Kristian Mortensen

Noma

Right – Noma. Noma is an institution. Its frightful and awe inspiring to say Noma. Noma is the mountain which the rest of the world is in the shadow of. Rene Redzepi is known on the lines of a rock star.
Its accolades many– best restaurant in the world 4 times, and since 2019 its been in the top ten, ten times since 2008 (maybe not there because it moved and was closed in 2017 and 2018) And two Michelin stars since 2008 and the whole world is wondering why it doesn’t have three
Its been on my to do list since I started going to expensive restaurants.
So, it is kind of unfair, everything, and I mean everything Noma could do that day would be scrutinized and honestly the expectations was sky high.
Arriving a bit to early, we were well received by four waiters – which would be a theme that evening, the army of (more or less) helpful hands. We were placed in the garden with a (natural fermented – another theme for the evening) cider. Nice an easy and pleasant to sit and take in the early evening air, and just mentally prepare for the experience.
We were eventually lead though the garden by a new waiter though the garden and to the restaurant doors, receiving a short introduction to the place.
We had the mandatory at the door pictures.
Opening the doors in the restaurant we were shocked to be received by even more waiters. Overwhelmingly many waiters. To many waiters – I might as well get this of my chest, the evening was a sensational experience for the senses, and confusingly well meaning service. At the other two stars I have been at, the service was way better, fewer but more personal waiters. It lead to confusion at the end of the meal where one waiter said there would me more desserts then there were. That’s just no good – the best restaurant in the world should have the best service as well. That was not worth three Michelin stars, barely two. Now that’s out of the way. That have buggered me.
The placing of Noma is very cleaver, a peace of nature in the middle of Copenhagen. We were seated with a view to the garden and lakes. It was beautiful, so was the restaurant. Very relaxing and just breathtakingly beautiful. The whole atmosphere and feel of the place is.. not a finger can be put on that.
We opted for the winemenu – because why the hell not? The theme was natural fermented wines, and bordering funky at the end, daring but perfect. We have experienced quite a few Italian natural wines other places, and even at Noma they are present, and it works. Nothing to say about that – maybe that there was plenty, we ended up with quite a few glasses of wine at the end, and the mood was lifted maybe a few feet to high, but on the other hand I could just have said no, so that is not on Noma.
The Food – that was quite a journey, a well tasting fresh joyney. Starting with the flowpot with beetroot soup was good. A bit smokey and had that fermentation umami – and it worked.
Fresh Cauliflower with waffle and a kind of miso was fresh and good. The miso/umami/mushroom extract was a theme for the evening, and that part of the journey was very tastefull. Red peber with fat tasted of meat.

WILL UPDATE MORE – NOT DONE.
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Menu below
Søllerød kro is one of the institutions of the danish kitchen. It have held a Michelin Star on and off since 1988 – so its one of the longest lived restaurants in Denmark that have had (and have) a Michelin star (Formel B is the one who have held a star continuously the longest)
Classical fine dinning in a classical danish inn. Headchef Brian Mark Hansen have been a part of the inn since 2007 (with a brief Head Chef job at Christiansholm castle in 2 years between 2011 to 2013)
We were there for my wifes birthday. It was an absolut delight, even if there was no wine since I was driving. Specially the Kæmpe Eskimo have been impressive afterwards.
Søllerød inspiration

Vichyssoise, smoked scallops, parsley & fried potatoes
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Cod, caramelized cauliflower, yuzu, hazelnuts & crispy pork
Octopus, celeriac, spruce bark & truffle
Duck hearts, fermented mushrooms, chestnut & brioche
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Beef, beetroot, blackberries, red wine & aromatic pepper
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“Kæmpe Eskimo” Cru Udzungwa Tanzania 70% with blackcurrant & cream parfait

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Substans was a very pleasant experience. I was attending a music festival in Aarhus, and I timed my arrival with a lunch at Substans. A walk in, I was more or less alone in the room, they had a festival menu for the festival, which I remember as being quite affordable. I got three glasses of wine which was nice (although I cannot remember neither where or types of wine).
At the time, Substans was situated in Frederiksgade and had a michelin star (it moved to Aarhus Iceland and lost the star in the move, and since it was in lock-down, they have not had the chance to regain the star) Opened in 2005, they received a star in 2015 and held it to 2019.
I really loved that they were local people serving and preparing the food, the local very charming dialect was part of the pleasant experience.
I would love to try them again at their new place
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