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travels for friends, food and wine - in exactly this order
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San Sebastian, Spain
Born
July 21
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Tantris at Tantris
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Etz Restaurant at etz
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Lunch at Le Bon Georges at Le Bon Georges
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Tanguy at Tanguy
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Lunch at Lido 84 at Lido 84
Atelier Lido 84, situated on Lake Garda in Gardone Riviera, Italy, is a highly esteemed restaurant founded in 2014 by brothers Riccardo and Giancarlo Camanini. Known for its seamless blend of traditional Italian flavors and innovative techniques, Lido 84 has quickly gained international acclaim, including a Michelin star and a spot on *The World’s... More
Atelier Lido 84, situated on Lake Garda in Gardone Riviera, Italy, is a highly esteemed restaurant founded in 2014 by brothers Riccardo and Giancarlo Camanini. Known for its seamless blend of traditional Italian flavors and innovative techniques, Lido 84 has quickly gained international acclaim, including a Michelin star and a spot on *The World’s 50 Best Restaurants* list. Chef Riccardo’s approach, marked by meticulous craftsmanship and the celebration of imperfection, shines through in signature dishes like *Cacio e Pepe en Vessie*. A recent 14-dish lunch highlighted the restaurant's prowess, especially its outstanding pasta, hailed as some of the best in Italy. Dishes like the monkfish and veal sweetbread exemplify the restaurant's philosophy of purity, where each ingredient is presented with minimal embellishment. Overall, Lido 84 offers a dining experience that combines simplicity, precision, and stunning lake views, making it a must-visit culinary destination. Less
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Atelier Le Table de Bruno Verjus is a celebrated Parisian restaurant, renowned for its distinctive approach to cuisine under the guidance of its self-taught head chef, Bruno Verjus. Established in 2013, the restaurant quickly gained acclaim for its minimalist style and emphasis on high-quality ingredients, sourced directly from small farmers and artisans.... More
Atelier Le Table de Bruno Verjus is a celebrated Parisian restaurant, renowned for its distinctive approach to cuisine under the guidance of its self-taught head chef, Bruno Verjus. Established in 2013, the restaurant quickly gained acclaim for its minimalist style and emphasis on high-quality ingredients, sourced directly from small farmers and artisans. Verjus, who previously had successful careers in medicine, business, and food writing, leverages his deep understanding of flavors to create dishes that allow the natural essence of ingredients to shine. This philosophy has earned the restaurant significant recognition, including two Michelin stars, the first awarded in 2015 and the second in 2022, solidifying its status as a top dining destination in Paris.
Known for its elegant yet unpretentious ambiance, Atelier Le Table offers a unique dining experience, with an open kitchen design that encourages interaction and transparency. Customers and critics alike appreciate the simplicity and purity of the dishes, which are consistently praised for their innovative yet comforting flavors. The restaurant also stands out for its commitment to sustainability, reflecting Verjus's dedication to using only the finest, sustainably sourced ingredients.
A personal touch from Verjus, who often engages directly with guests, adds to the restaurant's charm. Over the years, the menu has evolved, with a focus on seasonal ingredients and a curated wine list that complements the natural flavors of the dishes. The restaurant’s unwavering dedication to simplicity and the integrity of ingredients continues to make it a standout in the Paris dining scene.
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I've been a long-time admirer of Atelier Le Table de Bruno Verjus, a place that has consistently delivered memorable meals that linger in the mind long after the last bite. However, my most recent visit left me with a feeling I hadn't experienced before at this establishment: a sense of underwhelm.
The evening started on a promising note, as it always does, with the poetic ambiance and the tantalizing menu. The "Color of the Day" dish, typically a vibrant celebration of fresh vegetables and wild herbs, was indeed visually appealing and playful in flavor. However, something was missing—a certain vibrancy or depth that I’ve come to expect from this dish. It was good, but not great, and in a restaurant like this, “good” feels like a letdown.
The "Sea Wonder" tarteline was a solid dish with a nice structure and creamy shrimps that were enjoyable, but it didn't quite reach the heights of previous visits. The "Grail" dish of cockles, cucumber water, and cucumber was a particular disappointment—slightly salty and, frankly, rather forgettable. It lacked the finesse and surprise that usually define the restaurant's offerings.
There were still high points in the meal, such as "The Deep Blue," where the Atlantic anchovies were expertly prepared with a tempura-like texture that was both delicate and flavorful. This was a reminder of why I fell in love with Bruno Verjus's cuisine in the first place. Similarly, the "Cold Artifice" with perfectly cooked artichokes and a savory plum sauce was delicious, though it didn’t quite elevate the experience as I had hoped.
Then came the "On the Shore" crab dish, which, while good, was underseasoned and could have benefited from more acidity to brighten it up. The highlight of the meal was undoubtedly the "Neither Raw Nor Cooked" lobster, which was a masterpiece—succulent, sweet, and almost creamy. Yet, this was followed by a string of dishes that continued to disappoint, including the "Moussetage" cauliflower mousseline, which, while nice, was unremarkable, and the "On the Line" grilled red mullet, which lacked the structure and texture needed to stand out.
The final savory dish, "Beyond Steak," was particularly uninspired. The Atlantic bluefin tuna was half-raw, half-cooked, but the dish felt unbalanced and, frankly, boring. This was a stark contrast to the usual creativity and execution I've come to associate with this restaurant.
Fortunately, the meal ended on a sweeter note with an excellent selection of cheeses from Bernard Antony and Hervé Mons, paired perfectly with a vigorously seasoned green salad. The desserts, especially the "Chocolate Tartlet Peru" and the "Magneleine," were wonderful, bringing a bit of the magic back to the table.
Agnese Morandi, the sommelier, was a saving grace throughout the evening. Her wine selections were impeccable, with each bottle thoughtfully chosen to complement the dishes. Her expertise truly enhanced the meal, even when the food itself didn’t always live up to expectations.
In the end, this meal left me with mixed feelings. It wasn't bad—far from it. But compared to my previous experiences here, it was underwhelming. Perhaps it was an off night, or maybe my expectations have been set too high by past visits. Regardless, while this experience has somewhat dampened my enthusiasm, it hasn't dissuaded me from returning. I still believe in the brilliance of Bruno Verjus and his team, and I’m hopeful that my next visit will recapture the magic that has always drawn me back. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Le Baratin at Le Baratin
Atelier Le Baratin, located in Belleville, Paris, is a well-known bistro admired for its creative, comforting French cuisine with Argentine influences. Established over two decades ago by chef Raquel Carena and her partner Philippe Pinoteau, it has played a key role in the "bistronomy" movement, offering high-quality dishes in a casual setting. However,... More
Atelier Le Baratin, located in Belleville, Paris, is a well-known bistro admired for its creative, comforting French cuisine with Argentine influences. Established over two decades ago by chef Raquel Carena and her partner Philippe Pinoteau, it has played a key role in the "bistronomy" movement, offering high-quality dishes in a casual setting. However, a recent dinner was disappointing: both starters and mains were tasteless, overcooked, and under-seasoned. Despite its ranking at #44 on the Opinionated About Dining list for European casual restaurants, it should be reconsidered. Additionally, payment issues with ApplePay, requiring another guest to cover the bill, further soured the experience. Returning seems unlikely after such a poor experience. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Alléno Paris at Alleno Paris
Pavillon Ledoyen, located on the famed Champs-Élysées, is one of Paris’s most storied dining establishments. The neo-classical building that houses the restaurant was constructed in 1842 by the renowned architect Jacques-Ignace Hittorff. However, the roots of this iconic venue extend much further back, intertwining with the history of the Champs-Élysées... More
Pavillon Ledoyen, located on the famed Champs-Élysées, is one of Paris’s most storied dining establishments. The neo-classical building that houses the restaurant was constructed in 1842 by the renowned architect Jacques-Ignace Hittorff. However, the roots of this iconic venue extend much further back, intertwining with the history of the Champs-Élysées itself.
The Champs-Élysées, often referred to as the most beautiful avenue in the world, shares an inseparable bond with Pavillon Ledoyen. This connection dates back to 1617 when Marie de Medici, the widow of Henri IV and mother of Louis XIII, initiated the first developments along what was then a simple path by the Seine. Her vision transformed the area into the grand promenade known as Cours de la Reine, laying the foundation for what would eventually become the Champs-Élysées.
In 1792, Antoine-Nicolas Doyen, a member of a distinguished family of caterers who had served the French monarchy since the time of Louis XV, rented one of the cabarets along the avenue. This modest establishment, initially named “Le Café de la Surprise,” quickly rose to prominence under Doyen’s stewardship. His innovations in French gastronomy, including the introduction of service “à la carte,” established the restaurant’s reputation, enduring through the French Revolution and the many political upheavals that followed.
The restaurant was later named after Doyen, becoming Pavillon Ledoyen, and it has remained a symbol of Parisian elegance and culinary excellence for over two centuries. In 2017, Pavillon Ledoyen celebrated its 225th anniversary, marking its place as one of the oldest and most prestigious dining venues in Paris.
In 2014, the restaurant entered a new chapter under the leadership of Yannick Alléno, who transformed it into Atelier Alléno Paris. His innovative approach to French cuisine, particularly through his pioneering sauce extraction techniques, quickly garnered acclaim. The restaurant has held three Michelin stars since 2015, a reflection of its exceptional quality and creativity.
In 2020, Pavillon Ledoyen achieved an extraordinary milestone, becoming the most Michelin-starred independent establishment in the world. This accolade was the result of maintaining three Michelin stars for Atelier Alléno Paris, earning two stars for L'Abysse (a sushi counter within the Pavillon), and securing one star for Pavyllon, Alléno’s more casual dining concept. This achievement solidified Pavillon Ledoyen’s status not just as a historical landmark, but as a contemporary epicenter of culinary innovation.
Today, Pavillon Ledoyen offers a unique blend of historical grandeur and cutting-edge gastronomy. Whether you are dining at the prestigious Atelier Alléno Paris, enjoying the refined sushi at L'Abysse, or experiencing the sophisticated yet approachable dishes at Pavyllon, the Pavillon Ledoyen remains a destination where history and modernity coexist harmoniously. This combination of legacy and innovation is what sets Pavillon Ledoyen apart, making it a quintessential Parisian experience.
Dining at Atelier Alléno Paris is a journey through the heights of modern French gastronomy, where tradition meets innovation under the skilled hands of Yannick Alléno. Each dish reflects a deep respect for ingredients and a mastery of technique that is both impressive and subtly refined.
The meal began with the Primeur, a seasonal ballad of vegetables that immediately recalled the elegance of Martin Berasategui's work. The dish, featuring a celeriac gelée, offered a delightful array of textures and flavors that set the tone for what was to come.
The Pretty Lady from Guilvinec—poached à la nage in a delicate celeriac broth and finished with a verdant "Vert pré" sauce—was a highlight. The langoustine, perfectly poached, was elevated by the freshness of herbs and a subtle lovage mayonnaise, creating a dish that was both refined and deeply satisfying.
Another standout was the Sturgeon "Nonette," a clever reinterpretation of the classic French pastry. This savory version, with its brioche-like fish cake filled with caviar and topped with farmhouse cream and a pepper-bacon marmalade, showcased Alléno's skill in transforming familiar elements into something entirely new and delightful.
The Blue Lobster was a masterpiece of texture and flavor. Cooked at a low temperature to preserve its delicate sweetness, the lobster was served with coral-flavored claws and a refreshing vegetable salad. The use of celery extraction and scented oils in the dish added layers of complexity without overpowering the natural flavors of the lobster.
For the main course, the Crispy Pigeon from Racan was an exercise in balance. The crispy skin provided a perfect counterpoint to the tender, red-cooked meat, all enhanced by Chapel's style jus and new potatoes dusted with sweet spices. This dish was a triumph of technique and taste, offering richness without excess.
The Millefeuille of Wagyu Beef and Paris White Mushrooms was particularly memorable. The dish presented Wagyu in a way that was both novel and distinctly European. Sliced into twenty thin layers, the beef was interspersed with mushrooms, creating a delicate millefeuille that was flavorful and far from the usual heavy treatment of Wagyu. It was an inspired dish that demonstrated how Japanese ingredients can be seamlessly integrated into European cuisine without merely copying trends.
The meal concluded with a delightful selection from the cheese trolley, featuring impeccably aged French cheeses, and a trio of desserts that showcased Alléno's playful creativity. The Guimauve with Capers Flowers was a standout, with its surprising combination of candied lemon and hazelnut extraction in jelly, providing a sweet yet savory finish.
In summary, this was a truly stunning meal—one of the best I’ve experienced in France. Yannick Alléno has a unique ability to take traditional concepts and transform them into something modern and original, as evidenced by the inventive Nonette. This is a dining experience that celebrates the best of French cuisine while pushing the boundaries in delightful and unexpected ways. Less