Richard Bagnold

Finally I get to this restaurant in order to increase the vegetarian database and after navigating through the walkways of the Lincoln Inn Old Buildings, I was delighted at the charming interior of this rather tucked away restaurant. Overall this was a finely done meal, sitting comfortably within fine cuisine for craftsmanship and an extremely good advert for vegetarian food but with unfortunate setbacks making the grade lower than it could be.

I was entertained with some quinoa and soy bean white bread, cherry and carrot sour dough and caramelised lemon butter. The breads were fine and the butter perfectly soft but I struggled to enjoy the sweetness of the butter which didn’t come across well – caramelised onion or smoked savoury notes for the butter may have been better here.

I was entertained with some quinoa and soy bean white bread, cherry and carrot sour dough and caramelised lemon butter. The breads were fine and the butter perfectly soft but I struggled to enjoy the sweetness of the butter which didn’t come across well – caramelised onion or smoked savoury notes for the butter may have been better here.

I was in a relative rush and so opted for the set lunch menu. Firstly, the pea soup starter was absolutely lovely. The pea sponge and crushed pea salsa added texture well and the mint was beautifully balanced with a brilliant peanut marshmallow – this was a very well done dish. For the main, the melted high cross cheese in breadcrumbs and charred spring onions with smoked onion puree was also delicious; this really was lovely as well but was just dissapointing to have such a small portion size for a main course and I felt a little shortchanged here.

Finally, the whipped dougnut was cleverly done and the crispy custard was another creative and pleasing addition. A pleasing flavour on this dish but with quite a sticky texture for the most part and the crispness of the custard (which was presumably designed mainly for adding another texture to the softness of the other components) literally disintegrated in the mouth and so the actual point of the crispness was lost and had more effect visually than in substance. Several wine options by the glass were available and the most expensive (glass of Sancerre) that I had with the meal was agreeable.

Unrelated to flavours, the negatives of this experience for me, were that although the service was polished and professional, I detected high levels of self-assurance in the staff at the same time, reflected in equally self-confident price tags of the dishes / menu. I simply believe this to be far too expensive for what was delivered when the ingredients were clearly not as expensive as many meats that Michelin starred restaurants I have been to, have used on their set menus which will be more expensive. If the portion sizes were more generous at Vanilla Black I believe that would be a simple way to even the balance more – as it is, it is overpriced compared to other options.

However, if cost was not an issue, I would happily eat this kind of cooking for a year without meat and not blink an eye when it is this well done but with dissapointing surprises on the opening nibbles and dessert and overall portion size, the latter being an issue of design. In the main, this is a high end vegetarian option to have in London. Vegans are advised to inform the restaurant in advance.

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My third visit to this wonderful, little place. Owing to a heat wave, most customers were seemingly in the sun on this Saturday afternoon however, not a problem at all for us when the air con was in full blast at Social Eating House. Another lovely set menu was experienced on this occasion with creative and lively designs with good flavours and balanced textures but with aspects that had a jab to the kidneys as well…

A couple of points on this visit that were unfortunately not as sharp compared with previous visits: the social mule cocktail was highly bitter which we thought could have done with a verbal warning, a rather notable bone was in my fine trout and the marshmallow with the strawberry dessert was exceedingly sticky and almost glued to the plate and any cutlery that touched it. The flavours were still ok on that dessert but it was difficult to deal with and slighlty unenjoyable as a result. Miscellaneously, I would also be wary of sitting too close to the bar if you wish to be away from noise as you will find yourself needing to pause in between conversations when the cocktails are being prepared.

A couple of points on this visit that were unfortunately not as sharp compared with previous visits: the social mule cocktail was highly bitter which we thought could have done with a verbal warning, a rather notable bone was in my fine trout and the marshmallow with the strawberry dessert was exceedingly sticky and almost glued to the plate and any cutlery that touched it. The flavours were still ok on that dessert but it was difficult to deal with and slighlty unenjoyable as a result. Miscellaneously, I would also be wary of sitting too close to the bar if you wish to be away from noise as you will find yourself needing to pause in between conversations when the cocktails are being prepared.

I got a slight sense on this visit that the full staff compliment was a little dissapointed at the day’s ‘customer catch’ and it seemed to show in a slightly less warm (than normal) service – only slightly, but my nose did pick this up. Otherwise, this and the above points are minor points that can only be spotted when the general product is very high. Another very pretty and flavoursome set menu lunch in general and very good value for £34 with opening cocktail.

The set menu was had on this occasion between the three of us with the exception of the duck fat chips and duck egg starter which was treated in the same was as Heston’s Meat Fruit at Dinner in that amuse bouches are not done at either place, so I preferred to beef it up by treating their star dish as the amuse bouche to share. The star of the show foodwise on the set menu for this visit was the pollock with a very subtle soy and giner sauce as well as the supporting puree and jus to accompany the pork main. The ham pasta and salmon starters were polished and totally pleasing. Both desserts from the set menu were delicately done and the a’la carte dessert of hot white chocolate, vanilla crumble and rhubarb was truly wonderful.

The value for money here is an absolute given with the 3 course set menu being £23 and 2 course set menu £19 – exceedingly good on this front. The Jason Atherton choice of Sauvingnon Blanc was priced at £39 and for the pleasing effect was also very satisfying for value for money as well – bravo all round to Social Eating House.

Another belter of a visit and I would actually say that this is the text book 1 Michelin starred venue that would make anyone who is either intimidated by Michelin starred restaurants, or views them as a solely expensive affair, to re-evaluate this thinking, as frankly Social Eating House ticks numerous boxes that fashionable and over priced venues do not.

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At time of writing this is the only 1 Michelin starred restaurant in Cambridge and although I was surprised by the exterior location opposite a Travelodge hotel and leisure park complete with bowling alley and cinema, this was definitely a highly notable meal. It is in fact, the best value Michelin starred meal I have had from the whole collection with two courses at £19 for lunch on the set menu that included nibbles, an amuse bouche and a pre-dessert. As I have always maintained, these little, extra treats go a long way and do so because it heightens the feeling of the occasion.

But did it taste good? Well, the squid ink crisps with smoked cod roe were better than expected and the fried cheese bites were always going to be a safe bet and were nice. I did have a slightly mixed experience with the bread. Both variants were beautifully warm to the touch and the sage bread was frankly divine, but strangely it had almost a teaspoon of flour at the bottom of the plate – very good confirmation of being freshly prepared, but strange for a Michelin starred restaruant to allow so much remaining on the plate when served.

But did it taste good? Well, the squid ink crisps with smoked cod roe were better than expected and the fried cheese bites were always going to be a safe bet and were nice. I did have a slightly mixed experience with the bread. Both variants were beautifully warm to the touch and the sage bread was frankly divine, but strangely it had almost a teaspoon of flour at the bottom of the plate – very good confirmation of being freshly prepared, but strange for a Michelin starred restaruant to allow so much remaining on the plate when served.

The amuse bouche of pea sorbet and cheese with wonderfully subtle garlic was superb and the cauliflower velouté was pleasing enough, made all the better with the picked cauliflower with sheep’s cheese. The cod with caviar sauce was highly gratifying and it was lovely to have a pre-dessert however grapefruit is not my favourite and I had just a little bit too much zing from this attacking the corners of my mouth – interesting but not my favourite part of the meal.

The strawberry trifle was always going to be tried and thought was lovely, but with cream that was quite subtle and the bit which I was looking forward to the most (the custard) was set too hard for expectation and dashed my hopes of this dish. It was nice to have petit fours but, were not on the level as the salted caramel truffles at Tredwell’s for example. However, these were minor blemishes in an overall very good show.

Driving prevented any wine to be taken however, the bottom line is that this is an outstanding value for money option (set menu lunch) with a high quality yield. Bar a couple of elements, I was extremely pleased to have eaten here and walked away already planning in my mind when I could come back.

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I managed to get to the bar of Sosharu on a chance walk by and had enough time to try a couple of snacks. The wagyu salami was customarily lovely with a refreshing kick from the mustard and the tonkatsu sandwich was absolutely lovely. The bulldog sauce was a Japanese curry sauce for the breaded pork (tonkatsu) sandwich to be dipped in to which turned out to be a nice touch but the crunch within the soft bread of the sandwich was absolutely delightful. It actually reminded me a little of the winning texture of the sandwiches at The Fat Duck and that is a fairly hefty connection. The negroni cocktail wasn’t too bad either.

The bar itself is an underground enclosed area which has similar design to Social Eating House (unsurprising as another Jason Atherton venue). It is not the largest bar for popping in to for a bespoke visit, but for a holding area of the restaurant, it is a superb asset to have and not many other restaurants have this as an add on.

On to the more important parts however, and for this visit, two set menus were had as well as a la carte dishes for the three of us. As a headline, I thought the food overall was a very good show, but not without a few ups and downs. Dealing with the good first, I thought the creation and style of the dishes was exciting and there is definitely theatre here – those opting for the scallion tobiko starter gain their own chilli mayonnaise dispenser bottle, the wagyu beef dish needs to be cooked at the table with a clever, Japanese compact heater kit and one can also enjoy mixing certain dishes at the table adding soy from a dinky soy container as required all adding to the fun of eating out.

Sticking with the positive, I thought the simple Asian pear and avocado salad was marvellous with its creamy but light dressing and Asian pear chunks that were probably the sweetest I have ever tasted. My tuna scallion tobiko was great in its crunchy and light delicacy, backed up with the fun of the chilli mayonnaise squirting that could be added as necessary (lots in my case) and the sea bream sashimi with fried potato was equally lovely. The wagyu, as mentioned, was playful and even the slivers that you gain for this dish for £25 are only a few mouthfuls, it was an interesting way to enjoy the unmistakable richness of the beef. I foolishly didn’t ask whether the beef had actually come from Japan, but one would hope so (worth asking because as long as the bull is wagyu, the offspring will qualify as wagyu regardless of the breed of the mother, which is why you see more of it available in supermarkets these days).

Other aspects of the meal were definitely interesting but either more like a rollercoaster ride or simply not very remarkable. Green tea was ordered at the start of the meal and both myself and another at the table really did not like it very much surprisingly and a little warning that their house green tea, taken from the roots of the plant rather than the leaves is almost nothing like conventional green / Jasmine tea as this had a strong, earthy peaty flavour. I very rarely ask for things to be replaced but was moved to on this occasion for both of us and thankfully the management was very kind to provide something else as a result which was slightly sweeter tea made with cherry extract (a little better). The scallops with frozen stock inside were also a huge surprise to my fellow diners who were not bluffing in their reaction, which was one of the most visual I’ve ever seen, looking as if a fire cracker had gone off close to their face as soon as they popped it in their mouths. As I need to avoid scallops, I left this to them but they said it was like having an immediately fresh and salty yet strangely exhilarating ice cream headache. Of the two diners, one said they would have it again.

The chicken and the pork on the set menu were nice to haves but simply sat at the pleasant level. They were certainly fine to eat, but the breadcrumbs for the chicken didn’t seem to offer much herby or distinct flavour. Everyone also agreed that the pork, although nice and with a fair curry sauce, would have been more of a pleasure if the batter crisp was not so thick and the succulent and fatty pork was perhaps thinner (easier to get through).

But, to finish on a high, where everyone was absolutely unanimous, was how fantastic the strawberry dessert was with the accompanying jar of strawberry sauce which was surprisingly on the set menu (perhaps to showcase itself more easily). This was possibly the most delightful version of iced strawberry had. The shavings of ice that were covered in wonderful strawberry ice cream, wild strawberries and as much of the sauce as you wanted to throw on to it I thought was easily a 1 Michelin starred as a dish – this was clear as a bell and obvious. The banana, peanut and syrup sponge dessert was also another highlight of the meal in how all the very different and separate components were not only very good individually, matched superbly when all put together.

Lastly I should mention that in tieing up with the no expense spared theme, even the trip to the toilet stands out for this visit which I can’t leave out. All toilets here have been designed very much to Japanese specifications in that men and women all have their own, separate cubicle, having Japanese music playing in each and are all electrically operated. I had to take pictures of this as it was rather amusing, and one can select how much oscillation you wish your toilet seat to have as well as electronically positioning it whilst all seats seem to be heated regardless. I got a bit excited and the gadgets to operate with this and was almost stuck when trying to work out how to flush however, I can report this is a metal button behind the electronically operated lid on the wall(!).

Overall, I thought this was a fun and impressively aesthetic restaurant with some wonderful dishes but also some surprises of mixed degrees in other ways. I think the £29.50 for the set lunch was superb value and this was its biggest forte on this visit. The downstairs bar was unfortunately closed but hopefully when next passing next time it will be when it is open and I will drop in to enjoy something refreshingly different – something I have absolutely no doubt will be the case.

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Darbaar opened in November 2015 by Chef Abdul Yassen (formerly of The Cinnamon Club) and on entering I was immediately taken by the scale of the restaurant from the private dining room to the corporate dining room and to the main dining room. The huge, open kitchen in the main dining room allows the aromas of the cooking to be fully engrossed by diners and serves as a pleasant view as well. Some good offerings here, including the best chai tea I have ever had, all served in an impressive environment.

The set Dawaat menu was tried on this occasion and I have to say I was pleasantly surprised. The popadom variants were broken up in to manageable pieces and served with home made pepper dip, chick pea mix and mango chutney which were all enjoyable. The mango chutney was very sticky as a first impression but tasted absolutely lovely. The potato stuffed samosas were also broken up to make more manageble to share and with the green spices this was indeed crunchy, spicy and good. The seekh kebab was quite punchy in spice levels but not overpoweringly so and was juicy at the same time. The tandoori oven cooked salmon with dill was a lovely flavour (although I would have preferred it being slightly more pink the middle).

The set Dawaat menu was tried on this occasion and I have to say I was pleasantly surprised. The popadom variants were broken up in to manageable pieces and served with home made pepper dip, chick pea mix and mango chutney which were all enjoyable. The mango chutney was very sticky as a first impression but tasted absolutely lovely. The potato stuffed samosas were also broken up to make more manageble to share and with the green spices this was indeed crunchy, spicy and good. The seekh kebab was quite punchy in spice levels but not overpoweringly so and was juicy at the same time. The tandoori oven cooked salmon with dill was a lovely flavour (although I would have preferred it being slightly more pink the middle).

The spiced shrimp was juicy and nicely done in being not too overpowering and the kadhai sauce was a pleasure as well (pepper based vegetable mix). But the star of the show was the gorgeously succulent chicken (tandoori oven baked to retain as many juices as possible) and it’s marvellous butter chicken sauce. This was actually better than numerous dishes I have had in 1 Michelin starred Indian restaurants and it was very nice to see a comforting classic dish on the menu (and set menu at that). The dahl was luxurious enough and the naan breads light enough as well to mop remaining elements up.

Normally I don’t like carrrot cake as I find it either too dry and spongey or tasteless however, this carrot cake was actually very good and the fig helped to add moisture as well as being a welcome sight. I didn’t think it was possible, but the chai tea served in shot glasses at the end were even better than those I have had at Dishoom and these were spectacular.

If you are anywhere near Darbaar I would seriously consider going in to try a chai tea here based on this strength alone – the visit will also enable having access to their incredible toilets that are heated and offer massages at the same time with suprising results(!). The overall exerience of the food, in summary, was a strong performance as there really weren’t many things I didn’t like and basically I look forward to being able to come back to try some other menu choices as I have a good deal of confidence in this venue based on this visit…. and I will be sure to grab another chai tea when next in!

Press review.

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My second visit to this venue and the headline is that based on these two visits, this is a strong 1 Michelin starred venue by Tom Sellers. There is innovation and daring in choice of aesthetics and combinations of ingredients and I was very glad to be doing the full story menu this time.

It is certainly not a short affair as the snacks alone lasted an hour and was great to have so many of them, but the bottom line is I would ensure you have time on your hands to enjoy this venue and not be under time constraints. Our lunch lasted roughly four hours, but as usual, with the creativity of dishes and in finest company, frankly it all went too quickly again. The full menu was priced at £80 for lunch and £110 at dinner with a further three courses, so again, based on the experience, the 21 courses we had in total (including snacks as separate courses) for the full menu at lunch was a sufficient enough package and I think you get more for your buck therefore over an extended luncheon.

There were really some genuinely fine moments during this meal and a very good strike rate at that. The snacks of Storeos of squid ink biscuit, smoked eel mousse and vinegar powder were marvellous as were the black pudding with compressed pineapple. Visual fanfare was provided with the razor clams which unfortunately I could not have due to intolerances but I was given a lovely flower pot of avacado puree with pickled beetroot and shallot crisps which was a delightful replacement.

The course of mashed potato was a real gem – light, fluffy, buttery but not too buttery with the interesting addition of charcoal oil was absolutely fabulous. The steak tartare within an apple was a £20 suppliment course and although quite expensive, it was exceedingly good and scraping the bottom of the apple to have with elements of it I thought was a very nice touch and added a lovely element of sweet moisture to the meat. I forgot how nice the almond and dill dessert combination was and the new pink candyfloss with custard icecram in the centre was fun and lovely as well.

All in all this was superb meal and I was not bloated on leaving at all in spite of 21 courses. There were no real low moments of food, only ones that I ovbiously enjoyed to the max in comparison to the others that all went down well regardless. The only real aspect of this meal that was a negative was within the service – the majority of those on were very good and warm but one in particular clearly wished to spend the least time explaining dishes and finish her ‘bit’ and walk away as quickly as possible (with a clear reluctance to engage). It wasn’t the end of the world, but was quite cold, came across as bordering on rude and dented the experience.

Having said that, this was a fabulous meal all round with a great collection of beers and cocktails to choose from to accompany the tasting menu with very well pitched wines as well. On second visit to Story, this confirms for me how strong a 1 Michelin starred venue in London this is with aspects being on 2 Micheln stared level and a great option to do when you have plenty of time on your hands or a day off for a food treat.

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My second visit to Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester and was very good to get back in. Jean Phillip Blondet is now at the healm and steering the iconic hotel’s flag ship restaurant.

There is no doubt that you are in immaculate hands here and the young, new team in charge showed world class proffesionalism and levels of service at the very top it can be with the added importance of beinggenuinely warm – a difficult one to pull off at the same time. It was also interesting to learn that should you go for the bespoke and semi-private ‘Table Lumière’ dining area, everyone will get the choice of which crockery they would like their food served on. Memories of Basil Fawlty asking Mr Leeman, “Mahogany, Teak Rosewood…?” came straight in to mind here as, at this restaurant you do actually have the choice of what you would like your food served on(!).

The amuse bouche of (new) crisp ravioli pieces and familiar gruyere cheese puffs were welcome as they always are and in general, there were aspects of the meal that appeared to be quite similar to my last visit 6 years ago. Although this was the case visually, the formage frei dip was less subtle than last time (better) and combined with the salted butter on the bacon bread was pleasant. The langoustine was beautifully sweet and the duck utterly juicy and pleasant. Although I had no particular firework moments during the meal, the care and attention to detail was undeniable with exceedingly refined ingredients. The classic rum baba was far better than I recall and I forgot how gorgeous this is in presentation and squidgy, spongey loveliness with the addition of perfectly whipped and light vanilla cream.

I thought the wine selection from the sommelier on this occasion was superb and a new addition was seeing Alain Ducasse’s own champagne (have not seen this before in a restaurant). Also of note was the Montrachet having a fabulous creamyness yet freshness at the same time. One last aspect that was a clear change from the first visit was the addition of a trolley of herbs wheeled to the table for tea selection. I chose peppermint and pine and these were cut and brewed at the table and then served when prepared. This was actually the stand out moment of the meal in my memory and although some others out there might do this I thought this was a genius stroke which I have not experienced before – a brilliant touch.

When comparing the photos of the food on this occasion and of 6 years ago there is not a huge deal of difference visually but I had a couple of better moments on my recent visit. Although it does not affect the overall / specific food grade, the hospitality on this occasion was faultless throughout as was the highest levels I think it possibly can be with truly graceful service. The food here is 100% elegance and Knightsbridge on a plate, but the award of 3 Michelin stars remaining a very generous grade when I compare to the others I have been to.

The cream was far too subtle for my taste, to the effect that both of us present had to have another scoop in a desperate attempt to get more flavour, forgetting this would have absolutely no effect. The dishes were well cooked naturally and the presentation had finesse, but the only course that seemed to have a wonderful moment was the truffle macaroni with lobster and that was the macaroni giving most of the impact.

The beef was done perfectly but the total absence of any sauce, less a drizzle of spiced oil on the large accompanying leaf with foie gras slice, made me actually saddened. Although I have an insatiable urge for fine sauces with my dishes, fillet steak is frankly one such dish I refuse to believe should not have anything with it unless it is wagyu or kobe beef where the marbelling will happily do all the talking. It was the first time in my life I nearly asked the waiter if the kitchen could bring something, anything, to deal with the issue but the better angel on my shoulder prevented me from doing so which would have practically been an insult to Jocelyn, the Head Chef. As final thoughts to balance, the consommé was ultra clear and the true skill of this was easy to see and taste as was the turbot which was expertly prepared and presented.

The main after thoughts of this visit was that as it was the signature tasting menu I was, a little disappointed. A lovely occasion and a privilege of course, however in terms of a comparison of the food, I was unable to see how it differed from most of the 2 and in some cases even some 1 Michelin starred eateries I have visited. It will need to be done again to give a second opinion as maybe things have evolved but there is work to be done on this one to make me more enthused about the food.

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I am now not a stranger to The Punch Bowl in Crosthwaite however, this was a special visit in the circumstances it was and the fact that this meal was followed by a stay over at the Inn itself. The food on this occasion included old classics such as the cheese soufflé and the sirloin steak with wonderful garlic butter as the sauce, which was actually a welcome change from my usual vat of béarnaise sauce to accompany any steak that I have.

The black pudding with egg and chutney was very pleasant and even though the pork crackling ‘straw’ was too hard in places to enjoy, it was well done and the presentation of the potato rösti with celeriac and apple and slow cooked egg was bordering on 1 Michelin starred quality. The steak tartare was also prepared with a slow cooked egg which I thought was a very good touch as well and although a touch more gherkin, capers and shallots to filet steak seemed to be in the mix, I still enjoyed the overall result a lot.

The black pudding with egg and chutney was very pleasant and even though the pork crackling ‘straw’ was too hard in places to enjoy, it was well done and the presentation of the potato rösti with celeriac and apple and slow cooked egg was bordering on 1 Michelin starred quality. The steak tartare was also prepared with a slow cooked egg which I thought was a very good touch as well and although a touch more gherkin, capers and shallots to filet steak seemed to be in the mix, I still enjoyed the overall result a lot.

The lovely touch with the chips here was the fact that they are cooked in beef dripping as a pleasant change for a hint of a more savoury flavour and the vanilla Panna cotta with honeycomb was a belter of a dessert – perfect consistency with the Panna cotta and lovely elements coming together to boost the interest of a classic.

It’s worth mentioning as well that the rooms here are utterly delightful. It doesn’t affect the food grade given, however, ever since seeing this pub for the first time years ago, I have always wanted to stay. I can now confirm that the gorgeously deep bath, rain shower, goose down pillows and wonderful grade mattresses and general rustic luxury design in the rooms here added to a superb stay with very good service.

The style and care taken over the design of the food was obvious and flavours wise, it was all quite impressive as well, no question. The highlights for me were the croquette bbq pork with apple gel and the almond ice cream, the latter really being superb, cutting through the zingy strawberry soufflé nicely and a treat on its own.

This is frankly one of the nicest and most picturesque gatro pubs I have been to in the whole of the UK and for all round quality I think you will be hard pressed to find many other places much better. It is also a B & B and frankly its charm makes me wish to be able to have the excuse to stay over one day simply to enjoy it on that count alone. A true gem in Cumbria.

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Just off the strand is this pleasant and unassuming Italian restaurant serving an interesting mix of all day a la carte dining, a very reasonable set menu for lunch and pre/post theatre dining which is always a bonus to have up the sleeve. And this is particularly so if the food is good value which this brief visit appeared to show.

My courgette flower with melted cheese and walnut ketchup was a win all round however the liver parfait was an entirely creamy and wonderful starter with more toasted sour dough being brought to the table as required and although the parfait was slightly too runny for my palette, it was still lovely in flavour.

My courgette flower with melted cheese and walnut ketchup was a win all round however the liver parfait was an entirely creamy and wonderful starter with more toasted sour dough being brought to the table as required and although the parfait was slightly too runny for my palette, it was still lovely in flavour.

All remaining dishes appeared in a style resembling hearty cooking and simple presentation that gained the acceptance of the table. I liked the light interior of the venue from the large windows and the central bar in the middle of the restaurant gaining the obvious interest of passers by in its casual and pleasing style.

This was a pleasant drop in visit and what made it even better was that the visit alerted me to an App called City Munch that enables you search for nearby restaurants that offer discounts on all meals from 20-40% available in various places in London, this one being one of them. Simple and pleasing food here and even more pleasing when you combine that with a discount off the normal price(!).

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This is my second visit to The Clove Club and was a special occasion in that there were new dishes being presented via a wine pairing event hosted by the ever reassuring Tom Harrow (aka Wine Chap). The two Italian wines that were the centre piece for the event were the San Leonardo and Valdicava starting with those of 2015 and then enjoying the other variants with each course of 2013, 2010, 2009, 2005 and 2003. I will come back to these.

The food itself on this menu had some old favourites (particularly in the snacks) which were welcome and also with new additions. All the dishes carried the same style from my first visit in being very similar to those served at The Sportsman where the ingredients do the most talking and most simmered at highly pleasant. There is a simplicity of design that I love here and the absolute power moments of this meal for me were the unbelievably good ham and the chicken ragout.

The food itself on this menu had some old favourites (particularly in the snacks) which were welcome and also with new additions. All the dishes carried the same style from my first visit in being very similar to those served at The Sportsman where the ingredients do the most talking and most simmered at highly pleasant. There is a simplicity of design that I love here and the absolute power moments of this meal for me were the unbelievably good ham and the chicken ragout.

On the ham first, this was sliced in to pieces that had as much fat as meat but because they were so thinly and finely done this was not an overload of fat but wondrous combination. However, the chicken ragout dish frankly put my happiness on a different plain as the tender chicken, sheer chicken essence of the skin also being perfectly crispy without being drenched in fat, the lovely pheasant egg (which I have never had before) as well as the frankly glorious smoked liver sauce was a total triumph and put me in the same zone of being on holiday in childhood.

The wonderful commenatry inserts provided by Tom Harrow were a sheer pleasure to listen to and great to follow stories behind the specially selected wines through the past years. I have to plead guilty in that I was stacking quite a bit and the more the intake through the afternoon, the more I think my powers of wine tasting judgement suffered. However, what I have certainty in, is that when I put the San Leonardo 2015 to the nose for the first time, I honestly don’t care that it was only 1 year old, this one opened up nostril receptors that I did not know were there – it was one the most luxuriously smooth and wonderful wine I have ever smelled and tasted.

All in all a rather spiffing afternoon(!) and the combination of superb wines and simple, wonderful dishes (some of which making my heart sing) made for a wonderful lunch, all served via exquisitely warm and professional service from the team led by Daniel Willis and Johnny Smith. It was obviously not the cheapest of lunches at £200, but for the outstanding quality of what it was, I would frankly pay that in a heart beat and it was a joy to be a part of.

Canapés were followed by a frankly wonderful amuse bouche of reduced chicken crispy feet (texture of light crisps) with a tarragon emulsion dip and chicken with buttermilk breadcrumbs and pine salt served on pine – this was fantastic. The fish and clementine really worked well together and the starter of black pudding with apple was tingly and sumptuous at the same time. The pollack and orange butter was magnificent and in its simple use of flavours was of a very similar style to that of the Sportsman in Sealsalter and that is significant to say the least. Dessert of rhubarb and yoghurt was light and rich at the same time somehow and the only aspect I didn’t immediately take a shine to was the malt cake at the end as I had already gone from savoury to sweet so didn’t really feel like going back to savoury. However, the mini bread cake was clearly very well made.

A chat with the head chef at the end was very nice to do and was very good to see him at the helm in his own kitchen (which is also visible and open to all in the restaurant). All in all this was a superb set menu and excellent value for lunch as the 3 courses worked out as 7 with all th extras for £35 at Michelin level. A highly recommended lunch venue for anyone.

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