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travels for friends, food and wine - in exactly this order
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San Sebastian, Spain
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July 21
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Second visit to MB. In more then 40 visits there I have never, ever not eaten well there. How Martin Berasategui maintains that level of cooking and creativity over such a long time is a riddle to me.
I will go there as long as somebody can drag me up the massive staircase to his restaurant.
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Sushi Ikko (鮨 一幸) at Sushi Ikko
Junya Kudo is arguably one of the best sushi chefs in Japan. He is obsessed with ingredients, tries to purvey some unusual fish, source locally without being dogmatic in doing so. He displays a technique which resembles movements of a ballet dance rather than those of a chef. His knife skills are stunning and application of his soy sauce a joy to watch.... More
Junya Kudo is arguably one of the best sushi chefs in Japan. He is obsessed with ingredients, tries to purvey some unusual fish, source locally without being dogmatic in doing so. He displays a technique which resembles movements of a ballet dance rather than those of a chef. His knife skills are stunning and application of his soy sauce a joy to watch.
One example for his drive to source the best was the bonito we got. On very rare occasions a bonito thinks he is a tuna and starts swimming with a group of them. Of course they swim much faster than he normally would do, so they force him to go beyond his natural speed and therefore transform his muscle. There are less than 1% bonitos doing this but it is worth waiting to taste it.
One of the best places to eat sushi in Japan and because of that family hard to book
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Lunch at Komatsu (こまつ) at Komatsu
This places is housed in a modern building which only seems to have one floor. However once you passed the obligatory curtain you wonder downstairs into the restaurant. The dining room opens up to a sloping hill and you have a wonderful view into an autumn forest.
This tiny restaurant serves modern Kaiseki while adhering to the traditional protocol.... More
This places is housed in a modern building which only seems to have one floor. However once you passed the obligatory curtain you wonder downstairs into the restaurant. The dining room opens up to a sloping hill and you have a wonderful view into an autumn forest.
This tiny restaurant serves modern Kaiseki while adhering to the traditional protocol. His ingredients are mostly sourced locally and also drive the menu which changes depending on what the Chef Takashi Komatsu got from his suppliers or the market. Subtle flavours and minimalistic presentation generate a wonderful taste combination. Less
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Small place in the countryside where the Master practices Chaji, the formal tea ceremony which includes the charcoal ceremony, the full Kaiseki meal and then the actual tea ceremony where he serves Koi-cha (the thick tea), and Usu-cha (the thin tea). It takes over four hours and for most of this you are supposed to kneel in the traditional way. Needless... More
Small place in the countryside where the Master practices Chaji, the formal tea ceremony which includes the charcoal ceremony, the full Kaiseki meal and then the actual tea ceremony where he serves Koi-cha (the thick tea), and Usu-cha (the thin tea). It takes over four hours and for most of this you are supposed to kneel in the traditional way. Needless to say this is is impossible for me and I was dispensed by the Master from most part of it.
It is a wonderful experience which gives you a better understanding of the Japanese culture and psyche. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at 片折 Kataori at Kataori
Most likely the best Kaiseki restaurant in Kanazawa. Especially in the snow crab (Kano-gani) season. If you have your timing right, you come during the very short reason for the female snow crab (Kobako-gani), called "flavour box" in Japanese for its wonderful taste. And if you are really lucky, Takuya Kataori, the Chef/Owner picked up some Matsutake... More
Most likely the best Kaiseki restaurant in Kanazawa. Especially in the snow crab (Kano-gani) season. If you have your timing right, you come during the very short reason for the female snow crab (Kobako-gani), called "flavour box" in Japanese for its wonderful taste. And if you are really lucky, Takuya Kataori, the Chef/Owner picked up some Matsutake from Suzu.
Kataori-san kills the Kobako-gani right in front of you and the gently grills the legs on the Binchōtan grill. He feels when it is perfectly done. he then cuts into half and gives it to you. The leg is just warm but still raw and incredibly delicious.
This place only opened in 2019 and it is becoming very fast famous and hard to book. So be prepared to book way in the advance.
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Lunch at L'évo at L'evo (レヴォ)
Last hurrah for Chef EIJI TANIGUCHI at L’Evo. Apparently he is leaving the River Retreat Garaku to set up his own shop somewhere deeper in the mountains. I am looking forward to his opening in the fall of 2020 as I always loved coming here for lunch.
The dining room is set next to the river with beautiful views and his food was always wonderful.... More
Last hurrah for Chef EIJI TANIGUCHI at L’Evo. Apparently he is leaving the River Retreat Garaku to set up his own shop somewhere deeper in the mountains. I am looking forward to his opening in the fall of 2020 as I always loved coming here for lunch.
The dining room is set next to the river with beautiful views and his food was always wonderful. Inspiring, modern but with a deep reference to traditional local cuisine, sourced from the surroundings and executed to perfection.
The good news is his sous chef will take over, so my hopes are high. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Lunch at Tsubajin (つば甚) at Tsubajin
Very traditional Kaiseki place. Only privat rooms. Classic approach to the food, excellent ingredients and flawless execution. Unlike other places in town reasonable priced.
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Local sushi place in the centre of town. Not the top quality of the fish but excellent technique by the Chef who trained at Taheizushi.
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at 京祇園ねぎ焼 粉 Kona at 京祇園ねぎ焼 粉
Fantastic Okonomiyaki place around the corner from my apartment. Open late until 2am, always full with a Chef who is super friendly and very funny.
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Back at our local Yakiniku in Kyoto. This time we were very lucky, maybe because the president of Onishi also turned up.
We got three different cuts from the phantom beef, the Murasawa beef.
Usually the beef is named after the prefecture where it is coming from, not so Murasawa. The beef is so specific that it is called after the manufacturer. There... More
Back at our local Yakiniku in Kyoto. This time we were very lucky, maybe because the president of Onishi also turned up.
We got three different cuts from the phantom beef, the Murasawa beef.
Usually the beef is named after the prefecture where it is coming from, not so Murasawa. The beef is so specific that it is called after the manufacturer. There are three bloodlines which get traced pedantically in order to select the best cows for breeding. The cows are much older than normal when slaughtered and the annual contingent is only 80(!) cows. A rare treat which you only can get in very few places in Japan and no where overseas.
Whether we got the Murasawa beef because the president was there or vice versa, we don't know but we were very happy. Less
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