I like to think that every time a new small, family-run restaurant opens, the world gets a little better.
Whenever I see another couple - and there are so many in restaurants around the world, usually one in the kitchen and the other in the dining room, but sometimes both in the kitchen - putting all their savings and love into a new project they already know won’t be easy, nor will it ever really be a thriving business on the scale that will make them rich. Because that’s not why they’re here. They’re here to surprise us, to delight us, to welcome us into a space that is an expression of themselves.
Because that’s their calling, that’s what they do best.
It’s in these places and these particular moments that you’re likely to find the best examples of true hospitality.
Not everything will be perfect and spotless eventually. You probably won’t even notice, and if you do, you won’t care. It is the beginning of something new. You are enjoying the energy boost too. You can see they’re making the most of their constraints, being imaginative and resourceful.
Food and drink arriving at the table is exciting. And they are happy to see you there.
What more could you ask for?
After years of working in restaurants in France, Portuguese couple @jose_neves1 and @claudiaabreudasilva returned to Lisbon last year to open @ciclo_restaurantelisboa
A small farm-to-table restaurant with a Portuguese ‘bistronomie’ approach, in the Mouraria district of Lisbon (very close to the always irreverent @taberna_do_calhau ), adding to my little theory.