Richard Bagnold

Another evening visit to this delightful pub and yet another evening in darkness as all my visits during the winter have been here! I’ve been here too many times to not be here during the summer and on this visit it was nice to see the upper private dining room that can booked if done in advance and for up to roughly 10 people. What I would love to do here as well at some stage is have breakfast which it will also provide as it is an Inn with rooms in the classic of senses which I also love about The Red Lion Freehouse. Glorious charcuterie, a great cep soup and believe it or not, a wonderful salad as a main were in the mix for this visit. The set menu was back for superb value in the evening of 3 courses for £24 at this standard of cooking and this is the other key strength of this eatery. Hospitality could not be more down to earth and welcoming at the same time and was also good to meet chef Dave Watts who was on point for this evening.

Food Grade: 76%

As with all set menus, there is a reason for their reasonability in that the cuts of meat will obviously be less expensive and as I discovered on this visit, it will obviously reduce the general size of the dish. Therefore, this was a useful reminder that with some set menus, the portion sizes will sometimes not be as big as you would expect at all. The sauce béarnaise here still remains among the very best I have come across in the country in perfect tarragon zing and viscosity and the ingredients alone did the talking for the starter of chicory, sweet mustard and blue cheese with apple – simple and effective.

My only niggle with this meal was that the chips actually appeared and tasted over done which was a surprise at this level. Not catastrophic but was surprising as a simple, clumsy error like this reduces the pleasure valve and can easily be avoided. However, the home made ketchup was a stroke of class and another first for me. So much so, that a blob of this in to the béarnaise seem to make a rather nice pseudo sauce choron for my OCD on these sauces.

The set chocolate dessert was not lacking in chocolate and was a pleasurable beast but the prize went to the selection of desserts which was a cracking idea for the a la carte (allows a tasting of the main desserts from the a la carte on one plate). This was another way in which this pub shows its good flexibilty above others in being able to accommodate this and essentially take two courses for £18 from the set and then do an a la carte dessert on top which is a very good way of doing things.

So, although this menu was a step down from the previous menu, it was certainly excellent value with some very good elements. I look forward to coming back in a warmer month so the outside can be seen and enjoyed with a full blown a la carte blast which will happen next time for their absolute hits.

The pork main was less of an explosion and I would have preferred to have had more of the veg to add a little more balance to the otherwise protein and carb-rich plate as well as giving a little more moisture to the pork however, I particularly liked the smoked quality of the brown butter mash with the pork. Although I accept it was the set menu option, the crackling was not very notable in comparison to others that have been enjoyed but otherwise the dish was pleasant enough on the palate.

The vanilla ice cream had run out giving rise to the replacement of the maple syrup and pecan ice cream and frankly I thought this was a far more gratifying anyway. Delightful maple notes and as it melted in to the crumble which was soft, juicy and had the perfect amount of sloppiness just under the crumble – it all came togther beautifully. Normally I would never do nuts in ice cream, but this not only got away with it, but I thought this dessert was another belter. The simple things when they are done like this don’t need much else!

A lovely meal and such good value as well. This is confirmed in my book (having had an initial, lovely experience years ago) as a quality venue for food (and the place in general). Not the last time I will dive in I am quite certain.

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I loved this place. Tucked away at the end of country lanes sits this alluring seaview hotel with its Michelin starred restaurant. The short version is that it was actually quite difficult to pick many holes with this visit in any way as I thought the setting was charming, the food as heartfelt with strong and completely amenable flavours (many of which stem from the chef’s childhood experiences), the décor cosy and although the service was not as polished as some other luxury hotels overall, the experience left me walking away with a skip and a jump which is exactly the whole point of these visits n’est-ce pas? Great stuff all round and I knew before the end of the meal I wanted to come back and enjoy another time and in the warmer months whenever can be done.

The opening snacks of cauliflower cheese pillows with chive were a nice bite-size duo to start with but I thought could have had a bit more moisture inside when the outer crisp was as thick as it was. However, the fish cake ball with parsley purée and lemon caviar and plum and apple chutney pork dougnut were completely sumptuous and showed the level of efforts that the restaurant was prepared to go to just on the openers.

The opening snacks of cauliflower cheese pillows with chive were a nice bite-size duo to start with but I thought could have had a bit more moisture inside when the outer crisp was as thick as it was. However, the fish cake ball with parsley purée and lemon caviar and plum and apple chutney pork dougnut were completely sumptuous and showed the level of efforts that the restaurant was prepared to go to just on the openers.

The amuse bouche of cod and potatoes that were blended together (brandade) within a shelfish broth was comforting and with a degree sweetness at the same time. The breads were equally lovely. These ranged from a clotted cream brioche (wonderfully rich) and sour dough with fig and and hazelnut and another with malt star – all of which were fluffy and pleasantly original.

The pork jowl starter with white onion purée, mushroom powder, cider reduction mixed with pork mousse and shallots was fab, no question. The pork was melt in mouth, the sweetness of cider reduction well balanced, the toastiness of the hazelnuts was there and the sharp of the rhubarb all came together beautifully – a lovely dish. The beef main itself was a tender as you can imagine all held together with a lovely garlic purée and easy on-the-mouth spinach. The fact that this had bone marrow which was toned down as well was all the merrier.

Pre-dessert of mango curd, coriander sorbet, mango tuile and diced mango was the perfect blend of warm & cold, savoury and sweet, crunch and smooth – actually in terms of these it was text book. Unbelieveably, I didn’t take a snap of this course but I put this down to wanting to devour it as quickly as I saw it. This then led the way to dessert itself which was taken straight from childhood memories in the summer garden of the head chef where this tart took its variation from. It was a gloriously rich tart made from our old Cornish friend, clotted cream with raisin purée, golden syrup gel and with a ginger beer sorbet on the top. Although the tart was less warm, eggy and soft than traditionally expected (as it had the texture literally of a slightly stiff clotted cream), it was an indeniably lovely flavour. It was the sort of dessert in fact where I was looking forward to each subsequent, clotted mouthful which was rinced and complimented perfectly with a lovely ginger sorbet.

In summary, there really wasn’t much not to like on this visit and it was especially pleasant to speak with and get the ground perspective from the head chef (Chris Eden). Even though it was dark on my visit and I couldn’t see a thing beyond the cliff, the outdoor decking, dining conservatory, menu itself and the feel of the restaurant makes me easily see how this would be a charming break away in almost any context. Something I hope to do with others another time.

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My second visit to James Sommerin and this time the restaurant was in posession of a shiny, new Michelin star as at the 2017 guide. I honestly can’t say I’m completely surprised at that based on the first visit as it was a serious contender and the headline for this visit is that it was definitely a noticeable notch upwards from the first visit in terms of the food but I was also amazed at how the service seemed to be so stretched and how long it took for things to come together. It was really good food but my advice is to not have any time constraints at all – during my meal I heard more than one table in my vicinity quietly commenting on how slowly things were progressing or not being informed enough which is genuinely the experience I had. However, if you can survive the wait, there are quality moments here and I believe the best way would simply pay a little extra for for the chef’s table to guarantee more timely service as diners there seem to have no issues.

Regrettably, I have to report that from the outset of this meal it was obvious that the service was pushed to the limit. I counted 5 staff on the floor to cover 38 people in a packed restaurant and might just be enough but didn’t seem to add up on this occasion. A key, combat indicator was noting staff had that ‘hoping not to be asked anything’ air about them – rushed with an avoidance of eye contact. After a 10 minute wait in the holding / bar area it was actually 36 mins until canapés arrived at the table and an hour after arrival that bread arrived. My request for a food menu 20 minutes in at the table was answered with there was only enough copies to being used by other tables so something was obviously not quite right as that is a bit of a surprise for a restaurant to not have enough to go around or have to wait to share – a genuine first for me.

Regrettably, I have to report that from the outset of this meal it was obvious that the service was pushed to the limit. I counted 5 staff on the floor to cover 38 people in a packed restaurant and might just be enough but didn’t seem to add up on this occasion. A key, combat indicator was noting staff had that ‘hoping not to be asked anything’ air about them – rushed with an avoidance of eye contact. After a 10 minute wait in the holding / bar area it was actually 36 mins until canapés arrived at the table and an hour after arrival that bread arrived. My request for a food menu 20 minutes in at the table was answered with there was only enough copies to being used by other tables so something was obviously not quite right as that is a bit of a surprise for a restaurant to not have enough to go around or have to wait to share – a genuine first for me.

Anyhoo, now that that gripe is out of the way I can focus on the food and on this occasion I opted for the chef’s selection after looking at the menu as this was to be signature dishes of the week, selected by the chef. Kicking off with the canapés, I thought these were excellent. The garlic espuma was outstandingly light and interesting with fennel seeds, the tapioca crisp texture was tougher / chewier than expecting but with strong flavour from the taramasalata and the cheese greyures were nice with truffle but I not in the same league as House of Tides or Restaurant Gordon Ramsay.

20 minutes later after finishing these, they were cleared. At 9pm the bread arrived (I arrived at 8pm for my 8pm table) and this came with salted seaweed and normal butter (both beautiful texture and fair in flavour). The focaccia bread was fine and nicely warm and I had high hopes for the onion bread but it turned out to be drier and tougher than the norm – I wasn’t expecting The Ledbury standard for the onion bread (pretty to beat anywhere in the world), but this version could have been more impressive.

Next came liquid pea ravioli, sage, ham and Parmesan foam. This was a lovely combination, done well and although first thought a little subtle, it was still darn nice. The butter poached lobster was good with a light and well spiced bisque and hints of fennel with crunch of granola & seeds and broccoli was overall v pleasant. Final fish of the evening was the brill with smoked potatoes and salsify which was a gorgeous dish – it was creamy, smokey, crispy and juicy. All round this was brilliant.

The beef was done beautifully with a lovely jus. The cheek was very nicely done (moist and seasoned well) and the parsnip purée and onion all made for a very good dish. This was highly enjoyable. And on to the sweets – the lemon curd, meringue, cherry and biscuit with lemon essence all over was a beautifully designed dish. Dry ice for the sake of it is a bit dangerous as it spells style over substance but this really did gain the lemon fragrance wafting over the entire table and me which was great. The Lemon tart sorbet itself was completely delightful. Poached pear, caramelised toffee ice cream dessert was similarly pleasant with beautiful flakes of pastry and the petit fours were delicate and all really excellent.

So all in all, I thought the food on this visit was in a considerably strong league. Apologies to have to keep going on about it but it really was marred by the unpolished service. It was nice to see the head chef personally bring out some of the dishes to the tables but the pace that was needed for this and the fact that one table had desserts placed at a table with empty savoury dishes still to be collected, combined with the hour wait for bread (not a stand alone course) made this the more notable point of the visit. A shame, as the food really was quite super and comfortably in the upper quadrant of 1 Michelin starred UK venues. If more menus were available, more staff were at hand, more genuine proactive desire from those on the floor to give what diners needed with more attentive urgency, this would take the restaurant to a super level.

As it stands, I feel only going to the chef’s table would be the only choice for a more slick meal. Total time for the meal was 3 hours, 45 mins by the time that the bill was paid which, for a 6 course menu is just too long. For 18 courses (which I have done in a similar timeframe) this is fine but not, I would suggest for 6. Although I received a discount for being a Luxury Restaurant Guide member (annual fee to get discounts at various places at various times), the menu price represented very good value for money for what was produced – some excellent dishes.

As time was an issue we had to go for the 3 course set menu at lunch priced at £32 pp. With canapés and an amuse bouche and the overall quality of the food, the first thing to say is that this was very good value. Canapés of sweetcorn panna cotta with bacon and mouth-bite of truffle was warmly receieved although I felt the sweetcorn panna cotta would have been better with a touch more seasoning. The amuse bouche of leek mousse and salmon was absolutely sumptuous – perfectly light and balanced with gently pickled beetroot and fried shoe-string potato for texture. The white and brown breads arrived beautifully warmed and the unsalted and seaweed butters were both served at the perfect temperature.

The pork belly and mackerel were the chosen starters, both of which were frankly superb. The creamed jus that accompanied the mackerel went perfectly and this was a lovely dish, as was the pork belly that was probably the best of the meal – powerful in flavour and carefully constructed. These were followed by the mains of shin of beef and the vegetarian option. As the menu does not give too much away, it was only apparent on serving that the vegetarian option was a lasagne with cream sauce and parmesan foam to accompany which was well done and left me wishing for more and the shin of beef with creamed mash I tried was also delightful. All the desserts were ordered and again, it was only obvious on serving that the passion fruit was a soufflé – thankfully, these I love. The soured dark cholocate was very much needed as the passion fruit soufflé was exceptionaly sweet. It was gratifying to have, particularly on a set menu, however I did feel it was in danger of being a little too sweet and could have possibly benefitted from being set a fraction more. This was not a show-stopper though and it was a very nice aspect to have at the end of the meal. The cheeses showed the very good value of the options here.

All in all, the skill shown on this basic set menu for lunch was clearly evident; there was no question of being of a very high technical standard. The service was very good throughout I felt that this meal demonstrated cooking that, in my opinion, was clearly operating within the 1 Michelin starred quadrant. My only regret is that all diners were driving and had to leave relatively early, so we could not drink or stretch to the other menus, however, this will be done on the next visit which I look forward to doing and will do in the next few months to see the whole show. A highly pleasing meal.

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A beautiful location no question and one of the gems of Southern England for special meals or highly comfortable get aways. Visually, the food was strong in its Michelin star family and notable efforts within the design, but a humble amount of joy experienced in the overall flavours on this visit. The setting is lovely; beyond the obvious classic oak interior, the restaurant feels as though the furniture has been moved in from the garden giving a light touch and the bars / lounges are grand indeed with a reassuringly abundance of log fires. Service was a little serious at times on the restaurant floor and I was surprised at a couple of basic slips. £47.50 per head for the set Sunday lunch with coffee and petit fours represented a reasonable equation but for the grandeur of the venue and capability of the kitchen I thought there could have been easily been an amuse bouche to make the meal even fairer. No fireworks, but a lovely place to visit for lunch nonetheless. A return in the Summer when the garden is in full bloom I feel a must at some stage.

I tried the salad of crown prince pumpkin with cow’s curd, cheese sablê, pumpkin seed and black truffle as I wanted to see their forte ability with such an expansive garden. The only problem is that regrettably my timing wasn’t brilliant being in the worst season for vegetable growth however, it’s always good to see how a renowned Michelin starred venue combats this. I would say that with the ingredients available this was done just about as good as anyone could do with plump pumkin chunks, creamy cheese curd and truffle shavings to jazz things up and held together with the garnish. The seeds worked well for texture and basically it wasn’t a full scale opera but not a bad thing at the same time.

I tried the salad of crown prince pumpkin with cow’s curd, cheese sablê, pumpkin seed and black truffle as I wanted to see their forte ability with such an expansive garden. The only problem is that regrettably my timing wasn’t brilliant being in the worst season for vegetable growth however, it’s always good to see how a renowned Michelin starred venue combats this. I would say that with the ingredients available this was done just about as good as anyone could do with plump pumkin chunks, creamy cheese curd and truffle shavings to jazz things up and held together with the garnish. The seeds worked well for texture and basically it wasn’t a full scale opera but not a bad thing at the same time.

Breads were warmed and presented very well and again, although plain in the majority, they were done well with good springiness all round. Also tried was the starter of foie gras parfait with verjus, glazed walnut, orange and chicory. This was somehow sent to the table without the brioche which had been forgotten and caused a wait in the proceedings. Although these things happen and is not the end of the world, especially if both starters are cold, it was a surprise for this basic error to occur (at a Michelin starred restaurant) however, all was rectified with one baked and brought to the table as quickly as possible. The parfait itself was set hard and quite tough to handle and although I liked the crunchy exterior, the flavour of the parfait just wasn’t to the same standard as that experienced at Dinner, The Cross or La Trompette for example.

Mains of lamb and selections of Newhaven fish fillets were more enjoyble. The lamb had depth of flavour, both parts being utterly tender with a rather lovely potato terrine and supporting sauce / puree elements. The selection of fish in bouillabaisse sauce was nicely done, the fish pieces being succulent and seared to good effect. No negatives really, but similarly, no high fives caused at the same time.

Desserts however, were a very welcome notch upwards. The mango crème brûlée was beautfully judged, with just the right sweetness and eggy consistency. This had a superb ginger beer sorbet and was one of the nicest sorbets had. Equally enjoyable was the white chocolate mousse with variations of apple, treacle and cinnamon crumb – these flavours were superb altogether and was the definition of harmony. Tea and peitit fours were enjoyed in one of the lounges opposite the fire place with a seemingly long wait for the bill.

So all in all a surprising mix of results but thankfully with some good moments and all being presented in a refined way. I suppose I was simply hoping for a bit more ‘X’ factor. The venue will serve as a wonderful haven for anyone needing to conduct a regain or gain points with their other half but for the more advanced diners there were easily areas to raise. Very glad to have done it though and a tasting menu in the warmer months is the only way to be sure.

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(Editor’s note: review written at the time of establishment holding 1 Michelin star) A personable team were on hand on my evening meal and my first visit to JSW. The oak beam and white table cloth interior was an attractive design to the eye and the a la carte had on this occasion showed a reasonable price tag for the meal at £55 for the 3 courses but was the perfect advert for why lunch is so much the better option sometimes as exactly the same menu was £45 at lunch so, if it is just the food you are interested in, that clearly is the better option. Wonderful snacks were followed by uncomplicated dishes that, although were well done, did not cause explosions. A very nice place for the surrounding hamlet, which would be good for work or family occasions a like.

At the start of the meal was a haddock dip, slightly more runny than a fish roe dip with some toasted thinly sliced bread options of date whirl, white baguette, chorizo bread, Rosemary & Parmesan. This was a delicious paste to have as a snack and to dip frankly anythig in to to enjoy and was not too salty which was a god send from how they can very often be.

At the start of the meal was a haddock dip, slightly more runny than a fish roe dip with some toasted thinly sliced bread options of date whirl, white baguette, chorizo bread, Rosemary & Parmesan. This was a delicious paste to have as a snack and to dip frankly anythig in to to enjoy and was not too salty which was a god send from how they can very often be.

The salmon was succulent and combined with the the watercress gel, watercress pearls and salad was all great together. Everything on this starter was fresh and pleasant; the only aspect that I found too strong was the salted lemon purée. More pickled cucumber would have given enough acid here I feel and combated the sour more sufficiently.

The main comprised of a very good fillet, with carrot purée that was one of the best components on the plate and beef dripping sauce. The latter was nice but hardly any there to get the real return from and I did feel the beef cheek needed more salt as I found this to be quite flat in flavour. Dessert was overall fine but I found the banana flavour not very powerful in the parfait. However, the had a chocolate lovely texture and the cinnamon doughnut was never in danger to not please if done well and this one was. Altogether the combinations simmered at pleasant with a fun addition of popping candy at the end.

The family run environment and lovely decor made this a very British affair and appeared to be perfect as the local village trump card for dining and romantic occasions on a Fri or Sat as its forte. The service was humble and family led which is always a pleasure to see. Sadly, the meal on its own appeared to be at the lower end of the Michelin starred spectrum but still, enjoyable in parts nonetheless.

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Sunday lunch here was befitting for the venue, in that the style of cooking was simple and generally pleasing but regrettably was only that at its maximum. The haddock with mustard sauce on poached egg was a lovely starter and the roast beef main wonderfly tender with pitch-perfect vegetables but a rather hard Yorkshire pudding and a gravy that seemed a little flat. Dessert of eggy brioche with banana sorbet didn’t quite work for me as I couldn’t taste the banana in the sorbet very much, the eggy bread was a tad too plain and the only element that lifted things was the pineapple.

I could not help think of other Michelin starred venues that had given more return on a set lunch menu and the fact that the dining room is so small that it was evident when other diners were actively listening to other diners (something I cannot stand) and such is the tiny amount of space available for the few tables, that those in were generally forced to have whispering conversations. In fact, this did actually make for an uncomfortable atmosphere on a couple of occasions.

I could not help think of other Michelin starred venues that had given more return on a set lunch menu and the fact that the dining room is so small that it was evident when other diners were actively listening to other diners (something I cannot stand) and such is the tiny amount of space available for the few tables, that those in were generally forced to have whispering conversations. In fact, this did actually make for an uncomfortable atmosphere on a couple of occasions.

However, I am not a stranger to this and I can understand that in close confines, someone dining on their own may look a little strange… understandable that some will not know the rationale behind doing so rests with writing for a website. The last time I was in confines such as this was at Harry’s Place just outside Grantham where there are 3 tables however, you go there in this expectation.

Clearly the cooking was considered at the Neptune Inn and was run with warmth but for me, the food was lacking on this visit compared with other Michelin starred venues and I would simply recommend going with the expectation of a quiet dining occasion.

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Moreston Hall struck me as a very pleasant place and a lot more so in the flesh compared with prior scans on the web. The tasting meny option only for a Saturday night was had by all of the diners, most of whom were staying and this was the part I wasn’t expecting, i.e. all tables were served the same course at all times – a fair whack for a kitchen but makes sense ultimately if the one menu is to be had by all. The dishes here were consistently pleasing and the obvious efforts that had gone in to it all made for a job well done. Notable on this visit were the excquisite canapés, delicacy of the portions throughout and the way in which the head chef and others served some dishes at the tables themselves as a nice touch. Worth another visit I feel to see in daylight and explore more of the food. A charming venue well worth a visit, particularly if you have a better half to recover from an argument with.

Once seated, the canapés arrived to munch on which I noticed everyone else doing the same in the elegant looking conservatory with pre-dinner drinks. Gorgeous steak tartare on olive crisp with supporting emulsion was very welcome as was the perfectly light and salty crisp cone with salmon and cream cheese. And if these weren’t lovely enough, the cone itself was sticking out of bed of puffed rice with jasmin and powdered sugar – this final element was a total joy and I really haven’t had such an immensly enjoyable set of canapés like these in a long time which made me wonder whether I was in a secret gem where the bar was ludicoursly high and seemingly unknown…

Once seated, the canapés arrived to munch on which I noticed everyone else doing the same in the elegant looking conservatory with pre-dinner drinks. Gorgeous steak tartare on olive crisp with supporting emulsion was very welcome as was the perfectly light and salty crisp cone with salmon and cream cheese. And if these weren’t lovely enough, the cone itself was sticking out of bed of puffed rice with jasmin and powdered sugar – this final element was a total joy and I really haven’t had such an immensly enjoyable set of canapés like these in a long time which made me wonder whether I was in a secret gem where the bar was ludicoursly high and seemingly unknown…

On to the amuse bouche and the cauliflower veloute was wonderfully light and creamy with well judged acid coming from the rasins and enough texture from the fried capers with lovely coriander oil on the top. My quail substitute dish was gratefully received and with the simple, fresh grapes showed a bold move to not rely on trickery but the natural ingredients do their work which I thought they did reasonably enough. The curried jus, celeriac purée and grape was simple and reminder of coronation chicken (one of my favourite dishes of all time) and this was perfectly pleasant.

Butternut squash agnolotti was next and this was subtle with its browned butter and elegant sauce, but where it created mouth explosions was when combined with the Parmesan crisp. This was the only glitch I felt as the result was to have some spoonfuls that were delicate and ok (without the parmeson crisp) and then spoonfuls that were superb with, therefore more the cheese in crunchy, powerful dosage would have increased the wattage here I thought, but a nicely done dish.

The Monkfish was juicy and tender and was evident to see the care gone in to this dish with lime, vanilla, liquorice spice & mint mix, BBQ carrots, carrot purée, puffed rice and raspberry jus. Ultimately these produced a sweet and juicy combination which, although was not stratospheric flavour territory for me, they went well together. Staff were very accommodating for finally settling on the Rioja of the by the glass options to go with the main of wagyu featherblade and wagyu brisket with with salsify purée, marrow breadcrumbs. It is hard to beat the depths and butteryness that wagyu can be served in Asia, but was very nice to have on this menu. I found the wagyu firmer than others I have had but it was never going to be in danger of not pleasing and came with a fabulous mushroom ketchup – the likes of which I have not had since Dinner by Heston Blumenthal at The Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Knightsbridge.

Blood orange cleansing and bergamot mousse was lovely, soft and sweet and thankfully not too sickly sweet as bergamot can be sometimes and the final egg custard was a very welcome finish – simple, traditional and well executed – a safe and pleasing finish. Actually, this sums up the experience quite nicely. Even though the Michelin Guide places this as modern cuisine, I liked the more traditional elements and and overall, I knew I was in very safe hands here ultimately causing a very content smile on leaving. As long as the establishment can keep an eye on not having to rush any table that can’t keep up with the other tables (as all are served the same course throughout a la a banquet), this is a lovely option by the coast and I look forward to returning in the daylight when the planets next align.

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Set in a farm complex, you will need to keep your eyes peeled for the correct turning off the High Street which essenially appears to be a driveway for a house….which it was back in the 17th Century! Still within the family hands, this was a very pleasant change from the norm and Michelin starred food was served with dutiful hospitality in a very homely setting, for the simple reason that it used to be one. The restaurant is split on the top floors of what appear to be converted attics but with high ceilings and the set menu at £28 per person represented very good value for money with some wonderful home made bread and a couple of very good meal moments as well. Although not the strongest set lunch had, it was a very fair equation all round and a nice marker in the sand if you are near.

Nibbles in the downstairs lounge made me think that we were going to be in danger of needing to move if anyone else showed up as it is a very small area but I’m fairly sure this restaurant staggers its diners and it added to the charm of the venue. Simple olives were juicy enough and once upstairs and in the hands of their fabulous bread, all was well in the world again. The onion and tyhme bread was as fluffy as you could hope for and a beautifully judged onion essence within made this a lovely bread to have. Its supporting malt barley and stout bread was a perfectly acceptable neighbour to accompany.

Nibbles in the downstairs lounge made me think that we were going to be in danger of needing to move if anyone else showed up as it is a very small area but I’m fairly sure this restaurant staggers its diners and it added to the charm of the venue. Simple olives were juicy enough and once upstairs and in the hands of their fabulous bread, all was well in the world again. The onion and tyhme bread was as fluffy as you could hope for and a beautifully judged onion essence within made this a lovely bread to have. Its supporting malt barley and stout bread was a perfectly acceptable neighbour to accompany.

The set menu lunch was opted for and showed extremely good value for money on the surface. Better still was the actual result in some cases – the ravioli of salt cod with a curry sauce was an immediate hit and the goats cheese mousse was equally well done. Both of these starters would trump many a la carte starters in the past and were very nicely done. Less successful unfortunately was the main which, although was presented well, the piglet was quite flat in flavour with only the supporting jus and sweetcorn giving the interest that it needed. Good to have and try but I simply didn’t get as much pleasure from this.

Dessert on the other hand restored the balance a little bit more with the honeycomb mousse being just what the doctor ordered, displayed in a fun way and the lime curd dessert proving to be simple quality and a reason to be happy with the day. The lunch itself was £28 per person for the set menu and I would say this was perfectly reasonable. Where some Michelin starred venues go to even more stretch by providing canapés or snacks or an amuse bouche or pre-dessert even within set menus of the same, general price, these prove to be even more wonderful value (see Alimentum, L’Ortolan, L’Autre Pied and Texture as examples).

Where John’s House is unique is its use of the entire farm complex to utilise as a cafe, grocery of freshly picked vegetables and any number of home made pickles, jams and chutneys which all looked frankly wonderful or even the (petrol head) mueum across the courtyard. So to my surprise it was much more than a quirky restaurant the more it is explored and well worth a drop in if you have the kids in tow and are passing. The restaurant itself is small, so drop ins to there will not be as easy.

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My first time to this recently refurbished restaurant and the immediate impression shows there has been considerable investment at the space and decor. The tasting menu showed careful cooking and there were some good taste moments indeed. The service was provided by a pleasant team that appeared well bonded and on the ball throughout the service. The icing on the cake was provided by chatting with the Executive chef, Adam Stokes in the wonderful, new kitchen with counter bar chef’s table which is a great touch as it means you don’t have to have 6 people banding together to get the experience – I have only seen this at one other Michelin starred venue (Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs) and is an especially nice touch. The food here was commanding and a very good first impression on first visit. Well worth visiting and especially for any evening occasion.

A healthy selection of nibbles pr-empted this meal. First up was one of the best macaroons I’ve had made with with goat’s cheese – this was utterly dissolvable in the mouth with powerful goats cheese dose but without too much of the sour undertone that goat dairy can give. The steak tartare with egg yolk droplets canape was delightful but I found the crab snack slightly drowned the crispyness of the crisp as its only flaw – fresh as a daisy it was though! The Liquid chicken ball was my first dose of Michelin starred baby food(!) as this was all the elements of a Sunday roast chicken in one warm, liquid hit and was genuinely pleasant – a pleasingly gooey and salty deep fried bite.

A healthy selection of nibbles pr-empted this meal. First up was one of the best macaroons I’ve had made with with goat’s cheese – this was utterly dissolvable in the mouth with powerful goats cheese dose but without too much of the sour undertone that goat dairy can give. The steak tartare with egg yolk droplets canape was delightful but I found the crab snack slightly drowned the crispyness of the crisp as its only flaw – fresh as a daisy it was though! The Liquid chicken ball was my first dose of Michelin starred baby food(!) as this was all the elements of a Sunday roast chicken in one warm, liquid hit and was genuinely pleasant – a pleasingly gooey and salty deep fried bite.

The efforts on the semi salted butter and whipped pork fat were easily seen and both with perfect texture, the smokey and delightful alternative of the pork fat spread for the sour dough was a muncheable dish in itself. And THIS, ladies and gentlemen is one of the reasons that going to these sorts of venues is so much of what I enjoy as the sheer splendour of what these accoladed venues can actually do above the norm (not just fancy but really clear thought for overall originality and flavours).

The sweetbreads had a succuclent quality inside, with lovely smokiness, but were quite fatty and salty and I felt could have done with a bit more moisture. The tartare was an optional extra and was very dutifully presented with English mustard, chive oil, mushroom crisp and disc and caramioilsed onions. It was quite fatty but very interesting to be warmed / roasted yet raw and with deep flavour. Although not my best steak tartare, it was a nice surprise to have the element of English mustard as its kick but without being too ‘up the nose’ fatal as English mustard can be.

Lamb came next in its most succulent form and was juicy, crispy and sweet at the same time – gorgeously done. This came with a very young but satisfying red from Patrick Sullivan (Australia) at the same time. Straight in to the pre-dessert came the honey pannacotta with whiskey cream. I didn’t get that much of the honey pannacotta as the overiding flavour was the whiskey in the foam but it was a nice treat nonetheless. This was followed by aerated chocolate dessert with blood orange, caramel and salted milk sorbet. This was quite a heavy and cloggy dessert in the main (still lovely flavour) so the sorbet gave the moisture and freshness it needed and was just light enough when all together. The beetroot macaroon with elderflower that came made me first think they had made a mistake and brought a canape to the wrong table but actually this was sweetened beetroot with eldeflower cream and was absolutely meant as a petit four and was followed by some additional, wonderful mixed chocolates (dark chocolate, pepper & popping candy and and a pitch-prefect salted caramel and peanut petit fours as highlights).

In summary this was minamilist in design and absolute quality in overall effect. The interior is ultra modern in design but the cosyness was thankfully not compromised with its buzzing atmosphere; all of this was held together by a watchful, pleasant and attentive staff.

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This was an outstanding meal and was without doubt the best restaurant experience from doing all four Michelin starred restaurants in Edinburgh. Everything clicked on every level from the off – the decor, the atmosphere, the hospitality and above all, the food. Based on my brief visit I place this is the top venue for a top occasion in Edinburgh and would recommend it without hesitation if you are in the city and want the very best for the best occasion.

This was already a highlight from the moment the first canapé of opening beetroot macaroon with horseradish cream was served. The wafer-like texture of the macaroon with carefully pitched beetroot flavour with creamy softness of the horseraddish sauce was simply a winner and actually reminded me of that served at The Fat Duck. This was followed by a cep veloute which was sweetened with soy sauce and was superb. Breads opted for were the mini baguettes which although weren’t anything to sing about were done well in being not too overloaded with flour and having the perfect stretch.

This was already a highlight from the moment the first canapé of opening beetroot macaroon with horseradish cream was served. The wafer-like texture of the macaroon with carefully pitched beetroot flavour with creamy softness of the horseraddish sauce was simply a winner and actually reminded me of that served at The Fat Duck. This was followed by a cep veloute which was sweetened with soy sauce and was superb. Breads opted for were the mini baguettes which although weren’t anything to sing about were done well in being not too overloaded with flour and having the perfect stretch.

The duck with red cabbage had such a soft texture with a lovely and sweet chutney to accompany. The veal tartare was luxurious and good to see its brioche croutons, foie gras, truffle, veal and delicately pickled sweet potato as an original take. However, although it was nicely designed, I felt the other elements slightly overshadowed the actual veal which was difficult to trace.

The ementhal soufflé was, in no finer words, the asbolute dog’s nuts! This was frankly even nicer than the signature version at Le Gavroche as this was even lighter but with the real essence of cheese in a punchy way. I enjoyed Michel Roux’s version very much, but as his sits on top of a bed of double cream, you do feel somewhat that doing a marathon before a Gavroche visit is in order.

The warm salmon with warmed butter foam, unripened grape jus with tapioca and seewed on top was nothing short of happiness on a plate. With the parsnip purée, this produced a delightfully, salmony, smokey, luxurious thing in which the salmon just FELL apart. The beef with cheese, bone marrow and shiraz from South Africa (a cinsault-grenache blend in its last vintage) was a lovely, original and medium bodied wine to go with the beef – not too many tannins either which is exactly what I was looking for. I must say as well that the jus here was excusite and in its simplicity, there really wasn’t much to say against this dish in anyway.

Both chocolate and lemon desserts were utterly superb. I genuinely couldn’t get enough of these and my endorphin levels were going through the roof by this stage at the whole show just didn’t seem to falter. The lemon especially was not only wonderfully fressh and citric but was delighted that the honeycomb was nicely done as well as is one of my favourite things – it almost slightly gooey in the centre and was sweet with no bitter after taste as well. The lemon grass sorbet was frankly a stroke of genius and it rounded off the meal to a very high standard.

This for me is an example of where everything is right in the world. Although there are more visually striking dishes and breads available in other 1 and 2 star venues, I would rather have this type of cooking on any occasion over elaborate trickery as the flavours were simply that good. Martin Wishart’s food comfortably enters the 2 Michelin starred field for me irrespecive of AA Rosettes and I do hope this becomes a reality one day. In terms of the purpose of eating out, when it has this sort of impact on your mouth and senses and overall happiness, is there any other purpse to fulfil?

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