João Wengorovius

I like to think that every time a new small, family-run restaurant opens, the world gets a little better.
Whenever I see another couple - and there are so many in restaurants around the world, usually one in the kitchen and the other in the dining room, but sometimes both in the kitchen - putting all their savings and love into a new project they already know won’t be easy, nor will it ever really be a thriving business on the scale that will make them rich. Because that’s not why they’re here. They’re here to surprise us, to delight us, to welcome us into a space that is an expression of themselves.
Because that’s their calling, that’s what they do best.
It’s in these places and these particular moments that you’re likely to find the best examples of true hospitality.
Not everything will be perfect and spotless eventually. You probably won’t even notice, and if you do, you won’t care. It is the beginning of something new. You are enjoying the energy boost too. You can see they’re making the most of their constraints, being imaginative and resourceful.
Food and drink arriving at the table is exciting. And they are happy to see you there.
What more could you ask for?
After years of working in restaurants in France, Portuguese couple @jose_neves1 and @claudiaabreudasilva returned to Lisbon last year to open @ciclo_restaurantelisboa
A small farm-to-table restaurant with a Portuguese ‘bistronomie’ approach, in the Mouraria district of Lisbon (very close to the always irreverent @taberna_do_calhau ), adding to my little theory. Less

There’s a very particular charm to the scale of this space, a table shared by only 12/14 guests, often people who don’t know each other, in a cosy atmosphere, impeccable and discreet aesthetics, a beautifully restored historic building, a small hotel for those in the know, one of Lisbon’s most original neighbourhoods.
I’ve been here several times and it’s always good to return to this communal table, to be surprised by new dishes (the kitchen has been run by @_renatobonfim_ since 2023), to enjoy a great non-alcoholic pairing conceived by Kristin Liebold (or to taste a wine recommended by sommelier Francisco Guilherme), and to meet other strangers, to open up to new conversations.
Each table has a story to tell and this one has many.
@ceia_table Less

I like to think that every time a new small, family-run restaurant opens, the world gets a little better.
Whenever I see another couple - and there are so many in restaurants around the world, usually one in the kitchen and the other in the dining room, but sometimes both in the kitchen - putting all their savings and love into a new project they already know won’t be easy, nor will it ever really be a thriving business on the scale that will make them rich. Because that’s not why they’re here. They’re here to surprise us, to delight us, to welcome us into a space that is an expression of themselves.
Because that’s their calling, that’s what they do best.
It’s in these places and these particular moments that you’re likely to find the best examples of true hospitality.
Not everything will be perfect and spotless eventually. You probably won’t even notice, and if you do, you won’t care. It is the beginning of something new. You are enjoying the energy boost too. You can see they’re making the most of their constraints, being imaginative and resourceful.
Food and drink arriving at the table is exciting. And they are happy to see you there.
What more could you ask for?
After years of working in restaurants in France, Portuguese couple @jose_neves1 and @claudiaabreudasilva returned to Lisbon last year to open @ciclo_restaurantelisboa
A small farm-to-table restaurant with a Portuguese ‘bistronomie’ approach, in the Mouraria district of Lisbon (very close to the always irreverent @taberna_do_calhau ), adding to my little theory. Less

I like to think that every time a new small, family-run restaurant opens, the world gets a little better.
Whenever I see another couple - and there are so many in restaurants around the world, usually one in the kitchen and the other in the dining room, but sometimes both in the kitchen - putting all their savings and love into a new project they already know won’t be easy, nor will it ever really be a thriving business on the scale that will make them rich. Because that’s not why they’re here. They’re here to surprise us, to delight us, to welcome us into a space that is an expression of themselves.
Because that’s their calling, that’s what they do best.
It’s in these places and these particular moments that you’re likely to find the best examples of true hospitality.
Not everything will be perfect and spotless eventually. You probably won’t even notice, and if you do, you won’t care. It is the beginning of something new. You are enjoying the energy boost too. You can see they’re making the most of their constraints, being imaginative and resourceful.
Food and drink arriving at the table is exciting. And they are happy to see you there.
What more could you ask for?
After years of working in restaurants in France, Portuguese couple @jose_neves1 and @claudiaabreudasilva returned to Lisbon last year to open @ciclo_restaurantelisboa
A small farm-to-table restaurant with a Portuguese ‘bistronomie’ approach, in the Mouraria district of Lisbon (very close to the always irreverent @taberna_do_calhau ), adding to my little theory. Less

There’s a very particular charm to the scale of this space, a table shared by only 12/14 guests, often people who don’t know each other, in a cosy atmosphere, impeccable and discreet aesthetics, a beautifully restored historic building, a small hotel for those in the know, one of Lisbon’s most original neighbourhoods.
I’ve been here several times and it’s always good to return to this communal table, to be surprised by new dishes (the kitchen has been run by @_renatobonfim_ since 2023), to enjoy a great non-alcoholic pairing conceived by Kristin Liebold (or to taste a wine recommended by sommelier Francisco Guilherme), and to meet other strangers, to open up to new conversations.
Each table has a story to tell and this one has many.
@ceia_table Less

Tell me what it was like to eat at Quintonil?
Did you start with the chileatole de huitacloche? This corn fungus, grey in colour and earthy in flavour, with chillies and Mexican herbs? And have you tried the grilled pickled mussels tostada, with mole de mar? What a good idea. How did it taste? I want to know everything.
What did you think of the dish with very thin slices of butternut, bright yellow in colour, with a certain acidity and spiciness that contrasted with the creaminess and sweetness of the horchata rice? It must be wonderful.
And the tuna with aguachile de brassicas? And the spider crab with blue corn tostadas? And the pibil duck tamal with young corn cream?
Oh, the food of Mexico! And Jorge Vallejo sure knows how to make us love it!
And what about all the insects?
The Chapulín (corn locust), the Jumil (shield bugs), the Cocopache (a type of cockroach) and the Chicatana ant? And the escamoles (ant larvae)? A feast, no?
Tell me about it! Is it really good?
And afterwards? Did you have the arroz a la tombada with sea urchin, lobster and chilhuacle rojo, those medium-hot chillies with a delicate, smoky flavour from Oaxaca? Lucky you!
And isn’t the mole chichilo negro mind-blowing? With perfectly cooked rib eye and a quenelle of pico de gallo.
Don’t tell me you finished with the cactus paddle sorbet, tangy and sweet!
I’m told that it’s hard not to be taken in by this country and this culture, so fertile, so rich and so welcoming, after eating at Quintonil.
Tell me all about it, is it really like that? I want to know.
Well... words fail me, you just have to go and see for yourself.
I definitely want to return. Less

Several pots of maize, soaked overnight in water and cal (calcium hydroxide or limestone), are scattered across the floor of Maizajo’s kitchen.
Santiago Muñoz’s beautiful, popular, laid-back taquería in CDMX is known for its mission to revive maíz criollo, Mexico’s heirloom corn, and perfect the nixtamal technique, which has its roots in millennia-old Mesoamerican indigenous cultures, to make corn more digestible and increase its nutritional value.
Salmon-coloured tiles cover the walls, counters and façade of the place.
We eat at a table in the middle of the open kitchen, which isn’t really a table but a counter because there are no tables here and everyone eats standing up. I have a cocktail with mezcal and something else I can’t remember, having already had a shot of pure artisanal mezcal.
The tacos arrive at a rapid pace, served on fresh, hand-pressed tortillas made daily, as I can see to my left, next to the plancha.
The first came with melted cheese, a sure way to seduce you, followed by an irresistible ‘shrimp taco with mojo isleño & habanero mayo’ and a ‘Campechano rib eye with longaniza’ (spicy sausage) on a blue corn tortilla. A little smoky salsa matcha here and the spicy salsa verde verde there, and I’m happy. Everything is sooo good! Then comes a quesabirria (birria with Oaxacan cheese), a suadero and a flauta de papa.
Finally, a wonderful vanilla flan.
It’s not easy to describe what makes a place special, but you know when you’ve found it. Less

Tell me what it was like to eat at Quintonil?
Did you start with the chileatole de huitacloche? This corn fungus, grey in colour and earthy in flavour, with chillies and Mexican herbs? And have you tried the grilled pickled mussels tostada, with mole de mar? What a good idea. How did it taste? I want to know everything.
What did you think of the dish with very thin slices of butternut, bright yellow in colour, with a certain acidity and spiciness that contrasted with the creaminess and sweetness of the horchata rice? It must be wonderful.
And the tuna with aguachile de brassicas? And the spider crab with blue corn tostadas? And the pibil duck tamal with young corn cream?
Oh, the food of Mexico! And Jorge Vallejo sure knows how to make us love it!
And what about all the insects?
The Chapulín (corn locust), the Jumil (shield bugs), the Cocopache (a type of cockroach) and the Chicatana ant? And the escamoles (ant larvae)? A feast, no?
Tell me about it! Is it really good?
And afterwards? Did you have the arroz a la tombada with sea urchin, lobster and chilhuacle rojo, those medium-hot chillies with a delicate, smoky flavour from Oaxaca? Lucky you!
And isn’t the mole chichilo negro mind-blowing? With perfectly cooked rib eye and a quenelle of pico de gallo.
Don’t tell me you finished with the cactus paddle sorbet, tangy and sweet!
I’m told that it’s hard not to be taken in by this country and this culture, so fertile, so rich and so welcoming, after eating at Quintonil.
Tell me all about it, is it really like that? I want to know.
Well... words fail me, you just have to go and see for yourself.
I definitely want to return. Less

Several pots of maize, soaked overnight in water and cal (calcium hydroxide or limestone), are scattered across the floor of Maizajo’s kitchen.
Santiago Muñoz’s beautiful, popular, laid-back taquería in CDMX is known for its mission to revive maíz criollo, Mexico’s heirloom corn, and perfect the nixtamal technique, which has its roots in millennia-old Mesoamerican indigenous cultures, to make corn more digestible and increase its nutritional value.
Salmon-coloured tiles cover the walls, counters and façade of the place.
We eat at a table in the middle of the open kitchen, which isn’t really a table but a counter because there are no tables here and everyone eats standing up. I have a cocktail with mezcal and something else I can’t remember, having already had a shot of pure artisanal mezcal.
The tacos arrive at a rapid pace, served on fresh, hand-pressed tortillas made daily, as I can see to my left, next to the plancha.
The first came with melted cheese, a sure way to seduce you, followed by an irresistible ‘shrimp taco with mojo isleño & habanero mayo’ and a ‘Campechano rib eye with longaniza’ (spicy sausage) on a blue corn tortilla. A little smoky salsa matcha here and the spicy salsa verde verde there, and I’m happy. Everything is sooo good! Then comes a quesabirria (birria with Oaxacan cheese), a suadero and a flauta de papa.
Finally, a wonderful vanilla flan.
It’s not easy to describe what makes a place special, but you know when you’ve found it. Less