Lucas Carton Paris

Awards

MICHELIN Guide

One star restaurant, 2024

All Michelin stars in Paris All Michelin stars in France All 1 star Michelin in Paris All 1 star Michelin in France

OAD

European Classical Restaurants 2024, 75

All OAD European Classical in Paris All OAD European Classical in France

Eatinerary's

Eatinerary's Locals Short List

Eatinerary's Locals Short List in Paris Eatinerary's Locals Short List in France

Gault & Millau

3 Torques, 2021

All Gault & Millau in Paris All Gault & Millau in France All Gault & Millau 3 Torques in Paris All Gault & Millau 3 Torques in France

Gault & Millau Public Mark

16.5 / 20

Chef

Hugo Bourny

Cuisine

Modern Cuisine

• 2024

Dinner at Lucas Carton Paris

on 26 May 2024

by Peter Verey

Lucas Carton was one of the iconic addresses in French gastronomy when the late Alain Sederens helmed the restaurant from 1985 to 2013 . He was the first chef to offer a wine pairing , he trained and influenced current 3 Michelin star icons Alain Passard and Christian Le Squer and late in his tenure he eschewed luxury ingredients instead preferring to make magic from humble produce , he was ground breaking in many respects .

These days Lucas Carton is owned by the Pommery champagne house and Chef... More

Lucas Carton was one of the iconic addresses in French gastronomy when the late Alain Sederens helmed the restaurant from 1985 to 2013 . He was the first chef to offer a wine pairing , he trained and influenced current 3 Michelin star icons Alain Passard and Christian Le Squer and late in his tenure he eschewed luxury ingredients instead preferring to make magic from humble produce , he was ground breaking in many respects .

These days Lucas Carton is owned by the Pommery champagne house and Chef Hugo Bourny is on the right track towards restoring the restaurant’s prestige standing .

The meal started with a bright and textural Langoustine carpaccio, smoked cream, bergamot gel , tapioca crisp and oscetra caviar . A nice dish where every ingredient played its role .

Leek was the star of the 2nd course , it appeared as caramelised, puréed and as a broth. Raw sea bream and a hint of ginger were the only complimentary additions.

Monkfish loin was lightly smoked then aged for 5 days before getting a quick sear , a moat of hawthorn and miso broth and a lively cabbage and horseradish slaw assured this was a light dish where once again every flavour profile stood out .

My favourite course was beef tenderloin which had been cured in Konbu and Bonito flakes , this semi cooked the protein and if only needed a little more heat to reach a rare but firm texture , akin to perfectly cooked pigeon . It was an intriguing and well executed preparation . Alongside was celeriac purée and sea bean bearnaise .

A dessert with various textures of grapefruit accented with kerala peppercorns rounded out a very pleasing lunch Less