About
Richard Bagnold MBA MA PGCE was born and bred in London and has travelled extensively in the UK and overseas.
From an early age he's been interested in fine food. Now he's one of the very few people – if not the only person – to have visited and reviewed every Michelin starred restaurant in the UK.
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London, United Kingdom
Born
June 02
Job Title
Founder & MD
Social
Restaurants
- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at Céleste at The Lanesborough Grill
This was a return that went way better than I was expecting. I always knew how nicely The Lanesborough did things when the Michelin starred Italian restaurant Apsley’s was in residence and that also goes for their tea which I also believe, for the ease, style and brightness of the dining area is the best venue for high tea in London, possibly the... More
This was a return that went way better than I was expecting. I always knew how nicely The Lanesborough did things when the Michelin starred Italian restaurant Apsley’s was in residence and that also goes for their tea which I also believe, for the ease, style and brightness of the dining area is the best venue for high tea in London, possibly the whole of the UK. A few years and millions of pounds worth of refurbishment later and a newly promoted Michelin starred and revamped Céleste restaurant at The Lanesborough under the helmsman ship of Florian Favario, formerly of Le Bristol and I was very happy to be back. A very good lunch here and much to be desired to come back to.
First up, the dining room and the hotel is much the same shape as before but all of the old, dark, almost gentleman’s pipe-smoking club, wood décor (outside of the restaurant) has been replaced with a much breezier and light toned panelling and intricate ceiling designs that will make many a date start on a positive note for those that are in need of credit with the other half. The dining room itself was spacious as always and seemed to have even more brightness from the glass (with linen blinds) roof. I don’t think anyone could have too many negatives on the look and feel of the venue in any way.
First up, the dining room and the hotel is much the same shape as before but all of the old, dark, almost gentleman’s pipe-smoking club, wood décor (outside of the restaurant) has been replaced with a much breezier and light toned panelling and intricate ceiling designs that will make many a date start on a positive note for those that are in need of credit with the other half. The dining room itself was spacious as always and seemed to have even more brightness from the glass (with linen blinds) roof. I don’t think anyone could have too many negatives on the look and feel of the venue in any way.
Delicious spiced lentils in mini-tacos were provided to munch on whilst selecting the menu and the smoked butter here really was delightful with the breads. This does actually stick in my mind as a superb flavour giving an immediate impression of the efforts that the kitchen here desires to do.
I opted for the set lunch menu with matching wines and the news is that I simply became happier and happier with each offering. A gorgeously airy mushroom velouté sat beneath a delicate crisp layer and hen’s egg for richness with a lovely choice of strong glass of 2015 Salta Torrontes from Argentina that cut through it beautifully but without any harshness. The main of beef cheek was softened to the touch with a marvellous combo of coconut decorated carrot which I really did think was the star of the show and gave the dish a lovely and vibrant character, washed down with a gentle 2007 Roija (Crianza, Vina Cubillo) that slipped down with total ease.
Although quite full on chocolatey, I thought the dessert was very impressive and frankly the line between this presentation and those I have had in many 2 Michelin star restaurants was very thin, and that’s on this set menu(!). A fortified wine (NV Banyulus “Gaby Vial”), deep with cherry really went with this well – I’m not the biggest fan of port, but when it’s done good, it’s good(!) and this went very well in its more manageable and generally lighter touch.
I was waiting for something to not be to my liking, but even the petit fours served in a chocolate shell had just the sort of things that you love, including softened fudge, very nicely glazed pecan nuts and mini marshmallows, all in workably bite sized form. With the exception of being in slight chocolate overload state at the end, I so enjoyed this meal, all its flavours and for the £65 for the meal and matching wines, this was one of the strongest returns I have had all year – a brilliantly judged meal.
A quick word on going the extra mile – grandeur is all fine, but what is most difficult to pull off is a sense of non-stuffy genuine warmth and a relaxed feel at the same time – Lucknam Park, Le Gavroche and Le Manoir are examples of places where I think this is achieved and I am adding The Lanesborough to this list with full volume as the staff were superb. An example of this was when one of the floor staff was walking in my direction to clear my main and then saw that I was breaking bread to sweep every molecule of jus from the dish, and simply diverted his path without any sense of judgement or hassle – my happiness as the diner was at the forefront of his mind, so there’s class and there is class and the grace shown by all on my visit to Céleste puts The Lanesborough decidedly in the latter.
This was one of the highlights of the year for me and this includes a year with a visit to a perfect 100% dining experience in Copenhagen (actually this was not Noma but actually 3 Michelin starred Geranium) and another high memory at The Fat Duck, so Céleste is a fairly good zone to be in! A great re-opening and am so pleased to have enjoyed the menu and experience as much as I did – I could have stayed here forever actually, but alas, duty calls elsewhere.
https://major-foodie.com/celeste-at-the-lanesborough-hyde-park/
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- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at Restaurant Tristan at Restaurant Tristan
The stand out aspect from this visit was the bold move of the restaurant to include a set menu in the evening which is a superb option for having dinner and not wishing to spend several hours in the process. It is also fantastic value for money as the set menu in this Michelin starred restaurant turned out to be £25 for 3 courses which, with a sublime... More
The stand out aspect from this visit was the bold move of the restaurant to include a set menu in the evening which is a superb option for having dinner and not wishing to spend several hours in the process. It is also fantastic value for money as the set menu in this Michelin starred restaurant turned out to be £25 for 3 courses which, with a sublime cod with cacao bean puree amuse bouche made it a four course meal. Some lovely options here, cooked well and showing a very good return for the bill.
I really enjoyed the flavours and textures of the crab starter with its citrus gel and cauliflower and the foie gras was beautifully smooth with a great supporting element of the toasted nuts which I haven’t had before and was a brilliant coupling. The partridge was succulent but I found I didn’t need anywhere near as much of the salsify powder provided as was a powerful bitter; in fact this was the only element that didn’t really gel with me. Otherwise, the food all round was carefully considered, including the pepper butter at the start (quite a kick and original as a result) and olive spread as extra bits of efforts from the kitchen which I think does make a difference.
I really enjoyed the flavours and textures of the crab starter with its citrus gel and cauliflower and the foie gras was beautifully smooth with a great supporting element of the toasted nuts which I haven’t had before and was a brilliant coupling. The partridge was succulent but I found I didn’t need anywhere near as much of the salsify powder provided as was a powerful bitter; in fact this was the only element that didn’t really gel with me. Otherwise, the food all round was carefully considered, including the pepper butter at the start (quite a kick and original as a result) and olive spread as extra bits of efforts from the kitchen which I think does make a difference.
What was a little bizarre was the position of the rest room in the upstairs dining area which was directly next to the kitchen entrance so you will need to dodge waiting staff as you are need to cut right across their cross-lane in a congested corner of the restaurant. As I could see the staff having to knock on the door of the kitchen to avoid a clash with anyone on the otherside (whilst holding finished plates), making way for customers is another constraint so I actually didn’t go to the restroom upstairs to avoid causing more strain and was strange to see. However, this is not show-stopper and certainly not much an exquisitley old building that the restaurant has based itself in can do to change this at this stage.
The hospitality was genuine and clearly many a strong, local following was evident for a much-loved neighbourhood restaurant. Very good food here and exceedingly good value, all served with a top level smile.
https://major-foodie.com/restaurant-tristan-horsham/
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- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at The Wild Rabbit at The Wild Rabbit
I was immediately taken by this place and there is no question that aesthetically it is possibly the most beautifully refurbished gastro pub / Inn in the whole country. The Cotswold stone and log fires in the bar, restaurant and even outside rear patio make it beautifully picturesque which is why I have also placed this in the best view category... More
I was immediately taken by this place and there is no question that aesthetically it is possibly the most beautifully refurbished gastro pub / Inn in the whole country. The Cotswold stone and log fires in the bar, restaurant and even outside rear patio make it beautifully picturesque which is why I have also placed this in the best view category as well (i.e. the view of the oustside rear area). As The Wild Rabbit (from the Bamford family) has gained its first Michelin star (2017) it now has itself positioned more prominently on the UK map.
The food here was very nicely done. Home made breads were pleasing to begin with and as salads are (for me) more difficult to make interesting, I wanted to see what this was like. The result was an imaginative presentation with powdered onion decoration and a lovely amount of goat’s curd to add moisture and something lively in to the proceedings on the palate making a lovely flavour. The quail was another beautiful looking dish with some very delicate slices of marteau sausage and glorious smoked shallot puree. I wasn’t expecting to have such an acidic walk away flavour with the gel, creative as it was and personally I would have loved more of the puree and maybe another quail egg in breadcrumbs as I ran out of these relatively quickly to have with the amount of quail it was supporting, but it was an enjoyable dish. A beautifully smooth lemon curd with madeleine as petit four finished off the meal very nicely in the bar area opposite the open fireplace.
The food here was very nicely done. Home made breads were pleasing to begin with and as salads are (for me) more difficult to make interesting, I wanted to see what this was like. The result was an imaginative presentation with powdered onion decoration and a lovely amount of goat’s curd to add moisture and something lively in to the proceedings on the palate making a lovely flavour. The quail was another beautiful looking dish with some very delicate slices of marteau sausage and glorious smoked shallot puree. I wasn’t expecting to have such an acidic walk away flavour with the gel, creative as it was and personally I would have loved more of the puree and maybe another quail egg in breadcrumbs as I ran out of these relatively quickly to have with the amount of quail it was supporting, but it was an enjoyable dish. A beautifully smooth lemon curd with madeleine as petit four finished off the meal very nicely in the bar area opposite the open fireplace.
The sides were simple and well done, as was the béarnaise that the kitchen kindly gave on request. There were a couple of minor dips in service that stood out to the critical eye (forgotten replacement bread that was offered and a lengthy wait for the bill) but generally the key thing was that the staff clearly wished to try & make the experience a good one for the diner in the restaurant.
This was a lovely evening visit and would be utterly perfect for a dinner date or special little treat. What I particularly loved was seeing people come in to the bar just to grab a pint and the scrabble board mixed with those that preferred to have their rustic meal in the bar area instead of the restaurant which I think is one of the gems of our nation and the way in which this can be done in a sumptuous, yet cosy pub. Based on the food I had it seems quite apt to see this one with a Michelin star, I will back here in a hearbeat for bar snacks and drinks with others whenever I can as a firm marker in the map.
https://major-foodie.com/the-wild-rabbit-kingham/
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- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at Hemsley & Hemsley Cafe at Hemsley & Hemsley Cafe
This is a very chic and cosy café serving a variety of nutritious options in line with the Hemsley and Hemsley brand and philosophy. I only had time to have some snacks at the bar including the crudités with red pepper hummus and the anchovy and garlic cream dip with similar platter of options to use as edible spoons for the dip. The venue is... More
This is a very chic and cosy café serving a variety of nutritious options in line with the Hemsley and Hemsley brand and philosophy. I only had time to have some snacks at the bar including the crudités with red pepper hummus and the anchovy and garlic cream dip with similar platter of options to use as edible spoons for the dip. The venue is cramped and seemingly with sophisticates enjoying a weekly dose of healthy food that I found not hugely my cup of tea on the options that I had.
The red pepper hummus was ok but not as deeply peppery as I was expecting; far nicer I thought was the anchovy and garlic cream dip though. I did think both were a little steep at £9 each when the surrounding elements to dip in to the hummus and garlic cream were simply a sprinkling of sliced vegetables with elements of crudités, healthy as they are. Don’t get me wrong I am perfectly happy to spend £300 in a 3 Michelin starred restaurant in a heart beat based on the return being a lifetime memory, but the platter did not seem to give the same amount of proportional return to the price is the simple point (healthy yes, but not completely bowled over by the flavour).
The red pepper hummus was ok but not as deeply peppery as I was expecting; far nicer I thought was the anchovy and garlic cream dip though. I did think both were a little steep at £9 each when the surrounding elements to dip in to the hummus and garlic cream were simply a sprinkling of sliced vegetables with elements of crudités, healthy as they are. Don’t get me wrong I am perfectly happy to spend £300 in a 3 Michelin starred restaurant in a heart beat based on the return being a lifetime memory, but the platter did not seem to give the same amount of proportional return to the price is the simple point (healthy yes, but not completely bowled over by the flavour).
Sadly this was also the case with the iced matcha latte which is essentially an iced green tea but the menu appears to give an image of a milky and vanillery drink – it was essentially too watery for me with only scant trace of vanilla or maple syrup. It was however, very kind of the staff to offer to replace with a hot version which, although not my favourite, was a lot nicer.
Considering you can get a Michelin starred set menu in London quite easily for under £25 (go to my best for set menu page) I did feel the £25 for this was quite pricey, then again it is Selfridges. The time I had available was a constraint and so I would like to go back to try a proper lunch and or breakfast to see how these nutrient-dense versions are and will report back.
https://major-foodie.com/hemsley-hemsley-cafe-selfridges-london/
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- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at The Walnut Tree at Walnut Tree
The Walnut Tree Inn is a secluded, Michelin starred pub in South East Wales and as a result is exceptionally busy on Fridays and Saturdays where it becomes the hive for many surrounding folk. As I was on my own for this ‘drive-by’ I was afforded a seat in the bar area for dinner as this is their reserve area for stragglers like me, so I was lucky... More
The Walnut Tree Inn is a secluded, Michelin starred pub in South East Wales and as a result is exceptionally busy on Fridays and Saturdays where it becomes the hive for many surrounding folk. As I was on my own for this ‘drive-by’ I was afforded a seat in the bar area for dinner as this is their reserve area for stragglers like me, so I was lucky to get the seat on the Fri evening having booked on the morning(!). When I got there I was genuinely impressed with the drive of the team and was evident to me that they were not concerned with the fanfare of having a Michelin star, but motivated more by working together to create a fun atmosphere and pleased to be serving the products they do. Simple things done well here and would like another go whenever I can.
On to the products then, the greeting snack of perfectly done sausage roll was a lovely opening and just what the doctor ordered. I thought the duck liver parfait was one of the nicest I had ever had with a clever format for the brioche in its layered but grilled presentation (making it a lot easier to eat than most) and the outstanding dressing to go with the borage and pansy flower salad on the side. This dressing turned out to be sweet mustard and olive oil with finely chopped parsley and is officially the nicest dressing I have ever had and will be used forthwith when cooking at home. The salt from this, combined with the sweet from the fig with the utterly smooth and flavoursome parfait, made this an absolutely superb starter – a real hit.
On to the products then, the greeting snack of perfectly done sausage roll was a lovely opening and just what the doctor ordered. I thought the duck liver parfait was one of the nicest I had ever had with a clever format for the brioche in its layered but grilled presentation (making it a lot easier to eat than most) and the outstanding dressing to go with the borage and pansy flower salad on the side. This dressing turned out to be sweet mustard and olive oil with finely chopped parsley and is officially the nicest dressing I have ever had and will be used forthwith when cooking at home. The salt from this, combined with the sweet from the fig with the utterly smooth and flavoursome parfait, made this an absolutely superb starter – a real hit.
I was also tempted to go for the special starter of steak tartare however, this turned out to be less of a joy to the parfait as the flavour was quite subtle. No problems with the texture of the tartare, especially with the home cooked chips but it simply wasn’t on a par with those that I have had at say, Bonhams, Chiltern Firehouse, Brasserie Chavot or Berner’s Tavern for example. The anchovy and garlic potato dauphines on the other hand were a solid gold pleasure – so light with beautifully soft mash, but perfectly strong enough in garlic and anchovy tones. Finally, the peanut parfait and chocolate dessert was great but I thought the chocolate was a bit heavy so I found I didn’t need such a thick slice of it, but the flavour combo of it all with the drums of banana and well done peanut and tofee crisps (which did not stick to every corner of the mouth as many do) were very good.
All in all, I found this a lovely meal, served by those who seemed very focussed. It is clearly one of the best options to go for in the vicinity of SE Wales and I’m pleased I made the journey.
https://major-foodie.com/the-walnut-tree-abergavenny/
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- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at Lyles at Lyle's
My second visit to Lyles which was exceedingly welcome after my first time. Thankfully, the headline for this visit is that it was a super show all round. The glasses of rosé that were recommended were the nicest I think I have ever had and all the food was in the same, minimalist and powerful league as I remember it. A superb venue which is... More
My second visit to Lyles which was exceedingly welcome after my first time. Thankfully, the headline for this visit is that it was a super show all round. The glasses of rosé that were recommended were the nicest I think I have ever had and all the food was in the same, minimalist and powerful league as I remember it. A superb venue which is now one of my top recommendations in London.
I refrained from the shellfish but the eal starter was simply one of a kind (so fresh and delightfully balanced in flavour) and I think the highlight of the meal and beyond anything from my first visit. I enjoyed my mushrooms with egg a great deal. My second starter of grouse with liver parfait on toast was a very pleasing variation on for ths game and on trying the flank of beef, this was superbly tender and served with a beautifully judged amchovy sauce. I found my blackcurrant dessert quite sharp but overall nicely done and I the found the fig dessert simple and very agreeable.
I refrained from the shellfish but the eal starter was simply one of a kind (so fresh and delightfully balanced in flavour) and I think the highlight of the meal and beyond anything from my first visit. I enjoyed my mushrooms with egg a great deal. My second starter of grouse with liver parfait on toast was a very pleasing variation on for ths game and on trying the flank of beef, this was superbly tender and served with a beautifully judged amchovy sauce. I found my blackcurrant dessert quite sharp but overall nicely done and I the found the fig dessert simple and very agreeable.
The service was a pleasant mix of being attentive, knoweldgeable and in a casual style at the same time, although I’m not sure listening to “Danger Zone” from the soundtrack of Top Gun and other upbeat songs were very good background music for this restaurant, even if the interior lends itself to a more informal setting. However, overall this was a fine meal indeed and makes two out of two virtual knock out meals had a Lyles.
The blood cake (black pudding) here with burnt apple reduction was simple and extremely good with the fennel that provided the perfect crunch to add texture whilst complimenting the flavours nicely and I thought the dexter beef (which was perfectly tender) was absolutely beautiful with the accompanying celeriac puree (also completely knock out as a puree and pairing). Such a simple dish but so powerful and enjoyable that I found it difficult to see how this could be improved. The dessert was good but not as strong as the savouries – still very pleasant though with a perfectly textured and sweetened treacle and a calmer, less sweet milk ice cream to provide the balance.
I really enjoyed the food here and I could not help think of The Clove Club and a sprinkling of The Sportsman as well in its style. Although the choices of menu are restricted I thought the value for money for the £36 for this lunch was a fair package and I was just about full on leaving. The service was welcoming and enjoyed a more informal style, which suited the look and feel of the restaurant but did seem like it was having to catch up on occasion. I would say Lyles is perfect for casual occasions as its forte. In terms of the food, I thought the simplicity and flavours combined made for dishes that were really first-rate and am very happy to grade accordingly.
https://major-foodie.com/lyles-shoreditch/
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- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at The Pony & Trap at The Pony Chew Valley
This was a lovely place to visit. The sad thing for me was that it was dark by the time I got there on passing Bristol back to the middle shires of Southern England, so I missed the Pony & Trap’s views from their back garden, but as a headline, this didn’t stop enjoying the warm glow of hospitality and fine treats inside.
Josh Eggleton (who is... More
This was a lovely place to visit. The sad thing for me was that it was dark by the time I got there on passing Bristol back to the middle shires of Southern England, so I missed the Pony & Trap’s views from their back garden, but as a headline, this didn’t stop enjoying the warm glow of hospitality and fine treats inside.
Josh Eggleton (who is on his third appearance on a wonderful annual programme I enjoy, The Great British Menu) and his sister Holly run the pub and the stand out things for me on my visit was how accommodating the service was, numerous herbs and vegetables used are grown in the owner’s garden and the fact that the snacks on the menu were so reasonable and enticing.
I was actually torn between which snacks to go for….so clearly the only thing to do in this situation is do all of them. The pickled onions in creamed sherry were gorgeously softened – strange to think chomping on onions would be a good idea, but the pickle had completely toned these down with a wonderfully soft and creamy sherry flavour making it completely doable. The hand made crisps were good enough to enjoy on their own without the pleasant garlic dip, but the crowing glory was the soft, mini Yorkshire pudding with steak tartare and a drizzle of jus and blob of soft horseradish. I think I really could have just had eight of the latter and called it a night, but I wanted to try as many things as possible so, headed to the starters.
After the home made bread (pleasurable) I tried the green and red tomato starter which, with the salt from the ewe’s curd and accompanying salt was very good (such sweet tomatoes). This, with the side of bone marrow mash (which was a fair variation) nearly put me at very full with just enough room to try the ice creams (and home made cookies) the nicest of which for me was the guernsey milk ice cream without a shadow of doubt – I had just missed the popcorn variety which was a shame and will try and grab next time if it’s being done.
This was genuinely comforting meal with some no messing use of ingredients and nice ideas being done in a simple and lovely way on the whole. Probably more staggering is that this Michelin starred dinner making me utterly stuffed having a 7 course tasting menu in effect, produced a bill of £28 (without booze owing to a late night drive). This is pretty incredible and underpins what I enjoy discovering and sharing for all, to know what is actually out there in terms of this kind of return.
A definite pin in the for food map with homely service and a no brainer for a return visit.
https://major-foodie.com/the-pony-trap-bristol/
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- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at The Potted Pig at The Potted Pig
This is a lovely looking place and ideal for locals wanting to have a nice meal. It seemed a nice option to go for and I thought the service was very attentive throughout with a good selection of reasonable wines from £18 upwards – we opted for a Bordeaux at £26 which turned out to be uncomplex but perfectly doable. The pork main was fair (I... More
This is a lovely looking place and ideal for locals wanting to have a nice meal. It seemed a nice option to go for and I thought the service was very attentive throughout with a good selection of reasonable wines from £18 upwards – we opted for a Bordeaux at £26 which turned out to be uncomplex but perfectly doable. The pork main was fair (I didn’t get a huge amount of flavour on this) and I needed quite a large amount of worcester sauce for the Welsh rarebit, but the pork croquette with gribiche sauce was nice, the pork scratchings were nicely done and very good value to have the starter, large rarebit and home made fries all for £16 and I was full. A pleasant option when all said and done with very reasonable offerings.
Food Grade: 61%
https://major-foodie.com/the-potted-pig-cardiff/
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- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at The Butchers Arms at The Butchers Arms
From the moment I stepped in to this cosy pub I was made to feel completely at home. I was hideously late for my table but I was accommodated in a wonderfully happy manner which was lovely to see especially as I had made no indication of writing reviews on eateries (as usual for new places). The Butchers Arms from husband and wife team James... More
From the moment I stepped in to this cosy pub I was made to feel completely at home. I was hideously late for my table but I was accommodated in a wonderfully happy manner which was lovely to see especially as I had made no indication of writing reviews on eateries (as usual for new places). The Butchers Arms from husband and wife team James and Elizabeth Winter received the aponymous best pub in the UK award from Michelin, 2016 and interesting to learn at the end of the meal that it is James on his own in the kitchen(!) preparing things for his diners. A great place – details of the meal at the below button.
First up, the home made focaccia bread was very good – fresh out of the oven, just the right squidgy, moist feel to the bread itself with lovely crusts. Unfortunately I couldn’t do the whole works as was still full from the previous night so I settled with two starters. I thought the onion and cheese tart was wonderful – such gentle, thin pastry with gorgeous filling and although I was not looking forward to the beetroot, its toned down and slightly pickled character actually made this absolutely outstanding with the tart. It’s a rare thing to be cooked an ingredient you don’t normally like to really enjoying it; and this is what this chef actually made possible.
First up, the home made focaccia bread was very good – fresh out of the oven, just the right squidgy, moist feel to the bread itself with lovely crusts. Unfortunately I couldn’t do the whole works as was still full from the previous night so I settled with two starters. I thought the onion and cheese tart was wonderful – such gentle, thin pastry with gorgeous filling and although I was not looking forward to the beetroot, its toned down and slightly pickled character actually made this absolutely outstanding with the tart. It’s a rare thing to be cooked an ingredient you don’t normally like to really enjoying it; and this is what this chef actually made possible.
The crispy, corned beef with romesco (pepper and nut) sauce was pleasant and like the tart, showed a simple confidence of cooking to not over complicate things and just serve the few components very well – again, this is what happened. Lastly, the pudding was a commanding dish with an absolutely fabulous and creamy custard laced with drambui to smother the marmalade sponge. I’ve never really loved marmalade and I went for the dessert mainly for the custard but again, the bit I was only luke warm on the idea of turned out to be perfectly nice and was not too sickly in tanginess as marmalade often is.
If I had to choose one word for my impression of The Butchers Arms it is happy. I couldn’t have been more impressed with how utterly engaging and friendly the hospitality from the hosts on front of house were here and it was kind of James to spare a few moments to chat on things. The small team here clearly love what they do and this radiates out to all folk who were present, either at the bar or sat down by the two, cosy log fire dining areas and was clear as a bell to see. The simple and effective food, combined with sheer charm of the hosts, with the fact that the real ales are poured directly from the casks and all of this is enjoyed in a very cosy (albeit quite snug) 16th Century pub, exactly as they were originally designed for makes me understand very easily now why this one was given best pub in the UK by Michelin.
I believe this is actually a little gem of a place for the above reasons and those that live locally to this pub are lucky people. I now have the desire to practially frog march various people to here that I know would equally love this place – and I will be doing so when I get the chance!
https://major-foodie.com/the-butchers-arms-eldersfield/
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- Richard Bagnold added a new meal Meal at 5 North Street at 5 North St
Seemingly tucked away from anywhere and buried deep in the greenery of England is this delightful hamlet of Winchcombe which appeared to have a population of about 200(!) and was very nice to stumble across. The heritage of 5 North St is plain to see and husband and wife team Marcus (Gus) and Kate Ashenford motor on here with a cheery smile as they... More
Seemingly tucked away from anywhere and buried deep in the greenery of England is this delightful hamlet of Winchcombe which appeared to have a population of about 200(!) and was very nice to stumble across. The heritage of 5 North St is plain to see and husband and wife team Marcus (Gus) and Kate Ashenford motor on here with a cheery smile as they have been doing for the last 13 years of owing 5 North St. Superb food and personalised service in a wonderful, cosy setting.
The hospitality was warm from the moment I entered and throughout the meal there was a lovely balance from front of house of enjoying thoughts on the food and exchanges with the diner without being overbearing (and no, as usual, I had not revealed I write about food before hand so this was wonderfully genuine to receive). Whilst waiting to decide on the menu, I was brought what I can only describe as Christmas presents as a kid in the form of Welsh rarebit canapes with thinly cut, home made baked bread with olive oil, thin layer of rhubarb chutney and a mix of several cheeses grilled on the top. This was a socker punch of a start and immediately told me that this chef is not interested in fan fare, but just interested in producing things that make the diner happy – and man, I was happy!
The hospitality was warm from the moment I entered and throughout the meal there was a lovely balance from front of house of enjoying thoughts on the food and exchanges with the diner without being overbearing (and no, as usual, I had not revealed I write about food before hand so this was wonderfully genuine to receive). Whilst waiting to decide on the menu, I was brought what I can only describe as Christmas presents as a kid in the form of Welsh rarebit canapes with thinly cut, home made baked bread with olive oil, thin layer of rhubarb chutney and a mix of several cheeses grilled on the top. This was a socker punch of a start and immediately told me that this chef is not interested in fan fare, but just interested in producing things that make the diner happy – and man, I was happy!
Then came the home made white and brown breads that were direct from the oven with unbelievable light crusts and served with beef dripping butter. The owner offered to wrap up any left over bread to take home which was a lovely touch. Hot Jerusalem artichoke soup with chive oil was next and frankly a winner in creamyness, touch of interesting tangy oil in the mix and was followed by the duck, veal sweetbread and quail terrine. If you’re going to have a terrine, I think this is the answer above all others. Such wonderful mix of sweet, sharp and smooth coming from the meats, brilliant guiness jelly and barbeque dressing – it was fun (including the 5 spice brioche pieces) and absolutely superb.
Poussin next and the chicken skin here was a thing of beauty. I enjoyed the thyme reduction and especially the bacon jam to go with this dish. The only thing I found I didn’t need too much of was the mango but I loved the sludgy, sweetness it brought to this dish that was again making this quite a memroable experience. Finally dessert and although I was worried about the fennel sorbet interfering with my affair with chocloate, I found this to work like a charm together. Best aspects on this for me were the rice-crispy-esque base to the chocolate and the poppy tuiles and I so enjoyed the Turkish delight cubes as well which basically sent me back to Narnia on their own merit and again, I thought were a lovely addition to the chocolate.
By now this was a special meal and again the petit fours were all just what you like including the glorious piece of soft fudge and I enjoyed the mint with the white chocolate as something different as well.
This was frankly one of the food highights of the year so far for me and in its very similar style to Le Champignon Sauvage, the chef here seems unaffected by his accolades and wishes to serve the food he thinks his the mark on flavour – and I can verify this is absolutely the case. A fantastic meal, amazing for me to see in action with just Gus himself as the only one cooking in his small kitchen and his wife serving in an more than hospitable manner. You are in local territory here and every second was a pleasure to be a part of.
This place has not seen the last of me and I am looking forward to showing here to others whenever I can.
https://major-foodie.com/5-north-street-cheltenham/
https://instagram.com/richardbagnold Less