Richard Bagnold

Newly opened as of 2016, Aquavit is a huge, open and swish Scandanavian restaurant in the adjoining space between Haymarket and its parallel neighbour, Regent Street. The fortés of Aquavit for me were some simple things done well, an affordable set menu and pleasantly designed interior…as well as the fun of having to do shots at brunch as it’s practically Scandanavian law to do. If you are lovers of Swedish meatballs, I think you will struggle to find a better version elsewhere and armed with my Norweigan mother on this lovely occasion, it is confirmed that the breads have been done authentically well as has most of the menu, hailing mainly from Sweden with elements from Norway and Denmark. Bar a couple of apsects on the menu that could have been tightened (see full review for details), the only slight shame this visit revealed was that all the staff seemed to be from anywhere in Europe other than Scandanavia which slightly diluted the Scandavian experience desired. However, it was all a pleasant meal, well delivered and the Manager whom I met was completely charming. Very much recommended to do the set menu to get a good feel for it and then you can make your own decision from there.

First up, there was a real thumbs up for the bread. It’s always the same – if enough care is put in to the basics there is an instant feel good factor. The selection included sour dough, rye with nuts (very squidgy) flat bread (knökkebröd) with carroway seeds (aniseed family) and pumpkin. All these proved to be sound in that the flat bread was not too thick and the rye bread not too dense combined with good flavours.

First up, there was a real thumbs up for the bread. It’s always the same – if enough care is put in to the basics there is an instant feel good factor. The selection included sour dough, rye with nuts (very squidgy) flat bread (knökkebröd) with carroway seeds (aniseed family) and pumpkin. All these proved to be sound in that the flat bread was not too thick and the rye bread not too dense combined with good flavours.

For a restaurant stemming from its 2 Michelin starred roots I was surprised that the staff were not explaining the dishes for the table and wished to drop off deliveries to the table as per a cafe, but then again this maybe the intention in keeping it casual. The grandeur of the venue combined with its mother restaurant in New York being a two Michelin starred venue makes this a little odd tonot wish to go that little bit further, but is a small observation. All parties had the 3 course set menu and it was very good to see that these were taken from the a la carte and actually I thought that some were the better options regardless(!) hence opting for this menu.

What was fun was being able to have a selection of smörgåsbord offerings on this set menu and a vast array of different flavoured aquavits to choose from along with half a dozen different beers to choose from to wash these down with. Each course had a different 25ml shot of Aquavit to choose from including Aquavit with cumin, lemon, honey, sherry vinegar, elderflower, anise, fennel, dill, raisins, barley, cinnamon, thyme, the list goes on – you name it, there was probably an Aquavit it was in. And thankfully these weren’t as ludicrously heavy as I was expecting from many a drunken Christmas Eve. At 1130 on a Sunday morning, this was frankly good news that these Aquavits were more fresh than hit you with an alcholic sledge hammer in style. So all in all, another nice touch on the drinky side.

The starters were slighty mixed in that the black pudding was very nicely done (soft, gentle and without too much grease) but the gravlax didn’t appear to have much of the ‘Grav’ (pressed element of sugar, salt and dill) in to the ‘Lax’ (salmon) itself but appeared to be more salmon with dill sprinkled on top. The dill sauce was also a little lacking in dill punch for our palates which was a shame as this is one of the mother-ship combinations, but it simmered at the doable level as a starter and was nicely fresh. For the mackerel lover, all elements worked well together but more of an explanation on those elements and guidance from the staff as to how much should be mixed, if at all etc and this is where more interaction from the staff is not just a status bonus, but a simple practicality.

What wasn’t such a small issue unfortunately was the piece of bone in the cod that I had but otehrwise the dill emulsion was utterly gorgeous to go with the light and well done cod itself. The veal was done beautifully, falling away from swipes of the knife and I have to say these were pretty much the finest Swedish meatballs and meatball sauce I have had on record. My childhood is littered with being spoilt with a vast array of wonderful sauces from my Mother who still can knock these out of the park, including Swedish meatball sauce but am sorry to say that this was even better….but only just(!). Desserts were simple and satisfyingly well done whilst rosehip may not be to everyone’s palate (it can be quite bitter) it did not seem to be very vibrant here as a dessert – more kick or sweetness would have elevated this.

Overall it was a very worthwhile experience and is retained in the bag for other occasions and even if Scandanvaian food is something you find too much in surplus of these days, or just not your bag, the value for money set menu here was very good. As I am half Norwegian, I have a natural soft spot for the cuisine and world in itself but that has not made me generate positive discrimination for the culinary verdict on this visit – as a summary, I found the food comforting, fun, clean and as if I was in caring hands, but ones that had just missed the mark on one or two aspects; not enough though to make me not come back as I left with a smile and a desire to come back another time.

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Casamia is a swish-looking restaurant serving modern dishes in a newly furbished design (having made a moved from Westbury in early 2017). As at time of writing it is one of two Michelin starred restaurants in Bristol and I very much enjoyed the location, look and feel of this restaurant with the tables being afforded ample space between each other and views of the open kitchen. Such a move (to less covers than before) may explain the restaurant taking away its more affordable set menus for lunch and now sticking with tasting menus only which, from a business point of view I understand. The overall effect of the dishes was that I was impressed and there were some very good moments and this is definitely a place to save for a more notable or special occasion. A mid-strong 1 Michelin starred restaurant in my travels and you will definitely be in very safe and competent cooking hands here.

After a realatively serious introduction at the table by the front of house, the dishes started to arrive in good time and I have to say with a definitely good pace. The first offering was an extremely light pastry shell, housing 36 day aged parmesan in the form of a mousse and with grated parmesan on top. This was frankly knock out and a very strong start.

After a realatively serious introduction at the table by the front of house, the dishes started to arrive in good time and I have to say with a definitely good pace. The first offering was an extremely light pastry shell, housing 36 day aged parmesan in the form of a mousse and with grated parmesan on top. This was frankly knock out and a very strong start.

Next came beautifully soft seaweed meringue which was wonderfully sweet which and handy that it was, to balance the sea-salty prawn emulsion made from carabineros (Spanish) shrimp. The smoked green bean leaf with horseradish had a deep, earthiness of vegetable hispi with a nice crunch of horseradish components and gel inside. Next up came the spring salad with sweet potato, whipped goats curd, kale vinegarette, and this had lovely textures, perfectly cooked vegetables and elegantly sweet and smooth goats curd – a great dish.

Next up, the pickled fennel, beetroot risotto with yoghurt sorbet I found warming with lovely textures and again, fresh, vibrant – altogether as risotto’s go very pleasurable. The trout cooked at the table was imaginative and raised the stakes of presentation and morevover had absolutely delicious crab bisque to go with the glorious trout. The trout roe was a little hard to detect as was dominated by the dashi gel but the play of sweet and sharp was nicely pitched through pleasant textures again. Perfectly good sour dough was presented with butter that was absolutely treated with the respect it deserves.

Lemon sole was cured and grilled with grapes with leek & aerated sabayon. The sabayon was quite bitter, but sweetness was provided from the grapes, on top of the beautifully cooked fish. English sparkling wine from Sussex was pleasant to go with this but personally I would have opted for a less dry wine and something a little more sweet.

The duck part one with lime pickled shallot, duck broth, quail egg yolk had a really deep broth with fragrant flavours throughout and lovely richness to add to the dish to beef up its substance. This was a corker frankly. Duck part two came with chia seeds, pickled green mustard as a superb purèe with pak choi and orange. The latter I found came through quite strongly but the duck was soft and beautiful. It was interesting to have different mouthfuls every time seemingly on this one which was a little confusing at first to see which ‘type’ of moputhful combination was the optimum. When it was possible to have all elements together, it was juicy, sweet and aromatic. A very modern combo to the old school duck à l’Orange.

Tarragon custard, passion fruit granita and gel, tarragon meringue and flakes from nitro preparation was the first of the sweets and this was a great combination. The tarragon dealt with the sweet nicely, it was interesting, light and fun with a slight anaseedy quality. The ginger, rose and Juniper sugar shards on rhubarb sorbet was well judged and with interesting textures within the gel, purée and vanilla cream. The designer of this dish wasn’t afraid of overarching bitters here, but lovely smooth textures and craftmanship was in the background here all the way.

Bizarrely the mushroom based petit four worked, but the aftertaste veered slightly too far as a savoury rather than sweet-savoury for me. The lemon Turkish delight was squidgy and almost gel like and possibly too liquidy here as it started to run in the fingers which implied not being set enough. Even if this was the intention, it made it a little messy to eat with the fingers and was the only bit of the meal I felt that was technically off. However, these are small sensations in an otherwise very good meal.

Overall, this is extremely refined and careful cooking. Personally, I would rather pay more and have a better show like this than lots of people being crammed in to a restaurant to make up the receipts, so although this is definitely one of the more expensive Michelin starred meals out there and one perhaps that very much would put a lot of people off, I believe it to have the quality output it is wishing for.

I was looked very well throughout and it was very good of the head chef, Jim Day, to allow a few moments to me in his kitchen as well. My nip-pick points of this experience overall is that the food veered a little more on the bitter side for my palate and the serioussness of the atmoshpere could be softened and lightened by key floor staff more – I believe some can afford now to take themselves a little less seriously. Other than that, I thought this was accomplished cooking in a swanky and lovely looking restaurant and most certainly the food was in the upper echelon of its Michelin starred peers.

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The Checkers certainly has its charm. As a former 1600s coaching inn, the décor inside has a rustic homliness about it, enhanced by being family run. The simple, French dishes were pleasant enough, but I was surprised on the overall struggle it seemed to be for the team to deliver the one, tasting menu for the restaurant that still had some tables free on the evening I visited. The white chocolate & passion fruit cigar dessert was genuinely the food highlight, and I believe this dish is displayed proudly on The Checkers website, but does make me wonder how long it has been on the menu and therefore how often other dishes on the menu changes. Perhaps this is a long-standing signature dish….and with due reason. Overall, the meal I had was good produce but at the same time, the summary is that I have had a fair few others without a Michelin star that would definitely rival and in some cases overtake this one for flair and flavours (Tredwell’s, Chiltern Firehouse and The Typing Room to site immediate examples that have never had a star). But, run by pleasant staff nonetheless, who appeared a lot happier when service was complete.

The proceedings opened with spoonful canapés in the bar including octopus with a pleasant soy dressing which was very good. This was followd by an impressive selection of breads at the table: parmesan, raisin & caraway (Persian cumin, like fennel), rosemary, walnut, brown bread and white bread. I tried a small piece of all and atually they all had very good bounce and freshness.

The proceedings opened with spoonful canapés in the bar including octopus with a pleasant soy dressing which was very good. This was followd by an impressive selection of breads at the table: parmesan, raisin & caraway (Persian cumin, like fennel), rosemary, walnut, brown bread and white bread. I tried a small piece of all and atually they all had very good bounce and freshness.

Next up was the parsley velouté, duck confit and garlic cappuccino which was a nice, light opener but just somehow fell a little flat for me. The sea trout with pea purèe and a bacon and mint dressing was similarly a good combination and well done but just no explosions for me….rather like having high hopes and waiting for a crescendo that sadly didn’t happen. These were washed away by a pink grapefruit with champagne foam which I’m afraid to say had no impact at all.

Next up was the chicken tourte with a wonderfully viscous, shiny and sticky madeira jus. This brought an immediate lift to my mood, with a lovely rich, depth to the the sauce complimenting the chicken very well, albeit with a little bit too much of a peppery kick for me. The spinach purée was nicely done but the one aspect that fell down for me was the pastry which came across too well done – never brilliant to have bits of hard pastry fly everywhere when you have to put muscle power in to hacking each piece away, resulting in the knife clanging on the plate.

Then came the white chocolate and passion fruit mousse inside a crisp ‘cigar’ shell which was extremely good. The delicate lightness of the shell gave way to a beautfully soft and smooth passion fruit mousse, surrounded by very supportive bits of fruit of mango, kiwi and mint. This was light, refreshing and rich at the same time and was a beautiful dessert. Cheese was included in the no-choice tasting menu for dinner and these included brie, roquefort, gruyere and blue with apple and pear. A simple and traditional way to provide some well chosen cheeses.

The petit fours were also worth mentioning as these were actually great – the highlights being salted caramel and dark chocolate and mint (which seemed to have spice within). Therefore, desserts definitely appeared to be the forte of this restaurant.

So, all in all, a no-frills, classic French menu, served by a pleasant team, but one which appeared to have their comfort levels stretched. I say this as it was pretty evident that the staff for the most part appeared to want to drop food off and give the bare minumum explanation of the dish as quickly as possible as if it was getting in the way of their next task. Fair enough when in a hurry, but I don’t believe diners will willingly want to delay staff longer than necessary (if they do, they are morons) and sometimes it is very easy to miss what someone says in a hurry and confirmation may definitely be needed – being made to feel comfortable to do this as a diner is simply what sets apart the ok from the great services and restaurants. Fair value for money here definitely, but I’ll be interested to see what the lunch menu would like and in a warmer season.

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A very small restaurant in North Wales run by a husband and wife team only, this was a lovely place to visit as I felt immediately in very caring hands. Sosban got its got its Michelin star in 2016 and is now booked up for the rest of 2017 according to their Twitter feed, meaning fingers crossed of cancellations for the rest of 2017 should you wish to visit(!). Bethan on the front of house provided a very calm and warm hospitality and I especially was taken at how good the team were together, overhearing Bethan quietly thanking her husband each time the dishes were ready. Moreover, there were hardly any moments of the food that I didn’t enjoy. It was a consistent show here and if you are lucky enough to get a table here, my advice would be to savour the experience.

A spoon holding moss with bacon and egg started the meal. This was a crunchy, ball of light bacon flavour with slight richness from the egg and was a very good start. Braised lamb cheek coated in breadcrumbs and lava mayonnaise was next and showed perfectly succulent lamb. The crackling was quite tough but all in all there was enough moisture from the lamb and the lava mayonnaise to deal with this and was ultimately very good.

A spoon holding moss with bacon and egg started the meal. This was a crunchy, ball of light bacon flavour with slight richness from the egg and was a very good start. Braised lamb cheek coated in breadcrumbs and lava mayonnaise was next and showed perfectly succulent lamb. The crackling was quite tough but all in all there was enough moisture from the lamb and the lava mayonnaise to deal with this and was ultimately very good.

Salted leek, mushroom and toasted cereal came next awhich held utterly creamy mushroom and the toasted cereal gave a really warm, nuttiness – I couldn’t taste the leaks but they added a good texture, being so well done, and basically this was a definite good moment. Then came kale with parmesan, caesar dressing and chicken skin bits – this was never in danger owing to the guarantee of the flavours but importantly, this was pulled off superbly and was utterly melt in the mouth umami sensations. A brilliantly recommended Portuguese red called Smart Dog was enjoyed and was a superb addition to the savoury openers.

The soda bread arrived warmed and although soda is not my favourite bread, it had a very good crunch it with some very good butter which was whipped and beautifully spreadable. Next came risotto that was made with no rice as was derived from celeriac. This was beautifully creamy with enough diced pieces within to give the impression of a risotto with elements of Brantley Apple and droplets of coffee on top. There was an unusual kick from the coffee but strangely worked to break up the onslaught of fatty luxury from the celeriac.

The duck breast, duck and parsnip crumbs, yoghurt, charlotte leaves and liquorice sponge was warm, comforting and with sweet tingles in the mix as well. This was an interesting mix, great when all in and needed the parsnip as it was otherwise in danger of lacking in moisture. I found myself running out of gravy quickly here as the duck was definitely a little dry and needed perhaps more.

And then the mother loads of interludes: cod skin with banana purée, frosted okra leaves (like spinach) & nut shavings; this wasa a superb combination and gorgeous gooey crunch. The cod on a base of yeast and cauliflower had superb potato puffs and Ox heart shavings on top. The cod itself was unbelievably soft and juicy, with lovely salt from the Ox shavings & sweet from onions rings. The puffs added a wonderful textural crunch and the key thing here was that the cod was the star of the show.

The first dessert had puffed rice, almonds on base, rhubarb (from Yorkshire) and a sugar ball with gold powder and custard inside. I mean this was really, clucking good! It was also slightly savoury and bitter at the same time but overall the soothing sweet cream was playful and decadent – a great dish. The second dessert of lemon ice cream with dark chocolate and olive was superb. It was the perfect marriage of sweet, sharp and element of salt within the creaminess of the lemon balanced exteremely well.

I wasn’t sure about the salted caramel with gruyere cheese as a petit four and the initial ‘hit’ was strange but actually it was not as offensive as the title sugests and turned out to be a gentle offering. The most difficult thing to get to grips however was the piece itself as it was practically glued to the plate, but the taste itself was well done.

I walked away from Sosban with some lasting impressions: the wonderfully personalised service and exceptionally courteous and warm front of house by Bethan Stevens; a winning amount of simplicity and as a two-person restaurant services have to be split in to two sessions, one at 19:15 and the next at 20:15 so don’t be late! Diners should expect to have no choice on the menu as it is the one tasting menu being done but when it done to this degree, you won’t have much to worry about (inform of allergies / intolerances prior to coming).

I loved the Japanese charcoal as a natural neutraliser in the water (don’t try this with normal charcoal as this kind comes from a specific Japanese wood that is treated and made using super-high temperatures) and the feel of the restaurant was modern but without being over the top. There was such simple control of the food being served up here and the overall effect it had on myself was that it was utterly effective and enjoyable at the same time. If you can get in, it will be a worthy investment of time.

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Opened in early 17, Anne-Sophie Pic has ventured from her 3 Michelin starred restaurant of Maison Pic to lead the main kitchen at the newly opened Four Seasons hotel in Trinity Gardens (just opposite The Tower of London). A grand hotel indeed (formerly an old governmental accounting building) with a very impressive rotunda for drinks and casual bites, the main restaurant has been modernised in design as far as the legacy pillars and infrastructure will allow. The cooking here was immediately at 1 Michelin star level as my opening impression with potential to be a 2 Michelin star contender in the future after it has had time to settle in, but my meal showed some basic errors which were easily avoidable. I would suggest doing a double-take look at the prices of the cocktails and drinks in the rotunda before making any assumed orders. A slightly corporate feel to the place in general, that won’t matter if you are after good food which, is something you are going to get here and I will be keeping an eye on this one in the future.

I say it’s worth keeping an eye on the drinks here as we opted to go for a kir royale and bucksfizz at the bar and simply put that on the table; we were a little surprised to see the glasses of the house champagne being £17.50 per glass and a shot (teaspoon) of the creme de cassis being £8 in addition. On entering the restaurant it was obvious the efforts to make guests as comfortable as possible in the confines of the legacy space provided by the listed building.

I say it’s worth keeping an eye on the drinks here as we opted to go for a kir royale and bucksfizz at the bar and simply put that on the table; we were a little surprised to see the glasses of the house champagne being £17.50 per glass and a shot (teaspoon) of the creme de cassis being £8 in addition. On entering the restaurant it was obvious the efforts to make guests as comfortable as possible in the confines of the legacy space provided by the listed building.

The artichoke leaves were exceedingly light and a lovely touch, reminding me of the ones had at Geranium but as these were so dissolvably light, I would have thought more of them would have been better or simply make slightly thicker to give more return. The comsome tea was very welcome and the breads showed a good mix with interesting coffee butter but the latter was hard and this was a basic error as simply makes spreading a nightmare – so easily avoided. The cauliflower cheese foam was utterly delightful as the main amuse bouche; completely light with strong cheese notes and touch of heat from the chilli – a lovely start.

The Pasta parcels filled with Brillat Savarin cheese, seasonal wild mushrooms, tonka bean and Voatsiperifery pepper was a very good dish. The pyramid pasta parcels were cleverly and nicely done and the mushroom itself at the base being pronouncedwell enough at the same time. I opted for the white asparagus that were given in small portion sizes with a very nice curried hollondaise that was mousse-like and therefore lighter than the norm. I asked for extra and still didn’t think it turned out to be enough so if you are a sauce / hollondaise lover I would manage your expecations here accordingly.

Both the monkfish and the pumpkin sauce to go with were very fresh and I thought the green tea emulsion to go with the Mackerel was marvellous. This was a pretty hefty portion as an a la carte main as it came with a potato salad with mackerel as well but then again, at £32 for the main alone I think this was reasonable in portion size. The chicken main was gorgeously soft with the skin done well in its supporting role and the Dexter beef very tender, just a little lacking in punch though for me.

The desserts were very good and the signature Millefueille standing out – although you can’t see from the photo, inside were layers of fine pastry with jasmine jelly are concealled within the cube of royal icing of eggwhite and sugar. This was clever in design, light with lemon and citric notes coming through from the sweet pepper foam at the same time. Green tea seems to be a very important part of Anne-Sophie’s preferences and I was glad to taste this in a softened way within the ice cream and not a lump of bitter ice as I have had in the past. Petit fours including a mini cheese cake and marshmallow infused with chartruse were a fair finish.

So all in all, a well done collection of dishes but with some points that were noticeable at the same time. Ultra picky points include napkins not being refolded when away from the table (not the end of the world as an experience I assure(!), but when you see this as standard in higher echelon restaurants it is very noticeable when not done), the butter was hard, there was a longer than normal wait for the food menus (especially as there were only a few tables on this Saturday afternoon taken) and we were overcharged roughly £70. Stupidly I didn’t check the bill at the end of the meal and only noticed this afterwards, but the management were very good about it and addressed all on the Monday morning refunding where necessary.

A grand building, fine interior with some finely crafted dishes that were indeed pleasant and clearly has some more to offer. I would not be suprised in the slightest if this picks up a Michelin star in the 2018 guide later this year (Nov 17) and am sure time will bring more stability to the overall show in due course.

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I have been meaning to get in to Theo Randall’s for many moons as a loved and reveared force in the world of Italian cooking. The restaurant is in the lower levels of The Intercontinental Hotel, just off Hyde Park as it has been since 2006. Instant impressions were that the bar was quite small and it is very much a hotel restaurant by design which unfortunately also has hard acoustics in general. Service was very pleasant and the plus of the food having a simple, no nonsense style with some good moments but sadly also carried a couple of minor disappointments. A pleasure to do though and I was glad to have finally got round to Mr Randall’s eastblishement not least for his lamb but also the company for the occasion.

It’s very hard to out class the focaccia made at The Sportsman and Noble Rot (by the same mastermind of Steve Harris), but the focaccia done here was fine enough and the menu itself showing several options to choose from to personalise your tasting menu which I thought was a nice touch. The white Devon crab with Florence fennel, dandelion and Sardinian Bottarga (cured fish roe) was a superb start. It was clean, fresh and uncomplicated and with the addition of lemon to drizzle at choice I thought this reflected no nonsense basics done very well. Although there is nothing wrong with having a quartered lemon on the side, presentationally I have seen this done with more imagination and effort.

It’s very hard to out class the focaccia made at The Sportsman and Noble Rot (by the same mastermind of Steve Harris), but the focaccia done here was fine enough and the menu itself showing several options to choose from to personalise your tasting menu which I thought was a nice touch. The white Devon crab with Florence fennel, dandelion and Sardinian Bottarga (cured fish roe) was a superb start. It was clean, fresh and uncomplicated and with the addition of lemon to drizzle at choice I thought this reflected no nonsense basics done very well. Although there is nothing wrong with having a quartered lemon on the side, presentationally I have seen this done with more imagination and effort.

The mixed green ravioli with Swiss chard and butter sauce with sage I thought was extremely good. Again, this was just simply done and with maximum return. The shame being that I could have done with bit more of this, but that’s only an indication of my ever-increasing gut size(!). One dish that was not on the tasting menu but I really wanted to see anyway was the cheese soufflé as it’s a personal favourite of mine and having seen it various guises (The Punch Bowl pub, Martin Wishart (Edinburgh) and of course Le Gavroche). Unfortunatley, this one at Theo Randell’s as by far in last place and I actually thought should not have been sent to the table in the hardened and overcooked state it was. Sadly this was not good to eat and a definite dissapointment when one compares just how etherially light and cheesy this could have been at places such as Martin Wishart.

Thankfully faith was restored with the lamb which I thought was absolutely smashing. This was served with roasted globe and Jerusalem artichokes, salsify, fennel, carrots, beetroots, turnips and an utterly superb salsa d’erbe which I had not had before. The latter was a pleasant change from the usual mint sauce and the lamb itself was tender to the mouth as well. This was accompanied and washed down by an agreeable Sizzano which was decanted for the table.

The lemon tart was simple in its offering but with such lovely freshness of lemon and creamyness of the tart, there really wasn’t much astray here and the spiced pear chutney to go with the cheese selection was another notably good touch. Italian petit fours are not my absolute favourite as I prefer soft, decadent sweets as opposed to the traditional, hard, pistachio biscotti – that’s purely personal preference though.

Accepting that the £70 for five courses is a London price, I still walked away with the feeling that it was a little steep for what it was and as much as a fan of simplicity as I am, the great moments here felt shortlived. Good to do all the same and I will bank the pasta and lemon tart from coming here.

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A very agreeable visit on a Sunday for brunch. Beautiful, wooden panelling inside with an open kitchen and completely warm service made this a very picturesque place to have a meal overlooking the lake in North Chicago. Actually the three course set brunch menu was more akin to a three course set menu lunch lunch which I found pleasant but with its strength being the modern design of the food and in some cases holding too many components on the plates and less potentially being more here. Lower moments were the dry amuse bouche cake (hot and less filling nibbles, even olives I think would have been better here), the soured beer syrup to go with the pork sausage and the veloute that was spiced but seemed flat to my palate. However, the good moments for me were the shrimp endive for its freshness and the dessert of chai ice cream, the latter stretching the imagination more.

Overall, it was very good value for money at $35 for the set menu, in a very nice spot of Chicago with a charm in the front of house hospitality.

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The vantage point of this restaurant offers some eye-catching architectural vistas from a very high ceiling and grand-feeling room which I would normally associate with business lunches. Thankfully, it also serves as the breakfast area and caters for hotel guests and visitors wanting a good breakfast alike. I was drawn to here as it has 2 Michelin stars as a restaurant (at time of writing) and therefore what better way to start the day than with 2 Michelin starred eggs benedict. In short, there are only so many ways this is going to taste and ultimately I was little dissapointed with the hollondaise which did not come across as freshly as I would expect, but the black salt than melted in to the top was a good, decorative touch serving its purpose to the eggs well. Personally, I would have preferred the eggs to be more orange and rich but they certainly did not offend in their form.

The service was customarily warm and welcoming however, the only shame was a 15 min wait for my change after payment giving an impression that the establishment may have been hoping for the diner to get bored and go, thereby leaving an additional tip. It could of course, have been a language barrier issue, but after pressing, the correct change was given.

The service was customarily warm and welcoming however, the only shame was a 15 min wait for my change after payment giving an impression that the establishment may have been hoping for the diner to get bored and go, thereby leaving an additional tip. It could of course, have been a language barrier issue, but after pressing, the correct change was given.

I’m aware that the grade attached to this visit may not be truly refelctive of the restaurant as only one dish at breakfast was done and is obviously a lot different to the potential of a full blown tasting menu. However, it was enough to see the format and the feel of the restaurant experience and clearly the better way to visit would be the full works in the evening via a romatic occasion. I anticipate this is where the forte of the restaurant is – drinks on the terrace overlooking Chicago’s building followed by a high ceiling, low light meal.

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This was frankly on another level and well worth the 7 hours on the train from Kansas to Chicago in order to have the quality of this meal. This is my 19th 3 Michelin starred restaurant to try and based on these so far, this was comfortably in the top quadrant of these based on the purity of some old favourite flavours and the joy of the new at the same time. Things that shouldn’t have been possible were made possible and the fun experienced in the food was backed up and steered by utterly superb service. I shan’t be forgetting this meal in any hurry and I would say there are only a few of these sorts of places in the world. Overall bill worked out as £252.71 all in for food, wine, tax and tip which, in my view, for this kind of experience was a total no brainer.

First up, the menu was handed in the form of a crossword puzzle with the guest needing to try and find the dishes in the jumble. Frankly I lost interest in this as I was getting more concerned about getting the ‘stuff’, but this was a playful way to start the proceedings. Each dish had a name and so I will outline these as I found out their names at the end of the meal.

First up, the menu was handed in the form of a crossword puzzle with the guest needing to try and find the dishes in the jumble. Frankly I lost interest in this as I was getting more concerned about getting the ‘stuff’, but this was a playful way to start the proceedings. Each dish had a name and so I will outline these as I found out their names at the end of the meal.

The amuse bouche came in the form of a hand-carved ice bowl and was called ‘Ice’. This was char roe, pineapple sorbet and passion fruit cream with citric gel on the side which you can probably just make out on the right side of the photo. This was a strong play of salt and sweet with clear thought to texture as well and was ultimately very refreshing. The glass of Montrachet was not as creamy as most I’ve had but it was young and was a very clear cut mouth wash for the sweet langoustine and salty roe.

Next came ‘Crunch’ which was rouille & nori. The black cylinder of nori (Japanese seaweed) was tough but sweet and this was filled with a wonderful gooey interior and spicy concentration of the puree’d rouille (sauce of olive oil, breadcrumbs, garlic, saffron and cayenne pepper). This was acoompanied by ‘Paper’ which was a crisp made out of langoustine with bouillabaisse sauce and olive oil. When the bouillabaisse was poured over the langoustine it turned the langoustine crisp in to perfectly made noodles whcih were sweet and refreshing. The bouillabaisse was perhaps the sweetest tomato based consomé I think I’ve ever had and the dish was clever and beautiful at the same time.

Next came a starter trio: ‘Contrast’ which was cider, orange & maple within a chestnut iced soup; ‘España’ was served with sherry vinegar foam, pear, paprika & jamón iberico and finally ‘Swirl’ was yuzu with apple and lemon balm inside. There were such delicate spices with the sweets of sherry vinegar foam and I particulalry loved the chestnut soup served with its chestnut ‘snow’ with jelly spices which was great for the senses. Perhaps this was the most wonderful savoury ice cream I’ve had. The only aspect I didn’t like particulalry was the Swirl, as I found the lemon balm much too sharp and acidic at the same time, but the texture of the yuzu was perfect.

The next dish was the ‘Thai Coconut’ which was brainchilded following a recent trip of the Alinea head chef to Phuket. The actual ingredients included pompano (a subdued form of mackerel), rambutan (sweet, lychee like fruit) and kuzu (vine like vegetable). Overall this was a dish that will remain in the memory banks as a knock out as it was the creamiest and lightest Thai fish curry one can think of, heightened by the Thai plants surrounding the bowl, which increased the senses as the nitrogen crystals allowed the aroma of the lemon grass scent to maximise the freshness of the dish. Essentially this was the most exquisite Thai green curry I have ever had, with Yuzu meringue and cucumber spheres that made it especially wonderful. It was spicier than expected but I forgot this would be utterly authentic at the same time (most western versions of classic Asian dishes are toned down in spice to cater for western Palates) and was frankly wonderful.

Next up was ‘Yellow’ which was pork belly pieces with curried banana. This was the most tender pork on record with spiced banana cream served with a creamy, soft saki. It’s rare to have genuinely new food experiences and this was one such moment and as crazy as it sounds, it was one of the finest combinations with the finest balances I think I have had on record. ‘Glass’ was essentially a mushroom dish with blueberry shards, lapsing souchong and the highly sought after Japanese maitake mushroom. This was vibrant and as clean as they come. ‘Branch’ was a biscuit made with the resin from mastic trees and was a pleasing snack to acoompany.

Next up was essentially a savoury orio called ‘Toast’ made out of gruyère cheese as the cream filling, a gel on top made out of black truffle and a pumpernickel biscuit base. Nothing really to not love about this, with the fragrant, creamy, pleasantness of this dish coming through in spades. The base had an utterly incredible crunch with the soft flavours coming through from each part.

Then came the main ‘Smoke’ of wagyu bone marrow meringue to be torched at the table which was toned to perfection as a creamy spicy soft snack. This was prior to the beef short rib itself which was delectably soft and possibly the most immaculate beef had as well. However, I found the aromats of the sauce difficult to enjoy here as the gel and jus of bitter cocoa and cassis were too agressive and strong to fully enjoy for me. That said, it was still an utterly unique dish. The red that accompanied was a light and a fair pairing with the beef itself.

The pre-dessert of ‘Rock’ looked exactly as if it was made with sweet potato, chocolate and miso. This was sweet, crunchy, salty, gooey, pleasant and nutty all at same time and I loved the perfectly judged chocolate inside the rock shell.

‘Nostalgia’ came in the form of bubbegum ice cream and cake with an edible banana sorbet and sherry shard on top which genuinely was a reminder of childhood done very well and with brilliantly powerful but not sharp banana sorbet. Then came a balloon to the table which was connected to a banana and and apple string. The balloon itself was bouncy sugar which I was instructed to give the balloon a kiss – the result was the sugar stuck to my lips and as I inhaled I realised that the balloon contained helium producing an obviouly fun moment. Although this was superb craftsmanship I actually found the sugar balloon itself a little too sticky as it pretty much clamped my jaws shut and was so so with flavour, but I loved the edible string and ultimately it was definitely one of the most imaginative desserts and dishes I have ever had. Finally a praline with edible gold was a lovely, simple bite to finish on.

All in all this was one of the finest meals I have had and the $274 (approx £220 at time of writing) for the food alone (incl tax and service) is something I would pay in my sleep for a meal of this nature. Some sublime dishes here with a couple of aspects I did not fully agree with, but overall, the quality of this venue was among the best you can get on this planet.

https://major-foodie.com/alinea-chicago/
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As I was travelling nearby at lunchtime, this was the perfect stop off to jump in to try and is virtually equadistant to Swindon, Tidworth, Andover and Upavon if you happen to have work stations near these locations. It is a refurbished Inn and caters very well for notable lunches and dinners alike for the surrounding villages and areas but the chances are you will need either a generous friend to drive or an advance-booked taxi, owing to its slightly out of the way location. Once there, I found this to be a very hospitable venue with warm service and with some perfectly sastisfying food; it’s forté was perhaps not over-complicating and I enjoyed elements of its presentation. A very safe bet location and well worth dropping by if near.

Little nibbles at the start of the meal came in the form of olives in a mini jar and these were as one would expect, nice and fresh albeit simplistic. More interestingly was what appeared to be a ration pack of spam or dried corned beef – something I am very used to seeing and otherwise known as Menu ‘B'(!) when in the field. Thankfully this was not the usual splat of dried out meat that has the added bonus of giving 100% guarantee of constipation; this was a piece of Tuna Nicoise with black olives which was fresh and with pleasantly warmed sour bread but was just a little awkward to eat in the shape of the tin, fun as it was to see.

Little nibbles at the start of the meal came in the form of olives in a mini jar and these were as one would expect, nice and fresh albeit simplistic. More interestingly was what appeared to be a ration pack of spam or dried corned beef – something I am very used to seeing and otherwise known as Menu ‘B'(!) when in the field. Thankfully this was not the usual splat of dried out meat that has the added bonus of giving 100% guarantee of constipation; this was a piece of Tuna Nicoise with black olives which was fresh and with pleasantly warmed sour bread but was just a little awkward to eat in the shape of the tin, fun as it was to see.

Next up as the main was red mullet with carrot purée, pea purée and sea salt peniwort leaves, the latter being bitter sea leaves which balanced the sweet and absolutely lovely, fresh fish. I also loved the way the carrot puree was slightly curried to make more interesting and yet all the surrounding components didn’t overshadow the straight forward beauty of the fish. This was also actually more pleasant to eat than the red mullet had in 3 Michelin starred Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester as the former wasn’t trying to be too modern and forgetting the final flavour.

Quail was next and this was served with a wonderfully soft and creamy celeriac purée and plenty of quail which was cracking to see with a rich, game jus. Some very good doses of just what you want here but personally I prefer the skin on game like this to be to be crunchier than how it inevitably has to be when pot roasted, but the dish in itself was a pleasant combination nonetheless.

This was followed by what I can only guess is a chef’s favourite and long-standing design of the ‘egg and soldier’. It was obviously not that and was a smooth meringe as the egg white with mango curd inside to replicate the yolk. I was worried at first that the mango yolk was going to be too sickly sweet, but thankfully this was toned down sufficiently. Petit fours of rum cake coffee cream, chocolate mouse praline, fudge, clementine parfait and white chocolate and passion fruit mousse with pink macaroon. All these were of relative satisfaction but the alcoholic cherries were far too drenched making the sour tones overpower the mousse.

All in all, this was a pleasant meal and in a homely setting that had simple and neat presentation.

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