Peter Verey

Onjaku is a Tabelog Gold restaurant located just outside of Shizuoka . They are privy to some of the best seafood available , and today the sweetness was certainly evident . While no individual dish was anything but satisfying , the overall menu composition would have perhaps benefited from a dish or two with more fat or a stronger garnish as the subtly sweet produce was a little monochromatic.

But let’s talk about the leek ! I think this is the best leek I have had in my life , somehow deep fried with a crisp casing that slightly separates from the vegetable, the leek itself was absurdly tender and sweet . I have had great leeks from the hands of Rene Redzepi, Magnus Nillsson and Sato Hideaki - but this dish blew me away .

Horse mackerel and deep fried gobo
Squid and choy sum blossom
Baby aji
Gurnard and bamboo
Spanish mackerel and squid
Leek
Langoustine
Shiitake with langoustine roe
Hairtail and kale , sancho pepper
Hokkaido Wagyu rump , cabbage , lotus root and squid Mochi
Bamboo and Wakame rice
Tamago donburi
Strawberry Less

Do not possess enough superlatives for this one . A 33 year old chef is creating absolute magic here , cannot fault the execution, the concept of dishes, the vibe , the service , all exemplary . There is a reason that Yamazaki is booked solid for the next 12 months .
(So joining @jtfoodcation may be the best way to secure the experience)
Would donate an organ to come back ….

Clean and sweet start with Hamaguri clam broth, and sweet early season Bamboo. A super simple dish but had great harmony .

Steamed Mochi rice , tempura of smelt and lily bulb with caviar . The caviar serves as the salt for the tempura . Balanced !

Shirako is chargrilled and is a pontoon in the midst of white miso broth with sweet daikon, and romanesco .

The best Eel of my life followed , charred brilliantly, mild in flavour , with spring vegetables in white miso paste

Kinmedai was indeed splendid , grilled aggressively on the coals , the end result was stupefying, shattering skin and mi cuit flesh . Paired with cabbage in chicken dashi .

Snow crab was bursting with oceanic sweetness, the sauce made from crab roe and sake . Stunning .

The body of the crab was turned into a croquette with Kuruma ebi , the prawn also turned into the sauce .

Duck was perfectly cooked and paired with a European style black garlic sauce , light but powerful.

Rice course was a highlight and despite the group being full, we pretty much all had seconds . Served with Mountain wasabi blossoms which received a good burst of wok Hei , herring roe and the perfect egg yolk .

Dessert was another case of ingenuity , chestnut skin is ground then infused in milk before being reduced and turned into the creamiest of gelato. The flesh is mashed and turned into brûlée . Less

The Tokyo trip really sprang into top gear at Sushi Arai last night . Tabelog gold rated and while I’m far from a sushi expert , this seems absolutely appropriate.

The quirky photo policy limits photos to Tuna only , and the Maguro was certainly a highlight , great mouthfeel , distinct aroma , absolutely filled the palate .

Other highlights included -

Hamaguri clam steamed in its juices and served with olive oil
Scallop , Oba leaf and Nori roll
Kujira - Whale - only my second time with whale and this was incredible . Using the tail muscle of Icelandic whale , the texture and perfect fat content ratio was memorable .
Ankimo and pickled watermelon - this was requested by my host , an off menu dish that Chef Arai hasn’t made for several years , but he was happy to oblige us .
Saba - Spanish mackerel - so different to the Australian species of this fish, richer yet somehow sharper and less buttery

Many thanks to @jtfoodcation and @chi.champagnefeast for making it all happen .

It’s going to be a great week !! Less

A glimpse of Kyoto Kaiseki in Tokyo . Miyasaka is Michelin starred and Tablelog silver , the food is understated, well curated and overall satisfying .

Highlight was the rice course , the rice was “niebana” freshly cooked, so over the course of 10 minutes it transformed from al dente to “perfect” to a little over as it rested in the claypot , the differences in flavour were also pronounced as time went on .

Each broth or dashi served thru the meal were also excellent .

Boiled soft cod roe and Bean curd skin With Wild vegetables in White miso soup

Tuna and Flounder with Homemade kelp soy sauce

Steamed crab dumplings with rice cake in clear soup

Steamed SHOGOIN radish and “Tajimaguro” beef shabushabu style

Niebana steamed rice, Pickled vegetables, Dried young sardines,
Tuna and fried Red bream with lemon soy sauce

TSUBAKI-MOCHI Less

There’s a lot of change in the F&B offerings @wynn.macau this year but it’s great to have Wing Lei celebrating 15 straight years at the Michelin 2 star level . It’s a blessing to have such a quality venue where you can pop in for a 40 minute lunch and be completely satisfied .

The Ha Gao looked pristine and tasted just as good .
The carp fish balls in fish broth are probably not everyone’s favourite as the dish is unapologetically fish forward but i very much enjoy it .
Layered bean curd skin with fish paste in soy soup was new to me and i will certainly order again .
While bean curd skin was also the carrier for a nice traditional melange of crab meat and matsutake , can’t fault .

Suckling pig and toast was sandwiched with mango and cucumber , this traditional suckling pig preparation almost tasted western and gave nostalgic Porchetta sandwich vibes which brought me back to many a farmers market .

Chilled abalone marinated in sake lees rounded out the lunch , the abalone was super tender and almost creamy . Less

Anan Saigon was the first and only restaurant in Vietnam to be bestowed with a Michelin Star last year ( has been joined by a handful more this year ) .

Chef Peter Cuong Franklin has a varied CV which includes Caprice in HK, Nahm in Bangkok and Alinea (Chicago ) . His tasting menu seeks to reinterpret classic Vietnamese dishes in a fine dining context which is a tall task . I find these type of concept menus are very difficult to pull off and they pigeon hole chefs into a corner rather than really allowing their creativity to shine and just cook !
However this was a fun interpretation with a mix of traditional and molecular techniques , which resulted in a largely successful meal even if the soul of these dishes were sometimes missing .

Best courses were the Caviar Banh Nhung - street waffle filled with smoked salmon mousse , salmon roe , caviar and crème fraiche . Haven’t had salmon dip for years and honestly this was just delicious .

Canh Chua river prawn had delicious sweet and sour soup alongside well grilled prawn , clam, prawn mousse and okra . Fresh and lively this dish really sang .

The Bun Cha Bourdain was an homage to both Bourdain and Obama who had the OG dish in Hanoi , this was a terrific one bite dish but would have preferred a larger format version .

Grilled Saigon pigeon was served with betel leaf , sticky turmeric rice and excellent sticky pigeon jus . This was a great French Vietnamese riff of a dish . Less

Was in the mood to go hit up the wine list at @grandlisboahotel and landed on a lovely Chassagne-Montrachet at around 40% below current retail price .

The food hit the mark as well , Chicken with pomelo is a dish I first had here when visiting Macau 9 years ago and i still love it . The chicken skin is fried until it’s bronzed and crisp, the flesh is marinated in pomelo juice and quickly braised . It is jumbled together with in season Thai pomelo and is a lovely savoury, sour , refreshing dish .

Winter melon is hollowed out and filled with chicken broth and seafood , you scrape at the melon with every bite , nourishing and tasty .

Spotted garoupa is stir fried with a punchy XO sauce , the show is almost stolen by the accompanying snap peas , perfectly cooked and bursting with flavour.

The classic white and black sesame pudding rounded out a successful visit . Less

After 2 weeks barely leaving the house and binging on the beauty of the 2024 Paris Olympics , it’s nice to return to normal routine and hop across the border for a chilled lunch .

Man Wah @mo_hkg has held a Michelin star for 16 years now , recently refurbished it’s a beautiful room with a great view of HK harbour .

A large Hokkaido scallop cooked medium well rather than the en vogue mi-cuit , held up very well to a punchy porcini mushroom sauce . It’s Yunnan mushroom season now and I think they are outstanding so I would have been happy with mushrooms playing a larger role here but it was an excellent dish .

M9 Australian Wagyu was served with a fresh and floral black pepper sauce , with lily bulbs the main garnish .

Prior to this , a duo of excellent dim sum , Har Gao was fashioned into the shape of an edamame pod and the shrimp was paired with edamame and green chilli . Very satisfying .

Mushroom and crab dumpling was also very moorish .

The small sample of the dim sum skills was excellent and I would return just to make a solid dent in the 14 varietal dim sum menu . Less

A very memorable lunch and once again sometimes it only takes 1 dish , or in this case one food/ wine match to leave a long lasting impression.

Abalone liver sauce and chateau d’yquem is an absolutely astonishing pairing . The viscosity of both is similar , the clean linear abalone flavour absolutely swoons when in contact with the wine . This was truly one of the best matches I have ever had .

The aforementioned is the signature dish at the newly Michelin ⭐️ @sushikinetsu . Korean - Canadian chef Jay Myung is at the helm , he and his team previously ran Shinji by Kanesaka at the same venue pre-Covid .

Rumour is that a regular guest missed them so much that he took over ownership and brought back the old crew to resurrect the restaurant.

Sashimi and Otsumami dishes were excellent , a super sweet spot prawn , uni and caviar starter was a refreshing opening . This was followed by an excellent plump Hokkaido oyster .

Steamed Octopus and eggplant delivered in tenderness and flavour . Crab chawanmushi was perhaps a little pedestrian but the progression roared back with Ankimo stuffed into monaka wafer , equally cute and delicious . This was followed by excellent grilled Ayu and the aforementioned abalone .

Nigiri hit on all the seasonal fish of the moment .
The otoro was less fatty then I have had recently which was an interesting contrast .
Favourite pieces were the big reef squid with a little citrus and salt , and that tender yet sticky mouthfeel .
The Torigai and Uni were also excellent .

Didn’t realise until now that Suahi Kinetsu is open for lunch 5 days a week ( 11 services in all ) this is very welcome and dangerous news . Less

I will probably never have the privilege of dining at Sushi Saito in Tokyo but I have to say the HK outpost is very good . Maybe expectations are raised as it’s the sister shop to the legendary Tokyo institution but on face value the quality in HK is very high .

The lunch menu which seemingly caters to the finance bros who work in the area is a speedy affair , gone in less than 60 minutes .

A quartet of otsunami start the meal , the ankimo was of high quality and the grilled belt fish unctuous.

9 nigiri follow , loved the punch of the horse mackerel , the smoothness of the akami tuna and the uni was spectacular.

It’s a welcome development that Sushi Saito seems to be much easier to book these days with their reservation phone line now open every day rather than 1 day a month .

Menu below

Uni , ikura , yam and ice plant
Kegani and Karasumi
Ankimo
Tachiuo

Hirame
Shima Aji
Aji
Maguro trio
Uni
Anago
Maguro hand roll Less