our dining group was admonished several times for being unable to follow simple instructions! However it’s all in good spirit and Chef Suga had plenty of swagger and charisma .

A series of snacks culminated with a plate of 24 month Ham from Mr.Tada , a very limited producer of quality ham . The ham was thin, transparent and glided down your throat and basically melted .

Saga oysters - a generous trio were served with prized seaweed on which they feed on , a fun take .

High quality Foie Gras was paired with a potato salad , the potatoes had been aged for over a year in a snow cave . This was an old school but refined diah.

Two large discs of raw Hokkaido scallop were the drown atop a quenelle of scallop mousse which in turn was stuffed with abundant caviar . Rounding out the dish was a moat of Scallop roe beurre Blanc

Kinki from Hokkaido was unctuous, served with black truffle, daikon and a Kinki Shirako and dashi .

The Satsuma Wagyu was the dish of the night , tenderloin which amazingly had the texture of brisket , a luscious morel mushroom jus , and a light but banging Morel and Asparagus gratin.

The off - menu Japanese curry is a Sugalabo trademark , you can choose the size of your portion, and not being a Japanese curry fan , I chose the smallest option. This was a mistake as the curry sauce was redolent in individual spices and terrific .

Pre dessert was a mint sorbet , pomelo sorbet , and rice wine jelly with pomelo pieces . Great palate adjustment.

Strawberry/Rhubarb compote with Sake sorbet completed a memorable meal Less

Do not possess enough superlatives for this one . A 33 year old chef is creating absolute magic here , cannot fault the execution, the concept of dishes, the vibe , the service , all exemplary . There is a reason that Yamazaki is booked solid for the next 12 months .
(So joining @jtfoodcation may be the best way to secure the experience)
Would donate an organ to come back ….

Clean and sweet start with Hamaguri clam broth, and sweet early season Bamboo. A super simple dish but had great harmony .

Steamed Mochi rice , tempura of smelt and lily bulb with caviar . The caviar serves as the salt for the tempura . Balanced !

Shirako is chargrilled and is a pontoon in the midst of white miso broth with sweet daikon, and romanesco .

The best Eel of my life followed , charred brilliantly, mild in flavour , with spring vegetables in white miso paste

Kinmedai was indeed splendid , grilled aggressively on the coals , the end result was stupefying, shattering skin and mi cuit flesh . Paired with cabbage in chicken dashi .

Snow crab was bursting with oceanic sweetness, the sauce made from crab roe and sake . Stunning .

The body of the crab was turned into a croquette with Kuruma ebi , the prawn also turned into the sauce .

Duck was perfectly cooked and paired with a European style black garlic sauce , light but powerful.

Rice course was a highlight and despite the group being full, we pretty much all had seconds . Served with Mountain wasabi blossoms which received a good burst of wok Hei , herring roe and the perfect egg yolk .

Dessert was another case of ingenuity , chestnut skin is ground then infused in milk before being reduced and turned into the creamiest of gelato. The flesh is mashed and turned into brûlée . Less

The Tokyo trip really sprang into top gear at Sushi Arai last night . Tabelog gold rated and while I’m far from a sushi expert , this seems absolutely appropriate.

The quirky photo policy limits photos to Tuna only , and the Maguro was certainly a highlight , great mouthfeel , distinct aroma , absolutely filled the palate .

Other highlights included -

Hamaguri clam steamed in its juices and served with olive oil
Scallop , Oba leaf and Nori roll
Kujira - Whale - only my second time with whale and this was incredible . Using the tail muscle of Icelandic whale , the texture and perfect fat content ratio was memorable .
Ankimo and pickled watermelon - this was requested by my host , an off menu dish that Chef Arai hasn’t made for several years , but he was happy to oblige us .
Saba - Spanish mackerel - so different to the Australian species of this fish, richer yet somehow sharper and less buttery

Many thanks to @jtfoodcation and @chi.champagnefeast for making it all happen .

It’s going to be a great week !! Less

A glimpse of Kyoto Kaiseki in Tokyo . Miyasaka is Michelin starred and Tablelog silver , the food is understated, well curated and overall satisfying .

Highlight was the rice course , the rice was “niebana” freshly cooked, so over the course of 10 minutes it transformed from al dente to “perfect” to a little over as it rested in the claypot , the differences in flavour were also pronounced as time went on .

Each broth or dashi served thru the meal were also excellent .

Boiled soft cod roe and Bean curd skin With Wild vegetables in White miso soup

Tuna and Flounder with Homemade kelp soy sauce

Steamed crab dumplings with rice cake in clear soup

Steamed SHOGOIN radish and “Tajimaguro” beef shabushabu style

Niebana steamed rice, Pickled vegetables, Dried young sardines,
Tuna and fried Red bream with lemon soy sauce

TSUBAKI-MOCHI Less

Boss Tanaka describes himself as a Meat Sommelier , after a life time in the trade he has built an empire , 18 restaurants in Japan with new ventures soon to open in Singapore and Dubai ( perhaps HK too ) .
Despite this he spends 6 nights a week , cooking for a counter of 9 guests at his flag ship restaurant . Work ethic is clearly insane .

For Nikuyatanaka Ginza , he buys an entire cow roughly every 2 weeks , he is looking for female cattle only , virgin and 45-51 months in age . This is roughly twice the age that Wagyu cattle are generally slaughtered . This results in a soft and tender flavour and slightly less fat .

The menu runs for 13 courses , 9 of which feature the beef .

47 month female Kobe beef - the first bite , tender and marbled , almost tastes like Maguro .

Beef and turbot roll- one of his signatures , clean and umami laden
Confit Botan shrimp with caviar - beautifully cooked shrimp
Kobe rump tataki - charcoal flavour comes thru , once again the meat and its juices is transcending

Fugu shirako with black truffle - shirako and truffle 👌

Beef tongue roast - this tongue was cooked in front of us for an around an hour , with various charcoal cooking methods . It was so light and flavourful

Shabu Shabu with oboro kelp - a little too subtle for me and found the kelp too strong

Ramen with beef consommé - great broth

Kobe beef tenderloin - I rarely order tenderloin but this was terrific , its temperature and texture was tender yet somehow reminiscent of raw squid , the skin approached Peking duck level of crisp and a light smoke ring had also formed despite minimal cooking . This was art . Less

Kicking off a week long food odyssey in Tokyo , most of the week will be piloted by @jtfoodcation , but for the next day or so I had the opportunity to add to the itinerary.
Beginning with @restauranthommage , open for 23 years and holder of 2 Michelin stars , it is one of the leaders of modern French - Japanese dining .

The menu weaves around both French and Japanese characteristics, and is absolutely rock solid with nary a false note and plenty of crescendos .

Oyster - Hokkaido oyster is served very cold , blanketed by champagne jelly , a smooth oyster cream and a punchy oyster sorbet .

Vichyssoise- 2 cold soups ( leek and potato ) interplay with a tower of Sturgeon rillette , beetroot tartare and caviar . Each layer of flavour is pronounced yet together they are a symphony .

Sea urchin/Foie gras/ Yuba
Tohu cream/ Yellow tail tart - despite a previous wave of amuse bouche ( not pictured ) , the third course brings us snacks , straight forward flavours and textures but all interesting and certainly enjoyed the unusual placement of this in the menu .

ShirakawaAmadai- Crispy scaled tilefish is faultless and married with turnips , rice and a light cream sauce .
Abalone- is served with a liver sauce which is lightened with lemon juice and white wine , the abalone is absurdly tender .

Roasted beef from Miyagi- not sure I have ever had Wagyu beef roasted in the oven as opposed to grilled , it’s a familiar roast beef flavour accentuated with a great chicken jus .

Rice puff flavored ice cream
Chocolate sorbet - 2 ice cream desserts , the rice is intensely savoury, the chocolate punctuated with chilli powder and paprika sauce
Jerusalem artichoke- a lovely light finish , Candied Sunchoke with a Sudaichi chiboust and a lemon syrup . Less

Somehow 6 months have flown by since my last Neighbourhood visit , so popping in for a quick bite before boarding an evening flight was the very least I could do . This visit just cemented that I have to return ASAP.

Sizzling and tender baby squid with a trinity of garlic , herbs and chilli pepper , all balanced and evoking strong Mediterranean vibes .

One of the better tartares that I have had ( and I essentially love them all ) , beef and Sicilian red shrimp is combined , the shrimp both chopped and left in pieces is a delightful sweet note , the herbaceous sauce which lies somewhere between an oil and a pesto is a great accompaniment. Absolute harmony

Revisited with an old fav , a hockey puck of black sausage , a perfect fried egg and a scattering of mushrooms .

Finally a Sichuan accented pigeon with terrific figs , very satisfying. Less

There is always something new to discover at Five foot road .
Like an intriguing Wok fried abalone with wheat (pasta?) that seemed to me to be essentially identical to fregola , paired with a sauce of minced pork and a variety of peppers . The chewiness of the fregola was extremely satisfying .

Cubed Australian Wagyu and porcini in mushroom sauce is a dish I have had a few times , the beef was terrifically juicy on this occasion.

Speaking of juicy the pan fried pork and water chestnut were certainly that , good robust flavour as well.

Chilled noodles were served with pickled chilli sauce , some Sichuan pepper, celery and shredded chicken . This would be a great summer lunch dish .

The final discovery was a glutinous rice and pork belly dish that is a traditional Sichuan CnY dish and can be served as the rice course or as dessert . The rice and pork were mixed with red bean, brown sugar and pistachios and was a very moorish finale.

Great meal as always and great to meet @alena.cym who has recently joined the FFR team ! Less

It’s only been 6 weeks since last eating @ta_vie_hk but it was certainly exciting to revisit . Quality of care and execution always meets all expectations!

Winter snow crab and artichoke gratin - a very homely dish , sweet crab and cheese gratin and then you are left with lovely artichoke petals to scrape your teeth into , it’s been a long time since I have had that opportunity as Artichoke is not seen often in the region .

Japanese winter turnip, 36 months aged Parma ham, and grilled Hokki clam - First bite was actually this trio which was served whole and also turned into a sauce and a consommé ( inspired by Chinese double boiled soups ) , a terrific winter welcome .

Poached Oyster, celeriac, spinach, Oscietra caviar sauce - the sauce did the heavy lifting here , decidedly salty it actually made the Hokkaido oyster taste sweet . A terrific balance .

House-made fresh pasta with “Aonori” sauce topped with premium Hokkaido uni- Aonori is a Japanese seaweed and it’s delightfully herbaceous, it stole the show more so than the uni .

Pan-seared fresh Brittany blue-lobster
with pied blue mushroom, “Tubu clam” Japanese whelk, and “Gobo” burdock- had this dish in December and was glad to see it again , the sauce which is a blend of the four key ingredients is a tour de force .

Charcoal grilled pigeon from Breese, France (medium rare) with leek, black truffle, horseradish, lemon confit

Gorgeous meaty pigeon , with simple garnish , a very satisfying course .

Japanese white strawberry with pistachio cream pistachio sable, white meringue- Simple and satisfying pre dessert served with Ruinart Rose , the dish and the champagnw both tasted incredibly similar .

Chocolate crêpe soufflé, with Tasmania cherry jam,
Tonka beans flavored ice cream- this is a terrific dessert , none of the elements over power each other , an always striking finale. Less

Feng Wei Ju doesn’t get the hype of its fellow Michelin 2 and 3 star venues in Macau . It’s infinitely more rustic and you can drop in for a very casual meal that will barely scrape your wallet . But the skill and execution of the “basics “ is peerless .

Perfectly yielding pork belly on a bed of preserved vegetables and dried chilli which constantly has you reaching for more .

Pan fried pork dumplings in Beijing style , the dumpling dough is hearty , the filling juicy but keeps its shape and delivers texture .

Steamed spotted grouper rests above an egg white and tofu custard , with pickled mustard greens . The custard is edible velvet .

Had to finish with a guilty pleasure , deep fried banana with toffee glaze . Impossible not to order . Less