Several pots of maize, soaked overnight in water and cal (calcium hydroxide or limestone), are scattered across the floor of Maizajo’s kitchen.
Santiago Muñoz’s beautiful, popular, laid-back taquería in CDMX is known for its mission to revive maíz criollo, Mexico’s heirloom corn, and perfect the nixtamal technique, which has its roots in millennia-old Mesoamerican indigenous cultures, to make corn more digestible and increase its nutritional value.
Salmon-coloured tiles cover the walls, counters and façade of the place.
We eat at a table in the middle of the open kitchen, which isn’t really a table but a counter because there are no tables here and everyone eats standing up. I have a cocktail with mezcal and something else I can’t remember, having already had a shot of pure artisanal mezcal.
The tacos arrive at a rapid pace, served on fresh, hand-pressed tortillas made daily, as I can see to my left, next to the plancha.
The first came with melted cheese, a sure way to seduce you, followed by an irresistible ‘shrimp taco with mojo isleño & habanero mayo’ and a ‘Campechano rib eye with longaniza’ (spicy sausage) on a blue corn tortilla. A little smoky salsa matcha here and the spicy salsa verde verde there, and I’m happy. Everything is sooo good! Then comes a quesabirria (birria with Oaxacan cheese), a suadero and a flauta de papa.
Finally, a wonderful vanilla flan.
It’s not easy to describe what makes a place special, but you know when you’ve found it.