Richard Bagnold

This is the first solo venture from Michael Caines having made his significant move away from Gidleigh Park where he held 2 Michelin stars for 16 years. Therefore, there has been much anticipation over the first Michelin verdict of Lympstone Manor and after the wait, it has been awarded a Michelin star on its first year of operation. My first visit here revealed a beautifully restored building; all rooms named after birds of the region and hand painted wall paper with a number of dining rooms all tastefully and elegantly designed. Whilst the service was mixed, the food was generally consistent with pre-lunch bar snacks a particular highlight. The absolute gems of Michael Caines’ work appear to be confined to the absolute top (Signature) tasting menu priced at the premium level with a reasonable set menu lunch (4 courses for £48 on offer) appearing on show and taste to sit amicably in the Michelin starred bracket from my point of view.

Lympstone Manor was originally a farm house in the 18th Century and evolved in to a Georgian Mansion before being used as venue for weddings and other occasions. Now, Grade II listed and utterly refurbished it has the air of grandeur, softened by modern, good taste. Part of the Relais and Chateaux group, it has had significant care taken in the design of the interior and the setting over the estuary looking like it will be very attractive in the summer particularly.

Lympstone Manor was originally a farm house in the 18th Century and evolved in to a Georgian Mansion before being used as venue for weddings and other occasions. Now, Grade II listed and utterly refurbished it has the air of grandeur, softened by modern, good taste. Part of the Relais and Chateaux group, it has had significant care taken in the design of the interior and the setting over the estuary looking like it will be very attractive in the summer particularly.

Sitting in the bar, sipping on Michael Caines’ own brand of Rosé sparkling wine, the bar snacks were among some of the most memorable had in quite a while – a herb emulsion, with parmesan and candied walnuts was just outstanding. I could have eaten 10 of these and been supernova happy. Along with this was an admirable beetroot mousse with smoked mushroom and apple which was also another winner. I think this is actually my favourite moment of all when dining out, the pre-meal excitement, everyone feeling excited and all suited and booted to go; it’s safe to say that with all factors mentioned, in the company I was with, caused utter happiness.

On the meal itself and this was part of a seasonal promotion of four courses for £48 pp which was an attractive offer in itself. The proceedings were kicked off with a foie gras mousseline with Madeira gel and which went down in about three seconds of complete satisfaction. To start, I opted for the wild mushroom risotto with spinach, girolles and mushroom velouté which was a comforting and nicely chosen Autumnal dish and I enjoyed the seasoning and texture provided by the parmesan shards that came with it.

Thankfully, I managed to sample all of the mains, starting with my own slow-cooked partridge, quince, chicory and Gewürztraminer sauce. Although I found my partridge to be a little too raw on one of the legs (it was basically uncooked on one side), the combination of the quince with the partridge worked well and the aromatic white wine sauce held it well together. The gnocchi main held a pleasant parmesan feel running through it, complimented by a notable herb purée and good quality mushrooms (the gnocchi itself was supple enough but not too soggy at the same time as it often can be). And perhaps the main with the biggest punch of flavour was the paprika cod. Paprika is such a vibrant spice and can endanger a dish when not treated properly, but all at the table agreed that this was done very nicely indeed with the right amount of kick but without being overbearing. The cod itself was as succulent as they come and essentially was a well put together dish.

All three desserts were also tried starting with the apple mousse with apple sorbet and vanilla foam. I couldn’t really detect much of the vanilla in the foam and as nice as this is stylistically, I do believe it is better to either have more pronounced if it is to be in the form of a foam or simply another textural way to get more of the actual component. That said, the apple mousse itself was enjoyable as was the chocolate tart with lime sorbet. The sorbet in the latter helped to deal with the onslaught of the richness of the chocolate which packed its own cocoa punch. The soufflé was as one would expect in a Michelin starred venue and was nice to have an original foundation flavour of the Armagnac within this and its supporting ice cream; not my most memorable soufflé, but certainly nothing bad at the same time.

Petit fours came in the form of passion fruit macaroons, mini rasberry gateauxs and mandarin jelly petit fours – all of these were simple and well done with the latter jellies being beautifully done. Coffee was served via Nespresso capsules which was somewhat of a disappointment as the £8 charge for these makes that overpriced for me. The only factor that can be taken in to consideration is the fact that this includes the petit fours which offsets a little, but a useful reminder to keep eyes open on the prices of aspects of the meal which may seem socially automated. All in the meal was just shy of £80 per person which, for all things delivered including pre-lunch bubbles and wine at the table, was actually very reasonable. It will be interesting to see what happens to the menu prices this year (2018) now that the establishment has learnt its Michelin star.

Overall, I was certainly pleased with the results of this visit and actually relieved they were this way at the same time, knowing how much effort and investment had gone in to this venture. The food had some good moments, most notably in the supplements rather than the actual courses, leading me to view this appropriately placed in the Michelin starred family but perhaps in the mid range of its one star peers. On looking at the signature menu, my instinct is that Michael Caines has retained some of his knock out dishes purely for that menu and is enjoying a more relaxed feel for his lower stakes menus. Nothing wrong with that as that’s the best of both worlds really, depending on your occasion and bank account health. A very nice place to visit as well and I would like to come back and see the place in the hotter and more blossoming part of the year, where different ingredients will be played with as well to see how these fair on the a la carte or tasting menu.

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Another star for Bristol as of the 2018 Michelin guide. With Paco Tapas as the newest Michelin starred entry for Bristol, this now brings the tally for the town to three Michelin starred venues, the other two being Wilks and Casamia. The latter is actually only a few metres away from Paco Tapas and the owners of the refined Casamia (Sanchez Brothers) also own this latest and more relaxed Spanish venture. The menu options are casual and done in a pleasing way and I would happily sit in Paco Tapas grazing on their wonderful Jamon croquettes with a beer all day. You can easily have a decent meal here for under £30, but as the options (especially the snacks) are attractive, you could also easily tott up much more of a bill if you got easily carried away. All details of the dishes I had are at the expansion button, but I was very pleased to have been able to pop in and will definitely be doing so again whenever next back in Brizzle.

I adore croquettes and having scoured the Basque region in Spain for their variants in their pintxos and I have to say that these ones at Paco Tapas had lovely flavour, were carefully done and the light breadcrumb coating was broken easily for the soft and gooey centre that made for extremely happy eating. In fact, as they were that good, I had to have another portion of 2 croquettes – an absolute no brainer when they are £3.25 for the pair of beauties that they are.

I adore croquettes and having scoured the Basque region in Spain for their variants in their pintxos and I have to say that these ones at Paco Tapas had lovely flavour, were carefully done and the light breadcrumb coating was broken easily for the soft and gooey centre that made for extremely happy eating. In fact, as they were that good, I had to have another portion of 2 croquettes – an absolute no brainer when they are £3.25 for the pair of beauties that they are.

I had mixed feelings on the tortilla Espanola though. It was made with duck eggs which was nice to have a more luxurious feel and the confit onion was nicely done, but the bleeding of the egg in the centre was a surprise. I don’t think there are any specific rules for this not exist, but the runnyness seemed to be out of place compared with the tortillas Espanolas I experienced in San Sebastian.

The Manchengo cheese and honey had to be done for only £5.50 and the honey combination was satisfying. Quail coated in paprika, stuffed with pork and dates had a lovely char grilled and earthy exterior and was beautifully sweet inside. The meat was succulent, juicy and of good sock. The key here was the well done seasoning & crisp skin which made for a very pleasant experience.

Dessert came in the form in chocolate mousse with olive oil. I am seeing this combination more and more these days as an alternative pairing to salted caramel or salt with chocolate. It’s an interesting mix and can be done but I felt the quantity of oil on this serving was too much and became the main component which can almost be overbearing. If I have again, I will ask the oil to be toned down, but the biscuits had a very nice crunch on the outside.

All in all, this was a lovely and relaxed place to visit and I have no doubt the other options will be very good to try. Those of a larger and less manoeuvrable disposition may struggle a little with the high rise and small stools, but I love the easy going concept, just as per the tapas venues in Spain. I would recommend going in just for a beer and nibbles if there are any spaces and think it very unlikely you won’t be attempted to try something else, such is the easiness of tapas.

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Jamavar is London’s newest Indian restaurant to have received a Michelin star and did so in the 2018 guide. Headed by Executive chef Rohit Ghai, this is the first Jamavar to exist outside of India, although the Exec chef has formerly served as head chef within three other Michelin starred Indian kitchens in London underneath their Executive chefs (Gymkhana, Trishna and Benares). This may help to explain why the style of cooking was quite similar in Jamavar. Although similar, I found the cuisine a slight notch up from those mentioned and generally at the upper bracket of Michelin starred Indian restaurants (all of which are in London and I have visited). Perhaps I was affected by the hype a little, but ultimately, there were moments of sparkles as opposed to the whole ensemble exuding wow moments. It is certainly worth a visit if you enjoy food spanning North and South regions of India. Vegetarians will be customarily well catered for here and the lunch / pre-theatre menus are particularly good value with £32 for 4 courses being the highest value for money option.

The restaurant has two main dining areas – one on the ground floor as you enter and the other downstairs on the basement level, the latter being a touch more cosy and dimly-light. The tasting menus at the time of visit were £70 for the meat and £65 for the vegetarian options and as mentioned, the real bargains are at lunch or pre-theatre. I’ve noticed that virtually all of the Indian Michelin starred restaurants seem to have this format which is a very useful option.

The restaurant has two main dining areas – one on the ground floor as you enter and the other downstairs on the basement level, the latter being a touch more cosy and dimly-light. The tasting menus at the time of visit were £70 for the meat and £65 for the vegetarian options and as mentioned, the real bargains are at lunch or pre-theatre. I’ve noticed that virtually all of the Indian Michelin starred restaurants seem to have this format which is a very useful option.

In terms of the meat dishes, my feast began with the tellicherry pepper and garlic soft shell crab with damson chutney and garlic chips which was satisfying as the trick here is to hide the fact the fact that the soft shell crab has a pint of oil still probably lurking within it from the deep fat fry and this did not feel like that. The hint of garlic was also a nice touch. The malai stone bass tikka with mace, green cardamom and avocado chutney was simple and of good quality however, the tulsi chicken tikka with sweet basil, pickled radish and raita was slightly better, based on the very succulent meat with supporting tikka and soothing raita.

The Adraki lamb chops with royal cumin, crushed onion, fennel and ginger were fine – no explosions, just good lamb with good spices. However, the normality ceased when the old Delhi butter chicken came. This particular chicken is corn-fed, from Suffolk and was char-grilled and pulled with fresh tomato and fenugreek. The richness and creaminess of this butter chicken cannot be emphasised enough and I knew before even choosing any other dish on the menu that I was going to have this – and by the Power of Greyskull, I’m very glad I did! It’s a very hard battle, the butter chicken at Jamavar versus the butter chicken at Darbaar, but on balance, I think Jamavar pips it to the post for this dish. Following this, the chilli chikki lava chocolate fondant with cinnamon kulfi and caramelised pecans was another clear success and everyone at the table was united in this being a cracking dessert in any restaurant – interesting, sumptuous and balanced very well by the cinnamon kulfi which was A-grade.

Regrettably I didn’t manage to taste all of the vegetarian options but where I did I can comment. These dishes started with a fair, potato tikka, honey yoghurt, white radish and tamarind mint chutney, and an enjoyable podi idli (savoury mini cakes) with curry leaf, black pepper and aubergine sambhar (lentil based gravy). I was actually quite jealous of the dal chawl aur achaar (crispy lentil and rice dumplings), served with green chutney and heritage carrot pickle as this was very appealing as was the kasundi paneer tikka with mint and raw papaya chutney.

The vegetarian main was aubergine Chettinad (mixed spices) with stuffed baby eggplant, stone fungus and pakora (fried mini-balls of rice and chickpea in batter). This I did try and there was a very pleasant and deep flavour to the spiced aubergine which was very good. The supporting sides that came with both mains were dunghar dal (a spicier dahl made from yellow lentils as opposed to earthier beans) which was considerably heated by the chilli and the gobhi aloo (potato with cauliflower). Both were reasonable enough, but the dahl was unnecessarily hot for everyone at the table and took the pleasure away from having it. However, both mains were the prized moments of the meal. Dessert on the vegetarian side came in the form of rhubarb falooda (made from mixing rose syrup, vermicelli, sweet basil seeds, and pieces of jelly with milk), with saffron and rabri (milk) kulfi. Whilst there was nothing particularly bad about the latter, it was also nothing to sing about at the same time.

The drinks menu was another £50 per head for those that went for it, which is reasonable enough, but as ever, when dining in larger numbers, just as the menu tally tops up, so too does the overall service charge naturally. Service was extremely hospitable throughout the meal albeit a bit uncertain at times and the environment was perfectly pleasurable. I look back on the meal, probably guilty of having raised expectations based on its award and anecdotal applaud, but I can say comfortably that the dishes were good quality and presented well. Sparks of happiness were caused during this meal as opposed to ‘lift off’ feelings, but equally, I’m pleased to have gone and it is a very good option to have, particularly for value for money meals prior to the theatre or at lunch in particular. I believe healthy plus points would be gained here for a romantic occasion as well.

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The Clock House is another addition to the newly promoted starred family in the GB and Ireland Michelin guide for 2018. I was passing through on a Saturday for lunch and the £30 set menu represented exceedingly good value, especially as it turned out to be 6 courses when all said and done. The overall quality of the meal was a pleasure to receive and thankfully was another addition to the starred family I agree with, although there were parts of the service that marred the experience somewhat in comparison to more slick affairs that one can come across. However, as a value for money option at Michelin starred level in a cosy dining room set within a charming village of Surrey, you really cannot go wrong here for lunch and I will be happy to come back to try dinner or another menu based on the skill seen in this first visit.

The openers started with mushroom croquette with tarragon and mushroom and crisps with salted orange gel and soy gel with sesame. I found the crisp was at the limit of saltiness and croquette had punch of tarragon but a little dry inside, but otherwise these were a fair start.

The openers started with mushroom croquette with tarragon and mushroom and crisps with salted orange gel and soy gel with sesame. I found the crisp was at the limit of saltiness and croquette had punch of tarragon but a little dry inside, but otherwise these were a fair start.

The amuse bouche of broccoli mousse with Stilton had an absolutely lovely mousse with just enough kick of the Stilton and wonderful element of pickled walnuts on top with the oxtail cooked in red wine which gave the sharpness it needed. This was a lovely amuse bouche.

The pork belly starter was beautifully done and its tangy emulsion with orange coulis was good choice for the tender and fatty pork. The accompanying Merlot was chosen very well with lovely, complimentary sweetness. The short rib beef slow-cooked for 3 hours with kohlrabi, and mustard sauce was wonderful and tender. The perfect fat, beautiful mushroom purée and mustard sauce was very good and it simply could have done with far kore sauce.

The pre-dessert of sea buckthorn, carrot pureee and coconut foam was sweet, creamy and refreshing and a good combination for the transition required. The chocolate mousse, salted orange gel, olive oil emulsion and goats milk ice cream had quite a lot of savoury but I thought they balanced nicely overall.

Petit fours of bitter chocolate truffle (almost smokey) had gorgeously smooth texture and bounce; the other elements of lemon vinesse, white chocolate, vanilla and espresso gel had no issues with the latter being extremely good.

I was very pleased to have visited here and it was in no way a waste of time or money – far from it, this is actually one of the best valued Michelin starred restaurants in the country and moreover, can back it itself up with some very well chosen flavours. Not every part of the meal was a success and the strain on the staff was obvious on occasion as dishes were explained poorly and in a hurry and having to wait 25 minutes for the bread at the beginning of the meal. As usual, the floor manager had customary care but some of the staff appeared to be in need of more professional finesse.

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Coworth Park is a grand-looking hotel and and an obviously good choice to stay, particularly if you need lodgings either side of the races at Ascot. As a superb bonus, the main dining room has now been awarded with a Michelin star and adds to the collection of the newbies for 2018. Chef Adam Smith has certainly got a stylishly good looking series of dishes on his menu and the bottom line is that these were also executed very well and packed a very good balance of flavour. The £75 for the three course a la carte is quite a bit above the average, but I would rather pay this and get the guarantee of the quality than a lower stakes gamble. I look forward to the excuse of coming back to do the full works with wine next time as this is a marker in the sand for future reference.

Bread here was home made sour dough and to a good standard. The amuse bouche included a black pillow with goats cheese and a roe mousse which were light and punchy at same time. Potato with caviar was superb – perfect saltiness, and the truffle potato was likewise delightful (including a dash of dash underneath). This was a commanding start and a very good sign of what was to come.

Bread here was home made sour dough and to a good standard. The amuse bouche included a black pillow with goats cheese and a roe mousse which were light and punchy at same time. Potato with caviar was superb – perfect saltiness, and the truffle potato was likewise delightful (including a dash of dash underneath). This was a commanding start and a very good sign of what was to come.

A taste of caviar tart with beautifully soft creme fraiche and perfect melon balls was a luxurious tart if ever there was one and with pastry served cold to not affect the crab. There was no doubt about this signature sample being something worthy of being show-cased. Duck liver parfait had a good crunch on skin, with the inner not too loose and held together by a delicate crisp with ginger, almond purée and muscat gel. This was perfectly luxurious and I doubt anyone would be unhappy with this.

Lobster with champagne and lobster sauce was very good and the artichoke purée was superb. The only aspect of this that I didn’t enjoy was the sheer toughness of the artichoke crisp. Texture was necessary, but I question whether this has to be almost as per the toughness of a concrete slab.

Vanilla and toast ice cream had, toasted flakes on caramel with orange mousse. This had great originality and was quite sweet at the same time and was an awesome take on breakfast. Thankfully the bergamot was toned down which to me was a blessing as it is not my most favourite of flavours. The hazelnut and malt ice cream was superb with slimy smooth chocolate, a good base and malt ice cream in caramel cigar that was frankly superb. This dessert was among the best I have had with such carefully balanced sweetened flavours and I would say this wouldn’t be out of place in any 2 Michelin starred restaurant (and some with three!).

This really was a beautifully done meal – not only was the presentation elegant, the command of flavours was on the money the whole way through. I’m very pleased this has been added to the Michelin starred family and if it has been like this for a while, one could question why the hell it wasn’t added before.

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Bibendum was the only restaurant to earn 2 Michelin stars in the 2018 guide and this was also as a direct entry from only opening under the banner of Claude Bosi earlier in 2017 after Mr Bosi packed up his 2 Michelin starred Hibiscus. Bibendum is the former HQ of Michelin and also the name of the Michelin tyre man serving as the distinctive symbol, who is now proudly set within the ornate, blue and white windows. The restaurant itself is bright, stylish, as French as they come with its exquisite service and a seeming army of chefs in the kitchen. As a headline, I thought the food just tucked in to the 2 star family based on my meal here and can see from other notable reviews (this was one one the most anticipated openings of 2017), where his designs have continued to be elaborate. Based on the products had, we both left very happy to have had a wonderful meal and time at the same time – a very important formula!

From the very start it was obvious we were in confident hands. At the same time, we were not made to feel uncomfortable which can be the case in establishments of this sort of standing, but I was very pleasantly surprised at how welcoming the hospitality was. The highlight of this was having a quick chat with Claude Bosi himself afterwards and sharing thoughts on the meal which are exactly the same as the below.

From the very start it was obvious we were in confident hands. At the same time, we were not made to feel uncomfortable which can be the case in establishments of this sort of standing, but I was very pleasantly surprised at how welcoming the hospitality was. The highlight of this was having a quick chat with Claude Bosi himself afterwards and sharing thoughts on the meal which are exactly the same as the below.

The meal started with a mini olive tree being brought to the table with olives, that were not olives. These were shaped exactly like olives but were in fact gel-shaped olive moulds, dipped in coco butter, then flavoured with horseradish and apple. Essentially, they broke immediately in the mouth and had a very pleasant contrast of savoury freshness as a snack. Cashew nuts were coated with vinegar dust and were similarly addictive. The final welcome nibbles came in the form of mini cones of foie gras ice cream with coca nibs and mango gel which were nothing short of a delight – light pastry with creamy foie gras. A very good start.

An egg foam filled with mushroom and coconut was a pleasant and light start but I wasn’t convinced that the addition of the coconut worked well with the mushroom. The Cornish cock crab, English Cox’s apple, lime had a sludgy texture as the main facet than the crab, but was packed with freshness and flavour. Perhaps the only part of the meal I didn’t enjoy were the ricotta dumplings. As lovely it was to have Oscietra caviar, I couldn’t detect this very much and the dumplings themselves seemed out of place in this (Obsiblue prawn) consommé. Mr Bosi was very open towards this feedback which I gave afterwards (which I was very surprised about as I was half expecting to be given a pasting in return, but not the case!). It was much more of a pleasure to tell Claude afterwards as well how utterly outstanding the Lancashire mead sauce was that went with the John Dory, its mushroom “ketchup” and Morteaux sausage as it was a distinct joy to eat and even as much to say how much it was to the architect.

Foie gras cooked in fig leaves was delicately served and very nice to have the varying options and the veal sweetbread with stilton and mustard was another total pleasure, pure and simple. The lychee sorbet with black sesame meringue was a very clever pairing and a new sensation. Perhaps the jewel in the crown for design and originality was the Cep vacherin, a hard meringue filled with banana puree, granola, sitting on top of a bed of creme fraiche. The sour and sweets all worked well with this and was without question a fun addition to the proceedings.

The matching wines was elected for as my guest was more in the mood for laziness and thankfully I was more than happy with this approach on this occasion. Thankfully, the selections were all breezy and worked very well, particularly the more rare dessert wine (Muscat de Saint-Jean de Minervois 2015). £208 pp for lunch may seem quite a lot, but for the 9 course tasting menu, pre-drinks and wines throughout and coffee with petit fours at this standard meant I was actually very happy with the return. Through the meal I was debating in my mind at the newly awarded accolade, but when all was reflected on at the end, I quite content this was not a bias or over-award and the experience itself was a wonderfully delivered lunch in wonderful hospitality.

This was significantly more enjoyable than the experience I had at Hibiscus and I would be happy to recommend Bibendum to anyone who wanted a grand time, notable food and all in good hands.

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This is my second visit to Whatley Manor but this time with the new Executive chef Niall Keating to have taken over from the 2 Michelin starred and long standing Martin Burge. Executive chef Niall previously hails from 3 Michelin starred Benu in San Francisco and 2 Michelin starred Restaurant Sat Bains in Nottingham. The tasting menu now resembles a series of smaller dishes that have had obvious care and attention in their design and more importantly, many of which worked well. I particularly enjoyed the fact that the chef de partie and Executive Chef himself were happy to bring some parts of the meal to the table. There were some great moments of this meal and and overall I actually thought more of a food experience than my first visit which is a very good sign for its new concept. The restaurant has a more formal feel in design, but is thankfully brought down to earth by down to earth staff.

I elected for the 12 course tasting menu and this was priced at £99 which is not unreasonable, especially when the results turned out to be as they were. Pre-dinner snacks came in the form of spiced crackers with Japanese emulsion, rice oil, soy and lime which had lovely freshness and kick from lime. Exmoor Caviar was also great to have in its unashamed glory on its own on the side. Two types of Kimchi (fermented Asian vegetables) were also brought to the table – one with eel in tempura aigre-doux (meaning sweet & sour) which was outstanding and one with layered cold slices and daikon which was also refreshingly new.

I elected for the 12 course tasting menu and this was priced at £99 which is not unreasonable, especially when the results turned out to be as they were. Pre-dinner snacks came in the form of spiced crackers with Japanese emulsion, rice oil, soy and lime which had lovely freshness and kick from lime. Exmoor Caviar was also great to have in its unashamed glory on its own on the side. Two types of Kimchi (fermented Asian vegetables) were also brought to the table – one with eel in tempura aigre-doux (meaning sweet & sour) which was outstanding and one with layered cold slices and daikon which was also refreshingly new.

Egg white custard, noodles, chicken broth, freshly picked mushrooms from afternoon & home made noodles & dashi kicked off the meal. These were very pleasant in texture, served with a clean broth and Autumnal sense of mushrooms done well. An 18-hour prepared brown bread was absolutely outstanding bread to have: crispy, light, perfectly warmed, airy and served with buttermilk made to a buerre noisette with special ingredient (marmite) with leak and onion ash sprinkled on top. This was actually so stupendous I had to have another and the danger of this is that I could have kept going on this alone.

Mackerel came next with preserved raspberry & greens & edible flowers. Intense pickled soy broth with sweet of raspberries and crunch of the supporting bocama seaweed. I found the latter quite sharp and actually approaching the maximum level prior to discomfort. The tortellini made with squid ink had 50% pork & 50% pork jelly with apples that had an almost cider quality. This was very autumnal and worked well against the richness of the garlic vinaigrette.

The risotto had chorizo and black radish and was the perfect balance of spice and punch with a lovely textural crunch. Halibut came next with charred alliums (bulb family of vegetables within the onion and garlic family) with pear & shiso which was light and very good. I particularly liked the way the shiso was also calmed down by the pear well. Squab pigeon was served with spiced date purée, fermented kohlrabi and pigeon glaze which had an almost hoi sin quality. The heat in the background in the kohlrabi was not overpowering and was a workable, modern. Aloe vera sorbet with beautifully soft grapes pieces, yuzu olive oil, was floral but toned down well and made for a very original pre-dessert.

Dessert itself was apple, caramel, passion fruit sorbet with honey comb. The caramelised apples were beautiful but the honey on this dish was hard to spread meaning some mouthfuls got far more than others and with the already sharp passion fruit, I found parts of this dish overly sweet. The waffle with black sesame gel and honey however, was absolutely superb (perfect texture & lightness) with my only observation being the sesame almost felt like taking the journey backwards to savoury again. It was a very interesting concept nonetheless.

Home made sake had an unusual fermented bouquet and was sweeter than the smell which was also original as an addition and the petit fours included salted caramel and black fig purée wrapped in coconut rice (like pudding) with coconut leaf which was inventive and pleasing. The salted caramel petit four was utterly outstanding in its purée like form and this rounded off a meal that was highly accomplished. Fusion food can so very often not work when handled in a way whereby the inventor thinks that contrasting flavours will be acceptable because they are different – they have to actually work and be innovative and pleasurable at the same time and in the main, Niall Keating has managed to achieve just that.

I’m very happy to see this restaurant gain a Michelin star based on this new menu and for me, this sits firmly in the upper bracket of all 1 Michelin starred restaurants in the UK. I would thoroughly recommend this venue if you have not been and are comfortable with originality and lengthier tasting menus.

The dishes were undeniably attractive on the eye and beautifully presented but sadly I cannot remember a single one and have had to look at the photos to remind myself, which is a story in itself. The amuse bouche was pleasing to have on the terrace with a pre-dinner drink and the tasting menu exposed real finesse in presentation but I simply do not recall any heart warming moments when dining. Perfectly doable and a lovely thing to have, but sadly the highlight of the stay was more the location and experience of being there rather than the food.

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Locanda Locatelli is one of only three Michelin starred Italian restaurants in the UK (the other two being The River Cafe and Murano). The dining room appeared identical to how I and the photos recall on my first visit 6 years ago, as were some food aspects. I forgot that it was attached and accessible to London’s only Hyatt Regency hotel but a separate business as I was steered on asking. The dishes here proved fulsome and capable with some good breads in the mix as well and whilst I didn’t leave punching the air, the service and offerings were on general form as a competent Michelin starred venue. Lunch for two with a glass of wine was just under £100 which is higher than the average (no set menu or little options on this a la carte menu only) and this was just about acceptable when looking at the whole package. We certainly did not leave hungry and it was not a wasteful visit.

In 2002 Giorgio Locatelli opened this restaurant; he gained a Michelin star the following year and they have held this accolade ever since. Although I gather the kitchen has had a make over in recent years, the dining room, decor and furniture appeared very much the same from my visit 6 years ago and much as I like the round banquettes and layout of the room, the cream coloured leather on the sofa seats were clearly in need of a similar facelift or change as ours appeared worn and stained in parts.

In 2002 Giorgio Locatelli opened this restaurant; he gained a Michelin star the following year and they have held this accolade ever since. Although I gather the kitchen has had a make over in recent years, the dining room, decor and furniture appeared very much the same from my visit 6 years ago and much as I like the round banquettes and layout of the room, the cream coloured leather on the sofa seats were clearly in need of a similar facelift or change as ours appeared worn and stained in parts.

In terms of food, breads appeared to be a strength of the restaurant, so much so, that they are also used as the amuse bouche in the form of pizza and schiacciata mini breads (the latter being made with anchovies, tomatoes, onion and picorino cheese to a very satisfying effect). A small pity was the butter being hard as rock and needing a good 15 minutes to become spreadable. The bread sticks were as they were from years ago (fine, but unremarkable) and the the menu appeared to be a very similar format.

It was only after we had ordered our a la carte dishes that the specials were mentioned and in this was a wonderfully sounding chestnut soup which we ordered on top and shared. This had good all round flavour and was appropriate as an Autumnal dish. The mains were more on the spicy side again, appropriate for the fact that they mainly represent dishes from Southern Italy. The linguine was indeed fine with well done lobster and chilli oil that gave a manageable kick for me, not enough for my dining guest who required some more heat; the staff happily obliged with some chilli flakes on the side on request. The handmade pasta main (generally the size of long cigarettes) was a nice change from the norm and being quite thick cuts, this allowed the pasta to be the main component with a mix of spicy salami, tomatoes, black olives, buffalo ricotta cheese and parmesan shavings at the table. This had reasonable flavour, but not as much as I was hoping for and was surprisingly clumsy in presentation for a Michelin starred restaurant. Of the two mains, the linguine won the day.

Clearly, the fabled Italian tiramisu was needed to try – if you are in a Michelin starred Italian restaurant this was the most no brainer decision to make, to see how Locanda deal with this classic dessert. This version was served with sugared amaretto crumbs on top which had a lovely crunch to them and although I had to forage for seemingly half a lifetime to get to the actual soaked biscuit base, this wasn’t actually a problem as the very best bit was the light, yet well-flavoured cream I had to wade through, so not a problem! So, a worthwhile order is the bottom line here.

The ice creams I thought weren’t as successful but not a disaster at the same time. The white chocolate ice cream had an almost perfume-like quality and was not a scratch on Le Gavroche’s version; the lime ice cream was a little too sharp for my palate but noteworthy with its delicate marshmallow sticks; even the pistachio ice cream was a little bit heavier and stronger than I would have preferred. I was reminded to how a better version of pistachio gelato existed in a simple Gelateria experienced in Rome. However, the almond biscuits of the petit fours were quite wonderful with their beautifully soft and moist interior with crunchy and warm exterior. The truffle chocolates were also to a high standard of silky decadence.

Overall, I was pleased to be back here at Locanda Locatelli to see a better side of the food and although it does not have more reasonable set menu options, the staff were very accommodating throughout and it was a pleasant visit all round. I think the format of the menu and the decor is approaching a time of a needed facelift soon and if you wish hearty and authentic Italian produce, then you are not going to go too far wrong than come here.

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After having to upkeep 2 Michelin stars for 17 years at The Square, Phil Howard seems to be very much enjoying his new, more casual venture at Elystan Street, gaining a Michelin star in the first year of it opening. The restaurant itself lies within a pleasant suburb part of Chelsea and has a smart casual feel, seemingly good for an airy lunch and evening meal alike. This visit was a reasonable set menu lunch on a Sunday for £50 pp which, for a very good Sunday roast seemed reasonable value. Portion sizes were generous (bordering on too much) with service excellent and whilst it was not at the top bracket of Michelin starred options from my viewpoint, it was certainly loaded with some pleasurable options.

I believe that Phil Howard wishes to focus on less ornate food now but still pack lovely flavour – if this is correct, I also believe he’s achieved this well at Elystan Street. This Sunday lunch definitely had some good moments. The mackerel rilletts with pickled cucumber, horseradish and toasted muffins was simple and really enjoyable; my only gripe of this starter was that it was quite a protein rich and large sized starter (not a horrendous sin, but was quite a lot to handle). The mousseline of grouse with pearl barley, lardo di colonnata, green peppercorns and red wine for my guest was fair and with a decent enough red wine jus.

I believe that Phil Howard wishes to focus on less ornate food now but still pack lovely flavour – if this is correct, I also believe he’s achieved this well at Elystan Street. This Sunday lunch definitely had some good moments. The mackerel rilletts with pickled cucumber, horseradish and toasted muffins was simple and really enjoyable; my only gripe of this starter was that it was quite a protein rich and large sized starter (not a horrendous sin, but was quite a lot to handle). The mousseline of grouse with pearl barley, lardo di colonnata, green peppercorns and red wine for my guest was fair and with a decent enough red wine jus.

The mains had some highlights too. The rabbit was pleasant enough with adequate succulence but made me doubly sure I was correct to go for the beef which, as well as having a satisfying finish, was accompanied by a fantastically deep gravy. The all-important Yorkshire pudding was a little too hard for me (some more soft substance inside would have been better), but it all came together well in thankfully not being flooded too much by vegetables – the small amounts that were offered were very well done.

Apple crumble was as homely as they come with a very smooth vanilla ice cream and the smashed brownie with chocolate foam and cream was enough to need a day in a gym as penance, but was enjoyable nonetheless. The wines recommended were paired well and we were looked after very well throughout our meal. Basically, there really is not much to not like here and another meal here will give a wider understanding of the options, but it was relaxed and good quality throughout – perhaps not a million miles away from how Mr Howard likes it to be these days. Will definitely be happy to come back another time.

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Kai is a long-standing Michelin starred Chinese restaurant in a quiet and alluring part of Mayfair and on this revisit I was able to see the entire ‘works’. The meal had some lovely dishes no question (one not changed in 7 years), and is the sort of place that is very good for once in a while treats or romantic occasions. But, the £569 price tag for three adults and a child I thought was verging on insane, even for my exploits and if the fourth diner was an adult, the bill would have been higher still. The killer as usual was obviously the drinks, with £16 cocktails, £45 for the smallest sake and a medium priced bottle of wine at £80. But even still, it is a good advert to either calm down on that front in the evenings or come at lunch instead to minimise the booze. Full details are at the expansion button below as usual, but the overall impression was that it was good to do, but visits will be toned down in future and I am far more inclined to do a blow out at the more reasonably priced, yet also Michelin starred Chinese restaurant A Wong instead, as a reference.

Pre-dinner cocktails were definitely inviting and turned out to be certainly well made, but were essentially over in a couple of slugs, being served in martini glasses and £48 later we were 10 minutes in to the meal. Never mind, they were quite nice and perhaps it won’t be all like that we thought….

Pre-dinner cocktails were definitely inviting and turned out to be certainly well made, but were essentially over in a couple of slugs, being served in martini glasses and £48 later we were 10 minutes in to the meal. Never mind, they were quite nice and perhaps it won’t be all like that we thought….

Nibbles arrived in the form roasted Duke of Berkshire pork belly, ‘char-siew’ BBQ glaze, crispy Bao, pickled cucumber which were entirely doable as were the strips of lightly seared beef fillet with soy vinaigrette, shallot oil & chopped coriander, although the latter could have had slightly more kick from the soy for me. Clearly, the sesame prawn toast had to be done and even though virtually identical to as it was 7 years ago, they were still, as good as they come when it comes to a simple offering (nice and light but with good crunch and toned down oil at the same time).

The ‘pigs in blankets’ consisted of Iberico pork, plum and lime dressing, chopped cashew, sliced shallots, Cos lettuce wraps and these proved good, but simply over in two mouthfuls – another £17 down the tube in under a minute. Pan-fried foie gras of caramelised cashews, white pepper, spring onions, grapes, passion fruit dressing was very well done – great textures and sweet aspects working nicely together and moreover, the foie gras held itself together as well without being overcooked. The Tan Jia’s broth was thick, smooth and packed with flavour as a duck & carrot soup with lobster oil, lobster and spinach. I was also quite pleased with the soft shell crab served with chilli, shallots spiced batter and green mango – this wasn’t the usual drenched in oil affair it can be, so full marks for making the deep fried reminder disappear.

The whole Peking duck was £98 and served in two parts – the first, in the usual way with pancakes and the second as a conventional, stir-fried main. Part one came with cucumber, spring onion and plum sauce as normal but at Kai they insert an additional element of signature chilli sauce which did give it a slight lift I thought and that was good to have. It was undeniably good quality duck and perfectly crunchy skin, but was also a little bland on its own when comparing to the spices that are continually painted on to the cherrywood roasted Peking duck at HKK (sadly now closed). The fried aspect was succulent and fine (nothing special) and the much needed vegetable insert of broccolini was welcome, but frankly almost absurd to be priced at £17. I can understand sides with expensive ingredients being priced in this realm, but broccolini is simply not expensive, so this is a large negative which adds to the pot of being put off from coming back quickly.

With the exception of the chocolate and peanut parfait dessert which was far to heavy (almost like a lump of dense matter), the durian soufflé was wonderfully original and done (not too pungent) and likewise, the pandan creme brûlée served with Malaysian coffee ice cream, ‘Milo’ powder and tuile was an absolute dream to have. Actually, one of the best desserts had on record(!), which was surprising as desserts are not really the forte of Asian restaurants in my experience, so a double pleasure. Petit fours followed a similar formula from years gone and by the end of the meal everyone was more than content with the offerings.

Service throughout was heartfelt but was hindered by only one staff member being able to be properly understood throughout and almost not being allowed to wait at the bar by the front of house while waiting for our taxi afterwards (not good). I was also quite surprised that the toilets were not very well maintained. This almost gave the impression that the restaurant was riding a wave of its beautiful location and swanky interior and then forgetting the importance of the little touches. Not the end of the world, but meant the experience was not as special as it could have been for the charge.

I have few complaints on the food here, bar one or two preferences, but the overriding feeling on leaving was completely and satisfactorily sated, but just a pity it cost £289 for the privilege which, in my view for the above reasons is simply excessive for the return. I will come back at some stage I’m sure, but now that the grand experience has been done, it was definitely enjoyed, but probably doesn’t need to be done again for a wee, while.

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