Richard Bagnold

(Editor’s note: review written at the time of establishment holding 1 Michelin star)

When I first read about this restaurant it was labelled online as ‘The Box Tree Inn’ giving the impression it was a pub. Don’t be fooled if you see the same as it is most certainly is not a pub and jackets and smart trousers seem to be more appropriate choice when dining here (which thankfully I went safe on).

In terms of the menu itself, I thought the starter of salmon with tarragon and caper mayonnaise was absolutely delicious. A really nice combination I thought (not had salmon with tarragon before) and nice to see on the set menu but there was quite a strong punch of salt on this dish and anymore would have made it untenable. If I could have had one more thing it would have been slightly more caper mayonnaise as the small blobs had to be sparingly spread throughout and was gorgeous in itself.

The main of pork was stylishly designed as one would expect at this level with melt in the mouth pork but two surprises were just how sticky the jus was which I thought could be toned down a little and the obvious smudge in the presentation. The latter point is not the end of the world of course and to the local eateries the design of this dish is clearly in a league above however, this would actually be unforgivable in many 2 and certainly 3 Michelin starred venues which is one of the big differences between the types. The soufflé was one of the lightest I have had with gentle treatment of the blackberry and a pleasant hazelnut ice cream – no issues and plain, pleasant stuff.

Overall, this was a stylishly designed meal which exposed a couple of surprises for me which I would normally not expect at a 1 Michelin starred venue but the front of house was very warm and hospitable and the elegance of the place is not in question at all. There is actually one of the nicest tables in the front dining room opposite a log fire which, if wanted for Valentine’s day I imagine the earliest booking would be somewhere nearer 2020 owing to how nice this was (and I gather is much sought after to be specifically booked on normal Saturday nights).

My one gripe and critical observation with this venue is that I definitely got the sense that the majority of the staff were a little too aware of the venue’s status and although attentive, I struggled to see many of the staff smile with diners very much. My verdict on this is that The Box Tree is a fine place indeed but could afford to take itself less seriously and would benefit from a more jolly (rather than too serious) rapport.

Certainly some pleasant food provided here and the general elegance of the venue makes it a must for more notable occasions.

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An entirely fulfilling visit to newly promoted / Michelin starred Peels at Hampton Manor. One of the nicest take aways from this visit was having discovered how utterly in to food the management at all levels at Hampton Manor were. In their limited spare time they are usually exploring great eateries like myself in a mix of passion and research. As usual, I had no idea what to expect from this new visit and the following is what I found.

The pickled shallot, veal tartare and potted shrimp canapés by the log fire in the lounge were a nice start and the hospitality from the off was frankly A grade in all ways – warm, unobtrusive and attentive. The amuse bouche of potato puree with a pickled touch of potato puffs and powdered vinegar was one of the highlights and rather like very elaborate salt and vinegar crisps, this was a true delight and a much more interesting take than a normal velouté as an amuse bouche.

The pickled shallot, veal tartare and potted shrimp canapés by the log fire in the lounge were a nice start and the hospitality from the off was frankly A grade in all ways – warm, unobtrusive and attentive. The amuse bouche of potato puree with a pickled touch of potato puffs and powdered vinegar was one of the highlights and rather like very elaborate salt and vinegar crisps, this was a true delight and a much more interesting take than a normal velouté as an amuse bouche.

The butters including a wagyu dripping for the bread were so comforting and I was really impressed with not only the way the beetroot was complimented by the goat’s curd but was doubly complimented by such a good pairing of English white wine (Devenport) whose fruitiness came chiefly from the bacchus grape. This was actually one of the most immediately hand in glove food and wine pairings I have experienced in a while with the wine itself almost as beetrooty in subtleness as the dish itself – a perfect combination.

Then on to the mackerel with soy glaze, puffed rice and sesame seeds and this was also excellent. The sugary and aromatic twist was a lovely and fresh approach to the wonderfully oily fish which I happen to love. The wagyu interlude with parsley mayonnaise was a nice touch and had a cripsy exterior and juicy meat inside. I was actually sold on the set dinner menu mainly on the wagyu option alone and although this was a pleasure, it was on a similar threshold of going back to Business class if you have had the first class treatment of wagyu in Hong Kong and Macau (Bo innovation and Robuchon au Dome). Although this wagyu wasn’t as literally melt as per butter in comparison, the aforementioned are 3 Michelin starred near many of the 100% wagyu livestock and so is slightly unfair to expect this but it did have a superb medeira sauce to go with which I was wishing to finish with a spoon at the end.

Pre-dessert of buttermilk mousse with passionfruit again, like the amuse bouche was an original and pleasing offering and the deconstructed apple crumble with rum-soaked apple and douglas fir custard was interesting and enjoyable. Although I was originally concerned with the amount of components on the chocloate finish, I actually enjoyed getting a different ‘hit’ with each fork-full and each element, especially the salted caramel at the extremes were well done indeed. Initially I was surprised by the vinegar coated chocolate tuiles – they were among the lightest and delicate I have had but somehow the sweetened vinegar edge did seem to serve as softener to the richness of the other components quite well (for me, a touch less sharpness would have removed the shock factor more).

The meal was finished off by highly original teas and coffees worth a visit for in themselves and what was evident was how gelled as a team all the staff were at Hampton Manor. It was a total pleasure discussing food love issues at the end and the bond bewteen the staff was obvious to see all round which has nothing but a totally positive impact on the diners who I saw receiving the exact same engagement at dinner. I left with that undeniable skip and a jump feeling as a result all round and I would heartily recommend you go to gain the same feeling especially on a note-worthy occasion.

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This was a lovely meal, in more ways than one and I have an immediate electric current when thinking of the food on this visit. The Victorian country house itself has a wonderfully presented, log-fired lounge and the hospitality was right on the button throughout. A miscellaneous plus point was the electric car charger the hotel had in their car park which turned out to be pretty useful for the electric car I was lent to test drive for the weekend so this was a complete bonus! However, it was the food that did the talking here, served in a professional manner in an old fashioned dining room.

After some tailored canapés for each guest (to acommodate intolerances) in the lounge, the tasting menu was opted for, starting with an absolutely knock out Jerusalem artichoke velouté. This was nothing but sexy and superbly judged creaminess with a touch of crunch for texture. The heritage carrots were originally presented and the spiced carrot ice cream was a beautiful touch – gorgeous flavour, fun and another belter of a dish. Although I found the foie gras a little dense, the foie gras ice cream was another innovative and highly pleasurable addition that helped to cut through the weightiness of the ballotine with some well pitched sweetness from the supporting fruit pieces.

After some tailored canapés for each guest (to acommodate intolerances) in the lounge, the tasting menu was opted for, starting with an absolutely knock out Jerusalem artichoke velouté. This was nothing but sexy and superbly judged creaminess with a touch of crunch for texture. The heritage carrots were originally presented and the spiced carrot ice cream was a beautiful touch – gorgeous flavour, fun and another belter of a dish. Although I found the foie gras a little dense, the foie gras ice cream was another innovative and highly pleasurable addition that helped to cut through the weightiness of the ballotine with some well pitched sweetness from the supporting fruit pieces.

The mullet was fine, not on the same volcanic level of the first dishes but I did think the venison was perfectly succulent, and a real masterclass of supporting jus, creamed celeriac and chocolate ‘flowers’ that were thin, malleable and actually complimented the venison exceedingly well. Finally, a perfectly well done blackbury soufflé finished off the meal very well by being light and most importantly, not too sweet.

This was a quality meal here, no question and although the price tag of £92 for the 6 course tasting menu is definitely steeper than most 1 Michelin starred tasting menu prices, I put this down to the setting either being able to charge this or the overheads being greater as a result of the setting – probably a smidgen of both. Whilst I’m on that, I would also say this is definitely a couples or intimate venue as the space in the restaurant is quite snug and formal in its look at the same time. The shame of only being able to come at night is that I obviously couldn’t gain a proper look at the grounds in their glory within daylight however, I have no doubt the views are extremely good.

So quite a formal place, that is thankfully softened by the genuinely welcoming service but crucially, one that serves very good Michelin starred food. The lucky thing for me for this visit was what a truly lovely and nostaligic ocasion it was, above the pleasing touches that Hambleton Hall delivers.

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An impromtu need for a quick lunch out as was out and about led us to quickly nip in to The Gun to try the bar snacks as a change of speed. I’ve found this to be a very good way of doing lunch more cheaply than full blown out-dining and these offerings proved to get two people quite full on sharing three snacks alone. This was however, very good value to fill two people up completely for £20 at a very nice pub. As it gets colder, these lovely pubs with fireplaces will become more and more a haven.

The prize went to the lovely venison scotch eggs with spiced ketchup as these were fantastic – one of these on your own will actually fill you up quite nicely! The plaice goujons were agreeable as expected with home made tartare and mayonnaise sauces and the sausage roll was pleasant but quite a heavy offering – lovely pastry but I thought would have been better with a lesser mound of meat in proportion.

The prize went to the lovely venison scotch eggs with spiced ketchup as these were fantastic – one of these on your own will actually fill you up quite nicely! The plaice goujons were agreeable as expected with home made tartare and mayonnaise sauces and the sausage roll was pleasant but quite a heavy offering – lovely pastry but I thought would have been better with a lesser mound of meat in proportion.

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My second visit to this extremely pleasant Michelin starred pub in Channock showing its class again as an alluring and elegant pub. It’s clear to me now that it is highly suited for dinner inside after having a drink by the fire first and is ideal for lunches in the sun outside as well. I’ve yet to have the latter but, having been able to have this second visit in the summer, I was able to see just how good the pub was in this way in full daylight. Service was attentive throughout and the set menu options in the evening continuing to prove why this is a good option when the food was at the pleasing level it was. Certainly recommended if you are travelling nearby and I look forward to trying at lunch when I can.

Two of us shared the offerings made today. Pork paté bites were enjoyed in the bar by the fire perusing the menu and all options were looking good. The focaccia bread was again highly decent as an option. Orkney scallops and glazed chicken wing with cider and shallot with verjus dressing was well done with enough punch from the combination whilst the Brixham crab was nicely presented and perfectly ok. I opted for another starter in the form of the roasted foie gras served with pineapple which I have not had before and with the spiced brioche made me feel I was in safe hands again – not much to tip the balance in to greatness, but not anything at the same time to be risky in a bad way.

Two of us shared the offerings made today. Pork paté bites were enjoyed in the bar by the fire perusing the menu and all options were looking good. The focaccia bread was again highly decent as an option. Orkney scallops and glazed chicken wing with cider and shallot with verjus dressing was well done with enough punch from the combination whilst the Brixham crab was nicely presented and perfectly ok. I opted for another starter in the form of the roasted foie gras served with pineapple which I have not had before and with the spiced brioche made me feel I was in safe hands again – not much to tip the balance in to greatness, but not anything at the same time to be risky in a bad way.

The guinea fowl with carrot and spelt was pleasing and again, nothing to be unhappy about. Sides were opted for – spring beans and triple cooked chips as good options for £4 each and it was especially good of the staff to oblige a small portion of sauce hollandaise to go with the chips – completely excessive of me, but when it is done this well, I would be an idiot to not bother checking. As it turned out it was fluffy and airy as a version and although over in two seconds as a result, it was very nicely done (thank you to the management for obliging to my OCD on sauce).

We were actually too full for dessert but the chocolate truffle petit fours were customarily pleasant and it rounded of a safe and enjoyable meal once again, in very hospitable hands. I must get to doing the tasting menu here next time(!).

I have been meaning to get here for quite some time now and was lovely to finally get here and see the warm and homely setting inside. The downside with the winter months is that now we are within pitch black visability from 5pm onwards (as at time of writing). This obviously prevented me from seeing the gardens of Sir Charles Napier in their full, daylight glory.

For this visit, it was actually the set menu starter of slow cooked duck egg on feta with onion soup that was the absolute start of the show and I think the nicest soup I have ever had. Such luxurious components and even a fried sliver of onion on the top for texture. In fact it was so nice, my only niggle with this dish was that as the bowl was quite flat, the surprisingly reduced amount of soup was quite spread out as a result and got cold quite quickly. However, it was still an explosive flavour all round and the higlight of the visit.

The roasted foie gras was well done and pleasant as a result but simmered at just this level – those had at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and Le Gavroche will be exceedingly difficult to beat. The cheese souffle with smoked haddock was nicely done, but again, and sorry to go back to it, but it is difficult to top the cheese souffle at Le Gavroche. Dessert was crafted well and very Michelin starred in its presentation but with textures being the forte rather than the flavour.

This establishement is one of the institutions of the country owned and run by a family who soldier on in their obvious love of doing a fine job indeed. Their experience was needed on a couple of occasions for the staff that were either new or younger additions or with language barriers (which almost generated frustration) but that’s what experience on hand is for.

All in all this was very nice to trial on a quick pass by and confirms that coming back in the Summer is a definite must to get the full picture.

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This was an outstanding collection of flavours and offerings from start to finish. I chose on this occasion to simply do three starters to try and gain the most amount of things to see on the stomach room available especially when graced with such superb and golden yellow butter, using techniques from Sweden, milk from Guernsey and salt from Madagascar. A wonderful collection of dishes showing originality and sensation at the same time.

I was bowled over at the sight of the glorious chicken liver parfait glazed with beetroot which was an insteresting take on it, served with beautifully warmed and oiled sour dough. The happiness of seeing the meat fruit at 2 Michelin starred Dinner by Heston Blumenthal for the first time sprang immediately in to mind and this was a very close second in flavour. The crispy duck egg had a beatifully cripsy outside, luxurious yolk and wonderfully light parsley sauce. The roasted cauliflower and eel with truffled puree was also a stroke of genius – such a gentle and perfectly smoked quality with superb truffle puree.

I was bowled over at the sight of the glorious chicken liver parfait glazed with beetroot which was an insteresting take on it, served with beautifully warmed and oiled sour dough. The happiness of seeing the meat fruit at 2 Michelin starred Dinner by Heston Blumenthal for the first time sprang immediately in to mind and this was a very close second in flavour. The crispy duck egg had a beatifully cripsy outside, luxurious yolk and wonderfully light parsley sauce. The roasted cauliflower and eel with truffled puree was also a stroke of genius – such a gentle and perfectly smoked quality with superb truffle puree.

The meal was finished off with a wonderful and simple petit four of almond brittle and manjari chcoloate which was superb to try for the first time. This Madagascarn chocolate has a naturally citrus flavour and is essentially nature’s glorious jaffa cake flavour.

I loved every second of this meal and simply put, the elegance of style and awesome flavours combined makes this at the very height of cooking at 1 Michelin starred meals I have had. Utterly superb flavours and is engrained on the mind. Entirely pleasant speaking to the chead hef Adam Bennett afterwards who was kind enough to chat briefly during service.

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Within the suburbs of Bristol sits the steadfast and Michelin starred restaurant Wilks. It has a modern feel and the team appeared to have an eye for detail in their manner and clearly wished to make us feel welcome as well as give a good, opening impression. Overall, a reasonably priced tasting menu with a couple of moments that made me sing inside, but one or two moments that reduced that excitement.

We opted for the tasting menu which is a suitable option based on being roughly the same price as a full a la carte but with the bonus of seeing more dishes and not being lumbered with a large size of something if it turns out to not being your favourite. This is a good move I find sometimes but only if you are in the right mood for more smaller dishes over a lengthier sitting and you are not screaming out for food.

We opted for the tasting menu which is a suitable option based on being roughly the same price as a full a la carte but with the bonus of seeing more dishes and not being lumbered with a large size of something if it turns out to not being your favourite. This is a good move I find sometimes but only if you are in the right mood for more smaller dishes over a lengthier sitting and you are not screaming out for food.

First up, I thought the chestnut veloute amuse bouche was absolutely stunning on the taste buds. The cheese nibbles with olive crisp was also very good as an opening nibble and their mission of enticing the diner was well and truly achieved! The langoustine was fresh and clear followed by a beautifully done turbot and its interesting star anise puree. The sliver of ham around the turbot was a very nice touch as well.

Sadly, the bit I was most looking forward to (Beef Wellington) was not as great for me. I liked the deconstructed imagination but my fillet had some gristle and was difficult to hack away at. Although I liked the chopped and creamed mushroom within the pastry a lot, I just felt there was too much pastry in proportion to the meat. If there is to be this much pastry (which had a good texture), then certainly I would have like more jus. In fact, I did ask for some more, but even the top up left me thinking it would have been better to have left the small pot of jus at the table to add to preference as seemed a little sparse. I understand however, it is always tricky to cater to so many different palates. Perhaps a resonable view is somewhere in between the quantity of sauce given at Michelin starred Turners@69 (see photos) and here would have been more appropriate.

I have to say the creamed mash was absolutely wonderful. It actually came close to the holy grail status of Joel Robuchon’s mash served at his L’Atleiers and produced a high level of endorphins. A relatively simple pre-dessert was followed by a clever ‘glass’ cased lemon curd dessert. Visually this was great, but relcutantly I to have to say that I found the sugar casing quite thick and such, it basically welded my upper and lower jaw together when sat between the teeth. The curd and ice cream with meringue were lovely flavours though and is always fun smashing anything for a bit of drama.

Although my points above may appear quite critical, it was pleasant meal and will undoubtedly be the flagship place to eat of the surrounding suburban area. There were simply elements that prevented me from seeing it as a strong 1 Michelin starred venue. That said, I would go back and pay for an entire lunch meal purely to have their creamed mashed potato and amuse bouche again in a heartbeat – and I would do that!

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In the tucked away and almost silent hamlet of South Molton sits the Masons Arms – a 13th Century pub with its long-standing Michelin star included. The entrance is one of the nicest I have seen in that you are immediately greeted by the log fire and afforded wonderful, ready to eat olives whilst looking at the menu. The dining room in comparison is more modern and the meal was certainly filling, but unfortunately there was a lack of overall impact and flavour on some dishes. Noticeably warm hospitality at the same time.

A mix of set menu and a la carte dishes were had on this occasion and the results were comforting and reassuringly pleasant dishes. I thought the butter squash soup was done superbly and was great to see duck liver parfait available on the set menu as well. Bizarrely I opted for the vegetarian main on the set, as I thought I should try and do something healthy after my gastro tour of Devon and Cornwall – these mushroom pancakes turned out to be quite good actually and the duck confit and fillet steak, all giving a warm feeling. Equal skill was displayed for the desserts.

A mix of set menu and a la carte dishes were had on this occasion and the results were comforting and reassuringly pleasant dishes. I thought the butter squash soup was done superbly and was great to see duck liver parfait available on the set menu as well. Bizarrely I opted for the vegetarian main on the set, as I thought I should try and do something healthy after my gastro tour of Devon and Cornwall – these mushroom pancakes turned out to be quite good actually and the duck confit and fillet steak, all giving a warm feeling. Equal skill was displayed for the desserts.

In fact the whole meal was nicely done with my only observation being if one was served the meal without having seen the menu, it would have been a little tricky to tell (bar the fillet steak) which ones were on the set and which ones were the a la carte as there was not much in between them. The set lunch provided great value and overall it was all served with attentive and hospitable staff. It was a pleasure talking with the chef who bothered to come and talk to us in the bar afterwards. This is practically a lost art and rarely seen these days; the head chef’s experience at The Waterside Inn obviously still remembering the key, final touches that make a place stand out in this way and was a lovely finish to a comforting meal.

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As I was in the county region, it made absolutely no sense not to visit this newly promoted 1 Michelin starred venue in the seaside town of Ilfracombe. Thomas Carr in the kitchen and his brother running front of house have a small and welcoming restaurant showcasing some really quality dishes. The only menu available for the evening I was present was the tasting menu of 7 courses, but as this was £65 this was a very reasonable price and as I had spent nearly two hours driving there, I was more than happy to have a more substantial meal. This turned out to be hugley worth it, gaining some excellent and original things in the process.

My intolerance of molluscs led me to not having the scallop dish however, the price of the menu was adjusted accordingly (-£5) which, for the overall menu price seemed very reasonable. The opening crab with crab mayonnaise and thyme oil was sheer delight – so creamy and light at the same time. The hake was a stroke of genius with the tempura batter piece and gorgeously done fillet sitting on top of a white tomato emulsion with a clever use of the tomatoey and non-colouring pulp, making possible to have its white finish. That, with the bacon pieces and cherry tomato was a sensational dish – a shame it may be coming off the menu soon, so my advice is get there quick before it goes(!).

My intolerance of molluscs led me to not having the scallop dish however, the price of the menu was adjusted accordingly (-£5) which, for the overall menu price seemed very reasonable. The opening crab with crab mayonnaise and thyme oil was sheer delight – so creamy and light at the same time. The hake was a stroke of genius with the tempura batter piece and gorgeously done fillet sitting on top of a white tomato emulsion with a clever use of the tomatoey and non-colouring pulp, making possible to have its white finish. That, with the bacon pieces and cherry tomato was a sensational dish – a shame it may be coming off the menu soon, so my advice is get there quick before it goes(!).

The sea bass with light and its accompanying broth was very fresh and served with highly flavoursome squid pieces and the most succulent and juicy prawns I have ever had. The venison with its garlic mash was just lovely and the fritters, made in live time (not made hours earlier and kept in the fridge for mass production, resulting in a much more moist and luxurious centre) were gloriously moist. The recommended glass of Côtes Du Rhône went very well with the venison and came from a very reasonable wine list all round.

Finally, two desserts that were both a total pleasure. Although the frozen passion fruit parfait was quite hard (as one would expect) and tricky to control, it was nicely toned down (not too sweet) with meringue covering it. A lovely plain doughnut with superb cheese cake sauce completed that dish and was very good on the mouth and the eyes. The warm chocolate cake was another belter of a dish with its softened but lovely flavour and great design making it fun to chip away at its long stem in equal parts and enjoy a bit more than the usual slice.

It finished off what I can only describe as a superb meal that was a consistently strong 1 Michelin star meal throughout. I only had two niggles which were the (deliberately) charred toast beneath the crab which I personally thought wasn’t necessary and the honeycomb on the final dish being slightly darker than my palate enjoys but these are minor points in an otherwise great meal. At 3.5 hours it took longer than I would have expected, but given the choice of waiting longer for that result rather than lesser quality more quickly, I would obviously go with the former every time.

A cracking meal had here showing clear talent and some lovely flavours at the same time – well worth the drive if you live in the SW counties.

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Having been to Port Isaac to try the 2 Michelin starred Restaurant Nathan Outlaw, it turns out there is an upper and a lower town as Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen is a 10 minute stroll from the car park at the top of the cliff / hill, along the coastal path and right down at the bottom part where the actual beach and port is. Almost igloo like in style, the rustic restaurant with tapas style fish dishes I would actually say is on eof the gems of the country and I’m afriad you simply have to pop by if you are close to see why. day or night.

This is charming and lovely little place to visit, in its chocolate box setting of narrow pathways and alleys in between buildings and is perhaps even more charming than Padstow in its unspoilt way. Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen is an absolutely lovely little 1 Michelin starred ‘glow’ in this port area serving tapas style fish dishes in its brightly lit cave interior. One chef in the kitchen with two people serving all the covers (roughly 8 tables only) which I thought added to the charm. The food itself was clearly skilfully done and balanced in flavour (delicate batter for the cuttlefish croquettes with an interesting squid ink mayonnaise and pickled pepper to bring all to order) and I especially enjoyed the mackerel dip with the toast. The bread is worthy of a mention as this was also done extremely well and probably the biggest indicator of the accolade that this restaurant deserves.

This is charming and lovely little place to visit, in its chocolate box setting of narrow pathways and alleys in between buildings and is perhaps even more charming than Padstow in its unspoilt way. Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen is an absolutely lovely little 1 Michelin starred ‘glow’ in this port area serving tapas style fish dishes in its brightly lit cave interior. One chef in the kitchen with two people serving all the covers (roughly 8 tables only) which I thought added to the charm. The food itself was clearly skilfully done and balanced in flavour (delicate batter for the cuttlefish croquettes with an interesting squid ink mayonnaise and pickled pepper to bring all to order) and I especially enjoyed the mackerel dip with the toast. The bread is worthy of a mention as this was also done extremely well and probably the biggest indicator of the accolade that this restaurant deserves.

This was another lovely gem to come across and is also etched in the mind as a little pot of gold – you just have to simply go there to see why.

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