About
Richard Bagnold MBA MA PGCE was born and bred in London and has travelled extensively in the UK and overseas.
From an early age he's been interested in fine food. Now he's one of the very few people – if not the only person – to have visited and reviewed every Michelin starred restaurant in the UK.
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London, United Kingdom
Born
June 02
Job Title
Founder & MD
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Restaurants
- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at Cucina Torcicoda at Cucina Torcicoda
As one walks past here you would be forgiven for thinking it is a wine shop with a counter bar to try all the options. It has a very elegant interior and one can either have food at this front bar area, or there is a more formal dining area further through (where a wedding breakfast was taking place when we were there), an outside coffee area with... More
As one walks past here you would be forgiven for thinking it is a wine shop with a counter bar to try all the options. It has a very elegant interior and one can either have food at this front bar area, or there is a more formal dining area further through (where a wedding breakfast was taking place when we were there), an outside coffee area with heated lamps or a rustic brasserie area for lunch which we enjoyed.
The food options were decent enough and as was my first time in Italy I obviously wanted to try a pizza (accepting that the very best will probably be in Naples or elsewhere). I’ll get the bad things out of the way first: the opening bread was frankly horrid in being utterly plain and dense at the same time with virtually no redeming features. Not even the olive oil, balsamic or their home made chilli oil could disguise this fact. I’m told this is quite normal for Florence so with a bit more travelling I will be able to make a judgement of this, but the net result is, I did not find this good at all. I also found the lack of any drizzle on the mixed salad a distinct lack of effort. Maybe this was on purpose, but again, the net result was unimaginative and bland.
The food options were decent enough and as was my first time in Italy I obviously wanted to try a pizza (accepting that the very best will probably be in Naples or elsewhere). I’ll get the bad things out of the way first: the opening bread was frankly horrid in being utterly plain and dense at the same time with virtually no redeming features. Not even the olive oil, balsamic or their home made chilli oil could disguise this fact. I’m told this is quite normal for Florence so with a bit more travelling I will be able to make a judgement of this, but the net result is, I did not find this good at all. I also found the lack of any drizzle on the mixed salad a distinct lack of effort. Maybe this was on purpose, but again, the net result was unimaginative and bland.
However, the pizza dough was among the nicest I have had and although there were slightly burnt areas, it was gorgeously rich, chewy and wonderful with tomatoes that had a subtle garlic edge and was the first time I had had a pizza with virtualy no toppings and found this to be absoltely ok! The lamb was delightful and seasoned beautifully and the blue cheese sauce was a fair enough addition. The seafood spaghetti was nicely done and the steak tartare was good (as it always is) but did not rate anywhere near that served at Brasserie Chavot, Berner’s Tavern or especially Chiltern Firehouse as there was just not enough components to make special and the parmesan mousse was more like a thick quinnel of cream that I had to carefully deconstruct to give a fair spread to it all.
All in all this is a lovely option just off the market square by the Church of Santa Croce for dropping in to a place because ‘that looks nice…’. Lovely pizza and ideal for a casual drop in or to have tea outside by the market square.
https://major-foodie.com/cucina-torcicoda-florence/
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- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at Umu at Umu
This is my second visit to Umu after a four year absence and I was looking forward to seeing the change since its elevation to 2 Michelin stars in the 2016 guide. The produce on this visit was nothing short of exquisitely clean flavours and precise presentation. Although Japanese food is not my absolute favourite, one cannot deny the sheer perfection... More
This is my second visit to Umu after a four year absence and I was looking forward to seeing the change since its elevation to 2 Michelin stars in the 2016 guide. The produce on this visit was nothing short of exquisitely clean flavours and precise presentation. Although Japanese food is not my absolute favourite, one cannot deny the sheer perfection of preparation at this venue I have to say.
Particular highlights of this visit and meal were actually the little things such as a beautifully clean and refreshing yet not too salty soy sauce, the excellent foie gras canapé, truly wonderful pickled ginger which was not only refreshing to eat as a palate cleanser between each piece of Sushi as the Japanese do, I could have actually eaten a plate of it on its own as it was so tangy but light and sweet at the same time without being ludicrously over powering as they can be.
Particular highlights of this visit and meal were actually the little things such as a beautifully clean and refreshing yet not too salty soy sauce, the excellent foie gras canapé, truly wonderful pickled ginger which was not only refreshing to eat as a palate cleanser between each piece of Sushi as the Japanese do, I could have actually eaten a plate of it on its own as it was so tangy but light and sweet at the same time without being ludicrously over powering as they can be.
I was honoured that the Exec Chef who happened to be there produced specially sourced langoustine from his recent trip to the islands off the north coast of Scotland and a total pleasure to see the Exec Chef (Yoshironi Ishii) prepare his sushi and sashimi just opposite me from the counter position and to speak about various food preparation topics. The langoustines were sweet, plump and juicy and with the simple addition of treated, Japanese salt which, although looks obsenely too much in the photo, were actually somehow softened down and had the texture of soap flakes that were only very lightly salted in flavour. I asked, but he didn’t want to let his secret of how he makes these salt flakes away, and I don’t blame him as they were totally unique and wonderful.
Although I was very aware of the promotion, I entered with a completely neutral and open mind as always and overall I was delighted with this experience over my first visit as even the amuse bouche had so obviously been boosted a notch up since my first visit and these little things do really have a big impact. I didn’t feel the cucumber sauce with the Japanese fish and chips was hugely special however as the notable down side and the £145 with one glass of wine for the nibbles and selections I still think is far too high in price. You certainly get some wonderfully crafted food with very clean cut flavours, but I simply feel you have to absolutely adore Japanese food to merit the price tag, accepting that the ‘Ikejime‘ method of neutralising fish which is done here, adds to the unique level that food is prepared here.
The feel of this restaurant is slick and swanky but at the same time hsopitable and I liked the “mushay-mushen” greeting as you walk in which is a change from last time and I think helps the restaurant to lose formality and be more relaxed. A beautifully done meal overall and one I will try and go back for without waiting another four years….but possibly at the beginning of the month just for safety.
The meat itself was succulent but did not etch its way in to my memories other than the pleasant theatre that it was. Another £100 per person meal with drinks that basically made me feel short-changed. Zuma in Knightsbridge is probably a better option for Japanese food as that has the bonus of a superb atmosphere and indeed ROKA in Canary Wharf has a similar feel if you are not too inconvenienced going in to the financial district of East London for a meal. The latter option is probably of most benefit though to those who live locally to Canary Wharf or those who are travelling in from the East counties to Liverpool Street station as a nice thing to do in getting glammed up and have a ‘stylish’ and trendy affair whilst looking for like minded & attractive clientele.
https://major-foodie.com/umu/
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- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at Chapters at The Ivy Cafe Blackheath
I have been here many times having grown up in Blackheath and remember it well when it was Chapter II (sister restaurant to Chapter One in Kent) 20 odd years ago. It actually changed from the restaurant (only) that it was to the all day dining brasserie it is now whilst I was away abroad for 6 months, so when I got back I was surprised as it was pretty... More
I have been here many times having grown up in Blackheath and remember it well when it was Chapter II (sister restaurant to Chapter One in Kent) 20 odd years ago. It actually changed from the restaurant (only) that it was to the all day dining brasserie it is now whilst I was away abroad for 6 months, so when I got back I was surprised as it was pretty much the flagship restaurant in Blackheath. Obvious care and attention to the brunch experience but ultimately some aspects that could have been better as well.
Many shops and restaurants have changed since, so there is a possibility that there are others I have not been to that are worthy of trying. However, the stylish look, casual feel, attentive service and array of menu choices do make this venue a very nice option as there is not much to dislike. I have found the service can be quite stretched to discomfort levels when fully booked and even seen / heard staff being argumentative with each other when the pressure is high which, if removed, would raise its game a lot. However, I have also found the staff very accommodating and hospitable to guests as much as is possible to requests which is actually a forte of this venue.
Many shops and restaurants have changed since, so there is a possibility that there are others I have not been to that are worthy of trying. However, the stylish look, casual feel, attentive service and array of menu choices do make this venue a very nice option as there is not much to dislike. I have found the service can be quite stretched to discomfort levels when fully booked and even seen / heard staff being argumentative with each other when the pressure is high which, if removed, would raise its game a lot. However, I have also found the staff very accommodating and hospitable to guests as much as is possible to requests which is actually a forte of this venue.
There is obvious care in to the smoothies, shakes, hot drinks and general brunch options and I think this says a lot as only places that have pride in their work will go to this attentive level for the small things which I do like here. The salad and eggs benedict were on form today with perfectly runny yolks but I don’t agree with the top of the eggs being grilled just for decoration as this seriously affects the hollondaise – sprinkles of herbs or seasoning would be what I would go for instead here.
It hasn’t always been this well done on some past occasions however, today was very good. Aspects that could have been better, I would say the were the chips as, although wonderful, had too much cooking oil within them (and could have had this soaked away more before serving) and I felt the sauce béarnaise could have done with a touch more seasoning (the tarragon was fine but seemed to need a touch more acidity via more punch from the shallot & white wine reduction and salt). Still, very pleasant brunch and even more cherished for the detox diet I am shortly about to embark on.
https://major-foodie.com/chapters-blackheath/
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- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at Kitchen W8 at Kitchen W8
This is my second and long overdue revisit to Kitchen W8 after several years. It has maintained its Michelin star and I’ve been meaning to get back as the pictures taken with the iPhone on the first visit simply won’t do by today’s standards. So it was good to get back and also give it another go as I did not think anything particularly notable on... More
This is my second and long overdue revisit to Kitchen W8 after several years. It has maintained its Michelin star and I’ve been meaning to get back as the pictures taken with the iPhone on the first visit simply won’t do by today’s standards. So it was good to get back and also give it another go as I did not think anything particularly notable on the first visit. As I was passing through today, I had every intention of going for the very reasonable set menu but was rather taken aback at the truffle tasting menu as every course just sounded delicious and the return for the price on the a la carte I had doubts on. So it was full steam ahead to truffle land.
The sour dough was made off premises and was fine as a fluffy and light option; thankfully there was additional salt on hand to assist the non-salted butter at the table. The amuse bouche of duck egg custard with truffle pesto layer and bacon foam was great and the slices of brioche with warmed slivers of ham was gorgeous. Logistically it was strange however, as the brioche ‘soldiers’ were too big to dunk in the shot glass (and gain a bit of every layer) as the title suggested, so presentationally that was a little bit of a let down and by the time I had scooped parts on to the soldiers I was left with a large amount of nothing but duck egg custard on its own owing to the size and shape of the mini glass cup (and the fact that the bacon foam was quite runny). When all were put together I thought the flavour was absolutely superb. I simply think the logistics of it were wrong and it would be better with the egg custard, truffle pesto and bacon foam in a flatter ramekin so that the soldiers could be dipped fully.
The sour dough was made off premises and was fine as a fluffy and light option; thankfully there was additional salt on hand to assist the non-salted butter at the table. The amuse bouche of duck egg custard with truffle pesto layer and bacon foam was great and the slices of brioche with warmed slivers of ham was gorgeous. Logistically it was strange however, as the brioche ‘soldiers’ were too big to dunk in the shot glass (and gain a bit of every layer) as the title suggested, so presentationally that was a little bit of a let down and by the time I had scooped parts on to the soldiers I was left with a large amount of nothing but duck egg custard on its own owing to the size and shape of the mini glass cup (and the fact that the bacon foam was quite runny). When all were put together I thought the flavour was absolutely superb. I simply think the logistics of it were wrong and it would be better with the egg custard, truffle pesto and bacon foam in a flatter ramekin so that the soldiers could be dipped fully.
The macaroni cheese was lovely. Velvety, hand rolled and fresh macaroni with a lovely cauliflower and Vacherin Mont d’Or cheese foam were supported by the crunch of the cooked cauliflower and the floppy luxury of the thinly sliced white truffle – delicious and a complete winner of a dish.
The beef and dumplings was frankly a triumph. I loved the suppleness of the beef especially and the truffled mash with the crisp leaf and onion consommé was absolutely lovely. If I had to be ultra nip-picky, the it (the consommé) was not 100% transparent and had a tiny bit of cloudiness but the overall flavour of this dish was simply knock out.
If anyone who had this menu was getting worried that they weren’t full much, then not to worry the dessert felt like a week’s worth of calories in one dish anyway. The banana loaf with hot chocolate sauce and glazed bananas and truffle honey ice cream cake together very well although the immediate impression was that the truffle in the honey ice cream was a tad too powerful for me, but with a little less with everything else, it was a lovely combination.
Overall this was an exceedingly lovely menu and I was really pleased. It was also very nice to see a lighter, breezier and more atmsopheric Kitchen W8 in comparison to my first visit. The service appeared strained at the peak of service as the opening wait at the table was in danger of being too long, however, I was very well looked after throughout and the bar in both food and experience was a considerable notch up from my first visit.
https://major-foodie.com/kitchen-w8/
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- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at The Plough at Plough at Bolnhurst
This is a lovely option off the beaten track which most would probably drive past noting the whitewashed exterior only. As pubs go this had a huge car park and a charming interior with an array of staff in the background. It’s difficult not to be taken by the alluring interior and log fire as soon as you walk in. A lovely venue here, with good... More
This is a lovely option off the beaten track which most would probably drive past noting the whitewashed exterior only. As pubs go this had a huge car park and a charming interior with an array of staff in the background. It’s difficult not to be taken by the alluring interior and log fire as soon as you walk in. A lovely venue here, with good food and a team that clearly cares about the product and guest experience that will comfortably tick numerous boxes for any occasion.
Getting straight to it, I thought the food here was positively lovely. It doesn’t need to be intricate and in most cases the simple things done well will always win and here I enjoyed seeing and tasting just this. The first serving at the table was the home made bread, straight out of the oven and this was indeed a strong opening impression as although it was a little bit dense for my taste, there are many Michelin starred restaurants that simply don’t bother to go to this level of detail and effort. So this was not only noticeable from the word go but was also pleasant to dip in the olive oil served with as well.
Getting straight to it, I thought the food here was positively lovely. It doesn’t need to be intricate and in most cases the simple things done well will always win and here I enjoyed seeing and tasting just this. The first serving at the table was the home made bread, straight out of the oven and this was indeed a strong opening impression as although it was a little bit dense for my taste, there are many Michelin starred restaurants that simply don’t bother to go to this level of detail and effort. So this was not only noticeable from the word go but was also pleasant to dip in the olive oil served with as well.
The crab thermidor was a dish I haven’t seen in quite a while and was very nice to see again, full of flavour with pleasant textures to keep interesting. Although the butternut squash soup was not my dish, I have to say on trying it had a strong impact for just being that good. The medallions of fillet steak were beautifully done and were wonderful on their own, but the fresh béarnaise sauce was so good, the meat was never going to be allowed to be left on its own. I believe you can tell a lot about a kitchen based on its sauce alone, and here the béarnaise was done superbly – perfect consistency and with just the right zing from the tarragon combined with the creamyness that béarnaise fans would wish. Bravo on this count alone.
The creamed spinach was fullsome but not swimming in cream as so many venues do which is a big error in my book as that simply causes cream-bleeding all over the rest of the plate, leaking in to other parts so I really liked this version, as well as the hand cut, tripple cooked chips – just the right size (not too big) but with that lovely fluffiness coated with a reassuring and satisfying crunch at the same time.
The dessert of whisky and chestnut parfait was carefully done and although I didn’t think as highly as the main (difficult to top the quality of the main), I thought with the creme anglaise and hazelnut meringe it was good.
One thing struck me by the time the coffees arrived afterwards, which was that the service had been outstanding throughout the meal and at no time had our table been pestered to be asked how it all was which happens in so many venues and, to be harsh but fair, this is clearly driven by a need to satisfy a restaurant’s insecurity rather than think of the guest’s comfort. The diner will always say what they think at the end and does not need to be badgered about this and so I thought the unobtrusive and caring nature of the service here was exceedingly good and as caring as that which had clearly gone in to the cooking.
I was genuinely pleased with this and not expecting to be so happy with the product, so this is a pleasure to be writing as is always lovely to come across a new discovery like this when you least expect it.
https://major-foodie.com/the-plough-bolnhurst/
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- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at Amaya at Amaya
Situated in a beautiful little enclave and tucked away from the main roads, you would not know about this restaurant unless you were searching the Michelin Guide or had heard from word of mouth (or me!). Drivers will often not notice as they pass by. Not a bad thing as it means most who go there are going for the food, which, thankfully is reassuringly... More
Situated in a beautiful little enclave and tucked away from the main roads, you would not know about this restaurant unless you were searching the Michelin Guide or had heard from word of mouth (or me!). Drivers will often not notice as they pass by. Not a bad thing as it means most who go there are going for the food, which, thankfully is reassuringly well done.
Some repeat dishes on this third visit including the superb chicken coconut wraps and wonderful sweet and sour chutney to go with plain naans. I felt the goats cheese salad was a little overpowered by the mandarin and that to make the dish better it could have had less of it and the skin removed – this sort of effort would be more synonymous with a 2 Michelin starred restaurant.
Some repeat dishes on this third visit including the superb chicken coconut wraps and wonderful sweet and sour chutney to go with plain naans. I felt the goats cheese salad was a little overpowered by the mandarin and that to make the dish better it could have had less of it and the skin removed – this sort of effort would be more synonymous with a 2 Michelin starred restaurant.
The service was very attentive and hospitable on this occasion however, the suprise was that after one hair was found in the rose petal chutney (which is careless) and this replaced, a second hair was found on the chili lamb. This shows that there was either a rushed or non inspection at the pass or simply not enough care put in to the presentation full stop. The restaurant did however offer a courtesy dessert and dropped the service charge off the bill for the lapse. This was obviously warmly received and I have to say both desserts were in fact utterly gorgeous and actually the stars of the show.
All in all, another very pleasant series of dishes. Just a shame that the execution wasn’t quite there today.
Particular highlights were the chicken and coconut in lettuce and the care taken on the selection of rhubarb, tomato, peanut and rose petal chutneys. The black pepper chicken seems to be a proud highlight remaining on the menu since my last visit four years ago. Popadoms are not served owing to the establishment not wishing guests to become too full on these and detract from the main cooking which is perfectly logical. It was also lovely to see the different cooking methods for an added element of theatre.
This was a particualrly well done series of tapas sized dishes of Indian food from all regions of the country. The heritage of the cooking is set in a ‘crystal glass belgravia’ setting and the food did not dissapoint in anyway. Service was a little inconsistent and needed some refining but was heartfelt and welcoming all the way through. A lovely meal and afternoon, leaving only a proper evening tasting menu / experience to be had here, which I think will be absolutely worth doing.
https://major-foodie.com/amaya/
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- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at Northcote at Northcote
This was a quality and lovely Sunday lunch and at 1 Michelin starred level, the £42 pp is, in my view, very good value for money. Sceptics need only look at the photos below to see why I say this. Having actually tasted and experienced it, I found the menu simple and homely yet clever and with some really good moments combined. Definite return... More
This was a quality and lovely Sunday lunch and at 1 Michelin starred level, the £42 pp is, in my view, very good value for money. Sceptics need only look at the photos below to see why I say this. Having actually tasted and experienced it, I found the menu simple and homely yet clever and with some really good moments combined. Definite return for the diner here.
– the slices of sausage roll and onion mousse with cheese crackers as snacks in the bar were some of the nicest pre-lunch nibbles I have had in a long time. Although quite rich, the chicken liver parfait with mushroom toast starter was utterly divine in its decadence and other stand out moments were the pork main, beef main with wonderful horseraddish and yorkshire pudding with trimmings done very well (difficult to see how this could be bettered as a Sunday roast beef dish) and the apple fool dessert. The remaining dishes simmered at pleasant on the pleasure meter. However, all in all, this was a superb Sunday roast meal which I thought was very reasonable for the return, all served with gracious and warm courtesy and a very well selected wine list – wine lovers will be in good hands with the sommelier here.
– the slices of sausage roll and onion mousse with cheese crackers as snacks in the bar were some of the nicest pre-lunch nibbles I have had in a long time. Although quite rich, the chicken liver parfait with mushroom toast starter was utterly divine in its decadence and other stand out moments were the pork main, beef main with wonderful horseraddish and yorkshire pudding with trimmings done very well (difficult to see how this could be bettered as a Sunday roast beef dish) and the apple fool dessert. The remaining dishes simmered at pleasant on the pleasure meter. However, all in all, this was a superb Sunday roast meal which I thought was very reasonable for the return, all served with gracious and warm courtesy and a very well selected wine list – wine lovers will be in good hands with the sommelier here.
Thanks to Lisa for a super lunch and for the hospitality from the team on the special occasion that it was – well executed on all counts and a repeat visit for a different menu at some point in the future is frankly a given.
https://major-foodie.com/northcote-lancashire/
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- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at Portland at Portland
This is a quiet and cosy restaurant with the feel of an upmarket cafe but serving carefully crafted food. The service was warm from start to finish and I loved the cocktail and wine options as they have clearly thought about making people comfortable, in a relaxed environment but not forgotten the importance of being able to have very good options... More
This is a quiet and cosy restaurant with the feel of an upmarket cafe but serving carefully crafted food. The service was warm from start to finish and I loved the cocktail and wine options as they have clearly thought about making people comfortable, in a relaxed environment but not forgotten the importance of being able to have very good options (for e.g. the explanations of all wine options and selected upper echelon wine choices by the glass so that one can try. Pleasing products and a venue which I think would be even better with a set menu.
Although you could argue that the snacks should be gratis as an amuse bouche they were sublime; in particular the white truffle and gruyere cheese macaroon and chicken skin with liver parfait, both at £1.50 each. I thought these were delightful and so I ordered another couple and was glad as a result they were not complimentary as I wouldn’t be able to do that otherwise(!).
Although you could argue that the snacks should be gratis as an amuse bouche they were sublime; in particular the white truffle and gruyere cheese macaroon and chicken skin with liver parfait, both at £1.50 each. I thought these were delightful and so I ordered another couple and was glad as a result they were not complimentary as I wouldn’t be able to do that otherwise(!).
I opted for a starter and one side for my first course and another starter and a side as my second course as I wanted to try as much as possible. The first being sashimi of halibut, buttermilk and black radish which was satisfying and the baby gem, herbs, radish and buttermilk seemed the obvious partner (nothing fancy here but a pleasant buttermilk glaze). I thought the salsify, mangalitsa pig, comté was pleasant but slightly less pig on the plate as I was hoping as only a few shavings but agreeable none the less. The real hero of the day though was the remaining side ratte potato with montgomery cheddar which came as a delightful airated sauce. This was beautifully done. The dessert of hazelnut éclair was a fine finish no question – wonderfully flavoured cream and crispy outer layer with salted nuts and sugar on the top.
All in all I thought this was a pleasant experience and I’m sure the mains would have been equally so and I will come back to do one of those when I can. I do feel the menu would benefit from having a set menu at lunch as this would give a bit more variety to the food options, however, I did find all these well done on the day.
https://major-foodie.com/portland-fitzrovia/
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- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at The Duck & Rice at Duck & Rice
My second visit to this very clever and comfortable pub / restaurant. This time the bar snacks menu was opted for in the lower level which is the pub / bar element, complete with roaring fires and loud music. The bar snack menu is a condensed version of the main menu and based on the choice (and prices) you can frankly have lunch or supper on these... More
My second visit to this very clever and comfortable pub / restaurant. This time the bar snacks menu was opted for in the lower level which is the pub / bar element, complete with roaring fires and loud music. The bar snack menu is a condensed version of the main menu and based on the choice (and prices) you can frankly have lunch or supper on these bar snacks shared between small groups and I have to say they were very good.
The Malaysian noodles were very well done (more difficult than some may believe to not serve undercooked or easily over cook) and the sesame prawn toast were perfectly pleasant but a little steep for the portion sizes but well done. However, the star of the show was the beautifully done scampi in such light batter with Himalayan salt and chili mayonnaise. As these and the noodles were quite spicy, they were washed down by the home made tank beer and this again, I have to say was actually very good.
The Malaysian noodles were very well done (more difficult than some may believe to not serve undercooked or easily over cook) and the sesame prawn toast were perfectly pleasant but a little steep for the portion sizes but well done. However, the star of the show was the beautifully done scampi in such light batter with Himalayan salt and chili mayonnaise. As these and the noodles were quite spicy, they were washed down by the home made tank beer and this again, I have to say was actually very good.
I was gutted that the Japanese fish fingers were sold out as that was one of the main reasons for going back, but not a problem as this means I must go back for them at a later stage. This is now confirmed in my opinion as a quality safe bet venue for drop ins and have no doubt it will continue to be very popular as its formula works so well. I will definitely be dropping in here again over the cold months as is the perfect refuge and I recommend as such.
The food itself I thought was extremely good in the main. The roasted duck was utterly sublime and really well done here. Although quite fatty as Cantonese duck is, the flavour was gorgeous with light, crispy skin with wonderful juices. The chicken chow mein noodles (‘Number 23’) were also very nicely done as was the chueng fun – no gloopy feel on either, and very pleasant textures without feeling too oily.
On the flip side, the crispy fried beef I thought was a little lacking in something – it was certainly well made but I simply couldn’t taste much beef as the main flavour was fried batter and orange. I was also a little surprised to see the table sauces in branded bottles, mainly on an image basis, but perhaps this was to extend the feeling of a pub rather than a restaurant. Being brutally honest, if one was to do the blindfold test with soy sauces for instance, I think it would be a bold person to say which one was which immediately. The black sesame dumpling (which had a peanut and sugar flavour) was quite full on in buttery sugarness and richness but I did think it was a winner and was their recommended dessert so had to be done. A quick word on the drinks: I thought both beer cocktails were superb and the mandarin juice, although fairly steep at £4 for a very small glass, was utterly superb to enjoy.
Overall, this was a brilliant place to stumble across having been directed to the Saturday morning’s FT(!) and what was even nicer was that Alan Yau happened to be there, and was very nice of him to say hello when the opportunity presented itself. Lovely when that happens, and was equally nice to be able to say how much we all appreciated the work gone in to the place and how good the venue looked. I am only gutted that we were too full to not be able to enjoy the downstairs afterwards, and having beers, cocktails and grazing on bar snacks for an hour or two here, I think is one of my newest and strongest needs in the near future. Thank you Mr Yau and for your hospitality and really look forward to doing the awesome downstairs soon which, I think will become increasingly popular.
https://major-foodie.com/the-duck-rice-soho/
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- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at Franco Manca at Franco Manca
This is a high tempo, casual and fun place to have a pizza and I was always interested in their josper oven cooking at 500 degrees and making the pizza in very quick time. And they weren’t wrong(!), the pizzas ordered came after 6 minutes and that was with a full restaurant, (including the cold being braved by those sat the cold outside. Great... More
This is a high tempo, casual and fun place to have a pizza and I was always interested in their josper oven cooking at 500 degrees and making the pizza in very quick time. And they weren’t wrong(!), the pizzas ordered came after 6 minutes and that was with a full restaurant, (including the cold being braved by those sat the cold outside. Great pizzas where I almost preferred the crust to the actual pizza, but this venue would benefit from outdoor lamps to combat the cold.
I thought the ricotta, mushroom and ham (number 4) was the clear winner over the tomato, chorizo and mozzarella (number 6) as the mix of cheeses in number (4) combined with the differing textures were lovely. The (6) wasn’t bad but simply didn’t ring any loud bells of happiness compared to other pizzas had as an overall effect, but what I thought was excellent was the freshly made and baked sour dough, the crust of which can be dipped in the home made chili and garlic oils – these were both not too strong at all and were significantly better than any run of the mill dough balls and garlic butter or oil that you can get at other pizza venues. A glass of the house red went with these very well and all in all I was pleased with it and great to finally do. The base is not too thick and ultimately, it was nicely done with very smiley service that had wonderful Italian flare.
I thought the ricotta, mushroom and ham (number 4) was the clear winner over the tomato, chorizo and mozzarella (number 6) as the mix of cheeses in number (4) combined with the differing textures were lovely. The (6) wasn’t bad but simply didn’t ring any loud bells of happiness compared to other pizzas had as an overall effect, but what I thought was excellent was the freshly made and baked sour dough, the crust of which can be dipped in the home made chili and garlic oils – these were both not too strong at all and were significantly better than any run of the mill dough balls and garlic butter or oil that you can get at other pizza venues. A glass of the house red went with these very well and all in all I was pleased with it and great to finally do. The base is not too thick and ultimately, it was nicely done with very smiley service that had wonderful Italian flare.
Great for informal occasions, if you can bear a queuing wait in busy times as reservations are not taken. I do think this branch would benefit from some heating lamps for those dining under the umbrella outside as we approach the cold months as my only other observation, but ultimately I was pleased with the package here and is certainly a good confirmation to have for future drops ins which I will definitely do when needed in the mood for a fun, quick fix.
(Post note: on uploading my receipt I’ve also noticed / realised I didn’t tip as assumed the 12.5% was added(!) so that’s going to have to rectified on my next trip which it will be! Thank you to the staff for such fun service).
https://major-foodie.com/franco-manca-tottenham-court-road/
https://instagram.com/richardbagnold Less