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travels for friends, food and wine - in exactly this order
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San Sebastian, Spain
Born
July 21
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Lunch at 茶懐石 温石(オンジャク)Onjaku at Onjaku (温石)
Chakaiseki Onjaku, a prominent Kaiseki restaurant in Yaizu, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan, is a culinary gem that beautifully intertwines traditional Japanese cuisine with a rich family legacy and a strong local collaboration. The restaurant's journey is deeply rooted in the Sugiyama family's history and their long-standing association with the culinary... More
Chakaiseki Onjaku, a prominent Kaiseki restaurant in Yaizu, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan, is a culinary gem that beautifully intertwines traditional Japanese cuisine with a rich family legacy and a strong local collaboration. The restaurant's journey is deeply rooted in the Sugiyama family's history and their long-standing association with the culinary world.
The inception of the Sugiyama family's culinary venture dates back to Daigo Sugiyama's grandfather, who initially established a soba shop in Yaizu. This culinary lineage was furthered by Daigo's father, who, after training at Wako in Tokyo's Mejiro district, a restaurant celebrated for its Chakaiseki cuisine that incorporated elements of the tea ceremony, founded Chakaiseki Onjaku. Daigo Sugiyama, following in his father's footsteps, also honed his skills at Wako before returning to Yaizu to join the family business.
A pivotal aspect of Chakaiseki Onjaku's success is its collaboration with Sasue Maeda Fish Shop, a renowned local fishmonger in Yaizu. This collaboration, spanning three generations of the Sugiyama family, has significantly influenced the restaurant's culinary direction. Daigo Sugiyama, viewing Naoki Maeda, the owner of the fish shop, as a mentor, has mastered the art of selecting and preparing fish, enhancing the restaurant's reputation for exceptional seafood dishes.
The restaurant's menu is a testament to Sugiyama's dedication to culinary excellence, offering multicourse meals that showcase a variety of fresh, local ingredients. Dishes such as aji (horse mackerel), sakura shrimp, itoyori tai (golden threadfin bream), katsuobushi (bonito shavings), Tsuruna (New Zealand spinach), jindo ika (Japanese squid), and kinmedai (splendid alfonsino) reflect Sugiyama's commitment to high-quality, locally sourced ingredients. His approach to cuisine is marked by a continuous quest for delicious flavors and a humble acknowledgment of the ongoing nature of this pursuit.
Chakaiseki Onjaku, under Daigo Sugiyama's guidance, has become a symbol of culinary artistry that respects traditional hospitality while also embracing modern culinary techniques. The restaurant stands as a beacon of the rich culinary heritage of Shizuoka Prefecture, attracting both locals and tourists alike who seek an authentic and high-quality Japanese dining experience. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at SANKA at Yakitori SANKA
Newly Bib Gourmet minted yakitori restaurant. 4 year old tare, made out of Nihonshu and Madeira.
Excellent, concentrated execution of some reall good chicken. Great value.
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Hoshino at Shimbashi Hoshino (新ばし 星野)
My recent visit to Hoshino, a renowned Kaiseki restaurant in Tokyo's Shinbashi area, offered an extraordinary culinary experience that beautifully melded traditional Japanese cuisine with a modern touch. This exceptional dining adventure can be attributed to the masterful skill and unique culinary vision of the chef, a distinguished figure in the culinary... More
My recent visit to Hoshino, a renowned Kaiseki restaurant in Tokyo's Shinbashi area, offered an extraordinary culinary experience that beautifully melded traditional Japanese cuisine with a modern touch. This exceptional dining adventure can be attributed to the masterful skill and unique culinary vision of the chef, a distinguished figure in the culinary world.
The chef's journey began with a decade-long apprenticeship at a prestigious traditional restaurant in Kyoto. This formative period honed his skills and deepened his understanding of Japanese culinary traditions. His experience in Kyoto, known for its refined cuisine, significantly influenced his cooking style, emphasizing seasonal ingredients, delicate flavors, and artistic presentation.
The meal at Hoshino was a testament to the chef's expertise and creativity. It commenced with Grilled Shirako, which was exquisitely grilled to achieve a sweet and tender texture. The Kobako crab, slightly warmed, tantalized the palate with its delicate flavors. The subtlety and complexity of this dish highlighted the chef's ability to enhance natural flavors through precise cooking methods.
Kani leg, gently warmed, was a showcase of pure umami and sweetness, demonstrating the high-quality ingredients that Hoshino prides itself on. This was followed by a uniquely prepared crab dish, featuring crab meat extracted from the body and topped with slightly warmed miso, creating a harmonious blend of flavors.
The Ebi Imo, grilled to achieve a crusty exterior while maintaining a creamy interior, was a delightful contrast in textures. The Tai (grouper) sashimi, known for its excellent texture and sweetness, further displayed the restaurant's prowess with seafood.
Concluding the meal was a dish of grilled duck with leek, perfectly executed to capture the essence of umami with an impeccable texture.
The ambiance at Hoshino, marked by traditional Japanese elegance, complemented the culinary experience. The chef's dedication to his craft, combined with his unique approach to cooking, makes dining at Hoshino a celebration of Japanese gastronomy at its finest. This exceptional dining experience is a reflection of the chef's journey from his roots in Kyoto to the pinnacle of culinary excellence in Tokyo. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at 茶懐石 温石(オンジャク)Onjaku at Onjaku (温石)
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The Nagoya branch of Yanagiya, less ambiente but a lot more precision in cooking. For me on balance the winner.
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Aca 1° at acá
Nestled in Tokyo's Nihonbashi district, "acá," under the culinary mastery of Chef Tetsuo Azuma, always proves to be a gastronomic sanctuary where Spanish-inspired Japanese cuisine reached its pinnacle. Chef Azuma's culinary journey, born from a career transition at 25 from a car salesperson to a culinary virtuoso, unfolded over the years, marked by... More
Nestled in Tokyo's Nihonbashi district, "acá," under the culinary mastery of Chef Tetsuo Azuma, always proves to be a gastronomic sanctuary where Spanish-inspired Japanese cuisine reached its pinnacle. Chef Azuma's culinary journey, born from a career transition at 25 from a car salesperson to a culinary virtuoso, unfolded over the years, marked by stints in San Sebastián and the establishment of "acá" in Kyoto.
The intimate counter setting, a departure from the Kyoto location, welcomes one to a 7-course culinary symphony that showcased Azuma-san's expertise. The journey began with a grilled Buri paired with green daikon, setting the tone for a delightful interplay of textures. The iconic Bocadillo followed, a perfect harmony of succulence and acidity on tomato bread with Kohada and Yuko leaf.
The autumn spring roll unfolded with delicate layers of filo dough embracing Anago and renkon, showcasing Azuma-san's finesse in balancing softness and crunchiness. The famous salad emerged as a medley of leaves, each prepared distinctively, accompanied by a warm ajoblanco soup—an epitome of vibrant flavors.
Further indulgence came with Shirako and Shiroebi served in oil, a testament to Chef Azuma's commitment to quality ingredients. His grill mastery reached its zenith with the Filet and Sirloin from Kobe, meticulously grilled to perfection over binchotan, a process that spanned over an hour.
The finale, a paella with crab, served with aioli infused with sansho peppers, was a joyous crescendo—a tapestry of delicate crab, flavorful rice, and subtle spiciness. This culmination highlighted Chef Azuma's dedication to excellence, seamlessly blending Japanese ingredients with Spanish techniques.
"acá" in Tokyo not only symbolizes a relocation but a culinary evolution, a testament to Chef Azuma's unwavering commitment to his craft. Each dish resonated with artistry, leaving an indelible mark on my palate and a deep appreciation for the culinary magic happening at "acá." The journey encapsulated not just a meal but an exploration of flavors and textures orchestrated by a chef whose culinary alchemy defines "acá" as a culinary gem in the heart of Tokyo. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Koharu at Koharu
I recently found myself at Koharu, a newly opened sushi establishment with ties to the esteemed Harutaka, one of Tokyo's top sushi places. The restaurant, located at the original spot where Harutaka started 15 years ago, is now under the skilled hands of Hisayuki Kurita, who has worked alongside Harutaka for the past 15 years.
As a disciple of the... More
I recently found myself at Koharu, a newly opened sushi establishment with ties to the esteemed Harutaka, one of Tokyo's top sushi places. The restaurant, located at the original spot where Harutaka started 15 years ago, is now under the skilled hands of Hisayuki Kurita, who has worked alongside Harutaka for the past 15 years.
As a disciple of the legendary sushi Chef Jiro, Harutaka is renowned for always sourcing the finest fish. The transition to Koharu marked a significant change, with Kurita-san taking the helm and infusing his own uniqueness into the dining experience.
Upon entering, the atmosphere at Koharu feels distinct from its predecessor. The interior has been redecorated, with the only constant being the eight-seat counter. The restaurant initially started with two dinner seatings at 5:30 and 8:30, but as operations streamlined, the first seating now begins at 6 o'clock. Notably, the second seating has become more flexible, starting at 9 o'clock.
While maintaining the essence of Harutaka's style, Koharu presents its own unique touch. The quality remains at the renowned Harutaka level, offering a delightful alternative to Harutaka. What sets Koharu apart is its inclusion of steamed egg custard, fried delicacies like kamasu and oysters, and palate-cleansing pickles, a refreshing departure from the offerings at Harutaka.
Kurita-san's commitment to excellence is evident in his choice of rice for Shari, mirroring his master's blend of two different rice varieties. This versatile Shari complements an array of fresh and top-notch neta sourced from the same fishmongers as his former master. Some standout pieces during my visit were nothing short of sensational.
The restaurant's menu, while reminiscent of Harutaka, introduces distinctive elements. Noteworthy highlights include rare selections like Himekodai, ingenious preparations of boiled or broiled yellowtail, and Kuruma shrimp presented whole. A unique touch is the offering of sea urchin salmon roe bowls, a delightful surprise not found in Harutaka. Even the tuna, differing from Harutaka's offerings, showcases Koharu's commitment to diversity and quality.
To conclude the culinary journey, Koharu delights patrons with miso soup, seasonal bowls like hamo soup, rolls, and eggs. Unlike Harutaka, where these items are separate orders, Koharu seamlessly incorporates them into the Omakase course.
The meal consisted of 7 meticulously crafted otsumami dishes and 14 exquisite nigiri pieces. Each otsumami, from the perfectly steamed Abalone in a subtly acidic sauce to the fatty and flavorful Tuna Neck, showcased Chef Kurita's culinary prowess. The nigiri, including outstanding Tuna varieties, a standout Buri, and a harmoniously balanced Kohada, formed a symphony of flavors that danced on the palate.
In addition to the outstanding meal experience, the price of ¥34,000 offered exceptional value for the culinary journey provided. Koharu proves to be a haven for sushi enthusiasts, offering a culinary experience that seamlessly blends tradition with innovation. A visit to Koharu is not just a meal but a memorable journey through flavors, textures, and the artistry of Chef Kurita. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at WAGYU日山 at Sukiyaki Kappou Hiyama
In the venerable saga of Hiyama Sukiyaki, the meticulous orchestration of comfort, culinary artistry, and a legacy spanning over a century unfolds through a prism of historical milestones.
Established in 1912, Hiyama opened its doors as a butcher shop. In 1927, it metamorphosed into a sukiyaki restaurant named "Hiyama." A beacon of traditional Japanese... More
In the venerable saga of Hiyama Sukiyaki, the meticulous orchestration of comfort, culinary artistry, and a legacy spanning over a century unfolds through a prism of historical milestones.
Established in 1912, Hiyama opened its doors as a butcher shop. In 1927, it metamorphosed into a sukiyaki restaurant named "Hiyama." A beacon of traditional Japanese cuisine, it has weathered the storms of history, surviving wars and evolving with its patrons. The restaurant's commitment to cultivating Wagyu culture in tandem with its customers has endured over the decades.
Fast forward to the present day, Hiyama Sukiyaki continues to embody the essence of Japanese culinary excellence. In 2020, the restaurant bid farewell to its Kyoto location, where it had garnered accolades such as the Michelin star and Tabelog awards, relocating to the heart of Tokyo in Nihonbashi.
The transition marked a new chapter, reaffirming Hiyama's belief in the potential of Wagyu beef. The move to Tokyo was not merely a geographical shift but a deliberate step in reinventing the narrative of Japanese food. Hiyama's mission expanded beyond the Kyoto roots, intending to inherit and reinterpret the "story of food" passed down by predecessors for the next generation.
Today, Sukiyaki Kappo Hiyama stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Wagyu beef. With only six seats available per day, it encapsulates not just a dining experience but a timeless tale etched in the annals of Japanese food culture. The secret sauce, passed down since the founding year, adds a layer of historical continuity to every savory bite.
The journey doesn't end within the restaurant's walls. The Hiyama Group, comprising the meat shop "Hiyama" and Hiyama Livestock, continues to explore the potential of Wagyu beef. Since 1912, Hiyama's history has been intertwined with the evolution of Japanese Wagyu beef culture. The commitment to quality, discerning taste, and a passion for delivering excellence to customers remain unwavering.
As patrons savor the delectable offerings at Hiyama Sukiyaki, they partake not only in a meal but in a living chronicle that began over a century ago. The story of food continues to unfold, with Hiyama Group leading the way in reinventing and preserving the rich tapestry of Japanese Wagyu beef culture. Less
