There are good restaurants, there is great restaurants, and sometimes there is extraordinary experiences.
Jordnær is the latter.
The last years I have followed the restaurant scene in Copenhagen quite closely, getting familiar with names, chains, and paper reviews. And the place in Gentofte, Jordnær, made a stir quite quickly, and it made my to-do list quick as well. It open in 2017 and already ten month after opening it received the first star. Prices for the menu quickly became in the very expensive end and when they received their second star in February of 2020, I immediately booked a table for the following month.
I have got a new Job and we wanted to celebrate, so we splashed out and went all in. Eric Kragh Vildgaard is brother to Torsten Vildgaard, who have been a big part of NOMAs success and had his own Studio (which we tried as well when he was there, and it was amazing). Eric have been in several kitchens before starting Jordnær, among other NOMA.
I had read up quite a lot on the experience, so we had a preconception of what was going to happen, and that preconception quickly disappeared.
Jordnær is situated in the humblest surroundings, a three-star hotel in the ARP Hansen chain. And you are meet with a typical hotel reception (coca cola vending machine and lifestyle magazine on the sofa table on the reception).
You are meet by staff from the restaurant and lead into the more fine-dinning room that is the restaurant. The wife of the power couple that leads the restaurant Tina Kragh Vildgaard is responsible for front of house. And what a service. You could not put a finger on that experience. Even when I accidently dropped the fried and battered leaf of herb it was exchanged faster from the kitchen then you could blink your eye.
Perfect sommelier and very good interior design. White tablecloth and dark heavy drapes made the perfect frame for this experience.
The wine tasting had elements of “naturale” wine flavors (we got an amazing champagne we bought at Rosforth & Rosforth afterwards – Charles Dufour Bistrøtage I don’t remember the vintage) – perfect wines, mostly variation of white – and I think one red from a cooler climate (cant remember it)
The food – oh my god the food – it was out of this world. Mostly centered around shellfish and with a lot of broth, foams, liquids and generous amounts of caviar. technically it seemed to have a lot from the Japanese kitchen. The balance was perfect, so was the plating’s. Small pieces of art, in perfect patterns. No meat – I think it’s an ethical decision. The meat was not missed either.
The whole experience was amazing. But a few dishes I remember now and stood out. There was the signature dish of the raw pawns with horseradish and dill. The lobster, grape and fermented asparagus was surprising and amazing.
We booked the table right after they received their second star, and the menu was not changed or pricing changed (it is today) – it was one of the most expensive meals I have had, and it was worth every kroner. I will go here again.