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travels for friends, food and wine - in exactly this order
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Back again for more beef delight. This is the day when Tanaka-san moved to be #1 in the beef section of Tabelog. Congratulations.
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Tucked away in Ginza, Teuchi Soba Narutomi is a serene, understated soba restaurant that has earned quiet reverence among Tokyo’s culinary elite. Most notably, it’s the favorite soba spot of Sugita-san, the renowned sushi master behind Sushi Sugita—a testament to the restaurant’s precision, seasonality, and deep respect for ingredients.
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Tucked away in Ginza, Teuchi Soba Narutomi is a serene, understated soba restaurant that has earned quiet reverence among Tokyo’s culinary elite. Most notably, it’s the favorite soba spot of Sugita-san, the renowned sushi master behind Sushi Sugita—a testament to the restaurant’s precision, seasonality, and deep respect for ingredients.
On our visit, the highlight was a rare seasonal soba dish featuring hanayama sansho—young flower buds of the Japanese pepper tree—served over cold soba with tororo (grated yam). The dish was visually striking and aromatically vivid. The sansho added a gentle, tingling spice and floral citrus notes, which layered beautifully over the earthy sweetness of the yam and the nutty, chewy soba. The broth was subtle and clean, allowing the natural flavors to take center stage. It was a fleeting celebration of early spring—elegant, balanced, and utterly memorable.
Accompanying the soba was a course of seasonal tempura, executed with finesse. The fukinoto (butterbur sprout) from Yamanashi stood out with its slightly bitter, herbal aroma and crisp, delicate batter. Other highlights included young bamboo shoot and shrimp, each piece fried with a gossamer-light coating that preserved the purity of the ingredients.
The meal concluded with sobayu, the hot water used to cook the soba, poured into the leftover dipping sauce. This warm, milky broth was comforting and rounded out the experience with a sense of thoughtful closure.
The atmosphere at Narutomi is calm and refined, with natural wood interiors and an air of quiet focus. Service is discreet but attentive, reinforcing the restaurant’s philosophy of letting the food speak for itself.
Narutomi is not about flash or reinvention—it’s about restraint, harmony, and purity. The flavors are gentle, but profound. That such a place is favored by one of Tokyo’s top sushi masters only affirms its stature. For anyone seeking a soba experience grounded in true craftsmanship and seasonality, Teuchi Soba Narutomi is a must-visit. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Sakuraan at Sakuraan
Sakura An in Kumamoto delivers a refined, hyper-local dining experience centered around the region’s celebrated horse meat. Nestled in a serene, traditional setting with tatami mats, private rooms, and minimalist decor, the restaurant exudes calm and quiet elegance. The service is gracious and knowledgeable, with staff who embody the spirit of omotenashi,... More
Sakura An in Kumamoto delivers a refined, hyper-local dining experience centered around the region’s celebrated horse meat. Nestled in a serene, traditional setting with tatami mats, private rooms, and minimalist decor, the restaurant exudes calm and quiet elegance. The service is gracious and knowledgeable, with staff who embody the spirit of omotenashi, anticipating your needs without intrusion.
The highlight of the meal was undoubtedly the basashi (horse sashimi), featuring two prized cuts: from beneath the mane and from the belly. The mane-side cut, tategami, arrived as translucent white slices with a lustrous sheen. Its slightly chewy texture yielded to a rich, almost creamy mouthfeel, releasing deep, lingering flavors as it warmed on the tongue. In contrast, the belly offered a firmer bite with a clean, subtle sweetness—equally refined but texturally distinct. Served simply with freshly grated ginger, garlic, scallions, and a splash of soy, the accompaniments enhanced without overpowering the meat’s natural character.
The horse shabu-shabu, prepared in spring water from Aso, continued the theme of minimalism and purity. Thin slices briefly poached at the table remained tender and absorbed just enough heat to coax out their savory essence. Paired with crisp seasonal vegetables and delicate dipping sauces, the dish struck a balance of comfort and elegance.
Sakura An’s approach—eschewing additives and chemical seasonings—underscores its reverence for clean flavors and quality ingredients. It’s a meal that doesn’t shout but resonates deeply, offering a quiet yet profound expression of Kumamoto’s culinary identity. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new restaurant list Pamplona Peña Borussia Restaurants
Restaurants, die auf der Buchungsliste sind
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Wang Gyoza at Wang Gyoza
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Tucked away in the winding alleys of Kagurazaka, Tempura Tenko offers a sublime Edomae tempura experience rooted in seasonality, restraint, and deep technical precision. With just eight counter seats inside a converted geisha house, the ambiance is hushed and intimate—wooden panels, soft lighting, and the gentle rhythm of frying oil form the backdrop... More
Tucked away in the winding alleys of Kagurazaka, Tempura Tenko offers a sublime Edomae tempura experience rooted in seasonality, restraint, and deep technical precision. With just eight counter seats inside a converted geisha house, the ambiance is hushed and intimate—wooden panels, soft lighting, and the gentle rhythm of frying oil form the backdrop to a performance both serene and exacting.
Chef Hitoshi Arai, a second-generation master of his craft, works quietly and methodically in front of his guests. The service, often assisted by his mother, is warm yet unobtrusive—attentive without interrupting the quiet momentum of the meal.
Among the highlights of our omakase were fukinoto, kogomi, and megochi—each a reflection of early spring and Arai-san’s sensitivity to ingredient. The fukinoto (butterbur bud) arrived cloaked in a gossamer batter, its bitterness intact but softened by the frying process. It was earthy and aromatic, almost floral. The kogomi (ostrich fern) had a tender bite and grassy sweetness that paired beautifully with the light, non-greasy crunch. Megochi (flathead fish), often overlooked, was sensational—flaky and succulent, its subtle sweetness enhanced by expert frying and just a touch of salt.
The meal closed with kakiage tenbara—crispy shards of mixed tempura atop rice, topped with a light sauce. It was deeply comforting and surprisingly refined.
Tempura Tenko embodies a quiet, confident minimalism. Nothing is overdone, and yet every bite reveals layers of care, balance, and tradition. It’s an ideal expression of what seasonal Japanese cuisine can be when placed in truly skilled hands. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Sushi Sakai (鮨 さかい) at Sushi Sakai
Review: Sushi Sakai, Fukuoka
Date of Visit: March 29, 2025
Tucked quietly in a discreet corner of Fukuoka, Sushi Sakai continues to stand as one of Japan’s most sophisticated and disciplined sushi-ya, offering a dining experience rooted in precision, balance, and reverence for seasonality. The meal I experienced here was nothing short of masterful... More
Review: Sushi Sakai, Fukuoka
Date of Visit: March 29, 2025
Tucked quietly in a discreet corner of Fukuoka, Sushi Sakai continues to stand as one of Japan’s most sophisticated and disciplined sushi-ya, offering a dining experience rooted in precision, balance, and reverence for seasonality. The meal I experienced here was nothing short of masterful — a seamless blend of thoughtful progression, outstanding ingredients, and nuanced technique.
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Ambiance & Service
The room is understated but quietly elegant: a serene counter of polished hinoki wood anchors the space, with no more than eight seats arranged in a gently curved arc around Chef Sakai. Every element — from the muted lighting to the unobtrusive soundtrack of soft conversation and the delicate clink of ceramics — is designed to focus attention on the food and its quiet craftsmanship. Chef Sakai himself is calm, measured, and warm in a reserved way. His movements are precise, never hurried, and his interactions with guests are minimal but always sincere. Service is polished and smooth, as one would expect from a restaurant of this caliber.
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Zensai / Appetizer Course
We began with hotaru ika, the firefly squid, a seasonal delicacy. It was served chilled, offering a gentle bitterness and umami burst.
Next came a katsu, fried perfectly with a crisp, non-greasy shell — a brief interlude of texture and warmth.
Awabi (abalone) and tako (octopus) followed, sliced thin with a tender resistance that transitioned into deep ocean flavor.
The negi toro was lush and savory, built on the contrast between the creamy toro and the gentle pungency of the scallion.
A thoughtful dish of ankimo from Hokkaido and fugu from Fukuoka balanced richness and delicacy. The ankimo was smooth, foie-gras-like, with a lingering finish, while the fugu added clean texture.
The chawanmushi was exceptional — custard-soft and infused with sakura ebi, hotate, and dai. The sakura ebi’s briny intensity permeated the silky egg, making it a highlight of the cooked courses.
A single fried oyster from Senposhi arrived next: warm, juicy, sweet, and full of mineral complexity. The batter was whisper-thin, adding crispness without masking the bivalve’s flavor.
Then, a plate featuring takenoko (bamboo shoot) and sakura mazu (pickled cherry blossom) subtly bridged the cooked and raw courses — a poetic nod to spring, gently floral and earthy.
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Nigiri Course
The progression of nigiri was expertly paced and masterfully composed.
• Sayori with yuzu leaf: Delicate and clean, lifted by the aromatic brightness of yuzu — a fresh opener.
• Kasugo (baby tai) from Kagoshima’s Izumi: translucent, slightly sweet, and tender — classic spring fare.
• A second preparation of ankimo, this time integrated into nigiri, offered a silky, rich bite.
• Karasumi added intensity and depth — a bold, briny interlude.
Then came a wave of exquisite craftsmanship:
• Torigai from Awaji-shima — likely the best I’ve ever had. Unusually large and vibrant, the bite was firm but yielding, with a snap and incredible sweetness.
• Kohada (young gizzard shad) — in peak season, skin barely perceptible. Delicate curing drew out deep umami without overpowering the fish’s natural oils.
• Akami from Shimoda — aged to perfection, soft yet structured, with an umami-laden release that lingered.
• Chutoro — in impeccable condition. Silky, almost mousse-like, seamlessly merging with the shari.
• Otoro — cut thicker than the winter variant to moderate its richness, a smart and confident choice. The aftertaste was profound and satisfying.
Kuroma ebi, cooked one by one, was an exercise in precision. The prawn was crunchy, sweet, and had a layered complexity that only comes from perfect temperature control and immediate serving.
Then came a rare delight — Daisen uni Kurosaki from Aomori. Lush, sweet, and cold. Chef Sakai remarked that when he opened his shop, this uni was ¥7,000; it is now ¥5,000 — a detail that added a personal touch and quiet nostalgia.
Hamaguri followed, the warm clam perfectly aligned in temperature with the shari. Its sweet-salty glaze (tsume) was sticky, lacquered, and just slightly sweet — complementing without overpowering.
The anago, also finished with tsume, melted on the tongue, airy and warm — a classic closer.
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Finale
The tamago was the ideal epilogue — fluffy, eggy, with a barely perceptible sweetness and a touch of caramelization on the surface. Not just an afterthought, but a miniature cake of technique.
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Overall Impression
This was a strong meal, in every sense — quietly confident, deeply seasonal, and rigorously executed. What stood out was the balance: between temperature and flavor, richness and restraint, familiarity and surprise. Chef Sakai isn’t chasing theatrics or flash — his philosophy is rooted in trust: in the fish, the shari, and the precision of timing.
It is not a meal that demands attention; rather, it earns it — quietly, relentlessly, and without a single misstep.
Sushi Sakai remains one of Fukuoka’s finest expressions of edomae tradition, anchored by intuition and grace. Less
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Kashiwaya Osaka Senriyama stands as a masterclass in modern kaiseki, where tradition and innovation converge with quiet confidence. Led by Chef Hideaki Matsuo, the restaurant has earned three Michelin stars and a Green Star, a rare combination that speaks to both culinary excellence and a deep commitment to sustainability. Rooted in a family lineage... More
Kashiwaya Osaka Senriyama stands as a masterclass in modern kaiseki, where tradition and innovation converge with quiet confidence. Led by Chef Hideaki Matsuo, the restaurant has earned three Michelin stars and a Green Star, a rare combination that speaks to both culinary excellence and a deep commitment to sustainability. Rooted in a family lineage that once operated a traditional ryokan, Matsuo has reimagined his heritage through the lens of contemporary Japanese gastronomy.
Each course reflects a profound respect for seasonality—not simply in ingredients, but in spirit. Dishes are inspired by ancient festivals and cultural events, subtly referencing the passage of time through flavor, texture, and presentation. The cuisine is resolutely Japanese, yet there is a modernity in its restraint—a quiet push forward that honors the past without being confined by it.
The setting is a study in Sukiya style: tatami rooms, shoji screens, and carefully composed alcoves create an atmosphere that is at once serene and precise. There is no excess—only what is essential to frame the meal in stillness and clarity. Every detail, from the rhythm of service to the seasonal motifs in the dishware, supports the experience as a meditation on nature, time, and form.
Beyond the plate, Matsuo’s philosophy extends into the soil and sea. His collaboration with aquaculture researchers and his advocacy for heritage Naniwa vegetables reflect a broader commitment to sustaining both the environment and the cultural identity of Kansai.
Kashiwaya is not content with preservation alone. Its sister restaurant in Kitashinchi, already recognized with a Michelin star, carries forward the same ethos in a more urban expression. But it is at Senriyama where one feels the full gravity of Matsuo’s vision—where kaiseki is not only performed, but deeply lived. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Gaigai at Gaigai
Late night Yakitori with astonishing flavor and execution. Except the desserts.
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- Gerhard Huber added a new restaurant list The Real Restaurant Guide to Asturias & Galicia
Jorge Guitián’s restaurant recommendations from Asturias & Galicia:
Click to view on Google Maps
Northwest Spain, a region that is part of what is often known as Green Spain, an area of the country with a milder climate than the rest of the Peninsula, is one of the least-known parts of the country to visitors from abroad. It also possesses... More
Jorge Guitián’s restaurant recommendations from Asturias & Galicia:
Click to view on Google Maps
Northwest Spain, a region that is part of what is often known as Green Spain, an area of the country with a milder climate than the rest of the Peninsula, is one of the least-known parts of the country to visitors from abroad. It also possesses a distinct gastronomic personality. Although there are important differences between Galicia and Asturias in terms of cuisine, both regions share many products and culinary techniques. This, along with similar landscapes (although Asturias is more mountainous) means that in some ways they can be understood as a distinctly unified part of Spain, separate from the rest.
This is a sparsely populated area of the Iberian Peninsula, and although it has received an increasing number of tourists in recent years, it remains relatively under-visited compared to the Mediterranean coast, Madrid, Barcelona or Andalusia. However, as is also the case with the Basque Country, it is a region with a significant culinary tradition, both in terms of traditional and contemporary cuisine, which makes it particularly attractive for travelers interested in gastronomic heritage.
Asturian culinary pioneers such as Pedro Morán of Restaurante Casa Gerardo were responsible for updating the cuisine of the region during the 1970s and 1980s, while movements like NUCA (Nueva Cocina Asturiana), brought together 30 years ago a number of young chefs who have now become essential figures in Spanish cuisine.
The same has happened in Galicia where the cuisine of restaurants like Casa Solla, El Mosquito, Puesto Piloto or Chocolate were pioneering in the 1960s and 1970s. Later, chefs such as José Antonio Rivera, Toñi Vicente, and Ana Gago continued researching and updating traditional Galician cuisine, a task in which NOVE, which is a play on words as Nove means nine in the Galician language, which is the number of founding members of the groups while Novo in the Galician language means new; thus nine new names in the industry who collectively played a leading role, among them chefs Pepe Solla, Beatriz Sotelo, and Xosé T. Cannas.
The cuisines of Galicia and Asturias are currently in a period of transition, with traditional restaurants coexisting with avant-garde ones. In either case, both trends rely on excellent local products, among which seafood plays a prominent role as the basis of their cuisine.
Although Galicia and Asturias are relatively small regions, their restaurant scene is so varied that it’s impossible to compile a uniform list. Therefore, I divided it into three categories: “Usual Suspects” includes three internationally recognized restaurants regularly included in guides and rankings. “Must-visit” includes some of my favorites, some of which are newer restaurants run by young chefs, but well worth exploring. Finally, “Tradition” includes restaurants serving interesting local cuisine.
https://gastronomyunbound.substack.com/p/the-real-restaurant-guide-to-asturias?utm_source=post-email-title&publication_id=3022960&post_id=159768935&utm_campaign=email-post-title&isFreemail=true&r=1s6noo&triedRedirect=true&utm_medium=email Less
