Richard Bagnold

There really wasn’t much fault I could find with this whole venue from start to finish. The lovely Georgian town house setting felt like entering someone’s wonderful home; the front of house greeting was utterly warm and genuine; the interior was stylish and cosy at the same time; the chef (Paul Ainsworth himself) was a delight to speak to afterwards and very good of him to spare his time during work; the food was utterly gorgeous, utterly reasonable in its price tag and I left with that rare, skip and a jump feeling as a result.

So that’s the headline, but to add a little bit more meat on to the bones, the set lunch menu I had was great value at £26 for a Michelin starred, 3 course meal and the roe and crispy pork skin and caramelised butter to dip in to at the beginning was essentially a series of canapes in themselves. The Jerusalem artichoke veloute with its quenelle of cream, wonderfully smoked haddock pieces and tiny sour dough croutons was frankly outstanding. Although the hake main appeared quite simple, the blood cake beneath with mushrooms gave the most delicate and lovely, almost aromatic flavour with the wonderful tamarind and the succulence of the fish was never in question. Dessert was chocolaty but not ridiculously stodgy as some can be with lovely flaky pastry for texture.

So that’s the headline, but to add a little bit more meat on to the bones, the set lunch menu I had was great value at £26 for a Michelin starred, 3 course meal and the roe and crispy pork skin and caramelised butter to dip in to at the beginning was essentially a series of canapes in themselves. The Jerusalem artichoke veloute with its quenelle of cream, wonderfully smoked haddock pieces and tiny sour dough croutons was frankly outstanding. Although the hake main appeared quite simple, the blood cake beneath with mushrooms gave the most delicate and lovely, almost aromatic flavour with the wonderful tamarind and the succulence of the fish was never in question. Dessert was chocolaty but not ridiculously stodgy as some can be with lovely flaky pastry for texture.

As always the food grade is based purely on the food but in general this is one of the nicest places I have been to in a long while for ticking every box. What continues to amaze me is how some people dare not enter these places when you have every reason to do so. The homely nature of this venue works just as well for T-shirt lunches and more romantic or dressed up occasions in the evening and it is available at a reasonable price – what’s not to like?!

I can’t sing more highly of Mr Paul Ainsworth’s restaurant and to me, it exemplifies everything that is right about enjoying dining out. It was obvious to me that the staff were very happy in their surroundings and that completely rubbed off on me. Thank you to everyone there for such a lovely experience which is a staple in the mind for this year’s eats. Please simply keep doing what you’re doing(!).

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There was just enough time and room on this visit to Rick Stein’s fish and chips café which has a seating area for parts of the day, otherwise it is a chip shop with a roped off area to deal with the stardom it obviously has at peak periods.

It is set within a huge warehouse that is part of the brand, holding a Rick Stein shop and cookery school. Overall it indicated its very clever seizure of the market and again helps me to understand just why the name is so embedded in to Padstow. It strikes me that his early television work and very savvy marketing and business team have simply done a very good job on grabbing and subsequently dominating a place and idea early and then capitalise on it to the max.

There is obviously only so many ways fish and chips can be done but as a national treasure dish it is nice to see this place using beef dripping as opposed to normal cooking oil and is reportedly changed every day / other day (so I was told by the staff) and it did produce a lovely flavour. The batter was nice and crispy thin. In terms of restaurants it would be a little strange for me to grade it in comparison, but in terms of fish and chips, this was certainly in the top quadrant – not quite as biblical as Tom Kerridge’s at The hand & Flowers, but certainly very well done.

What was interesting here was that I learned where the brand issue comes in to play. My nearest was gutted to see the Camel Valley English sparkling wine that she had bought from Rick Stein’s shop at £37, in a family run wine shop and exactly the same bottle but for £33. My advice to get a refund and buy from the lovely little shop instead or ask to price match was ‘poopooed’, but this alerted me to the importance of exploring options before going to the brand, particularly when it has absolutely no affect on the product! Naughty, but shrewd Mr Stein! ?

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In my crammed visit to Padstow, I was able to cram in a visit to Mr Rick Stein’s much fabled café in Padstow. I’ve always wondered what the reputation and almsot hysteria is about this venue. I like Rick Stein a great deal as he is very amiable and watchable in his love of seafood so, naturally I was curious. Padstow has basically become dominated by the Stein brand so it was interesting to see what his central café was about.

Firstly, it is first come first served, so no bookings if that was a concern and with the thousands of people walking in and around Padstow on my half term visit I was amazed that we managed to get a table – not only that it was a lovely sofa bench table right by the bar. The look and feel of this little café was actually what most struck me – it just has the look of a really cosy, casual and pleasant interior without being over the top at the same time.

Firstly, it is first come first served, so no bookings if that was a concern and with the thousands of people walking in and around Padstow on my half term visit I was amazed that we managed to get a table – not only that it was a lovely sofa bench table right by the bar. The look and feel of this little café was actually what most struck me – it just has the look of a really cosy, casual and pleasant interior without being over the top at the same time.

The offerings were visually on the simple side and the prices did not appear to be as eye-watering as the horror stories I was led to believe before my visit. The flavours were fresh and appealing without question but in all due fairness, I think it would be difficult to say this was advanced cooking. It clearly doesn’t want to be which is obviously great in a way – I was just a little surprised the fish burger for example was as basic as it was noting the brand which is where I think some may take issue.

So all in all, not incredibly special for the food, but certainly not damaging and was pleasing enough. It is a delightful little place regardless and I can see why it is absolutely perfect for those looking for a comforting experience with children without breaking the bank and I wouldn’t say no to going in the evening but thought it was at its forte in the afternoon hours.

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As I continue my journey of starred venues across the whole of the UK, I found myself here which revealed exceptional value for money. No only was a set menu available in the evening (rare for a Michelin starred (2017) restaurant) but the kids menu at £6.95 for a squash, main course and ice cream is by the best value for money option for children I think I have seen in any establishment with or without a notable accolade. Sadly, for this occasion, I struggled to see why this venue had a Michelin star.

Food on the whole was well presented and I could see this effort but sadly I did think overall that this was not the strongest of Michelin starred venues I have been to based on the toughness of my pork, the lack of flavour and cream within the dauphinoise potatoes and the subtleness of the crab dish. On the plus side, the scallop dish was a hit with those at the table and the lemon tart was perfectly warmed and textured with a lovely flavour. The service was attentive throughout and it was very good of the team to accommodate our late arrival so gracefully.

This is quite a modern looking restaurant with some fantastic menu options, but I would say with a very generous accolade when comparing to some non-starred venues that I consider to be easily on an equal par.

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This was a delightful meal. The interior looks quite formal and perhaps more unique in its Student town surroundings, therefore I would say it is perfectly suited to evening and more romantic occasions rather than others but foodies will be happy here whatever the time of day. A pleasure to try this restaurant which also revealed a very reasonable set menu at lunch as well if you wanted to do a more economic ‘reconnaissance’ before deciding whether to splash out on a full blown evening dinner.

The flavours first and foremost were absolutely marvellous on everything I tried from the bacon bread onwards. The duck liver parfait on chicken skin may not have been the most calorie free but was among the best I have ever had with its lovely maderia gel and smoothness of texture. The smoked haddock velouté was superb and the clever grouse wellington for one was very reasonable for £20 I thought as a main (most mains let alone an in season ingredient will be minimum £20-30 in Michelin starred restaurants) and had a delicious pine emulsion to go with it. So much so that with the jus, even I, a sauce freak had an almost overdose of sauce and did not really need the bread sauce in the end, but was nice to have even if I would have preferred this to being slightly more lumpy rather than puree in texture.

The flavours first and foremost were absolutely marvellous on everything I tried from the bacon bread onwards. The duck liver parfait on chicken skin may not have been the most calorie free but was among the best I have ever had with its lovely maderia gel and smoothness of texture. The smoked haddock velouté was superb and the clever grouse wellington for one was very reasonable for £20 I thought as a main (most mains let alone an in season ingredient will be minimum £20-30 in Michelin starred restaurants) and had a delicious pine emulsion to go with it. So much so that with the jus, even I, a sauce freak had an almost overdose of sauce and did not really need the bread sauce in the end, but was nice to have even if I would have preferred this to being slightly more lumpy rather than puree in texture.

Simple sides accompanied the meal which almost had French richness akin to Le Gavroche so I would recommend an appointment with the gym before or after a visit to Turners but what’s life for if you can’t indulge every so on?

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This was a mixed emotion visit as the food was actually very good but I was left wanting to leave in a hurry owing to the time lag and overall experience sadly. The venue has been recently refurbished and is bright, breezy and very pleasant, especially with its terrace, canopies and garden. Actually there were some perfectly decent products being offered here on this lunch menu, but as mentioned, the service really did mar the show.

The bacon bread was a total pleasure as were the thoughtful canapés and the burnt butter with vinegar was an utter delight to dip the bread in to. The set lunch menu was more expensive to most 1 Michelin star set menus I have seen, but was still a far more reasonable option than the a la carte.

The bacon bread was a total pleasure as were the thoughtful canapés and the burnt butter with vinegar was an utter delight to dip the bread in to. The set lunch menu was more expensive to most 1 Michelin star set menus I have seen, but was still a far more reasonable option than the a la carte.

The sea bream main was extremely good with a nice pre-dessert mini cone, brought out by who I presume was the chef de partie who made it which was a nice touch. It was a smooth ice cream flavoured with subtle beetroot and was pleasant enough. The deconstructed tiramisu was pleasing and it rounded off the meal very well.

However, what was a shame on this visit was having to wait 30 minutes for the bread. This was also after asking the staff at the beginning of the meal to progress the meal as quickly as possible owing to other commitments. Even if this hadn’t been requested, this is far too long to have to wait and caused me to remind the staff, which I haven’t had to do in quite a while, least of all at a Michelin starred restaurant.

I was also not very keen on being asked how the meal so much after each course and in some cases before I had even tried the dish. All this did was show me that some staff weren’t paying enough attention or were perhaps fishing for self-fulfilling reassurance first, rather than have the diner’s interest at heart. The fact that the ‘optional’ service charge was already placed on the bill with the above occurring also showed an overt confidence and there were moments where the hospitality made me feel as though I should consider it a privilege to be there. Sorry, but these days, that just doesn’t wash with me and although this probably wasn’t intended by the staff, these signals easily come across and are not so small. In retrospect I should have obeyed my instinct and asked for this to be removed based on the performance, but that would have delayed things further without doubt. I gather that Simpsons, to their complete credit, are reviewing their service charge and changing it as of Dec 16 anyway.

So, a lovely menu but unfortunately the above, combined with a self-assured delivery, made me want to leave more speedily than usual. However, if you have time on your hands and you are tolerant, this venue has some very agreeable food.

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When you’re faced with so many tempting things and you’re not sure when the next time you’re going to be able to get back, it’s almost a crime not to go for ‘the works’. That’s the result of taking one look at the menu at Carters of Moseley. These carefully crafted dishes ended up being a true treat with the unique twist of being quite healthy(!). Dairy and cream are limited in use and yet you are guaranteed quite a show of dishes even if you opt for the 3 course meal at £35 as the snacks will ensure this is boosted by at least another 3. This shows how well the restaurant caters for all wallets accordingly and was great to visit.

All the snacks were a pleasure with the cereal flakes on parfait being the most pleasing (toasted nuts and foie gras seem to be quite popular at the moment and for good reason: it is a lovely combination!). However the socker punches from this meal I think were the mashed potato and bone marrow gravy (outstanding texture and flavour) and the black pudding which was beautifully softened and gentle with the more rare alphonso mango (from India) and shoots for a touch of texture.

All the snacks were a pleasure with the cereal flakes on parfait being the most pleasing (toasted nuts and foie gras seem to be quite popular at the moment and for good reason: it is a lovely combination!). However the socker punches from this meal I think were the mashed potato and bone marrow gravy (outstanding texture and flavour) and the black pudding which was beautifully softened and gentle with the more rare alphonso mango (from India) and shoots for a touch of texture.

The smoked palenta with the Partridge was a brilliant touch as was the warmed fresh cheese with maple syrup and truffle. The iced apple that cut through the very well judged salted caramel was another aspect and with the fun Egyptian coffee at the end (no milk or sugar to spoil its authenticity) ended a sophisticated and highly original meal. The staff here really knew their business as well and was a pleasure speaking to them and meeting the head chef who was more than accommodating and approachable – a privilege to have so much interaction with such talented people.

This was accomplished cooking and a unique meal. Thoroughly recommended and worth clearing a full evening to do in full for a more special occasion.

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This was a very flavoursome lunch indeed. The set menu was superb value at £23 for 3 courses and more importantly each dish was just simple and effective. Overall this was a great lunch with some lovely, simple dishes at a very reasonable price in a trendy part of town, let down by its comparatively low hospitality.

The pita bread was a pleasure to rip up and share together, the mackerel was utterly fresh, the lamb salad was a bowl of lovely ingredients with sardines in tempura batter that worked really well with the pickled carrots. The highlight for me was probably the aromatic sauce at the bottom of the bowl of the duck, foie gras and water chestnuts and pretty amazing that was on the set menu as well. The sorbets (particularly the coconut) were pleasant but seemed too sweet unfortunately.

The pita bread was a pleasure to rip up and share together, the mackerel was utterly fresh, the lamb salad was a bowl of lovely ingredients with sardines in tempura batter that worked really well with the pickled carrots. The highlight for me was probably the aromatic sauce at the bottom of the bowl of the duck, foie gras and water chestnuts and pretty amazing that was on the set menu as well. The sorbets (particularly the coconut) were pleasant but seemed too sweet unfortunately.

Sadly, the negative of this trip was the initial welcome / entry as my party and another guest were not even acknowledged waiting with the front door half open by the front of house on the phone. Of course one can’t do two things at the same time but sometimes just a glimpse or signal that you are at least acknowledged and not having to stand outside for 60 seconds is all that it takes. On entering, we were left alone for another short while and the lady on the ground floor on the other phone saw us and walked away.

Although this is not the end of the world, they are easily done in a better way and this is the difference I think between a 1 Michelin starred venue and, in the main, those that have 2 or 3. Not doing it well simply sticks in the mind more than the better things. Service upstairs where we ate was better but not as easy and in control as the more assured starred venues that exist.

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I love history and find it fascinating putting it in to (a) modern context. During his reign, Henry VIII spent a fortune on elaborate banquets, and was renowned for his gastronomic excess – all to impress his subjects and as an obvious display of wealth and power. Indeed, Henry was so fond of his food that he insisted on suitable venues wherever he travelled around his domain. Well, the good news for 21st Century food lovers is that one of these venues, Great Fosters, has recently been awarded a Michelin star for their Tudor Room restaurant. Diners can now experience fine dining in this historic setting without, presumably, the other excesses associated with Henry VIII. This was a triumph of a meal and gave that warm, happy feeling to be there eating it.

Here, Douglas Balish (formerly of the 2 Michelin starred Whatley Manor) displayed a menu which, to me, frankly made it hard for me to believe how he was not awarded this star earlier. I was relieved to find out that there was not enough time in his first half year there to gain the necessary inspections.

Here, Douglas Balish (formerly of the 2 Michelin starred Whatley Manor) displayed a menu which, to me, frankly made it hard for me to believe how he was not awarded this star earlier. I was relieved to find out that there was not enough time in his first half year there to gain the necessary inspections.

The set lunch menu was outstanding value for all of the add on extras (which I do vehemently believe make a lot of difference) and from the moment I entered through the novel door in a door staff were present and at the ready to guide and host. I found the food elegant and carefully conceived showing technical skill in some cases not too out of place in some 2 Michelin starred venues I have been to. Much pleasure was gained from the fragrant amuse bouche with delicate beef skin, the clever pork main and the superb petit fours which all registered well on the Richter scale.

Above the very reasonable set menu price (see below) I thought an especially nice touch was the option to have cheese instead of a dessert within the set menu and a choice of 5 from a very comprehensive list that was also interesting to read. The truffled honey that went with was a triumph and frankly I could have just eaten this like soup with the lovely miniature spoon it came with.

A quality meal all round in a striking setting. I didn’t have a chance to look at the Greenhouses along the rear driveway but based on the set menu here, it is a definite marker in the sand to ensure going back to see the menu in full song another time.

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Well it was a fairly long drive to get to but the headline is that this was well worth it! Just tucked in amongst the re-entrants and streams of South Wales sits The Whitebrook. I would recommend making sure your map or GPS is finalised before heading there as there was no signal on my phone anywhere near the place (using apparrently the best network in the country). Once arrived, I was immediately looked after and offered an original and seemingly world first of non-alcoholic spirit drink made from distilled citrus. An utter success of the food all round and made the drive completely worth it.

The tasting menu here really was excellent. Although I thought the portion sizes were quite small initially, the number of them thankfully weighed up to being just sated at the end. However, the key point is that each dish was crafted with utter care and I loved the balance of sweets and salts throughout with original flavours and not once did the creator seem to take his eye off the ball with wonderful textures.

The tasting menu here really was excellent. Although I thought the portion sizes were quite small initially, the number of them thankfully weighed up to being just sated at the end. However, the key point is that each dish was crafted with utter care and I loved the balance of sweets and salts throughout with original flavours and not once did the creator seem to take his eye off the ball with wonderful textures.

Personal favourites for me on this meal were the smoked beetroot (because normally I don’t like beetroot but this I really did) with the black pudding crumbs, the utterly divine pork skin and succulent pork replacement for the scallops (thank god for an intolerance to those on this occasion frankly!) and the violet parfait pre-dessert. The latter really was a wonderful surprise of flavours, held together with freshness and crispyness from the other elements as well. Normally I don’t like savoury and sweet in desserts, but the tarragon and herb sorbet was judged beautifully in its softness.

It was a delight to hear Chris Harrod reflect on the fact that it was only after being able to part with a large company and and go solo and doing things exactly how he wanted to pursue with all of the local ingredients at his disposal that then he gained his Michelin star. The principle I think, being something we could probably all learn from.

A very controlled and skillful style of cooking seen here, well worth the journey for those who appreciate notable food. My only slight gripe being that I wanted more of some of the dishes. But I really thought this was super cooking from someone who wished to gain the maximum from the components used and as a result, the £103 for the meal seemed fair enough to me as a price tag for this level of cooking. As it is slightly hard to get to, it is very good that they have rooms to stay as well, just in case a full blow out of food and wine is wished. I will secure lodgings or a driver next time!

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