Richard Bagnold

I was in the area and we needed food, so luckily got a seat prior to everyone and this time had the classic Iberico ham, gorgeous croquetta with béchamel and bacon, incredibly good lemon oil based prawns and a deep fried courgette flower with goats cheese and brushes of syrup. I have to say the dishes were far better than last time and I knew the desserts would be average so simply avoided them and replaced with sherry and beer to go with the savouries! A lovely set of dishes, which were, thankfully not long a wait as we were the last two to get seats on the first ‘wave’. Still would not wait an hour for it but was very pleased to be able to have again.

Food Rating: 83%

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It’s better to think of this place as a quirky change of pace rather than what you could end up thinking which is a bit of a disappointment if you think of it too much as a restaurant. It is a wonderful low end place rather than anything else. The choice of hot dogs here are fantastic and the crusted potato pieces that one can order as a side were, also very gratifying. The notion of having champagne and counter dining in a cosy atmosphere with very different hot dogs with entirely fluffy and fresh buns is original and pleasing.

However my negatives were the fact that the sausages were too thin and hard (almost like chorizo in the case of the truffled mayonnaise hot dog) and the cheese sauce to accompany the fried potato portions felt almost as if it were processed / ordered in. I did not get a chance to find out whether this was the case but it was certainly what it tasted like with its gelatinous feel.

I say confused ethos purely because I was expecting a more causal affair but was almost handled as if I would be lucky to be accommodated because it is what it is, making me think ‘Ok, I know it’s busy, but it’s not exactly the Fat Duck’ and ended up dining with others, which was fun, but not everyone would want this I appreciate. Worth a visit if you want something different and I will pop in again if I am close or entirely hung over and need some wonderful comfort food.

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Located in the sleepy hollow of Herford (North West Germany), the cooking here is homely and comforting whilst also being carefully presented. Personal favourites included the salmon with honey mustard dressing and fried potato cakes – light and just wonderful partners together – and the steak here was done to a beautiful standard – melt in the mouth as well as having the perfect amount of saltiness within its juiciness and on special request, the chef even made sauce béarnaise for me off menu (with a few hours notice of course as didn’t want to make them uncomfortable) and this was probably the best I have ever had. The Italian chef’s trick with the béarnaise was adding an element of Worcestershire sauce and sugar in to the tarragon and shallot proceedings producing a wonderful flavour. I felt quite blessed here and the more I write, the more I realise this, but I understand virtually everyone will hardly ever be in the area. However if you are and need somewhere, I guarantee this to be a very nice option.

Food Grade: 83%

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Although this is essentially a market stall, the fact that I am adding this says something in itself about the pleasantness of the expeirence. With the market hall of St George’s Arcade in Dublin sits Lolly and Cooks. Within the space, there are obviously only so many items to choose from, however, having seen Anthony Bourdain have this on his layover visit and me being in Dublin for a weekend, it was a no brainer to try. Admittedly, my visit was following a few Guinnesses the night before and a 30 minute walk to get there on the Sunday am so I was quite peckish, however, I was frankly blown away by how good the cranberry sausage roll was.

It is microwaved for you on the spot, making the already light pastry that delightful warmth but crucially having the right amount of fluffiness with squidgy underside where the meat is but thankfully was not too oily as a result of the quick heat blast. The meat itself was amongst the best seasoned in a sausage roll I have had in a very long time, hence wishing to mention in this blog. It was so good in fact that I actually asked for the garlic sausage as well after in order to compare and go with the hot chocolate and frankly it was a nice break to spend £7 as opposed to the average £100+ for a large food experience. Of the two I think the cranberry is the clear winner but both are absolutely superb and would recommend this little option to anyone at anytime when hungry.

It is microwaved for you on the spot, making the already light pastry that delightful warmth but crucially having the right amount of fluffiness with squidgy underside where the meat is but thankfully was not too oily as a result of the quick heat blast. The meat itself was amongst the best seasoned in a sausage roll I have had in a very long time, hence wishing to mention in this blog. It was so good in fact that I actually asked for the garlic sausage as well after in order to compare and go with the hot chocolate and frankly it was a nice break to spend £7 as opposed to the average £100+ for a large food experience. Of the two I think the cranberry is the clear winner but both are absolutely superb and would recommend this little option to anyone at anytime when hungry.

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This was a very pleasant menu and there is no question as to the technical skill and care that went in to the tasting menu (i.e. it is very worthy of its 2nd star in my opinion). All the dishes were carefully prepared and there was an element of refinement in all the dishes that were presented. Service was a little too self-assured but this was a very good meal and it was nice to meet Patrick Guilbaud himself who, in his suit came to say hello to all the tables present.

The tomato, bacon and onion bread was subtle, the amuse bouche of beetroot mousse with curry oil and supporting curry soup was heavenly and the suckling pig with foie gras (more to follow on that below) was a delight. The ravioli of lobster was superbly balanced with the softness of the coconut oil but I thought the curled sole and hare courses, although technically sound were only clever rather than wonderful. The mashed potato was pointed out to me to be the best mash available anywhere in the world and although very nice, I’m afraid this was a mistaken claim as the creamed mash in Joel Robuchon’s establishments is without doubt better.

The tomato, bacon and onion bread was subtle, the amuse bouche of beetroot mousse with curry oil and supporting curry soup was heavenly and the suckling pig with foie gras (more to follow on that below) was a delight. The ravioli of lobster was superbly balanced with the softness of the coconut oil but I thought the curled sole and hare courses, although technically sound were only clever rather than wonderful. The mashed potato was pointed out to me to be the best mash available anywhere in the world and although very nice, I’m afraid this was a mistaken claim as the creamed mash in Joel Robuchon’s establishments is without doubt better.

Thankfully the marvellous choices of chutneys and cheeses put things back on track and dessert was highly skilled but unmemorable. All in all it was a strong performance on the food and would recommend to anyone booking well in advance of a visit to Dublin if you want a definitely pleasing food experience whilst over there.

Where the restaurant did not earn many points was on two counts of service. Firstly, I was escorted to the restaurant to find all the staff being briefed making me quite uncomfortable (as was the lad who escorted me) and so I took up his offer to be taken back to the bar and ordered a G & T until they were ready – I do not know whether the chap on the door knew the waiting staff were still being briefed – hopefully this was not the case and a minor accident.

The second was on the suckling pig course: this was not actually on the tasting menu but because I couldn’t have the scallop that was (allergy) I asked if it could be replaced by the suckling pig – the answer came back as yes. However, when the course came, the confident French waiter described the dish in a fast and impersonal way as “Croquettes of suckling pig, pancetta, fried quail egg and foie gras” to which I said, “Thank you; where is the foie gras?”, noticing immediately that it was not present. As the waiter knew he was well and truly busted he paused, stumbled and quickly went away and then came back to say that because it was on the tasting menu it was not to have foie gras. The immediate image in my head was George McFly from Back To The Future saying: “Errr, now BIFF – don’t CON me……!”.

I obviously pointed out this was not mentioned and had it been I wouldn’t have ordered it etc etc, all logical stuff to basically say, go away and get me a small piece immediately as it’s perfectly possible and you agreed in the first place anyway. This they did, but I mention this in such detail, as the situation (when there clearly was room to manoeuvre) demonstrated that the restaurant was a little too full of itself, which is an unhealthy attitude. The general tone of the voice at the end of the booking and reservation line would also support this.

Overall, apart from a somewhat over-confident approach of the staff who seem to be in a comfort zone of perceived safety as the country’s top restaurant, I thought the food was highly refined with some lovely moments but sits not in the top, but in the middle quadrant of the 2 Michelin family. A highly enjoyable meal though.

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A new addition to the 1 Michelin star family for 2014/15 and I was highly pleased with the visit. Set menu lunch was taken downstairs at their bar which came with the added bonus of having an individual waiter for our entire meal who clearly knew his stuff and took great pride in serving us our lunch. Most other areas have dining booths which is always good to have an element of privacy at your table and the décor hailing back to the British Raj in India felt extremely welcoming. The reasonable prices of the lunch, combined with the fact that there was so much we couldn’t even finish and the fact that there were some lovely, different beers to choose from made it an entirely comfortable and pleasing visit. The food itself was clearly well thought out and the star of the show was the slow barbequed and spiced Salmon – a definite treat to have. Would recommend this restaurant to anyone for virtually any occasion.

Food Grade: 81%

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This is one of the most impressive views whilst having a bite to eat that can be gained anywhere in the world. The skyview bar is merely a few steps away for pre-dinner or after dinner drinks and although you might think you would be able to simply go from the bar to Sirocco as it’s so close for a bite, you have no chance if this was left to a spontaneous decision as tables here get booked up well in advance. I would not expect an amazing food experience if you went here, but nor would it be a bad meal; you just need to forego being annoyed at the expense for what it is.

The food I thought was actually very good and although only the breads and two courses were experienced, it showed a competent level of cooking and was genuinely pleasing. Obvious care had been taken in the selection and temperature of the breads given and the supporting olive oils and balsamic were obviously not of a low standard. The poached egg and mushroom velouté was extremely pleasant and the Iberico ham and supporting crisps were similarly pleasing. It was comfort food done well here and although nothing really incredible or bad on the food here alike, I thought it was nice but the price tag for the meal was clearly geared around the view rather than the food – it simply felt like a bonus in their eyes that the food was ok as well.

The food I thought was actually very good and although only the breads and two courses were experienced, it showed a competent level of cooking and was genuinely pleasing. Obvious care had been taken in the selection and temperature of the breads given and the supporting olive oils and balsamic were obviously not of a low standard. The poached egg and mushroom velouté was extremely pleasant and the Iberico ham and supporting crisps were similarly pleasing. It was comfort food done well here and although nothing really incredible or bad on the food here alike, I thought it was nice but the price tag for the meal was clearly geared around the view rather than the food – it simply felt like a bonus in their eyes that the food was ok as well.

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This was the final restaurant to be done on a holiday that saw 17 Michelin stars being done in 5 days which was quite a trip and also superb as a glimpse of what Andy Halyer’s lifestyle must be like sometimes. And what this trip did, was actually expose where there are certainly holes within the reality of some places awarded the highest accolades. After our meal here at Robuchon au Dome however, it was a relief that this certainly was a special place for food. Set at the top of the Lisboa hotel in Macau and with reviews stemming across the web of the highest order, the expectation was naturally high. This is a danger area in itself as it can only serve as a shock if it does not meet this pre-conceived hope, however I can confirm it was highly special.

The amuse bouche and bread were fine and the fun aspect of the butter being scooped at the table was pleasing. The abalone and fish courses however, were in a different league and the sheer decadence of the multiple options were a treat for the eyes and a sumptuous affair for the mouth. There was real freshness from the sea in all of these 6 mini-dishes showing real care and attention and the congealed consommé with caviar and cream was simply luxury on a plate. The egg with cheese sauce and white truffle was sensational, the frogs legs utterly light and the champignon tartlets were beautifully seasoned with truffle oil with a very clever picture of a mushroom made out of mushroom powder. The knock out course however was the breadcrumb coated cheese soufflé with wagyu beef – this was a dish that from the moment I had the first mouthful I did not want it to stop.

The amuse bouche and bread were fine and the fun aspect of the butter being scooped at the table was pleasing. The abalone and fish courses however, were in a different league and the sheer decadence of the multiple options were a treat for the eyes and a sumptuous affair for the mouth. There was real freshness from the sea in all of these 6 mini-dishes showing real care and attention and the congealed consommé with caviar and cream was simply luxury on a plate. The egg with cheese sauce and white truffle was sensational, the frogs legs utterly light and the champignon tartlets were beautifully seasoned with truffle oil with a very clever picture of a mushroom made out of mushroom powder. The knock out course however was the breadcrumb coated cheese soufflé with wagyu beef – this was a dish that from the moment I had the first mouthful I did not want it to stop.

These sorts of moments instantly make you try to prolonge the experience as long as possible – a difficult position for anyone to be in(!). This course really was a sensation. The desserts and the dessert trolley in particular were fabulous and the floor manager who looked after us to an impeccable standard throughout the meal was with us the whole way; by the end he was practically wanting us to have the whole trolley, something we wished we could do if we had the capacity. After everyone had left, and being extremely polite I couldn’t not take the opportunity to have a quick tinkle on their Piano as is the most ludicrously opulent Baby Grand I have ever seen – and thankfully my Georgia on My Mind went down just about well enough to not be kicked out.

This was a fabulous and memorable feast. I suppose the expectation was so high that on the night that was the only self-imposed danger, as I had probably set my hopes up too much and was waiting for more fireworks. However, the quality of this meal was undeniable and it was a lovely experience to now have banked in the life-tick box category. An amazing meal.

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The overall impression of this establishment, set in the Lisboa hotel is pretty much on exactly the same lines of Lung King Heen. It was great to get a quick table here to simply have a few nibbles in the evening as it is a 3 Michelin starred venue, however, on exactly the same principles, the menu was reasonable but the actual products failed to show anything special at all. Maybe we were unlucky in our choices in spite of consulting the head waiter on this. Dissapointing for the accolade.

It certainly was refined and well prepared and presented, however the only aspects that were absolutely lovely were the pork bites and the chicken, but these are easy victories as the flavours are automatically pleasing from the deep fried and sweet nature. In actual fact, I could actually see some of these dishes being served as easily in a Royal China in London, less the intricate designs of the amuse bouche and signature dessert.

It certainly was refined and well prepared and presented, however the only aspects that were absolutely lovely were the pork bites and the chicken, but these are easy victories as the flavours are automatically pleasing from the deep fried and sweet nature. In actual fact, I could actually see some of these dishes being served as easily in a Royal China in London, less the intricate designs of the amuse bouche and signature dessert.

It clearly was not a displeasure, but again, I simply struggled to see why this had such high accolade and I thought the desserts were wholly average in flavour. They could of course be absolutely of the highest quality to the desserts that they resembled; regrettably these flavours are just not my kind of special in any way.

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So full marks on the glamour here, but what was a shame was that on arrival (admittedly a few minutes early, we were asked to wait outside in a rather curt manner by the rather bland, conference centre, like balcony – this was understandable (just) as we were there before 12:30pm, but to be kept waiting until 12:36pm without explanation – not good. Anyhow, after an unfortunate beginning, on entering and being placed, we were well looked after. Some great moments, but ultimately few in number and ultimately is was a surprise after the meal that the restaurant had 3 Michlelin stars.

The pastries, oils and dim sum in particular were absolutely divine. We were aware from multiple reviews that these aspects and dim sum was their forte, and we were glad to have experienced. There are only so many ways in which these dishes can be above A-grade but there was no dispute as to how good they were. The pork cubes produced a moment of sheer happiness and are worthy of being acknowledged.

The pastries, oils and dim sum in particular were absolutely divine. We were aware from multiple reviews that these aspects and dim sum was their forte, and we were glad to have experienced. There are only so many ways in which these dishes can be above A-grade but there was no dispute as to how good they were. The pork cubes produced a moment of sheer happiness and are worthy of being acknowledged.

The lesser end of the scale however, was discovered during the rice, soup and desserts which I felt were completely bland and even the petits fours of jelly cubes seem to have virtually no flavour and were a huge disappointment. Chinese desserts would appear to be a refined taste and based on the Michelin starred Chinese desserts had, the traditional ones are simply not for me. I appreciate my tastes will be different to many, but the boring nature and bland, almost savoury overtones present within these traditional soup deserts simply do not excite or entice me. Therefore, as an experience, this was a pleasant one with a couple of very pleasing moments but nothing more and I struggled to see why this restaurant had been awarded 3 Michelin stars.

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