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travels for friends, food and wine - in exactly this order
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San Sebastian, Spain
Born
July 21
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Davies and Brook at Davies and Brook
The dining room of the Claridge’s used to be the domain of Gordon Ramsay until a few years ago. Then Simon Rogan took over, but his Nordic English cuisine did not quite fit the ambiente, so now they turned to Daniel Humm. He incidentally used to cook there as a very young cook, so it is a bit of a walk down memory lane for him.
For Davies and... More
The dining room of the Claridge’s used to be the domain of Gordon Ramsay until a few years ago. Then Simon Rogan took over, but his Nordic English cuisine did not quite fit the ambiente, so now they turned to Daniel Humm. He incidentally used to cook there as a very young cook, so it is a bit of a walk down memory lane for him.
For Davies and Brook (a New York play on the street names around the hotel) Chef Humm is rolling out an all time classics menu, as series of signature dishes. This might sound boring but it is not. I believe that he will earn very swiftly three stars and will then be one of the few London three star places which actually deserve to have them.
All dishes are very classical composed, with a fine calibration of flavours and acidity. The black cod, one of the many stand out dishes, cannot be cooked better. Glassy flakes of sweet fish paired with cabbage, Miso and kohlrabi gave an incredible flavour profile that one is tempted to ask for an encore. Luckily, we did not as when we entered the room we ran into Chef Humm coincidently. Not knowing that we were coming, he immediately took over the sequence of dishes and served us the XL version of the menu. His celeriac dish, braised with Black Truffle, can only be topped by Daniel Berlin in Sweden. The intensity of the flavour and texture of the celeriac is simply perfect.
I could now go on and on and describe every single dish but instead I suggest you just go there and enjoy the next new three star restaurant in London.
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Why is it that many people don't like Classic French cuisine? Some argue that it is boring because it is rather predictable. That might be, but so is sex with a long term partner and we still like it.
Matt Abé cooks at Gordon Ramsey classical French cuisine. He does it really well. He took over from Claire Smyth when she left to set up her own shop.... More
Why is it that many people don't like Classic French cuisine? Some argue that it is boring because it is rather predictable. That might be, but so is sex with a long term partner and we still like it.
Matt Abé cooks at Gordon Ramsey classical French cuisine. He does it really well. He took over from Claire Smyth when she left to set up her own shop. He tweaked the menu gently and applied some individual touches and techniques. And he creates excellent dishes. None of them push boundaries, they are not thought provoking and awake a social consciences, but they taste very well. The ingredients are excellent, the execution without any flaw, the flavours layered in exactly the pleasant way, and what really endears him to me, the level of acidity is high. For me as an acidity junkie perfect.
There are some classics, which I have eaten at Aubergine when GR was still working as a Chef, like the lobster ravioli. Slightly changed it still holds up as wonderful dish with all the components one would wish for. The sweetbread as well the turbot were cooked in the pan and had a fairly thick caramelised crust on top which enhanced the texture in the mouth, an interesting technique which is applied rarely. The pigeon from Bresse, rosé but not bleeding, comfort food on the highest possible level!
Jean Claude, the Maitre D’ since the inception of the restaurant, still does not recognise the people who came many times, but runs the front of thee house, efficient but personable.
I am glad I went back to check out this place after Ms. Smyth left, it is as good as it gets and deserves its three stars.
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Lunch at Punto MX at Punto Mx with Neil Walker
Cool place in Madrid, upstairs a bar which excellent drinks and the dining room below with miminmalistic decor.
Mexican Chef Roberto Ruiz serves his vision of a modern Mexican cuisine. The ingredients are natively sources in his own "Mexican" garden and some of the techniques he applies are very traditional.
He kicks you off with a guacamole prepared... More
Cool place in Madrid, upstairs a bar which excellent drinks and the dining room below with miminmalistic decor.
Mexican Chef Roberto Ruiz serves his vision of a modern Mexican cuisine. The ingredients are natively sources in his own "Mexican" garden and some of the techniques he applies are very traditional.
He kicks you off with a guacamole prepared table side to which he adds certain cranberry as he thinks the avocado in Mexico tastes different then the ones from Spain. The standout dish of the lunch was the Dirty Rice made with cuttle fish and huitlecoche Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at DiverXO at DiverXO
Dabis Muñoz is arguably one of the most creative Chefs working anywhere. His drive, his passion and his love of defying convention is borderless. Thus he creates a menu of avant-garde dishes which draw inspiration from anywhere on earth, There is a nigiri, done his way, of course, Indian dishes from Goa which one would not recognise as such with getting... More
Dabis Muñoz is arguably one of the most creative Chefs working anywhere. His drive, his passion and his love of defying convention is borderless. Thus he creates a menu of avant-garde dishes which draw inspiration from anywhere on earth, There is a nigiri, done his way, of course, Indian dishes from Goa which one would not recognise as such with getting prompted by the attentive front of the house. Occasionally the Chef feeds you a almost traditional dish like the firefly octopus from Galicia, just to throw you off balance.
All dishes are superbly executed and calibrated, most of them have a fairly spice level but create wonderful favour combinations.
The menu is long and the dishes generous portioned, so one walks out sedated but with the happy thought to have participated in a tour de force though-out the travel and phantasy of Chef Muñoz. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Lunch at La Tasquita de Enfrente at La Tasquita de Enfrente with Neil Walker
Wonderful lunch at la Tasquita. They have a tasting menu but you might as well order starters a la carte and share it with your fellow dinners.
Some very interesting and very typical Spanish dishes are on offer, all of them well sourced and executed.
I loved on of the most common dishes, the albondigas - meat balls - from filet, only seared on the... More
Wonderful lunch at la Tasquita. They have a tasting menu but you might as well order starters a la carte and share it with your fellow dinners.
Some very interesting and very typical Spanish dishes are on offer, all of them well sourced and executed.
I loved on of the most common dishes, the albondigas - meat balls - from filet, only seared on the outside and raw in the inside, awesome. The calamar comes wrapped in aluminium foil, is cut in half and cooked in its own juices.
Great place to go there, even though the streets outside are looking a bit doggy. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Coque at Coque with Neil Walker
I have not been to Coque in Madrid, however visited the restaurant a few times in their old location outside Madrid.
The concept is about the same, where they move you through various stage, from the bar to the wine cellar to the dining room and back into the lounge. I like this as it keeps a multi hour meal interesting because of the change of scenery.
The... More
I have not been to Coque in Madrid, however visited the restaurant a few times in their old location outside Madrid.
The concept is about the same, where they move you through various stage, from the bar to the wine cellar to the dining room and back into the lounge. I like this as it keeps a multi hour meal interesting because of the change of scenery.
The food has evolved from the last meal there, the plating more elaborate and the table ware more artistic.
The suckling pig, as always was the outstanding dish, the family is doing this over hundred years, followed by the duck. The fish course, especially the slamonete was somewhat disappointing as their was not really flavour profile.
Overall a very good meal. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Lunch at Sacha at Sacha
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Lunch at Hof van Cleve at Hof van Cleve - Floris Van Der Veken with Neil Walker
Peter Goosen is one of the most reliable destinations one can think of. Tugged away in country side outside Ghent, he continues to produce food from outstanding ingredients, which he pairs with a never failing skill to create flavour profile which for this menu had a slight Asian touch.
The execution is flawless. Sitting there during lunch and enjoying... More
Peter Goosen is one of the most reliable destinations one can think of. Tugged away in country side outside Ghent, he continues to produce food from outstanding ingredients, which he pairs with a never failing skill to create flavour profile which for this menu had a slight Asian touch.
The execution is flawless. Sitting there during lunch and enjoying this food is without any doubt one of the great treats one can get in Belgium. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Chambre Séparée at Chambre Separee with Neil Walker
I love the development of Chambre Separee. Last time, the crew was obviously understaffed and Kobe had to work like a machine. This time the pace was more relaxed and not as gruelling,
The menu has evolved and includes extraordinarily three meat courses, goat, beef and duck. All well sourced and perfectly executed.
Even though all of the dishes... More
I love the development of Chambre Separee. Last time, the crew was obviously understaffed and Kobe had to work like a machine. This time the pace was more relaxed and not as gruelling,
The menu has evolved and includes extraordinarily three meat courses, goat, beef and duck. All well sourced and perfectly executed.
Even though all of the dishes are prepared on the open fire heath, the flavours are dominated by smoke like in other fire driven establishments.
It is das that this place will shut by the end of the year 2020 but I am sure Kobe will come up with something great. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Lunch at Lindwurmstüberl at Lindwurmstüberl
Old institution in Munich. Situated at a corner close to Center of Munich in an old flat roofed building. The owner refuses to sell out and cash in on his lucrative position to a real estate developer.
The chicken and pig’s legs are legendary. The beer is Augustiner, what else?
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