About
travels for friends, food and wine - in exactly this order
From
San Sebastian, Spain
Born
July 21
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at IIda at Iida (飯田)
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Hato (波濤) at Hatou
Sushi Hatou (波濤) in Kagurazaka remains one of Tokyo’s most refined sushi experiences—a serene eight-seat counter where kaiseki discipline meets the precision of Edomae sushi. Since opening in 2020 under Chef Daichi Kumagiri (熊切大地), a former kaiseki chef from the Ishikawa Group, Hatou has evolved steadily into one of the capital’s most... More
Sushi Hatou (波濤) in Kagurazaka remains one of Tokyo’s most refined sushi experiences—a serene eight-seat counter where kaiseki discipline meets the precision of Edomae sushi. Since opening in 2020 under Chef Daichi Kumagiri (熊切大地), a former kaiseki chef from the Ishikawa Group, Hatou has evolved steadily into one of the capital’s most complete expressions of Japanese taste and texture. Kumagiri-san’s background is evident in the pacing, the clarity of flavors, and the way each course feels balanced yet emotionally resonant. His otsumami—drawn from classical Japanese cooking rather than izakaya-style snacks—belong among the very best in Tokyo, rivaling even the great kaiseki counters. The nigiri, once slightly restrained, have grown in both confidence and depth over the years.
Yesterday’s meal marked my 24th visit since June 2020, and it once again confirmed Hatou’s remarkable consistency and quiet evolution. The hamaguri soup, a recurring signature, remains untouchable—an ideal of clarity and depth, with layer upon layer of umami that somehow stays light and fragrant. It is the kind of dish that embodies Kumagiri-san’s style: technique in the service of emotion.
The ikura was another standout. Exceptionally soft, with less of the usual popping texture, it revealed a deep sweetness and an expansive release of umami—generous, elegant, and unforgettable. The kagahagi nigiri (thread-sail filefish) showed a perfect equilibrium between the delicately seasoned shari and the clean, smooth flesh of the fish, finishing with a faint acidity that lifted the entire bite.
Hatou’s tuna program, sourced from Ireland, continues to impress. The akami in particular was outstanding—aged with precision, its texture supple yet substantial, with a purity of flavor that recalled the finest traditions of Edomae. Each slice captured the quiet confidence of a chef who knows exactly how far to push his maturation and when to let nature speak.
Chef Kumagiri’s evolution from kaiseki to sushi now feels complete. He has built a restaurant that sits at the intersection of restraint and richness, intellect and instinct. Hatou is no longer a hidden gem—it is one of Tokyo’s most essential counters. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Kisanuki at Kisanuki
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Kisanuki (木佐貫) at Kisanuki
My second meal at Kisanuki — always the most telling visit, when expectations are set from the first time — confirmed not only the restaurant’s great potential, but also its already remarkable execution and maturity. Chef Wataru Kisanuki, who opened in April 2025 after years as head chef at Kataori, continues to impress with his flawless technique,... More
My second meal at Kisanuki — always the most telling visit, when expectations are set from the first time — confirmed not only the restaurant’s great potential, but also its already remarkable execution and maturity. Chef Wataru Kisanuki, who opened in April 2025 after years as head chef at Kataori, continues to impress with his flawless technique, impeccable sourcing, and refined palate.
Each dish embodies a quiet confidence: simple, restrained compositions that reveal profound depth of flavor and perfect balance. The progression of courses shows a chef who truly understands timing, texture, and taste — one who can draw remarkable complexity from minimalism.
The ingredients are top-tier, sourced with clear discernment, and the seasoning precise without ever feeling calculated. There is a sense of natural harmony that makes Kisanuki’s cuisine both deeply Japanese and unmistakably his own.
Despite having opened only months ago, the restaurant has already become impossible to book, with just six seats and a growing reputation among Japan’s most discerning diners. It is clear that Chef Kisanuki is poised to become one of Japan’s next culinary superstars, and Kanazawa has gained another essential destination for serious gastronomy. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Tapas at Espacio Eslava at Espacio Eslava
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Jaylu at Jaylu
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Tapas at Cinco Yotas at Cinco Jotas Sevilla
