Dinner at Alléno Paris

Dinner at Alléno Paris

at Alleno Paris on 26 August 2024
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Pavillon Ledoyen, located on the famed Champs-Élysées, is one of Paris’s most storied dining establishments. The neo-classical building that houses the restaurant was constructed in 1842 by the renowned architect Jacques-Ignace Hittorff. However, the roots of this iconic venue extend much further back, intertwining with the history of the Champs-Élysées itself.

The Champs-Élysées, often referred to as the most beautiful avenue in the world, shares an inseparable bond with Pavillon Ledoyen. This connection dates back to 1617 when Marie de Medici, the widow of Henri IV and mother of Louis XIII, initiated the first developments along what was then a simple path by the Seine. Her vision transformed the area into the grand promenade known as Cours de la Reine, laying the foundation for what would eventually become the Champs-Élysées.

In 1792, Antoine-Nicolas Doyen, a member of a distinguished family of caterers who had served the French monarchy since the time of Louis XV, rented one of the cabarets along the avenue. This modest establishment, initially named “Le Café de la Surprise,” quickly rose to prominence under Doyen’s stewardship. His innovations in French gastronomy, including the introduction of service “à la carte,” established the restaurant’s reputation, enduring through the French Revolution and the many political upheavals that followed.

The restaurant was later named after Doyen, becoming Pavillon Ledoyen, and it has remained a symbol of Parisian elegance and culinary excellence for over two centuries. In 2017, Pavillon Ledoyen celebrated its 225th anniversary, marking its place as one of the oldest and most prestigious dining venues in Paris.

In 2014, the restaurant entered a new chapter under the leadership of Yannick Alléno, who transformed it into Atelier Alléno Paris. His innovative approach to French cuisine, particularly through his pioneering sauce extraction techniques, quickly garnered acclaim. The restaurant has held three Michelin stars since 2015, a reflection of its exceptional quality and creativity.

In 2020, Pavillon Ledoyen achieved an extraordinary milestone, becoming the most Michelin-starred independent establishment in the world. This accolade was the result of maintaining three Michelin stars for Atelier Alléno Paris, earning two stars for L'Abysse (a sushi counter within the Pavillon), and securing one star for Pavyllon, Alléno’s more casual dining concept. This achievement solidified Pavillon Ledoyen’s status not just as a historical landmark, but as a contemporary epicenter of culinary innovation.

Today, Pavillon Ledoyen offers a unique blend of historical grandeur and cutting-edge gastronomy. Whether you are dining at the prestigious Atelier Alléno Paris, enjoying the refined sushi at L'Abysse, or experiencing the sophisticated yet approachable dishes at Pavyllon, the Pavillon Ledoyen remains a destination where history and modernity coexist harmoniously. This combination of legacy and innovation is what sets Pavillon Ledoyen apart, making it a quintessential Parisian experience.

Dining at Atelier Alléno Paris is a journey through the heights of modern French gastronomy, where tradition meets innovation under the skilled hands of Yannick Alléno. Each dish reflects a deep respect for ingredients and a mastery of technique that is both impressive and subtly refined.

The meal began with the Primeur, a seasonal ballad of vegetables that immediately recalled the elegance of Martin Berasategui's work. The dish, featuring a celeriac gelée, offered a delightful array of textures and flavors that set the tone for what was to come.

The Pretty Lady from Guilvinec—poached à la nage in a delicate celeriac broth and finished with a verdant "Vert pré" sauce—was a highlight. The langoustine, perfectly poached, was elevated by the freshness of herbs and a subtle lovage mayonnaise, creating a dish that was both refined and deeply satisfying.

Another standout was the Sturgeon "Nonette," a clever reinterpretation of the classic French pastry. This savory version, with its brioche-like fish cake filled with caviar and topped with farmhouse cream and a pepper-bacon marmalade, showcased Alléno's skill in transforming familiar elements into something entirely new and delightful.

The Blue Lobster was a masterpiece of texture and flavor. Cooked at a low temperature to preserve its delicate sweetness, the lobster was served with coral-flavored claws and a refreshing vegetable salad. The use of celery extraction and scented oils in the dish added layers of complexity without overpowering the natural flavors of the lobster.

For the main course, the Crispy Pigeon from Racan was an exercise in balance. The crispy skin provided a perfect counterpoint to the tender, red-cooked meat, all enhanced by Chapel's style jus and new potatoes dusted with sweet spices. This dish was a triumph of technique and taste, offering richness without excess.

The Millefeuille of Wagyu Beef and Paris White Mushrooms was particularly memorable. The dish presented Wagyu in a way that was both novel and distinctly European. Sliced into twenty thin layers, the beef was interspersed with mushrooms, creating a delicate millefeuille that was flavorful and far from the usual heavy treatment of Wagyu. It was an inspired dish that demonstrated how Japanese ingredients can be seamlessly integrated into European cuisine without merely copying trends.

The meal concluded with a delightful selection from the cheese trolley, featuring impeccably aged French cheeses, and a trio of desserts that showcased Alléno's playful creativity. The Guimauve with Capers Flowers was a standout, with its surprising combination of candied lemon and hazelnut extraction in jelly, providing a sweet yet savory finish.

In summary, this was a truly stunning meal—one of the best I’ve experienced in France. Yannick Alléno has a unique ability to take traditional concepts and transform them into something modern and original, as evidenced by the inventive Nonette. This is a dining experience that celebrates the best of French cuisine while pushing the boundaries in delightful and unexpected ways.

Modern French
10 / 10