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travels for friends, food and wine - in exactly this order
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San Sebastian, Spain
Born
July 21
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Clos des Sens at Clos des Sens
On of the two new three stars in France. I have been there in 2009 and then again in 2017 when it was a two star restaurant. In my opinion it remains exactly that, a two star place. Why the Guide elevated it to the highest tier is not entirely clear to me.
The food is great, the dining room and location fantastic and the front of the house professional,... More
On of the two new three stars in France. I have been there in 2009 and then again in 2017 when it was a two star restaurant. In my opinion it remains exactly that, a two star place. Why the Guide elevated it to the highest tier is not entirely clear to me.
The food is great, the dining room and location fantastic and the front of the house professional, polite, funny and patient.
However, the dishes although excellently conceived, fall too often down because of flaws in the execution. The Kohlrabi in a safran bouillabaisse, a dish which could have been phenomenal, was overcooked, watery and too soft. The wild trout was strangely without any taste by itself and clearly needed some more seasoning. The only really outstanding dish was the starting mushroom salad. Here everything was perfect, the presentation, the mushroom as the main ingredient and the shallots which added the necessary acidity to the dish.
I do hope that these execution flaws were just accidents and are indicative for the restaurant which showed tonight below its potential.
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Troisgros at Troisgros with Andy Hayler
This must be one of the most beautiful restaurants in the world. Moved from their train station location in Roanne into the countryside, they converted a large farm into a restaurant and small hotel with 15 rooms.
The dining room is a glass cube which connects the farm with the mansion house and is designed to bring the forest into the room, thus... More
This must be one of the most beautiful restaurants in the world. Moved from their train station location in Roanne into the countryside, they converted a large farm into a restaurant and small hotel with 15 rooms.
The dining room is a glass cube which connects the farm with the mansion house and is designed to bring the forest into the room, thus connects the environment outside with the diners inside.
The food matches the beauty and skill of the design and architecture. It is rare that a family in their fourth generation which has three stars since 1968(!) lifts their game when the next generation takes over. So far, the family Troigros managed to accomplish this hat-trick. César and Leo, inspired by their trips around the world, pour their experience and skill into a classic French cuisine. It is heavily influenced by international flavours but stays true to its French soul. Their play with acidity creates truly inspiring dishes. The fried carrot salad for example shows what one can do with a very humble ingredient. The Asparagus and Squid course was a perfect play between textures, sweet and sour tastes. The softness of the squid was counterpointed by the crunchiness of the asparagus, the rhubarb in the sauce added the acidity to the sweetness of the strawberry, ginger rounded up the sauce to make the whole dish simply stunning.
Rarely you go to a three star restaurant and you get overwhelmed. This place is truly worth a journey, it will not disappoint, trust me!
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Lunch at Bol d'Air at Bol d'Air
Soldi Bib Gourmand, very popular with the locals as this place was packed for lunch on Thursday.
Hand cut tartare very well seasoned.
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Lunch at L'Esquisse at L'Esquisse
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Great evening with Hirai-gyu with different cuts from the leg of a cow.
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Chef Niitome’s plays in his own league when it comes to tempura. (And his raw fish appetiser are of high end sushi quality).
His place in Nagoya became rapidly a pilgrimage for people all over Japan and the world for his marathon tempura session. Be prepared to start at 18:00 but not leave after well beyond 22:00. But this is not because of a super... More
Chef Niitome’s plays in his own league when it comes to tempura. (And his raw fish appetiser are of high end sushi quality).
His place in Nagoya became rapidly a pilgrimage for people all over Japan and the world for his marathon tempura session. Be prepared to start at 18:00 but not leave after well beyond 22:00. But this is not because of a super slow pace or an abundance of food, no the tempo is well paced and even though you have about 20+ course of deep fried food you feel stuffed to the hilt.
His batter which he prepares every few course afresh is made our of 1 egg with special local water and his own flower combination which he keep in the freezer. Whatever this freezing does to the batter, the result is just stunning. Light, but airy, tasty but not dominating to the ingredient he is frying. One can taste the oil but it does not become overpowering or during the course of this long meal a common thread so you think everything tastes the same.
From time to time, one encounters a place or person, where something which is quite normal simply gets elevated to something very special. Niitome in Nagoya is such a place. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Lunch at Côté Cour at Côté Cour
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Lunch at L'evo (レヴォ) at L'evo (レヴォ)
Out of this world resort with a fine-dining restaurant. Modern Kaiseki with super local ingredients. Some very clever dishes like the leg of the chicken (from a farm just across the river). Very tender, with great dark meat and a small rice ball inserted underneath the skin to fulfil the requirement of a rice dish.
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Lunch at Betty at Restaurant Betty Beef