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travels for friends, food and wine - in exactly this order
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Xaver's at Xaver's
Atelier Xaver's, located on Rumfordstraße 35 in Munich, is a contemporary Bavarian restaurant that seamlessly blends traditional German cuisine with modern culinary innovation. Founded by the Portenlänger siblings—Xaver, Theresa, and Jakob—who hail from a family deeply rooted in the hospitality industry, Xaver's has quickly become a standout spot... More
Atelier Xaver's, located on Rumfordstraße 35 in Munich, is a contemporary Bavarian restaurant that seamlessly blends traditional German cuisine with modern culinary innovation. Founded by the Portenlänger siblings—Xaver, Theresa, and Jakob—who hail from a family deeply rooted in the hospitality industry, Xaver's has quickly become a standout spot in Munich’s Gärtnerplatzviertel district.
The interior is both modern and cozy, featuring dark green walls and velvet-upholstered stools, which create a warm and inviting atmosphere. The menu at Xaver's offers a perfect blend of classic Bavarian dishes and contemporary twists. Traditional options like roast pork and Wiener Schnitzel sit alongside modern creations such as beetroot risotto with walnuts and char ceviche on grilled green asparagus, particularly popular during asparagus season.
In my experience, Xaver's is an incredibly inviting and well-balanced restaurant where the atmosphere is both warm and contemporary. The menu impressively marries traditional Bavarian dishes with innovative modern twists, offering something for everyone. The service is attentive and friendly, which, combined with the quality of the food, makes dining at Xaver's a truly enjoyable experience. Whether you're a local or a visitor, this spot offers a perfect blend of the old and new in Munich's culinary scene.
Xaver's has also earned recognition for its food, service, and overall style, making it a must-visit for those looking to experience a fresh take on Bavarian cuisine. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Restaurant ES:SENZ at ES:SENZ
Atelier Es:Senz is a fine dining restaurant located at the Das Achental Resort in Grassau, Germany. Since its opening in 2021, Es:Senz has gained significant recognition under the leadership of Edip Sigl, its head chef. The restaurant has become known for its innovative cuisine and exceptional dining experience, earning multiple prestigious awards,... More
Atelier Es:Senz is a fine dining restaurant located at the Das Achental Resort in Grassau, Germany. Since its opening in 2021, Es:Senz has gained significant recognition under the leadership of Edip Sigl, its head chef. The restaurant has become known for its innovative cuisine and exceptional dining experience, earning multiple prestigious awards, including three Michelin stars in 2024.
Es:Senz was established as part of the luxurious Das Achental Resort, nestled in the scenic Chiemgau region of Bavaria. The name "Es:Senz" is derived from the initials of Edip Sigl, reflecting the personal connection and creativity he brings to the restaurant. Sigl, a German-Turkish chef, was born in Turkey and raised in Cologne. He trained at renowned establishments like Gut Lärchenhof and worked under celebrated chefs such as Juan Amador before taking the helm at Es:Senz in 2021.
Before his current role, Edip Sigl made a significant impact at Les Deux in Munich. He joined Les Deux in 2013 and was promoted to head chef in 2019. During his tenure, the restaurant achieved and maintained its two Michelin stars, further establishing Sigl’s reputation as a leading chef in Germany. His success at Les Deux paved the way for the remarkable achievements he would later accomplish at Es:Senz.
Edip Sigl's culinary prowess has been widely recognized. He was named "Chef of the Year 2023" by The Great Restaurant & Hotel Guide and has received numerous other accolades for his innovative approach to cuisine. Sigl's cooking is deeply influenced by the local Bavarian landscape, with a focus on sourcing ingredients from the Chiemgau region. His dishes are known for their sophisticated yet straightforward flavors, often enhanced by complex sauces and essences.
In an impressively short time, Es:Senz has been awarded two Michelin stars in 2022 and 2023, followed by the coveted third Michelin star in 2024. The restaurant is also highly rated by other prestigious guides, such as the Falstaff Restaurant Guide, where it received an "excellent" rating. Additionally, the restaurant's sommelier, Iiro Lutter, and its patissière, Desiree Nieder, have also received significant accolades for their contributions.
Es:Senz offers a unique and immersive dining experience that stands out in the German culinary scene. The restaurant specializes in multi-course tasting menus that showcase the finest regional ingredients, transformed into dishes that blend traditional Bavarian elements with modern techniques. The menu is known for its precision and balance, with highlights like Chiemsee whitefish with a tomato-Kombucha base and saddle of venison with raisin sauce. The dining experience is further enhanced by creative touches like the use of Szechuan buttons as palate cleansers, adding a surprising twist to the meal.
During a recent visit, the meal began with a series of appetizers, each one a small yet thoughtful creation. The APERO es:senz dishes, such as "Die Wolke" with its intriguing combination of vinegar, Wurzelspeck, and breadcrumbs, set the stage nicely, delivering a slightly salty but satisfying taste. "Mon Cherrie" was a standout, with the duck liver and Perigord truffle offering just the right amount of richness without overpowering the palate. However, not every dish was flawless. The Tartelette with shrimp, finger lime, and herbs felt a bit underwhelming, lacking the excitement I anticipated. In contrast, the Macaron with Renke, fennel, and sour cream was a delightful bite, showcasing a perfect balance of flavors. The Tomate dish with homemade cream cheese and chardonnay vinegar was another high note, offering a fresh and vibrant taste.
The Amuse Bouche course truly impressed, particularly the Bachforelle—a delicate combination of jelly with a hint of sweetness, balanced by the umami of chicken breast, caviar, and truffle. The Brathähnchen was another strong contender, with its intense soup and the luxurious texture of chicken fat melting into a broth enriched with celeriac.
As the meal progressed into the main courses, the culinary journey became even more exciting. The Gelbschwanzmakrele was a well-composed dish, though the ponzu could have used a touch more acidity. However, it is important to note that a dish with yellowtail mackerel has become unfortunately too common. I wish chefs would stop producing this dish. In Europe, the quality of this dish never reaches the level of Japanese standards, and it is getting rather boring. The Langostino stood out as one of the best dishes of the evening, with perfectly cooked langoustine, a delightfully crispy chicken skin, and a subtle yet impactful wasabi beurre blanc.
The Wildfang Steinbutt was a masterclass in texture and flavor, with grilled turbot that was both firm and tender, accompanied by contrasting tomato sauces that played beautifully off each other. The refreshing interlude of the Sezhuan Bud and lemon granite was an unexpected and delightful palate cleanser, both strong and unusual in its impact.
The Poltinger Lamm was perhaps the highlight of the meal, featuring lamb that was extraordinarily tender and flavorful. The rendered fat was crispy and packed with umami, complemented by a salad of lamb tongue that added depth to the dish. This was undoubtedly one of the finest lamb dishes I’ve had the pleasure of tasting.
The meal concluded with a series of desserts that were both creative and satisfying. The Ziegenkäse with apricot, olive, and aged balsamic was well-balanced, with the vinaigrette and accompanying garlic bread adding layers of flavor. The Safraneis and Früchte desserts provided a refreshing and sweet ending to the meal, with the final Petit Four selection rounding off the experience with finesse.
Es:Senz is distinct for its dedication to local ingredients and its innovative interpretation of Bavarian cuisine. The restaurant’s commitment to excellence is reflected not just in the quality of the food, but in the comprehensive dining experience it offers, from the setting at the luxurious Das Achental Resort to the personalized service. This, combined with its rapid ascent to three Michelin stars, places Es:Senz among the top dining establishments not only in Germany but also on the global stage. For anyone visiting Bavaria, particularly the Chiemgau region, Es:Senz offers a dining experience that blends the best of local tradition with cutting-edge culinary artistry, making it a standout in the world of fine dining. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Pepe In Grani at Pepe in Grani
Atelier Pepe in Grani is a renowned pizzeria located in Caiazzo, a small town in the province of Caserta, Italy. The restaurant has gained worldwide acclaim for its innovative approach to pizza-making, blending traditional Neapolitan techniques with creative, modern twists.
Atelier Pepe in Grani was founded by Franco Pepe in 2012. Franco Pepe, born... More
Atelier Pepe in Grani is a renowned pizzeria located in Caiazzo, a small town in the province of Caserta, Italy. The restaurant has gained worldwide acclaim for its innovative approach to pizza-making, blending traditional Neapolitan techniques with creative, modern twists.
Atelier Pepe in Grani was founded by Franco Pepe in 2012. Franco Pepe, born into a family of bakers, initially pursued a career as a physical education teacher before embracing his culinary heritage. He took the bold step of opening his own pizzeria in Caiazzo, choosing a location off the beaten path rather than in a major city like Naples. This decision was driven by his desire to stay close to his roots and maintain a strong connection to the local community and ingredients.
The pizzeria is situated in a beautifully restored historic building, which adds to its charm and unique ambiance. Franco Pepe's vision was to create more than just a pizzeria; he wanted an "atelier," or workshop, where the art of pizza-making could be explored, refined, and celebrated. The name "Pepe in Grani" reflects this vision, with "Grani" referring to grains, emphasizing the importance of flour and its quality in the pizza-making process.
Franco Pepe is widely regarded as one of the best pizza chefs in the world. His background is deeply rooted in the culinary traditions of his family, particularly the art of bread-making, which he learned from his father. However, what sets Franco Pepe apart is his innovative spirit and willingness to experiment with ingredients and techniques, pushing the boundaries of what pizza can be.
Pepe’s pizzas are characterized by their light, airy dough, which undergoes a meticulous and lengthy fermentation process. He uses only the finest local ingredients, often sourced directly from producers in the Campania region. His dedication to quality and his relentless pursuit of perfection have earned him numerous accolades and a loyal following among food enthusiasts and critics alike.
Pepe in Grani has received significant recognition from both national and international culinary communities. Some of its notable accolades include being consistently ranked among the best pizzerias globally, often taking the top spot in various rankings such as "50 Top Pizza." The pizzeria has also been awarded Three Forks by Gambero Rosso, a prestigious Italian food and wine guide, which gave Pepe in Grani its highest honor for pizzerias. Although pizzerias traditionally don't receive Michelin stars, Pepe in Grani has been recommended by the Michelin Guide, highlighting its exceptional quality. Franco Pepe has also been invited to various international food events, where he showcases his craft and shares his philosophy on pizza-making.
Customers rave about the experience at Pepe in Grani, often highlighting the unique texture and flavor of the pizzas. The dough is frequently described as light and digestible, with a perfect balance of chewiness and crispness. The toppings, sourced from local producers, are praised for their freshness and quality. Reviewers also mention the warm and welcoming atmosphere of the pizzeria, as well as the personal attention provided by Franco Pepe, who often visits tables to explain his dishes and engage with diners. The service is described as attentive and knowledgeable, enhancing the overall dining experience.
Over the years, Pepe in Grani has expanded its offerings while staying true to its core philosophy. Franco Pepe has introduced new pizza varieties that reflect his continuous experimentation with ingredients and techniques. One of the most significant milestones for the pizzeria was the opening of "La Casa di Pepe," a small guesthouse located within the same building as the pizzeria. This allows guests to fully immerse themselves in the experience, spending the night in Caiazzo and enjoying an extended tasting menu that showcases the best of what Pepe in Grani has to offer.
Pepe in Grani stands out for several reasons. Franco Pepe is known for his creativity, and his menu includes unique pizzas that are not found elsewhere. For example, his signature pizza, the "Margherita Sbagliata" (Mistaken Margherita), is a deconstructed version of the classic, with a twist that surprises and delights diners. Pepe’s commitment to sourcing local ingredients is a cornerstone of his approach. He works closely with farmers and producers in the region, ensuring that his pizzas are not only delicious but also a celebration of Campania's culinary heritage. Every aspect of the dining experience at Pepe in Grani is carefully curated, from the dough-making process to the presentation of the pizzas. This meticulous attention to detail is part of what makes dining at Pepe in Grani a special experience. Franco Pepe often uses his pizzeria as a platform to educate both his staff and guests about the intricacies of pizza-making, the importance of quality ingredients, and the cultural significance of the dish.
Our dinner at the AUTHENTICA counter at Pepe in Grani was nothing short of extraordinary, offering a rare and intimate dining experience that combined authenticity with innovation. Typically closed in August, Franco Pepe made an exception for us, opening his exclusive space where the boundaries between chef and diner dissolve, creating an immersive culinary journey.
The evening was part of the 'Authentica Inspirazione' series, which brings together the creativity of guest chefs with Franco Pepe’s mastery of pizza-making, all centered around the finest products from the Alto Casertano region. From the moment we sat down, it was clear that this was not just a meal, but a deep dive into the heart of Italian gastronomy.
The meal began with Sensazione di Costiera, a dish that captured the essence of the Amalfi Coast with its bright combination of ramato tomatoes, Cetara anchovies, parsley, dehydrated garlic, lemon zest, and chili pepper. This was followed by Ciro, an elegant cone filled with 12-month Grana Padano fondue, rocket pesto, and dehydrated Caiazzo black olives—each bite a perfect blend of rich and sharp flavors.
The Margherita Sbagliata, one of Pepe’s signature dishes, offered a deconstructed take on the classic Margherita, allowing the Campana DOP Buffalo mozzarella, "riccio" tomato purée, basil reduction, and EVO oil to shine individually yet harmoniously. Then came Scarpetta, a luxurious interpretation of the traditional Italian practice of mopping up sauce, featuring layers of Campana DOP Buffalo mozzarella, Grana Padano fondue, uncooked cold tomato compote, freeze-dried pesto basil, and flakes of 24-month Grana Padano cheese.
Bufala Profumata was a refreshing course, combining Buffalo mozzarella DOP and buffalo bresaola with the zesty notes of lime, sesame seeds, garlic-infused olive oil, and black pepper. This dish was a masterclass in balancing richness with acidity. Next was La Ritrovata, a deeply personal dish dedicated to Franco Pepe’s father. With its San Marzano DOP tomato purée, Piennolo DOP tomatoes, dried capers, Caiazzo black olive powder, Cetara anchovy fillets, and fried basil, it was a tribute to tradition, elevated by refined techniques.
Alletterata introduced us to an innovative combination of Alife onion cream, Campana DOP buffalo mozzarella, little tunny, celery, and EVO oil, offering a sophisticated interplay of creamy and savory elements. The final savory dish, La Riccia Ripiegata, was comforting and hearty, with Fiordilatte cheese, smoked scamorza, dried Casertano pork sausage, uncooked frisée, oregano, and EVO oil. This dish perfectly encapsulated the rustic yet refined approach that defines Franco Pepe’s cuisine.
For dessert, Crisommola del Vesuvio presented a slice of fried pizza topped with lemon peel-flavored buffalo ricotta, Vesuvio apricot jam, roasted hazelnuts, dehydrated Caiazzo olives, and fresh mint. It was a delightful balance of sweet and savory, with the apricot jam adding a burst of fruitiness against the creamy ricotta. The meal concluded with Straccetti Miele e Rosmarino, fried pizza strips with sugar, cinnamon, honey, vanilla-flavored buffalo ricotta, rosemary, and orange zest—a sweet and aromatic finish to an unforgettable evening.
Our dinner at the AUTHENTICA counter was a truly exceptional experience. The combination of Franco Pepe’s culinary artistry, the quality of the local ingredients, and the intimate setting made this a night to remember. While each dish was rooted in tradition, the innovative touches and the personal connection to the region's heritage elevated the meal to a level that few dining experiences can match. It was an evening that showcased the future of Italian cuisine while honoring its rich past, leaving us both inspired and thoroughly satisfied. Atelier Pepe in Grani is not just a pizzeria; it is a destination for pizza lovers and culinary enthusiasts from around the world. Franco Pepe's dedication to his craft, his innovative spirit, and his deep respect for tradition have made Pepe in Grani a standout in the global culinary scene. Whether you're visiting for the world-class pizzas, the charming atmosphere, or the opportunity to learn from one of the best in the business, a meal at Pepe in Grani is an experience that goes beyond the plate. Less
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Atelier Moessmer, nestled in Brunico, South Tyrol, represents a significant chapter in the illustrious career of chef Norbert Niederkofler. Opened in July 2023, the restaurant is housed in a historic villa that was once part of the Moessmer Woolen Mill, an establishment known for producing luxury textiles for brands like Prada and Louis Vuitton. For... More
Atelier Moessmer, nestled in Brunico, South Tyrol, represents a significant chapter in the illustrious career of chef Norbert Niederkofler. Opened in July 2023, the restaurant is housed in a historic villa that was once part of the Moessmer Woolen Mill, an establishment known for producing luxury textiles for brands like Prada and Louis Vuitton. For Niederkofler, who lives nearby, this venture is both a personal and professional triumph, fulfilling a long-held dream.
The culinary philosophy at Atelier Moessmer is deeply intertwined with Niederkofler’s "Cook the Mountain" concept, which emphasizes sustainability and the use of locally sourced Alpine ingredients. The restaurant offers a unique dining experience, with a menu that evolves with the seasons, and dishes crafted with a rustic authenticity. Fire, rather than modern kitchen technologies like sous-vide, is the primary cooking method, resulting in bold and innovative dishes such as deer blood sausage and veal tongue. These dishes highlight a commitment to utilizing every part of the animal, reflecting the restaurant's dedication to ethical practices. The design of the restaurant further enhances the experience, with different spaces dedicated to various stages of the meal, including an aperitivo room and a chef’s table where guests can observe the kitchen in action.
Despite being open for only a short time, Atelier Moessmer has quickly garnered significant recognition, including three Michelin stars and a Green Star for sustainability. These accolades underscore the exceptional quality of the cuisine and the restaurant's commitment to ethical practices. Beyond his work at Atelier Moessmer, Niederkofler has taken on a significant role in NEOM, a futuristic city project in Saudi Arabia, where he is responsible for hospitality and sustainability. His involvement in this project aligns with his broader commitment to sustainable food systems on a global scale. Additionally, Niederkofler is passionate about mentoring the next generation of chefs, believing that the future of "Cook the Mountain" depends on empowering young people. He has expressed concerns that without passing on his knowledge and values, his vision for sustainable cuisine may not endure.
The dining experience at Atelier Moessmer reflects this philosophy. It begins with a selection of snacks served in the garden, including piada, a tartlet with freshwater prawns, "Bauerntoast," and churros, setting a relaxed yet refined tone. At the kitchen counter, the first course is a vibrant summer salad composed of 40 different herbs, leaves, and flowers, paired with a tomato-butter sauce reminiscent of Sauce Choron. The salad’s lively freshness and balanced bitterness are complemented by the umami-rich sauce, making it a superb introduction to the menu.
The smoked trout, slightly smoked in a cream sauce with olive oil, is exquisite, offering delicate flavors enhanced by the light smokiness. The accompanying bread, presented in two different forms, and butter are equally impressive, showcasing attention to detail even in the simplest elements. A highlight of the meal is the White Fish Tartare, a signature dish that perfectly captures the essence of Niederkofler’s philosophy. The warm, tender fish, topped with crispy skin and accompanied by a flavorful sauce made from local white wine and fish parts, is both refined and satisfying.
The beetroot gnocchi, filled with a spicy horseradish cream and complemented by a mild daikon purée and crunchy beer earth crumbs, is another standout. The dish is familiar yet exciting, with a slightly spicier edge that elevates its complexity. The risotto, topped with melting cheeses and herbs, delivers a wonderful balance of creaminess, making it a fantastic dish. Although the snails, served with herbs, are well-executed, they don’t quite reach the heights of the other offerings.
The Tyrolean beef, featuring local breeds like Alpine Grey or Pustertaler Sprinzen, is extraordinary. The meat’s texture and fat content are impeccable, embodying the richness of the South Tyrolean terroir. Desserts bring the meal to a satisfying close with offerings such as apricot and zabaglione, rhubarb and yoghurt, and "Cucciolone" or vol-au-vent. The Madeleine with jelly is a delightful bite, and the Tarte Tatin, with its airy puff pastry and perfectly balanced sweetness, capped with melting yogurt ice cream, is a masterful finale.
Overall, Atelier Moessmer delivers an extraordinary dining experience that seamlessly blends local tradition with innovative culinary techniques, all within a setting that honors the rich heritage of South Tyrol. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Gino e Toto Sorbillo at Gino Sorbillo
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Quattro Passi, located in the picturesque town of Nerano on Italy’s Amalfi Coast, is a dining establishment that embodies the essence of Italian coastal cuisine. Founded in 1984 by Antonio Mellino, the restaurant has a rich history that began over forty years ago. Initially, the Mellino family’s home in Marina del Cantone was known for selling home-raised... More
Quattro Passi, located in the picturesque town of Nerano on Italy’s Amalfi Coast, is a dining establishment that embodies the essence of Italian coastal cuisine. Founded in 1984 by Antonio Mellino, the restaurant has a rich history that began over forty years ago. Initially, the Mellino family’s home in Marina del Cantone was known for selling home-raised chicken eggs, a nod to which is seen in the restaurant's recurring egg design element. Later, the family opened a pizzeria, named "Quattro Passi," meaning "four steps," reflecting its proximity to the sea. Although the walk to the sea actually takes about fifteen minutes, the pizzeria quickly gained popularity, attracting long lines of customers. Recognizing this success, Antonio Mellino decided to expand the menu beyond just pizza, introducing a variety of dishes that laid the foundation for what would become a world-class dining destination.
Over the years, Quattro Passi has evolved from a humble pizzeria into a prestigious fine dining restaurant, celebrated for its dedication to fresh, local ingredients and innovative culinary techniques. Antonio Mellino built the restaurant’s reputation by focusing on the rich culinary traditions of the Amalfi Coast while infusing them with his creative vision. Recently, Antonio passed the torch to his grandson, Fabrizio Mellino, who now serves as the head chef. Fabrizio, who trained under his father and gained experience in esteemed kitchens around the world, has continued the family legacy while bringing a fresh, modern perspective to the cuisine. Remarkably, Fabrizio was only 30 years old when his kitchen was awarded three Michelin stars in November of last year, a significant achievement that underscores his talent and dedication.
Fabrizio’s brother, Raffaele Mellino, plays a crucial role as the restaurant’s sommelier. He curates an extensive wine collection that features over 1,000 labels from Italy and beyond, carefully selected to complement the restaurant’s menu. Raffaele’s expertise in wine pairings enhances the overall dining experience, adding another layer of sophistication to Quattro Passi’s offerings.
The restaurant’s accolades include three Michelin stars, solidifying its status as one of the finest dining establishments not only in Italy but also on a global scale. This recognition reflects the exceptional quality, innovation, and comprehensive dining experience that Quattro Passi offers, with Fabrizio and Raffaele Mellino at the helm. The restaurant also enjoys praise from other esteemed culinary guides and organizations, such as Gambero Rosso and L’Espresso, further highlighting its excellence in cuisine, service, and ambiance.
Guests at Quattro Passi frequently commend the restaurant for its idyllic setting, perched above the stunning Amalfi Coast, offering breathtaking views that enhance the dining experience. The menu, which showcases the best of the region’s ingredients—such as fresh seafood and locally grown vegetables—is celebrated for its balance of flavors and artistic presentation. The expansion of the restaurant’s terrace has allowed more diners to enjoy these views, particularly during the warmer months.
Quattro Passi stands out for its farm-to-table philosophy, sourcing ingredients from its own gardens and local producers, ensuring that each dish is fresh and deeply connected to the region’s heritage. The restaurant’s blend of rustic charm and modern elegance creates an inviting atmosphere that, combined with its culinary excellence, makes Quattro Passi a must-visit destination for food lovers from around the world.
The dining experience at Quattro Passi began with an Amuse Bouche that set a refined and inviting tone for the meal. It offered a subtle yet tantalizing introduction to the flavors that would follow, preparing the palate with its delicate balance and thoughtful presentation.
The first course, "My Garden," was a celebration of simplicity and freshness, featuring tomato vegetation water, extra virgin olive oil, and a medley of basil and rocket flowers. This dish encapsulated the essence of a garden in full bloom, with the pure, unadulterated flavors of the ingredients shining through. The tomato water, in particular, provided a light, refreshing base that complemented the aromatic herbs beautifully.
Next was the intriguingly named "Lardo," a dish that played with expectations and textures. Although labeled as "Lardo," it actually featured cuttlefish, which had been transformed into a form reminiscent of thinly sliced bacon. The presentation was as artistic as it was appetizing, with the cuttlefish placed delicately on a plate decorated with floral motifs. The accompanying socca, a chickpea flour pancake popular in Nice, added a delightful, slightly crisp element to the dish, while a cool green soup made with broad beans and aromatic flowers provided a refreshing contrast. The use of spices to enhance the cuttlefish offered a more pronounced flavor profile than the previous course, creating a dish that was both visually stunning and deeply satisfying.
The "Squid Flower" followed, featuring a langoustine tartare topped with Oscietra caviar and green apple water. This dish unfolded its flavors gradually, beginning with a subtle introduction before revealing a complex and intriguing maritime profile. The tartare and caviar created a luxurious texture, while the green apple water contributed a crisp acidity that perfectly highlighted the sea's clean, salty essence. The dish's progression from neutrality to a fully realized oceanic experience was particularly impressive, showcasing the chef’s skill in balancing and layering flavors.
The "Red Mullet Wafer" offered a sophisticated interplay of potatoes, orange, and rosemary. This dish was light yet flavorful, with the citrus notes of the orange and the herbal rosemary complementing the rich taste of the red mullet. The wafer added a delightful crunch, making this dish a memorable highlight.
The extended pasta courses were the heart of the meal, each showcasing Quattro Passi’s mastery of this Italian staple. The "Linguine alla Nerano," with zucchini, basil, and black pepper, was a simple yet deeply satisfying dish, the perfectly al dente pasta allowing the flavors to meld harmoniously. The "Fusilli Pasta" with sea urchin and raw red prawns was an indulgent course, the rich, briny sea urchin balanced by the sweetness of the prawns.
The "Mezza Manica Pasta" combined yellowtail butter, pine nuts, and baby capers water, offering a wonderful combination of flavors that was both rich and subtly tangy. This was followed by a risotto made with pea sprouts and a concept intriguingly described as "the life cycle of vegetables." This risotto stood out for its fresh, high acidity, a perfect palate cleanser before the final savory courses.
The "Gnocco" stuffed with lamb shoulder and accompanied by raw San Marzano tomatoes and mozzarella was a dish of rich, deep flavors. The gnocco itself was pillowy and comforting, the lamb shoulder offering a satisfying, hearty bite, beautifully complemented by the freshness of the tomatoes and the creamy mozzarella.
The "Sea Bass" with wood sorrel and Amalfi lemon sauce was another standout, with the creamy, rich lemon sauce adding a bright, tangy counterpoint to the perfectly cooked fish. The final savory course, veal fillet in white wine sauce, was exceptional, the sauce itself being a masterclass in balance and depth, with herbs on top providing a fragrant finish.
The meal concluded with an elegant dessert and petit fours, both of which provided a sweet, satisfying end to a truly remarkable dining experience. The attention to detail, the progression of flavors, and the impeccable service all contributed to a meal that was as thoughtful as it was delicious, leaving a lasting impression of Quattro Passi’s culinary excellence. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Hiša Franko at Hisa Franko
Ana Roš is a self-taught chef who has risen to international prominence, transforming her restaurant, Hiša Franko, into a world-renowned culinary destination. Situated in the scenic Soča Valley near Kobarid, Slovenia, Hiša Franko boasts a rich history, but it was Roš’s unique vision that brought it global recognition.
Born on December 31,... More
Ana Roš is a self-taught chef who has risen to international prominence, transforming her restaurant, Hiša Franko, into a world-renowned culinary destination. Situated in the scenic Soča Valley near Kobarid, Slovenia, Hiša Franko boasts a rich history, but it was Roš’s unique vision that brought it global recognition.
Born on December 31, 1972, in Šempeter pri Gorici, Slovenia, Ana Roš grew up in a family that placed a strong emphasis on education and culture. Her father was a doctor, and her mother a journalist, which led Roš to excel in academics, particularly languages. Initially, she pursued a career in diplomacy, studying international relations at the University of Trieste in Italy.
Roš’s life took an unexpected turn when she met Valter Kramar, a sommelier whose family owned Hiša Franko. Though she had no formal culinary training, Roš became increasingly involved in the family business. Discovering a passion for cooking, she decided to take over the kitchen and taught herself to cook, drawing inspiration from local ingredients and traditions.
Under Roš’s leadership, Hiša Franko evolved from a traditional inn into an innovative and highly respected restaurant. Her approach to cooking is deeply connected to the local environment of the Soča Valley. She emphasizes “zero kilometer” sourcing, meaning that almost all ingredients used in her dishes are sourced from the immediate area. This includes wild herbs and plants from the surrounding mountains, fish from the Soča River, and meats and dairy from nearby farms.
Roš’s cuisine is a modern interpretation of traditional Slovenian dishes, combining contemporary techniques with the essence of the region’s flavors. Her menus change with the seasons, reflecting the freshest available ingredients. This approach not only supports local farmers and producers but also ensures that each dish is an authentic representation of the Slovenian terroir.
Ana Roš gained international recognition in 2016 when she was featured in Netflix’s *Chef’s Table*. The series highlighted her innovative cooking and deep connection to the Slovenian landscape, bringing global attention to Hiša Franko. Following this, she was named the World’s Best Female Chef in 2017 by *The World’s 50 Best Restaurants*, solidifying her place among the world’s top chefs.
Hiša Franko received its first Michelin star in 2020, when the Michelin Guide began covering Slovenia, marking a significant milestone for the restaurant and Slovenian cuisine. The restaurant was awarded a second star in 2023, and most recently, it achieved the prestigious third Michelin star. This third star is a rare and significant honor, placing Hiša Franko among the world’s most elite dining establishments. It reflects the consistency, creativity, and high standards that Ana Roš and her team maintain.
Ana Roš’s culinary philosophy focuses on sustainability, local sourcing, and innovation. She is committed to preserving Slovenia’s culinary traditions while pushing the boundaries of what can be achieved with local ingredients. Her work has been instrumental in elevating Slovenia’s profile on the global culinary stage, making the country a destination for food enthusiasts worldwide.
Beyond her work at Hiša Franko, Roš is an influential figure in the culinary community, advocating for sustainable practices and the importance of local food cultures. Her journey from aspiring diplomat to three-Michelin-starred chef is a story of passion, perseverance, and creativity, inspiring chefs and food lovers around the world.
Under Ana Roš’s leadership, Hiša Franko is not just a restaurant; it’s a reflection of Slovenia’s rich culinary heritage and a symbol of its future. The restaurant’s location in the serene Soča Valley adds to its unique appeal, offering a dining experience that is deeply rooted in tradition and innovative in its execution.
We recently had the pleasure of dining at Hiša Franko, and our experience was remarkable. The menu showcased a thoughtful selection of dishes that effectively utilized the region's fresh and local ingredients, highlighting the skill and creativity of the kitchen.
The lineup of starters was impressive, with each dish offering something unique. The "50 Shades of Red" theme was intriguing and delivered well in execution. The garden leaves with brown butter emulsion, quail egg, and Istrian summer truffle was a standout, setting the tone for the meal with its balanced flavors. The celeriac with crab and foraged greens, accented by mustard seeds, was another highlight—earthy and refreshing.
Among the courses, the pasta dishes left a lasting impression. The tagliolini with clams and melon was especially memorable, thanks to the surprising depth of flavor. The use of coffee oil added an unexpected but welcome twist, bringing out the umami in a way I hadn’t experienced before. It was so well-executed that we decided to order another round of pasta dishes, a decision everyone at the table was happy with.
The HF classics, like the hay-baked potato with fenugreek and roasted yeast-infused sour cream, along with the corn beignet with fermented cottage cheese and smoked trout roe, lived up to their reputation. These dishes highlighted the restaurant’s ability to take simple, high-quality ingredients and elevate them with precise technique.
The main courses were equally satisfying. The trout, a local favorite, was prepared with care and respect for the ingredient. The roebuck with oyster and kiwi was a bold combination that worked surprisingly well, balancing richness with acidity.
Desserts did not disappoint either. The dumpling with caramelized walnut, roasted apples, spices, and fonduta of local cheese was a well-crafted blend of sweetness and spice, perfectly ending the meal.
During our meal, we opted to order wine by the bottle but also decided to try the juice pairing. It turned out to be one of the best juice pairings I’ve ever experienced. Each juice was thoughtfully curated, complementing the dishes perfectly with vibrant and nuanced flavors. The juices brought out different elements in the dishes, adding another layer of enjoyment to the meal. It was a refreshing and innovative alternative to traditional wine pairings, and I would highly recommend it to anyone dining at Hiša Franko.
Overall, Hiša Franko delivered a dining experience that was both innovative and deeply connected to the local terroir. The dishes were well-conceived and executed, with each course offering something distinct and memorable. The juice pairing was a standout aspect of the evening, contributing to an already exceptional dining experience. It was clear why Hiša Franko has earned its reputation as a top dining destination. Less
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