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travels for friends, food and wine - in exactly this order
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San Sebastian, Spain
Born
July 21
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Sushi Murayama at Sushi Murayama
Sushi Murayama in Ginza is one of those rare counters where precision, seasonality, and emotion come together in perfect proportion. Chef Daisaku Murayama opened his restaurant in 2019 after years of training in both traditional Japanese cuisine and high-level sushi establishments. That dual foundation — kappo sensitivity combined with rigorous Edomae... More
Sushi Murayama in Ginza is one of those rare counters where precision, seasonality, and emotion come together in perfect proportion. Chef Daisaku Murayama opened his restaurant in 2019 after years of training in both traditional Japanese cuisine and high-level sushi establishments. That dual foundation — kappo sensitivity combined with rigorous Edomae discipline — defines his style. His omakase does not feel like a simple succession of pieces, but like a carefully composed narrative with rhythm, contrast, and intention.
The setting is intimate and focused, a counter where every movement matters. Murayama-san works with quiet concentration, his knife work clean and assured. His shari is warm, gently seasoned, and alive — never intrusive, always supportive. There is clarity in his flavors and confidence in restraint. Nothing feels decorative; everything has purpose.
What truly distinguishes him, however, is the strength of his otsumami. In my view, these dishes alone would qualify him for a top-tier kappo-kaiseki restaurant. They are not transitional bites before the sushi — they stand on their own as composed plates.
The abalone with liver sauce remains my perennial favorite. Succulent and soft, yet retaining just enough texture to preserve its integrity, it is paired with a deeply savory liver sauce that delivers layered umami while respecting the shellfish’s natural sweetness. It is rich but balanced, luxurious yet precise. Today’s meji maguro was vibrant and youthful, clean in flavor with beautiful structure. The taco was perfectly judged in firmness and chew, demonstrating technical control. Particularly memorable was the hirame topped with konowata (sea cucumber ovary) — a striking combination of saline intensity and delicate translucence. A chawanmushi with fukinoto brought early spring bitterness in the most elegant way, adding lift and seasonality.
The nigiri progression was equally compelling. Three distinct cuts of tuna plus a hand roll showed variation in fat content, texture, and depth, each piece clearly articulated. The kawahagi was especially strong today — subtly sweet, beautifully structured, and elevated by precise seasoning. The balance between neta and shari throughout the meal was exemplary.
This is sushi with intellect and soul. Murayama does not chase theatrics or excess. He delivers clarity, structure, and conviction — a meal that feels thoughtful, complete, and deeply satisfying. Less
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Sushi Mizukami (鮨 みずかみ) — Review
Lunch today was excellent — composed, focused, and quietly confident. The experience at Mizukami is rooted in a deep reverence for tradition, executed with clarity and purpose. The atmosphere is intimate: a single, understated sushi counter where service is attentive but unobtrusive, and every moment... More
Sushi Mizukami (鮨 みずかみ) — Review
Lunch today was excellent — composed, focused, and quietly confident. The experience at Mizukami is rooted in a deep reverence for tradition, executed with clarity and purpose. The atmosphere is intimate: a single, understated sushi counter where service is attentive but unobtrusive, and every moment feels devoted to the craft itself. The rice — warm, perfectly seasoned, and subtly aerated — was a foundation that elevated each piece, allowing the fish to speak with nuance and balance.
Behind the counter is Michinobu Mizukami, a chef whose discipline and aesthetic were shaped by over a decade of apprenticeship at the legendary Sukiyabashi Jiro. That lineage infuses Mizukami’s style — rigorous yet graceful — with a respect for classic Edomae technique without ever feeling rigid. His presence is calm and assured; he works with a quiet intensity that keeps the focus on the fish, the rice, and the moment. At Mizukami, traditions aren’t recycled — they’re lived, refined, and shared with clarity.
The nigiri progression today was superb: from a poised hirame and crystalline akami to luxurious ōtoro and an iwashi that stood out as one of the best I’ve ever experienced. Each piece honored the moment it deserved — precise in cut, tempered in temperature, and perfectly timed. This is sushi that feels rooted in history, yet alive in the present, guided by a chef who understands nuance, respect, and restraint. Less
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Kibun (そば処 紀文) at Kibun (そば処 紀文)
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Sushi Meino at Sushi Meino
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Excellent almost vegetarian meal, a collaboration between Villa Aida and Esquisse in Tokyo.
Great meal!
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Taihou (中華料理 大宝) at Taihou (中華料理 大宝)
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Pod zidom at Pod zidom
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What stood out immediately was the change in kiji (生地). The batter is now perceptibly thicker and noticeably crunchier than before, yet without tipping into heaviness. Rather than masking the ingredients, it adds an additional, deliberate layer of texture — a crisp outer shell that contrasts with the softness, juiciness, or creaminess within.... More
What stood out immediately was the change in kiji (生地). The batter is now perceptibly thicker and noticeably crunchier than before, yet without tipping into heaviness. Rather than masking the ingredients, it adds an additional, deliberate layer of texture — a crisp outer shell that contrasts with the softness, juiciness, or creaminess within. This adjustment brings more definition to each bite and gives the course a stronger rhythmic structure.
The ingredient selection remained seasonally precise: silky nasu, molten hamaguri, sweet white carrot of French lineage grown in Japan, and fragrant small fish wrapped in yuko leaf, where citrus aromatics gently lifted the palate. Fukinotō provided a clean, controlled bitterness, while the botan ebi was fried with absolute restraint, retaining a translucent core that showcased its natural sweetness. Throughout the meal, oil management was exemplary — light on the tongue, aromatic, and never intrusive.
What made the experience particularly rewarding was witnessing the continued development of the chef himself. Having just turned 30, the master already shows a confident hand and a clear sense of direction. This was not change for the sake of novelty, but refinement driven by intention and understanding.
Tempura Asanuma is maturing gracefully. The cooking has gained clarity and texture, while maintaining elegance and restraint. It is genuinely exciting to watch a young chef grow in real time — and even more exciting to eat his food as he does.
A truly great meal.
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- Gerhard Huber added a new meal Dinner at Sazenka at Sazenka
